No.14708 [Last50 Posts]
Gunpla/Plamo General #6: Unfinished customs edition
finish that project before you start another anon
Old thread >>12612
What're you guys working on currently?Working on some weird MG Nataku repaired thing atm.
What kits are you guys looking forward to? The ZZII is looking good.
READ THE GUIDE
For those of you just joining us, please read this guide. Please read it before asking questions as there is a chance it has already been answered there.
For those unfamiliar, "Plamo" is a shortened form of "plastic model." If it's made of plastic, someone can probably help you here.
>"If you're new, you're gonna fuck up. Don't worry! If you're experienced, don't make the new people worry!"
READ THE FUCKING GUIDE
https://docs.google.com/document/pub?id=1Tr8UyF2Xg5Ojqw0sxcO7oIG7IIsJPes3lMO5pHZKu5o
GOT PAINT QUESTIONS? READ ORANGE ANON'S GUIDE
http://topmodelplamo.blogspot.com/2016/06/guide-for-beginners-how-do-i-paint.html
And a handy guide to other types of plamo:
http://www.mediafire.com/view/1vf1aw7v91pz5pa/Airfix%20Model%20World%20Specia%20(Scale%20Modelling%20Step-By-Step).pdf
Watch Kawaguchi explain simple and useful Gunpla tips to you!: https://youtu.be/aUeJClQtoiw?list=PLJV1h9xQ7Hx-SoCOivVEHNDOl16VWLB3A
Gundam Lineart: http://seesaawiki.jp/nuriesozai/lite/d/MenuBar1
How they made the Build Fighters stuff + more cool customs: http://gundam-bf.net/hhib/
SD Kits and etc. from the 80's: http://www.geocities.jp/lifezoids/
____________________________
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No.14709
I like how these Plamo threads make up like 10% of this board's total post count when they're all combined.
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No.14713
How 'bout we just make this a cyclical thread?
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No.14714
Thanks for posting the guide man. Once this summer burn out wears off I plan to do some more.
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No.14715
>>14713
But you'd lose tons of posts that way.
At least it's possible to archive the old threads.
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No.14718
>>14713
I dunno, it's nice to update the OP post with new info, such as paint guides, plus I like making OP images with people's nice customs.
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No.14730
I don't really see any need to worry about cycling them, we're low-traffic enough that it's not much of an issue
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No.14787
>Gunpla thread has gone ten days without a post
This is outrageous.
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No.14791
>>12868
You could probably use the same techniques some people use on miniatures.
In case anyone wants to give it a shot here are some instructions from /tg/.
Finished putting my Psycho thunderbolt Zaku together today, will do the panel lining tomorrow and hopefully take some photos. Wish the sand papering/nub marks on the black plastic didn't stand out so much.
I got 3 more kits currently to work through, a Kampfer Amazing, RX-0 Unicorn destroy mode, and an AMS-129 Geara Zulu(I wanted to get 2 but the gundam store only had one left).
Not sure which I should do next.
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No.14792
Oh hey a new thread
>my unfinished Genoace is in the OP pic
Probably should have used my finished product, OP, see >>13954
This is my current project, though: A desert camo Ez8 GM Command that is heavily battle damaged and weathered. It's my first time weathering and doing battle damage and it's going well. I even did the hair spray over a metallic base paint and paint over that trick to get some of the weathering down.
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No.14793
My camera isn't really good enough to see the panel lining, oh well. This magnificent robo is probably going to be the prize of the collection for a while.
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No.14794
>>14708
My goal is to one day make something worthy of being in the OP pic.
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No.14796
>>14792
Your project sounds good but also very hard, especially doing all that stuff for the first time but i hope it will turn out alright and maybe even better than you expect it!
>>14793
>mfw looking at this zaku
You did an excellent job on it but i just can't stand this thing, what have they done to the zaku design, its supposed to be so simple…
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No.14797
>>14796
I wouldn't say my project is hard, just very tedious and involves a lot of steps and time.
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No.14798
Starting on the unicorn gundam because i wanted an easier time dealing with the nub marks.
Only to find the white plastic is actually grey with a white layer and glaze layer painted over. It's a very nice effect but makes the nub marks even more hideous. I'm kind of horrified.
>>14796
He is pretty busy for a zaku isn't he. My biggest complaint about him is those dozens of little gold bits, they need to be glued in, they pop off constantly.
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No.14799
>>14793
>his guns are longer than he is
I never understood why people like kits like this.
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No.14801
>>14799
Not gonna lie, I kinda liked him better before I put the backpack on.
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No.14803
What stores would you recommend to someone from Europe?
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No.14804
>>14803
That entirely depends what country you live in.
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No.14805
>>14796
Backpack not big enough? Someone strap some full armor Unicorn tanks on that bitch.
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No.14806
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No.14807
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No.14808
>>14807
I meant European online stores or stuff with good shipping rates to Europe. I appreciate your suggestion, I now have a place for tools and supplies.
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No.14809
>>14797
That's a good way of seeing it, if you work on it with this mindset it will look great!
>>14805
please no.
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No.14812
>>14799
Welcome to Gundam Dunderbolt, where the backpacks are huge and weapon placement doesn't matter.
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No.14818
>>14801
Just take it off, then.
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No.14823
>looking through Gunpla pictures on Pixiv
>looking through albums of images
>notice one has a kind of strange first image
>click it
>scroll through the album
>the guy taking the pictures borderline molests his Gunpla
>he has tons of image albums like this
Those innocent little robots.
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No.14825
>>14818
After going through the effort of putting it together I'm being stubborn.
>>14823
Got any links for research purposes?
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No.14826
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No.14828
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No.14829
Unicorn complete, moving on to the kampfer.
I feel like I need to go back to my goof and give him a real hand rather than the finger cannons.
>>14826
Fantastic, they should put a pair on the gyan.
>>14828
This is funny to me.
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No.14830
>>14826
>cowtits
>terribly drawn and modelled SD Gundam cowtits
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No.14835
>>14829
>This is funny to me.
I have no idea if it's meant to be humourous.
He's got a lot like that, and he's also drawn indecent things of Gundams as well, so I'd say no, but it's just so ridiculous.
>>14830
People who do this kind of stuff to their Gunpla are weird as shit.
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No.14836
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No.14842
Birthday order arrived, 3 more kits to assemble to go with the one I still have to burn through.
Geara zulu ams-129 (was going to get a pair but GSAM only had one)
Thunderbolt Zaku i MS-05
MS-06S Zaku II RG(a pink one to pair with my green)
and an RG gundam MKII titans
Work is getting in the way of my respect for robots.
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No.14843
>>14842
I was going to ask if anyone who has built an RG Zaku II could tell me how annoying the power cables are, but fuck it I just ordered one. Regrets are for Feddies.
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No.14844
>>14843
They aren't that bad, it's really just the last connection that is a pain.
Also pay close attention to which ones you use, they are very slightly inclined on certain sides and I did not end up following the instructions perfectly since they fit better in slightly different arrangements.
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No.14845
>>14842
>Work is getting in the way of my respect for robots.
At least weekends are a thing.
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No.14847
Any news on new revive kits? I know Hyaku Shiki is coming out October-ish. Anything from ZZ announced?
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No.14860
Finally finished the arms, feels good
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No.14861
>>14860
Good job m8. So how long was that?
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No.14862
>>14861
1 month and a week although i could have done it in two weeks. I tend to get distracted a lot.
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No.14864
>>14844
>>14843
What is bad though that I am finding, is the RG titan.
It has a length of plastic and fabric for it's cable that it wants you to goddamn cut and place into unsecured locations. My initial impression is that this is hell.
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No.14865
>>14864
The cables are for sure the worst part of the RG MK-II. I have to re-tuck the ends of the fabric on the outside of the cables back into place now and then. At the time I remember kicking around the idea of finding some kind of electrical cable of the same diameter to put in it's place. Something I didn't have to cut so short, so it would stay in place better.
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No.14879
>>14860
Damn anon, that AC is sexy!
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No.14880
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No.14922
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No.14923
>>14922
I never liked kits that had guns fucking everywhere.
They look stupid.
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No.14927
I've been working on the RG Zaku IIF. It was a ton of fun until I got to the leg cables.
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No.14930
>>14927
Leg cables aren't that bad, man.
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No.14931
Finished my AC, 3ds put there for size comparison. Because this kit is really tiny for ACs
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No.14933
>>14931
It's nice, how long did it take?
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No.14936
>>14930
I'm a clumsy bitch. The little peg that fits into the spring broke on me and the spring launched little cable segments all over my desk.
Also what's up with the arms? I'm having an issue with the parts on the wrist. They don't snap into place, they're just sort of held there by the hand. Is it me or is it how it's supposed to sit?
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No.14944
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No.14945
>>14944
I was personally guessing about two-three weeks, but alright
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No.14949
Finished applying all the decals on the RG titan yesterday. Honestly the kit had a lot of issues, the fabric tubes you had to measure and cut were a pain to keep in place, the jets would fall out constantly, and some of the decals were hellish on creased surfaces refusing to stay adhered.
End result is pretty nice looking though.
Today I decided to take it easy and finally put together my geara zulu and I'm in love. Quick, simple, enjoyable, also incredibly handsome. German mecha is easily one of my favorites now.
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No.14954
>>14931
Delicious watermelon mecha
I'm making a sazabi for a friend. The thing was in horrible condition when he gave it to me; all the Polycarp's were dried and cracked, nubs everywhere, and 4 years of dust and dog dander coated it, turning it brown. Still gotta do more work and get some of those round build knuckles.
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No.14962
Good to see 8chan's /m/ isn't as dead as its /toy/, as I've gotten the Gunpla itch again after a year of a bit of buyers remorse for starting with the HG Full Armor Gundam Thunderbolt (Original Manga version? It was before the OVA came out and came with a mini-comic) I got as a souvenir from the local Anime Con.
I was actually looking for a D50C Loto, but the Unicorn HG line was apparently new enough at the time that most of the vendors just gave me strange looks.
I think it was one of the 4chan Gunpla/Plamo threads that convinced me to buy the Full Armor Thunderbolt instead, but as a Lego/Straight-Assemblyfag I was unprepared for the massive number of FUCKING STICKERS and the fact that the wrist-mounted weapons weren't interchangeable, making it difficult for me to appease my SYMMETRY autism.
After the Unicorn series Dub popped up on my Youtube feed, it re-ignited my interest in the Loto, and since then I've been perusing the net for various Gunpla and Gunpla reviews, loving the toyetic-ness and amazing engineering of Graze and the IBO HG line in general, as well as things like the Origin's Guntank, Build Fighters' Hi-Mock and Gundam Leopard Da Vinci.
>>14812
>Welcome to Gundam Dunderbolt, where the backpacks are huge and weapon placement doesn't matter.
Hey, the Feddie suits aren't TOO bad, they look like MMU packs real astronauts used for EVA after all.
Hell, it's really only an issue with the Psyco Zaku, and that's because they were LITERALLY strapping as many munitions to the thing that was physically possible as a last ditch effort to stave off the Moore Brotherhood…
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No.14963
>>14962
TB Gundam is great. The Ver. Ka though has a lot of quality issues, mainly the fact there isn't any fucking inner frame. I'll still grab one though.
You plan on getting the GM or a TB Zaku?
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No.14965
>>14963
>You plan on getting the GM or a TB Zaku?
Nah, I'm trying to avoid the Thunderbolt line from now on, mostly due to the One Year War suits (other than the Revive Guncannon and Origin Guntank) not conforming to my need for SYMMETRY!
Especially when it comes to armament placement, the Origin Guntank get's a pass on body details since it's primaries are still symmetric, has those articulated Bogies (Though the tread itself is still an attached piece), and besides being a better articulated kit than the old UCHG Guntank, it's also got the ab swivel the Guntank always desperately needed.
I've got several possibile choices for a new Gunpla though;
-D50C Loto (Twin kit that is able to be made symmetrical, transforming MS that actually makes tactical sense)
-Origin Guntank (already explained)
-Gundam Leopard Da Vinci (GUNS FOR DAYS, great out of box configurability, higher price point on Amazon combined with the previous two choices pushes the total pass their $50 free shipping mark)
-Doubles of the Standard Graze and HGIBA Weapons Kits 1 and 2 (to make a couple of accessory kitbashes) and possibly a Graze Ritter on top of that (as something to give the leftover accessories to, also DAT SWORD)
-Revive Guncannon
-Hi-Mock (If I get even MORE accessories for kitbashing, it be nice to have something to put the extras on)
Thing is, I'm a NEET of limited means, and I've got a nephew with a Birthday coming up…
As my mother has been at a loss for what to get him, I'm kinda tempted to see if he and his brother would choose from a select variety of easy Gunpla (All Grazes besides the Schwalbe ((That wire will be the FIRST fucking thing lost, and it fucks the whole kit over just to accommodate that gimmick)) with a possible HGIBA Weapons Kit 2 for the birthday boy himself, Hi-Mocks ((which would probably be the kit their baby sister would also get in on)) and a Build Fighters Weapon Kit for the birthday boy, or let the Birthday Boy have the last Leopard Da Vinci on Amazon while his Brother and Sister get a pick of one of the above) that they could then play with their most awesome, "Old-man Teenager" Uncle with.
It'd be much easier to soften my mother up to the idea of me buying more toys to liter the house with IF her cherished Grandbabies were also getting in on the fun, plus she might just cover the cost of a kit (or three) for me along with them.
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No.14967
>>14962
TB Gundam is one of the few TB suits that still manage to look good instead of retarded.
>>14965
>D50C Loto
OOOOOOOOh that one is sexy, get that one!
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No.14968
>>14962
I'll one up you Anon.
>>14963
To be fair, we do get his unarmored form underneath. Although the way you have to do his covering is bullshit.
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No.14969
>>14967
>TB Gundam is one of the few TB suits that still manage to look good instead of retarded.
Eh, I don't know, it's still based on the Full Armor Gundam after all…
>>D50C Loto
>OOOOOOOOh that one is sexy, get that one!
Yes, I think it will be even sexier flanking it's granddaddy Origin Guntank as well…
Just can't remember if the shoulder machine gun can peg into either shoulder or not.
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No.14976
>>14968
Yeah I grabbed a TB Gundam today. The way they organized the joint wraps is annoying and I ended up ruining them by cutting up the arm one I thought was for the legs. I wasn't gonna use them anyways because they're so cheap feeling, but the manual just feels wrong.
The inner frame and lack of one makes the gundam feel more like a 1/100 HG
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No.15006
>>14793
BLACK STICKERS ON BLACK PLASTIC!
TINY THRUSTERS! I worked on this kit with my friend. It made me frustrated to get some of this stuff together.
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No.15007
I'm working on painting my old gundam Leopard D 144 NG.
I wanted to ask in terms of primer what do you guys reccomend?
I was considering using some spare stuff I had but it's black automotive paint and not primer for models.
The cheapest seems to be rusto and krylon in the us. But I've had bad experiences with krylon.
I don't own and will probably never be able to afford a airbrush.
What brand of paints do you guys like? I'm using army painter. But People like Dr.Faust on youtube like vallejo. But Vallejo is out of my price range.
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No.15009
>>15007
I currently use army painter paints.
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No.15011
>>15007
Army painter isn't that bad, athough I personally prefer using tamiya stuff.
Finished building the TB Gundam. It's a mixd bag for me. Unarmored mode is really nice, but posing feels like a stiff HG kit. FA mode is a super backheavy block with the armor being loose in some areas, especially the back heel.
The stand for it is also really bad, only one arm to support the weight on some really thin rod. The weapons are mainly held by the grips, while the bulk is held by friction on the armored forearms.
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No.15012
>>15011
What's up with those blue bag looking things between its joints?
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No.15014
>>15012
Nitrile gloves instead of the weird plastic tubes they give you.
I accidentally used the arm ones for the legs and ruined them
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No.15015
>>15014
It honestly looks rather terrible. Mostly because of the colour. If they were white/light grey they'd probably look better.
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No.15016
>>15015
Stock ones are dark grey but they're gone. I don't mind, blue's my favorite color.
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No.15019
So I in my town Sacramento They have a gunpla building day every 2nd sunday of the month. Turns out, the guy who hosts it is the owner of ModelGrade.net. Cool dude, real cool dude.
Anyways I plan on buying the MG Turn A and the HGUC Psycho gundam soon. Im excited.
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No.15020
>>15019
>Sacramento
I'm just imagining MC Ride sitting down painting a Gunpla now.
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No.15021
>>15019
>we'll never get an RG Psycho Gundam
>we'll never get a kit of the Psycho Gundam MKIII from Gundam Battle Assault
Why live
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No.15022
>>15021
Well, if you had enough reference images, were good at 3D modeling and had a 3D-printer you could make your own.
3D-printers are fucking pricey, though. But you can get really good modeling software like Blender for free.
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No.15023
>>15022
>needing a 3d printer to make custom gunpla
All you need is a fuckton of pla plate
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No.15057
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No.15059
>>15057
Hopefully they don't take forever to add the MG GM Cannon to the eligible list, cause that's the only one I'm really after at the moment.
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No.15073
>>14936
I had the same problem with mine and I asked in a previous thread where someone confirmed it's also an issue. Just a botched piece of engineering.
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No.15097
Looking for a new kit to start but I dunno what.
I'd like to try an AC one but I'm not sure of the quality.
I found pic related, but it seems a little overpriced at around $85~ (Even more because I'm ausfag and I dunno the exchange rate of nipnickels to kangaroocoins).
Well, I guess it does come with the unique overboost module and its own stand.
Anyone have a recommendation for an AC kit?
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No.15098
>>15097
How about this kit? Algebra Soluh Barbaroi
but be warned though most AC 3 to AC 4 kits use polycap joints, so the joints starts becoming fiddly after a few years.I'd recommend AC 5 but holy hell so many tiny parts.
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No.15100
>>15098
Further recommendations
Aaliyah AC4
Delta AC3
Noblesse Oblige AC 4
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No.15103
>>15098
>>15100
Thanks a bunch
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No.15104
>>15098
>AC5
>tfw no N-WGIX kit
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No.15113
>>14807
>No Gunpla
Buraz pls.
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No.15125
Finally learned my lesson and started applying decals as I build instead of all at the end.
It's really helping me stay sane.
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No.15129
>>15125
>>15125
>Finally learned my lesson and started applying decals as I build instead of all at the end.
>It's really helping me stay sane.
It's what I do for modern Lego models.
Also finally order the Loto, it will be here sometime in October.
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No.15147
>>15059
I don't think they print them anymore.
I was talking to the dudes in 4am cytube on /v/ and decided to make a grimgerde since it's the next best thing to a speedy mobile suit (No F91 in my town)
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No.15153
>>15147
>anything from IBO
>good
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No.15155
>>15153
What's wrong with IBO Gunpla?
The Graze has a fucking Inner Frame on an HG kit!
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No.15159
Question, what type of glue do you use to affix broken pieces back onto Gunpla? I have two broken pieces, a wheel on an HG Guntanks and a beam sword handle on the backpack of an HG Unicorn destroy mode. Any brands or types you guys recommend in particular?
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No.15166
>>15159
I just use standard crazy glue.
>>15129
>october
These waits are killer. I got the choice to wait months at my local comic shop but at a much lower price. Or bite the bullet and order from gundamstoreandmore with inflated shipping pricing but get my kits in a week.
Also why do they make this zaku look red on the box, when it's clearly pink?
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No.15167
>>15166
>These waits are killer. I got the choice to wait months at my local comic shop but at a much lower price. Or bite the bullet and order from gundamstoreandmore with inflated shipping pricing but get my kits in a week.
Eh, it shouldn't be that bad now that I've looked into it.
It's from "TOY SHOP JAPAN HOBBYONE" and their listed shipping standard shipping time is 18-32 days for the Continental US.
Since I ordered it on the first, it should be here by the end of the month at latest.
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No.15168
>>15155
IBO is shit, the designs are shit
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No.15169
>>15166
>I just use standard crazy glue.
Please quit posting here
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No.15170
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No.15171
>>15168
>IBO is shit, the designs are shit
Graze is love, GRAZE IS LIFE!
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No.15172
>>15171
>x is love, x is life
>>>/reddit/
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No.15173
My last kit, the RG char zaku is done. It will be a while before I can binge on kits again but I'm really happy with the zaku gang I've patched together.
Wish I could take some better pictures of them but I just don't have the camera and lighting for it.
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No.15175
>>15174
>didn't notice what board I'm in
just fuck my shit up real good fam
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No.15176
>>15173
Now all you need is the HG Thunderbolt Zaku II with the big gun the Zekes call… the "Big Gun."
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No.15184
Didn't know there's a new thread. here's my latest work so far. Couldn't paint any major projects due to weather
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No.15185
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No.15188
>>15184
>>15185
I don't like it personally, but it's unique. Did you have to cut any pieces to get it in half like that? I know most pieces snap together down the middle where you have it separated, but I don't recall if the waist or head do.
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No.15195
>>15188
it is as is from the runners. this particular one is from a candy toy called gundam mini kit collection. i just painted it from the runners
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No.15196
>>15184
>>15185
That's it?
It looks unfinished, like you put some pieces away to build them later.
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No.15198
>>15184
Cool concept, I like it.
>>15188
>>15196
Building and painting gets boring if you've been at gunpla for years. You have to get creative sometimes.
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No.15201
>>15196
This is where i get the inspiration, the FG kit here is so hard to comeby so i resorted to just use the candy toy for the same effect
>>15198
Thanks
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No.15244
>>15201
Pretty.
I guess it won't be long before I decide to start customizing my kits, mainly due to how much the discoloration from sanding nubs bothers me.
In other news I had another kit arrive today. My zeon forces are strong and numerous, but they need some resistance or the constant parties would be meaningless.
Qeue this guy, who's box features the most punchable looking anime faggot I've seen in a while. Ordered it mostly due to the power fist.
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No.15249
>>15244
It's okay, anon, even though it's IBO trash it was designed by the guy who did a lot of G Reco's mech design, so it's mostly okay.
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No.15253
Is this kind of painting problematic? Like, does it peel easily? It looks like it could.
Because I find it weird that even the 1/100 hyaku shiki doesn't have this kind of paint job, and instead it's just regular yellow.
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No.15256
>>15253
Painting gold is no problem if you do it right, That kit however is electroplated in shiny gold which will peel off through any kind of abrasion.
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No.15258
>>15244
>I guess it won't be long before I decide to start customizing my kits, mainly due to how much the discoloration from sanding nubs bothers me.
Dude, don't start, you're making me entertain delusions of actually creating my dream Gunpla, and I'm pretty sure I'm not skilled enough to pull off threading a string through a polycap, let alone constructing a functioning reel in the shoulder armor…
>>15256
>That kit however is electroplated in shiny gold which will peel off through any kind of abrasion.
Yep, the electroplating won't work on the plastic itself, so they first have to coat it with a thin electro-conductive material first.
While the plastic is etched to allow this electroless plating to hold, you've still got three layers of material that might not be that well bonded together.
Also, can anyone tell me if the shoulders and upper arms of the old HGUC 1/144 #40 Zaku II kit can be swapped for one another without issue?
I want to get two, then give one double shields and the other double spiked pauldrons.
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No.15262
>>15258
>Also, can anyone tell me if the shoulders and upper arms of the old HGUC 1/144 #40 Zaku II kit can be swapped for one another without issue?
No, unfortunately. The shield uses a ball joint, the spike shoulder uses a peg. You could mod it easily, though.
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No.15263
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No.15264
>>15256
>>15258
I see, thanks. Its a shame because I think it looks really good. I'll look into painting it myself maybe.
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No.15265
>>15262
>No, unfortunately. The shield uses a ball joint, the spike shoulder uses a peg. You could mod it easily, though.
>>15263
I already knew they used different attachment methods, I'm wonder if I can't just part-swap the whole shoulder assembly.
It doesn't look like there'd be any trouble attaching the right forearm to the left shoulder, or putting said shoulder on the right side.
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No.15269
>>15258
One day Id love to build the two dead gundams in the transformers movie.
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No.15270
>>15269
>One day Id love to build the two dead gundams in the transformers movie.
Well here is the part's list:
http://tfwiki.net/wiki/File:Tftm_rosencrantz-and-guildenstern.jpg
You'll need:
RMS-099 Rick Dias
RMS-117 Galbaldy β
RX-178 Gundam MKII
RGM-79R GMII
You're a lucky bastard though, you'll only need to scratch build the thighs on "Guildenstern."
My Super W on the other hand, even using existing parts, is going to require an assload of retooling, and even then I'm going to have to scratch build most of the chest, back, head, shoulder armor, Beam Gauntlets, Beam Gauntlet EFFECT PARTS, GN Drive and GN Drive Bits Absorb gimmick door hinges, attachment points for the GN Drive Bits Binder Arms…
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No.15276
>>15253
Soak chromed kits in bleach to strip them into clear plastic. Gloss black, chrome silver, and then clear color will get you a nice chromed look.
Modded an MG Sazabi butt onto HGSD Sazabi.
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No.15277
>>15276
Oh man, that actually looks really nice.
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No.15291
>>15159
Post pics of the broken parts. Sometimes they're moving pieces and you wanna pin them, or make a new assembly instead.
Don't use crazy glue, it's not good for plastic on plastic all the time. Stick to cement since it'll melt the pieces together back into one piece.
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No.15302
Got the HG RX-78-2 revive the other day and I'm surprised at how good it is. Are all the revives like this? If so I definitely need to get the Gyan/Gouf revives.
>>15291
Naw, they aren't movable parts, they just connected using very tiny pegs that broke at the slightest jostling and got stuck in the hole. The Guntank is an HG so it doesn't move much at all and the HG Unicorn comes with two beam sword handles but no blades, so they're purely for show. I was thinking cement would be the way to go, so I guess I'll go get that.
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No.15306
>>15302
Yeah if you're not gonna paint em, just cement it back on. If you're gonna paint, a pin system would be better.
Don't use that restore tube of cement, that shit leaks and is just awful. Get the mr hobby orange hexagon bottle.
The revives are always going to be better than the originals. they've got some exaggerated proportions going on though.
Qubeley is good until the armor goes on, and it becomes an impossible brick again. Movable fingers though
Mk2 is fucking insane
Guncannon is nice and chubby. You can put the missile pods from the original on too with minimal modding
Gouf is passable. You do get the R35 bits leftover so you can put the animation style elephant trunk on or the modern style zaku snout, plus left hands and extra sword.
gyan revive is pretty good, the waist section is fucking insane. Also posable wrists.
The seed stuff are all better than their predecessors, just skinnier and slightly taller and double jointed.
Hyaku shiki is probably one of the best revives. It was the most unique build out of all of em.
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No.15362
>>15302
I had zero issue with the wheels on my HG Guntank. After building the RX-78-2 Revive and the Guncannon Revive I had to get it. For being as old of a kit as it is. It wasn't as bad as I expected. I'm curious if it will ever get a revive. I'm not sure it needs it.
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No.15365
>>15362
Well there is the Origins Guntank as well, which is a pretty awesome kit in it's own right.
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No.15379
http://www.gundam.info/top.php
Do your part to vote for ZZ Ver ka.
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No.15380
>>15379
Why even bother asking about Freedom when it just got a new MG? ZZ and God are obviously the ones most in need of new models,
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No.15454
>>15380
Fuck I would love to see a ZZ ver Ka. That being said G-Self needs an MG.
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No.15519
SCGMC is coming up in California; any of you gays gonna be showing up?
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No.15520
>>15519
Do you have to enter a kit or can you just go to look? It's pretty close by but I don't have anything to enter.
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No.15522
>>15519
If my chisels show up in time and I can bullshit out a kit. Knowing my luck though I'll be waiting until january.
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No.15530
>>15519
It's California, so I wouldn't touch it with a 10 mile pole.
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No.15555
Been trying to work on my photo setup so I don't have to rely on the sun as hard with mixed results.
Also This little dunderbolt GM has charmed me.
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No.15556
>>15555
I never did photograph my titan. This kit has too many decals and I may remove some of them later. One of the very few fed kits I own.
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No.15557
>>15555 (Checked)
Your Zaku has good trigger discipline.
I can't say so much for the Kampfer.
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No.15558
>>15555
Though looking back at older pictures. The new setup really hasn't helped all that much. But I was just using sunlight before so I guess that is as good as I'm gonna get?
>>15557
Zakus need discipline to survive.
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No.15559
Gouf and Gyan are feeling photogenic today
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No.15568
More fun with photos, with an extra lamp. I've neglected these kits. First time I tried to photograph garma he refused to cooperate.
Still not 100% happy as daylight photos still look more clear.
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No.15581
>>15520
It's like $8 admission with one free entry. There are a couple of vendors, mainly tatsuhobby and MAC with their resin kits are what I'm looking forward to.
>>15522
ganbare
>>15568
>>15559
Dust your ktis and resize your images m8
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No.15598
>>15581
What's wrong with the image sizes?
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No.15607
>>15598
Bigger isn't always better. The images end up looking fuzzy
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No.15627
Summer's over, time to work again.
Every time I look at the OP I feel bad that I haven't finished that GN-X
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No.15628
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No.15642
>>15568
I saw what you posted in that /v/ thread.
People who sexualize Mobile Suits shouldn't be allowed to own Gunpla.
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No.15648
>>15581
Haven't done much dusting, but I did try some down scaling after picking up some LED lights.
I think I'm almost there.
>>15642
Gunpla are not for lewd.
Until the Nobel arrives
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No.15682
Finished assembling my Hi-Mock THUNDERBOLT Custom as well as a No Grade to unleash it on.
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No.15684
>>15682
Punish the gundam thoroughly.
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No.15685
>>15607
You can stop that by using denoise filter on the image.
Or just get a better camera that doesn't export in .jpg.
>>15684
lewd
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No.15686
>>15682
Are those kits painted?
They don't look it. They at the very least need detailing.
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No.15687
>>15686
>Are those kits painted?
>They don't look it. They at the very least need detailing.
They aren't, but the Hi-Mock is the only one I've got anything painting planned for, and it won't really need much.
The No-grade Strike might be used for practice, but it's even less of a priority than detailing the Customize Campaign Weapons.
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No.15696
My RG Sinanju and HG Gyancelot are here, don't have a huge amount of time to actually build them though so I figured I'd just take some more photos of existing models I have.
Finally found a pose for the zulu I like.
I definately want to paint the Gyancelot though, a more silver knightly color.
>>15685
A better camera is on my soon list.
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No.15709
Putting the Asteroth together, his upper foot plates(c20) really limit his foot's overall flexibility. Carving that shit out with my knife really gave him that little extra.
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No.15710
>>15709
Well he's together, and feeling pretty lukewarm overall. He's a bit too red and in dire need of some paint but overall I don't like the kit enough to even entertain the thought. That forward bend in the foot here wouldn't have been possible without cutting plastic and a few extra degrees on the shotty were also eked out of the hand.
Also I don't understand what the deal with the jet cockpit on his back is as he doesn't transform. All in all I don't hate the kit but it wasn't all that special either.
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No.15713
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No.15763
Managed to fit an LED in my GM, the problem now is actually photographing the damn thing while still being able to show off the effect.
>>15713
It feels so small
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No.15764
>>15763
>It feels so small
You're making it too easy, anon.
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No.15766
>>15764
Well, how about something huge then? It's right in this zaku's face already, It's a monster.
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No.15767
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No.15768
>>15766
>how about something huge then? It's right in this zaku's face
I know of something huge that's in a Zaku's face.
But anyway, I like it. The yellow/orange look reminds me of construction vehicles.
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No.15778
Here's my entry for SCGMC. Any you fags gonna show up too?
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No.15780
>>15778
Pretty cool man, and no I won't be there. A bit too far and I'd rather like to bring something along even if I did.
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No.15783
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No.15784
>>15783
would you a zaku
>>15778
I like it.
I'm not a fan of the orange, but overall it's good.
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No.15788
>>15784
Thanks. It's actually yellow, but my lights on my desk are weird and tinted.
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No.15793
>>15763
>It feels so small
Actually, compared to the Graze I just built, Hi-Mock a HUEG.
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No.15795
>>15784
>would you a zaku
Gladly…
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No.15798
>>15244
maybe he looks punchable because his face is already sinking into his head
might as well finish the job for him
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No.15799
Finished building the RG Sinanju today. It was a pretty intense build. It's a very pretty kit but holy hell is it a pain in the ass to pose, bits like to pop off and you pretty much NEED a stand for it.
Also due to being so goddamn shiny it doesn't photograph well.
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No.15800
>>15778
Looks good dude. I recognize a few msg parts on there if I'm not mistaken. I swear this is the last year I'll have to miss out due to lack of a presentable kit.
>>15799
>shiny
That's why you paint it, anon.
On the up side these finally came in the mail. I'd say they are about 85% quality of madworks/BMC chisels at 1/10 the price.
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No.15801
>>15799
Apply semi gloss or matte surfacers to reduce shininess.Don't use surfacers in places with high humidity.
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No.15809
>>15793
Here is a comparison shot between the Hi-Mock and the Graze Inner Frame.
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No.15810
>>15795
Who wouldn't a Zaku?
>>15788
That sounds even worse.
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No.15812
Ended up losing. Oh well.
>>15800
You got pics of how well they scrape? Where'd you get them?
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No.15813
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No.15816
After the lengthy build of the Sinanju I decided to do something nice and easy, this cutie only had a handful of sprues and only took about two and a half hours to build.
Also looks absolutely demure compared to the similarly 1/144 big boy. It was a nice break and I think the kit actually sold me on buying the others at some point.
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No.15817
>>15816
I always thought the Nobel Gunpla looked off, there's just something wrong about it.
>That file already exists!
hw pls
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No.15820
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No.15821
>>15820
Jesus Christ, Graze. Put some fucking clothes on.
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No.15822
>>15821
ARE YOU SARA CONNER?!?!
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No.15823
>>15817
>Nobel Gunpla looked off
The back of the head is missing. It's just the hair piece.
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No.15841
Alright, so I need some advice on this. It's going to be my first time building and painting plane plamos. I'm building the Hasegawa SU-33 Strigon (got it mainly for the decals really) . What paint would accurately fit the paint guide? Also, if I'm using primers, would it cover the panel lines? I'd rather not have to etch them. I've also seen people using 3rd part parts, where can I find them and which should I get to make it as accurate as possible to the SU33?
This is pretty scary for me since the paint jobs I made on Gunplas don't require me to be as accurate and worry this much.
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No.15842
>>15841
>Primer
won't fuck up your details unless you blast it on there from 2 inches away with a spray can.
>Photo etch
Eduard makes parts for every kit ever. https://www.eduard.com/store/eduard/su-33-flanker-d-s-a-1-72.html?cur=2&force_sid=cf156de9b6a144b6ad03027ad009dc15
>Paint
Hasegawa manuals reference gunze sangyo (mr color) paints. just look up the reference number.
Glad to see someone else doing some involved work here. Keep us updated man.
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No.15844
I'm thinking giving a hi-mock a paint job for national day using markers. I hope char red does look the same as maroon because I have color blindness
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No.15845
>>15844
Those markers are fucking shit man. They're not proper paints like other gunpla markers, and are very oily, runny, and more sticky. Drying time is bad too. The colors are too similar to their counterparts, so both greens are too close, reds too. Black is more like a smoke, and the blue-gray is slightly bluer than the smoke one.
Finally got started on Leo.
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No.15846
>>15845
We'll shit, I got to find some maroon and white paint for plastic
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No.15848
Well if 4/m/ does their Graze off, I've got two potential custom schemes ready, the Graze Charger and Graze Ranger.
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No.15849
>>15845
Working on a Leo? Looks good.
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No.15850
>>15842
Thanks so much for the links anon. Will probably take awhile before I get it done.
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No.15851
>>15848
They look like shit to be honest. That's just out of the box; go a little wild man.
>>15849
Yep, thanks! Was debating whether or not to make it Wu Fei's wife's Leo, a cannon, or just a midway between tallgeese, but I settled on just making a normal Leo.
>>15846
Don't forget to sand before you paint. Rattle cans are a good place to start. White is gonna be a fucking pain to paint though.
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No.15852
How do you get rid of that dust that builds up in the joints?
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No.15853
>>15851
>They look like shit to be honest. That's just out of the box; go a little wild man.
Well yeah, I haven't even gotten the panel lining done on the first Graze's armor, let alone built the second one or any more of the Option Set weapons.
This was just a mock-up with what I've got built to show off these brothers' duel-wielded weapon loadouts.
I'm pretty sure the Charger, which was designed with my younger nephew in mind, needs to have a Command Antenna done up in some garish color.
>>15852
>How do you get rid of that dust that builds up in the joints?
Can-o-Air?
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No.15854
>>15852
With a fine bristle toothbrush, yes seriously.
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No.15875
>>15852
I use a dust brush. It's basically a soft brush that gets into cracks like a makeup brush but doesn't run the risk of scratching it
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No.15878
YouTube embed. Click thumbnail to play.
So I have begun building the HG Gyancelot but this kit is the first I plan on dedicating actual work to.
I've bought some recommended supplies for removing seam lines and some tamiya primer/paints so I can hopefully have a very nice looking kit once this is done. I plan on following the tutorials laid about by the youtube posted.
I am going to fully assemble the kit first so I can easily group parts for painting without losing track too hard.
The painting itself will be brushwork rather than airbrush. Any tips out there? I'm anticipating a lot of experimentation with paint mixing since I could only get flat purple tamiya paint and I'd have liked to add a metallic sheen to it so I was considering mixing the purple with some metallic silver.
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No.15881
I finished painting using the markers. The only problem was the white one is giving me a tough time and it gives me this weird Cloudy look
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No.15882
>>15881
Yeah, whites in general seem to be a problem color.
Kick ass color scheme though.
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No.15885
>>15881
>all those MGS figures
And yeah the white looks messy.
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No.15887
Started working on this kit again after months of collecting dust.
Paint is about done, now I just have to get some metal parts and decals. Not sure whether do gold or silver decals though. what do you guys think?
>>15878
I wrote a paint guide which is linked in the OP. you should check that.
You can freely mix flat acrylics with metallics to make pearl-ish colors but I don't recommend hand painting with tamiya.
>>15881
Not bad for doing it with a marker dude. Kudos for doing the work.
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No.15888
>>15887
If it was me, I would use silver.
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No.15889
I'm thinking of getting the PG unicorn and a couple of 1/100 kits, I have $340 and right now at hobbywave the Unicorn is 190, which kits should I spend the other 140-150 on?
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No.15891
I got a MG full armored gundam for 91$ during a sale. I bet I can find better prices for it but the site that I got can easily ship it to my country with no problems.
The Geirail gives me a overwatch bastion vibe. It will be fun to give it a bastion color pattern like the mercy freedom gundam
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No.15892
>>15889
Full armor gundam, freedom gundam, and buster gundam look pretty beautiful, but if you want something with different body type you can get geara doga, jesta, GN-X or many of the beautiful zakus that the good colored ones are p-bandai
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No.15893
You also got GM Sniper that looks pretty cool and will prepare you for the upcoming GM Sniper II
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No.15894
>>15892
I'll keep those suggestions in mind, though I'm also looking at the MG S Gundam and Victory dash
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No.15895
>>15889
>which kits should I spend the other 140-150 on?
The PG Unicorn LED set :^)
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No.15896
>>15881
Oh god it's so thick and streaky.
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No.15897
>>15896
>Oh god it's so thick and streaky.
Eh, considering it's a GREEN model, I think he did alright.
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No.15898
>>15896
>Oh god it's so thick
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No.15899
>>15898
>>Oh god it's so thick
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No.15902
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No.15904
>>15896
It's my first and it's with markers. My next paint job projects will be using sprays and actual paint used for models and such.
In other not so gunpla news I got a artbook for mechs and it had a section for gunpla stuff which is cool. Got a free poster too
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No.15909
>>15904
Awesome poster. At the risk of outing myself as a retard, what is the mecha to the left of the gundam from?
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No.15910
>>15904
>>15909
Oh nvm, it's from Vifam.
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No.15915
Those extra weapons set previews look pretty silly
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No.15916
>>15915
Eh, Sets 5 and 6 are actually pretty solid.
I mean, the Barbatos forearm Guns are the only real kit-specific standouts right now, and even then it's only because their default mounting is especially designed for it.
Well, that and the extra hands, but it's a far cry from Set 3's "Axes, axes, and MORE AXES" or Set 4 "Kimaris Booster plus Sword!"
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No.15922
>>15916
I just want HG Mobile Worker or make a big box of mobile worker sets
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No.15923
>>15922
Like 1/35 scale? That could be cool.
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No.15925
>>15915
Well yeah, all of IBO's weapons are silly and stupid. Melee weapons that can somehow penetrate armor but projectile weapons going much faster can't?
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No.15934
>>15923
1/35 mobile worker is p bandai
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No.15942
Just got the MG Turn A gundam as a secret santa gift. I am loving this kit so far, its fun to build.
>What kits are you looking forward to?
Tbh I like bearguys so im looking forward to papaguy
>>14796
I feel like the problem is the Colors and the huge fucking backpack.I dont like the caution orange colors. the red is nice though, its a little darker than your normal char clone gundams.
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No.15943
>>14922
I've seen that kit in person, its fucking amazing looking, and the articulation is nice.
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No.15947
>>15942
The psyco zaku isn't a char clone, it's a Johnny ridden clone.
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No.15948
>mfw MG Victory Dash is back in stock right as the order I had to remove it from shipped
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No.15949
>>15947
That gun has a handle at the end
Wouldn't whatever it fires break it off?
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No.15950
>>15949
I believe its on a hinge, and its metal, and its an anime.
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No.15952
>>15949
The handle hangs under the barrel, making it seem like it's meant to be used to pull it over the shoulder from storage to firing position.
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No.15994
Brother surprised me with some kits. Should be fun!
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No.15995
>>15994
>SD Gundam
Your brother hates you.
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No.16014
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No.16032
So I have started the process for painting my first kit. I've chosen the Gyancelot for some simple recoloring as the kit was a joy to put together and looks easy enough for a first try. Curing on the primer coat is taking forever though, put it on yesterday morning and they still don't feel fully dried. Using tamiya grey for the record.
Also new camera for christmas so expect some fresh shots of old kits and hopefully I can show off the LED mod I did to that one GM a while back.
On a side note I feel like I am running out of easily acquired Zeon suits, I'd still very much like a Haigog but they are old and hard to come by, any suggestions for nice zeon suits that aren't sold out everywhere?
>>15902
This is funny to me.
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No.16033
>>15899
>>15902
Do not sexualize the mecha
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No.16034
>>16033
>Do not sexualize the mecha
…Where do you think you are?
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No.16035
>>16034
That's a girl, not a proper mecha
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No.16036
>>16035
I know, but it was the first directly Gunpla related sexualized image I came across…
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No.16041
I'm new to gunpla so I don't know all the tricks, but is there anyway to make the Ez-SR's feet/ankle region not awful? The feet seem too small to support all the shit on his back and the plate on the back of the ankle pops off if you so much as look at it.
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No.16043
>>16041
Could you post pictures of what you're talking about?
If the back of the ankle is a ball joint then try using small amounts of polish on it to make the ball larger.
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No.16044
>>16043
Can't take a decent picture right now so I grabbed this off google.
It is on a ball joint and yeah it is a little loose fitting, but I think part of that is because the ball part of the joint rests directly on a surface with no space. It probably doesn't help that the plate touches the ankle and leg so much too. If it helps, from what I can tell the leg is the exact same as the HG Ez-8.
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No.16069
Well my first attempt at brush painting a gunpla could have gone better but I'm not unhappy with it. Thinning the paints was just something I was really bad at doing and it shows, small wonder airbrushing is the primary way to go about painting. New camera is nice but it will take a while before I master that too.
Absolutely love the gyancelot as a kit, was fun to put together solid articulation.
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No.16070
>>16069
Eh, it's still pretty solid.
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No.16071
>>16070
Thanks.
Also try reducing the size of your images, it helps with the blurr a little bit. also the file size.
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No.16072
>>16071
> it helps with the blurr a little bit.
Nah, the blur was just bad focus…
But yeah, these were the raws off the card.
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No.16075
Tried to show off the pose-ability some more.
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No.16076
>>16044
EzSR suffers from GBF feet. They're shortened versions of the actual foot. If you use the original longer feet that are also included in the box, you can make them fit with some light modding.
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No.16078
>>16076
>original longer feet that are also included in the box
Only the ankle part of the original feet were included, the kit is missing the actual feet parts. Is there a way I could get my hands on them without buying an entire kit?
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No.16081
Playing with the new camera hoping to get some better shots of the LED I installed into my GM. I'm not quite there but I'm confident I can get something nicer eventually. If I decide not to work on the wire setup I will probably seal the underside of the skull so it doesn't shine down like it is as much.
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No.16083
recently got time to finish my christmas Crossbone, so far has been my favorite build due to the sheer amount of weapons it can use.
posting by singles because my connection is garbage.
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No.16084
barbatos and crossbone
(1/4)
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No.16085
damnit, messed up the numbering, oh well.
here's the last two.
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No.16086
>>16085
Been meaning to pick this one up but I have to yet to finish my backlogs
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No.16091
>>16085
Looks good. I need to get some Crossbone kits. I want to get the X-1 MG but I heard it's kind of meh. Anyone here built it?
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No.16098
So currently I've a Kampfer Amazing, but I wasn't expecting so much of it to be stickers.
I like the kit and all, but I'm leaving off the stickers so I can paint it, the thing is though that I've never really painted a kit.
What's a good method of masking/a good way to do it?
I've got an airbrush and small brushes, and I can get the proper paint colors.
Currently I'm planning on painting the small orange and white bits by hand, and airbrushing the rest of the kit, and finishing it off with a matte topcoat.
I mean, it's just absurd the amount of stickers this thing has. Look at this shit. I'd have gladly shelled out an extra ten bucks or something for another runner so they'd have proper parts separation.
As far as backlog goes, I've got a Schwalbe Graze, a weapons pack, and I'm going to be getting a 1/100 Lupus and a Kamiki Burning. I've wanted a Burning for a while now because of the supposed stellar articulation, and I just love the Lupus.
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No.16099
This picture turned out real nice. I'm having a hard time finding a pose I like for this fellow.
>>16098
I need good masking advice myself.
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No.16100
>>16099
If you wanna be really fancy you can put a greenscreen behind him then photoshop a fully black background into him.
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No.16106
>>16099
Yeah, I got that kit a while back on sale it was quite the pleasant surprise. I wasn't too hot on the design, but I liked it quite a lot, good kit.
As for a pose, I think crouching and firing or grappling poses work best for the Z'gok, I'll see if I can get a picture of mine up later tonight.
>>16098
I've never painted with an airbrush before, but I've done masking for a bit of hand painting myself and what I do is cut out pieces of masking tape and put it on the model and then paint.
If you want better advice i'm sure there is more information in the guides in the OP.
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No.16110
>>16106
I found a pose.
Took some more photos in general.
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No.16111
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No.16124
>>16111
I own a Nobel Gundam, but I can't for the life of me pose her. She just keeps falling over. How do it properly pose her?
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No.16130
>>16124
Learn to balance? I never had an issue, just find the center of balance.
Also got myself a greenscreen now, but it will be a while before I can make things look not awful. Another fun thing to play with though.
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No.16131
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No.16150
NEW STUFF came in today, pretty quick too. Dunno which one I'll put together first.
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No.16151
>>16150
At first I thought you had four small Gunpla kits stacked atop of four large ones.
I'd say build the Gouf first.
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No.16153
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No.16155
>>16153
LEAVE AND NEVER RETURN
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No.16157
>>16155
Dude, I'm like, one of the three regular posters here…
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No.16158
>>16157
You're also the only cancer on this board, which says a lot about you.
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No.16159
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No.16160
Decided to take some family photos. My collection of kits is growing.
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No.16161
>>16159
>Derpy as fuck.
Yes, but that's what makes it fun!
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No.16166
>>16160
All them zeke suits. Noice.
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No.16167
>>16160
It looks like the Nobel is trying to hide.
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No.16168
>>16167
There is a small army coming to bully her, what else is she gonna do?
>>16166
Got a few more to build still. I am running low on options though. They are all 1/144, tempted to get a 1/100 zeong.
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No.16184
>>16158
Don't be mean, anon.
>>16168
Who would attack such a little Gundam like the Nobel? That's like picking on an SD.
>>16131
>brazzers.jpg
Looks more like a hostage shot considering there's a gun pointed to her head.
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No.16190
Oh boy oh boy, NEW ARRIVAL
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No.16195
>>16160
Nice, you got Rumble, my favourite transformer ever.
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No.16196
>>16190
The kit itself looks alright, but man that drawing at the front gives a bad impression.
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No.16207
>>16196
The kit itself was a goddamn doosey. The construction feels a bit dated and overall the kit will need a lot of work to be made perfect. There are a lot of nub marks in inconvenient places. Most of the parts are smooth though so there isn't much in the way of panel lining. Most of it fit together well enough but the head is a nightmare and will explode apart if handled too roughly.
Pose ability is pretty low but it is to be expected with such a hefty chunkster of a robo and while he isn't incredibly tall his shoulders and bulk make him seem to tower over other 1/144 gunpla.
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No.16208
>>16207
Any there any super tiny parts? Kotobukiya likes making them in other kits, is the eyes a sticker?
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No.16209
>>16208
There are a few, though for the most part the smallest parts are those little yellow ones you see in the photos.
The kit has no stickers, and surprisingly came with a few paint aps already on in the case of the eyes and those green dots on the shoulder bits.
The head parts are small enough to make it a pain in the ass when it fucking explodes because you moved the arm the wrong way though.
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No.16210
Oh and the alteisen is supposedly 1/144 so here he is with a zaku worker.
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No.16238
Currently have recently built a Kampfer Amazing, Build Burning, and 1/100 Schwalbe Graze.
I actually really like the 1/100 IBO kits quite a bit, they're basically large high grades, which in and of itself might sound like not much given how long Master Grade has been the main option for 1/100, but I think it's actually like the perfect size for Gunpla.
As far as pushing myself beyond just doing a straight build like usual, I tried painting the kampfer, it didn't go well, but now I know how to actually do it properly through that mistake.
Currently I'm attempting to thicken some looser parts on older kits through putty and sanding.
After I fail miserably at that, I'll probably just do something simple and glue the Schwalbe's frame together.
Hopefully I find a job soon, I want a 1/100 Lupus, but I don't want to spend money on luxuries when I'm unemployed.
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No.16241
>>16238
Wait, I'm not the only person who uses those "vaultz" cases to store games in?
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No.16242
>>16241
>games
It's full of knives, dude.
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No.16245
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No.16252
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No.16253
>>16242
>2017
>knifes
Why not just a gun?
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No.16287
>>16238
Which Gouf is that? Original, Revive, or HGBF?
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No.16333
this is my first attempt at an actual custom piece. I call it Meteor Gundam. I used parts from the five 1/100 scale Endless Waltz Gundam gunpla and gave the full thing a custom paint job.
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No.16334
>>16333
I like the paint, but would you be able to take a better picture?
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No.16336
>>16334
yeah, I'll upload a better pic with weapons later today.
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No.16337
>>16333
>didn't fill seam lines on legs
>sloppy paint job
>white pieces aren't even painted
>nub marks
Please learn how to actually prep a kit for painting and then learn how to paint.
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No.16338
>>16337
Not him, but you have to actually do that stuff a few times in order to get good at it.
He just said it was his first custom, nobody starts off naturally good at this stuff.
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No.16345
>>16338
Yeah I know, which is why you practice with plastic spoons and not gunpla first
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No.16346
>>16334
>>16337
here's the new pics though this was like 2 years ago when I built it and I have improved my technique since then. I'll post my custom Hi-mocks later to compare how I've improved in painting.
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No.16348
>>16346
The blue looks cool, props for actually trying to mod and paint. I agree with the other guy that you should go back and fix those seams though.
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No.16349
>>16348
I plan to at some point. as well as do a touch up on the paint. my latest project is a 1/144 HG Dark Matter Gundam that I've been working on, but I haven't figured out how to get the right look for the ice blade for it.
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No.16352
>>16346
>Celestia and friends
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No.16353
>>16346
>it still looks bad
>windows 10
>celestia and friends
>fucking Eka's
Just stop now anon, please.
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No.16355
>>16352
>>16353
mother fuckers that's my fucking sister's computer, she's into that weird shit. I use a busted ass laptop with no space to set up for pics.
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No.16356
>>16352
>>16353
this is my set up. I run 8.1, it came with the laptop from the previous owner, windows 10 can kiss my ass.
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No.16357
>>16356
>Windows 10 can kiss my ass
>Runs 8.1
I mean, baby steps, right?
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No.16358
>>16352
>>16353
previous pic was a little off, so I touched it up a bit.
>>16357
what is this, /tech/? I'd prefer to be running 7 or XP but this is fine for now since it does everything I need it to do.
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No.16359
>>16358
forgot the pic when I hip post. FUCK ME!
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No.16361
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No.16362
>>16361
>not posting alternative
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No.16363
The tab guy is trolling you guys at this point. L2 sage your off topic meta posts
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No.16376
>>16359
those bookmarks
>kissanime
>facebook
>/gamergatehq/
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No.16379
>>16252
>>16253
Cause I have knives?
>>16287
HGBF, I think.
It's Mr.Ral's from the A Baoa Qu sequence.
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No.16421
First attempt at setting up an LED in my 1/144 ZakuII F2, having trouble since the LED's absolutely refuse to light for a single battery and 2 is really straining the available space preventing me from making any sort of case to properly hold the batteries and the LED wires.
I will be painting it black and gold once I am satisfied by the LED and think of a few parts to modify, was going to make and give it a zaku shield to hold in it's left hand.
>>16346
Nice job m8, I'm a sucker for metallics.
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No.16433
>>16421
I know your pain anon, going to work on putting a few leds into this guy after im done chipping
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No.16464
>>16433
Damn that looks good.
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No.16492
>>16433
I'm still not sure if I want to make mine weathered or new. Kind of running out of time too, haven't had a chance to touch it really with work and shit.
Took some fresh photos though.
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No.16499
>>16492
I've tried to do what you did in that first photo many times, but they always just fall over.
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No.16505
I wanna get into Gunpla, but the amount of stuff you have to buy is really turning me off of the idea.
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No.16507
>>16505
> but the amount of stuff you have to buy is really turning me off of the idea.
You only have to buy nippers, a hobby knife, and maybe sanding sticks. That's fucking it. Quit being a fucking faggot who makes shitty posts like these.
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No.16514
>>16505
If the building part doesnt excite you, do yourself a favor and just buy msia figures.
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No.16516
>>16505
It's one of those hobbies that you slowly buy the supplies as you go. When I started out I only had a hobby knife and a really, really shitty sanding stick. Then I got nippers. Sanding sticks are a must. I used to just cut out squares of 800 grit sandpaper but the sticks are much easier.
The RX-78-2 HG Revive is $10.
Nippers are $10-$15.
Pack of assorted sanding sticks is $10.
Hobby knife is $5-$10.
That's really all you need to start. Later you can get some gundam markers to touch up little details and lining markers to make the detail pop.
Also this.
>>16514
But the decent figures start at around the $60 mark.
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No.16520
>>16516
I never said itd be cheap my dude, Ive dumped thousands into paint alone.
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No.16579
I want to try my hand at building some Armored Core kits, specifically https://www.amazon.com/Scale-Rosenthal-CR-Hogire-Noblesse-Oblige/dp/B00272N2NQ/
But I don't really know much/anything about the company who made them, Kotobukiya, nor about the convention towards their quality. Adding to the hesitation, I'm not incredibly experienced. and would still consider myself a beginner.
Any ideas/advice?
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No.16582
>>16579
Koto looks quite expensive, and like I recommended in the /v/ thread you should consider dropping 10 or 20 bux for a cheap gunpla kit or two to sharpen your teeth on if your lack of experience is worrying you.
I only have one koto kit, the 1/144 alteisen and it's a solid kit build wise but not very pose-able but I still quite like it and will probably take more photos.
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No.16585
>>16579
Koto kits are great, they are also absolutely not for beginners. Youll need to glue some of the smaller parts and the armored core kits all require paint to not look like a lump of mono color plastic.
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No.16590
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No.16592
>>16590
I thought you were gonna throw that at first
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No.16593
>>16585
This anon speaks the truth. Ac kits also dont supply decals or sticker to make your kit Purdy.
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No.16598
>>16592
naah, just showing off the iridescence of the paint
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No.16634
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No.16635
>>16634
Really? To me it looks like first gunpla
sideways
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No.16636
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No.16639
>>16634
>IBO shit
>nub marks everywhere
>shit camera work
Please go back to wherever you came from
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No.16649
>>16634
Work on that camera, orient the images correctly.
IBO would not have been my first choice but it's not bad for learning.
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No.16657
These zaku heads are pretty dope, gonna throw an led in there later.
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No.16665
>>16639
I think YOU need to go back from wherever you came from new friend.
>>16634
Yo, welcome to Playmo happy to have more people out there fucking around with plastic. You should take a look at the OP, there are some helpful guides to help you out with poses and other stuff that is going to be invaluable to you while you build more kits.
Hope to see even more from you in the near future. (P.S Fuck haters, Vidar is cool as fuck.)
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No.16692
Time to disassemble this guy for painting, still have a lot of issues with the LED but im out of time.
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No.16714
>>16665
>I think YOU need to go back from wherever you came from new friend.
>posts a picture with a tumblr filename
You don't fit in here.
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No.16716
>>16692
So the paint process was utterly disastrous but I forced myself to finish it. I might have to invest in an air brush because I can't seem to make brushwork work.
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No.16719
>>16716
Since you're handbrushing, I have to ask: Are you using paint retarder?
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No.16720
>>16719
Just a little bit of water.
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No.16722
>>16716
Yeah, it certainly looks really rough.
>>16720
That might by why it didn't go so well.
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No.16724
Hey guys, delving into planes plamo recently and really feel worried with painting planes. I usually paint gunplas instead but planes seems to get me nervous. Any great guides to follow to achieve the same results like in pic related?
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No.16726
Heres what ive been working on recently. Simple candy paint job for a friend.
>>16716
Have you read either of the guides linked in the OP? It really could be worse but that paint looks thicker than bubble gum.
>>16724
Planes are in my opinion much easier to paint than gunpla. Start with your grey primer then spray some clear black over the panel lines to pre shade and finish with light post shading in a step brighter than your base coat. After that its really up to your weathering skills to make it look realistic. Do a search for pastel weathering on military plamo.
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No.16731
>>16726
That's what I generally saw. But I don't understand why shade the panel lines instead of the edges of a piece like how gundams are painted. Also, what do you mean by light post shading? You mean the final base color of the model that I want it to be?
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No.16732
>>16726
Looks great anon. Wish I could come over and lick it.
Also, I just got myself an Airtex Beauti4+, if I wanted to get extra parts for it like the nozzle, needles, paintcups and the like do I have to stick with parts exactly made for the airbrush or can I use 3rd party parts? Would be a pain if I had to ship the parts from japan everytime I need to replace something.
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No.16789
YouTube embed. Click thumbnail to play.
>>16731
>>16726
Ok, so I was watching some videos on painting planes and I've got another question. Why do we shade the panel lines when we could just use a wash to bring out the panel lines anyway?
Guy in vid related doesn't seem to shade the panel lines in any of his videos.
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No.16796
>>16731
>>16789
I do both a pre shade of of the lines and a wash after all the paint layers.The reason for this is that having crisp black lines running across the model isnt close enough to relaity for milplamo standards. The armor plates will generally look much more defined with a pre shade. To clarify about shading, i assume you will use 3 greys for color modulation. Your darkest base grey, an intermediate, and a highlight. I would never shade a dark color over a light one which is what i think youre suggesting.
My most recent "plane" for results.
>>16732
Ive never tried using off brand parts for an airbrush. I can tell you that ive owned every expensive brand and the Veda 180 beats them all summarily. It shades finer than my renegade velocity and i can switch the needle for a bigger one to base coat or prime so it beats my hpcs as well. YMMV
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No.16803
>>16796
Ah I see. That x-wing looks great btw. How much of panel line shading should I go for? I'm rather nervous that I might fuckup the shading. Also my airbrush uses a 0.3 nozzle, is that sharp enough?
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No.16850
>>16803
Thanks, it was my first star wars kit. Dont worry about shading too hard. Its actually really difficult to fuck that up. Spray at 15 psi from about an inch away and youll be good.
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No.16870
>>16850
Damn, I don't have a compressor that change psi like that.
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No.16899
Looks like we hit bump limit. You around kabuto?
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No.16900
>>16899
More than that, I'm pretty sure we also lost a bunch of posts from the last few days.
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No.16901
>>16900
>More than that, I'm pretty sure we also lost a bunch of posts from the last few days.
Nah, seems like that was just the board derping, was getting 404s on the catalog for a while there.
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No.16904
Just finished my first Gunpla! It was an MG MS-18E Kämpfer. I bought it 8 years ago, gave up because I was young and impatient and left it in my parents garage for 8 years. I remembered it, got it from them and then built it all this morning. Had a lot of fun, and the only missing part was the clear plastic eyepiece.
I've got one question though, should I apply decals before or after I do panel marking.
Next on my to do list is a PG Endless Waltz suit I mysteriously acquired. The only problem is, I'm not sure if I have all the parts and I don't have the instructions. Is it worth having a go, or will it be time wasted when I get 6 hours in and discover I'm missing a part. Also, how long do PG usually take?
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No.16916
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No.16922
>>16904
I do panel marking after apply decals
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No.16923
Is the MG RX-78-2 V 2.0 worth $20 more than the MG RX-78-2 One Year War? In AUD they are $75 and $55 respectively.
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No.16926
>>16923
Depends on what you want out of your Gundam.
Do you prefer the classic animu look, along with a good number of accessories and what has become the standard inner frame for a good number of MG releases? Grab the 2.0. Do you like a more muted color scheme and more panel lining opportunities, and are willing to work with an older kit? The OYW kit may be up your alley.
Of course, the first bit is rendered moot if you just grab the OYW Animation Color release.
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No.16928
>>16926
I'm mostly after something fun to build. I have a preference for more "mechanical" and "realistic", so the panel lines are somewhat preferred.
The main reason why I'm interested in an RX-78-2 is to make a good "pop-culture" decoration. My girlfriend is a Japanese teacher and her new classroom is kind of empty. So, to that end the most iconic design is preferred.
How different is the build experience? Which is more fun?
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No.16929
>>16928
From personal experience, I couldn't tell you. I've never even picked up a kit of the Gundam 'til the HGUC REVIVE release and the MG Gundam the Origin last year, and *that* kit is sitting on the back burner 'til I get some new tools. I'm not shitting you, by the way; that's exactly what it's billed as on the box.
Most everything I told you is gleaned from the pics of the kits over at Dalong. The reviews are in zergrunes, but I think the pictures speak for themselves.
http://dalong.net/review/mg/m78/m78_p.htm
http://dalong.net/review/mg/m111/m111_p.htm
The kits were released three years apart, so the builds are going to be a bit more different than, say, between the MG Gundam 2.0 and the MG GM Sniper II, by virtue of having different inner frames and the like.
Also, for your consideration, here's Dalong's review of the Gundam the Origin.
http://dalong.net/review/mg/m190/m190_p.htm
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No.16930
>>16929
Thanks for the ZergWeb links. I think I'll go with the OYW, unless someone else jumps in and says it's no fun to build or that the 2.0 is amazing.
Somewhat related, what are the HGUC like to build? I have only touched MG kits. Are they as fun, given their relative simplicity? Or is the fun in that they require more post-work to make look good?
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No.16931
>>16930
Bit of both, really. If you want a quick-ish building experience, they'll hit that sweet spot, but because of the nature of HG kits, you'll have to paint them to get them show-accurate. There's also more variety in HG kits, too; I don't think there'll even be a P-Bandai MG GX Maoh release in the foreseeable future, much less a MG GX Divider release, and while Super Foomie may never see a MG release, she's already about as tall as your typical MG release anyway.
On that note, how would you even handle a MG Dendrobium release, anyway?
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No.16932
>>16931
Is it possible to get HGUC to look "display grade" with extra effort? If it's a quicker build something like the 1/144 HGUC Gunpla Starter Set (with the RX-78-2 and ZAKU II) looks like it could serve my purpose.
As for the MG Dendrobium, they'd handle it with a huge fucking price tag.
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No.16934
>>16932
Wouldn't a 1/60 Dendrobium have to be a conversion kit for a subcompact car for how big it would be?
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No.16938
>>16916
Looks like I jumped the gun on that. Guess it wasnt bumping because of the restore or something.
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No.16941
Just did a stocktake of the PG W-GUNDAM Zero Custom I found. I've got everything bar a single runner, the springs and the Electronics.
Is it possible to order individual runners as spare parts, or do I just have a couple 100g of useless plastic?
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No.16947
>>16941
>Is it possible to order individual runners as spare parts
ahhahahahahah
no
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No.16948
>>16941
>>16947
There is a small leaflet in the box for exactly this purpose. The catch is that they will only ship to japan.
There are middleman services but they typically jew you real good.
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No.16949
>>16948
I lost the box too The only official "papers" I still have from them are the Instruction Manual that has no instructions (but is in colour)
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No.16950
>>16949
You can always sell the parts to make some money back. Sorry for your loss anon.
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No.16951
>>16950
I'll scour around, but I'd prefer not to do that. If only because I never paid for this kit, I'd feel scummy selling it for parts. It deserves to be finished.
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No.16953
Finally got around to building that Waff I got weeks ago.
Here it is completely naked, no stickers or work done to it. It's a very nice kit to build with some good engineering but that grey plastic just fails to satisfy and it surprisingly has some bad seem lines on the shins and bazooka. I'll probably use it to practice my painting.
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No.16957
Quick question from a newbie to gunpla. Is it a viable obtion to use gundam markers for a custom paint job?
>>15171
Is there a way to add wings onto a Graze Ein? I really like it and wanna give it a more crow/raven look to it.
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No.16958
>>16957
Gundam markers are not for painting. Youll end up with a goopy streaky and patchy mess.
>Is there a way to add wings onto a Graze Ein?
There are many ways. Be ready to break out a saw, styrene, and glue.
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No.16959
>>16958
Ah. But they're good for detailing at least right?
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No.16963
>>16959
Honestly, no. Theyre overpriced for what you get and dont do anything that a brush and paint cant. If you must use them keep in mind that they are intended solely for spot application to places you had to sand nubs off of.
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No.16964
>>16963
That's bull. I have two and they worked great for panel lining and one small detail I need. You wanna talk about overpriced then we can go into sprays. But if you buy the markers online, you're getting your money's worth. Besides, you can use the paint in the bigger markers with a brush if you prefer.
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No.16969
>>16964
Youre welcome to your opinion anon. As a serious painter id never waste money on something with such limited application. I can decant a tamiya rattle can into 70~ ml of usable paint which I can thin even more for air brushing, not so with the markers.
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No.16977
Damn this kit felt OLD when I threw it together. Also white plastic is a pain to photograph.
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No.16978
>>16977
That energy sword looks great. What is the kit? I'm new to Gunpla.
Mind taking a photo of your "Photo booth"?
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No.16979
>>16977
Props on your presentation anon. You may be a snap fag, but you're a cool snap fag.
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No.16981
>>16978
ZGMF-2000 Gouf Ignited Yzak Jule custom and yeah, I really dig the sword.
Here is my bootleg booth for the poor.
>>16979
I may hold off on new kits and try to clean some of my kits up. I just dealt with the seem lines on the gouf today. Not sure what to do with it on the paint front though. Its all practice until I can do the hygogg justice.
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No.16988
>>16953
I JUST got this kit yesterday. First Origin kit for me. I can't wait to give it a good panel washing and see all the detail pop.
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No.17009
Any idea if the Kotobukiya Ghost in the Shell kits are any good?
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No.17027
Wanna R8 my work? First time dry brushing. I call it "Punished Jegan"
Felt that I went a bit over with it. Paint I used also dried too fast for me to even dry brush properly fucking chinese laquer paints
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No.17040
>>17027
>dry brushing lacquer
You are one crazy motherfucker
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No.17052
>>17027
Thin your god damn paints
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No.17062
How do these guys make these? Like the Jesta's headpiece, the launchers at the back, the weapons and the extra armor pieces?
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No.17063
>>17052
I did, the paint I got dries extremely fast regardless. Plus I was trying to drybrush. But judging from >>17040 I'm guessing that's probably the reason why..
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No.17070
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No.17071
finally finished with snapbuilding the ASF.
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No.17080
>>17071
Get some LED lights and 10 dollar lamps to plug them into from the local hardware store. It will make your photography life much easier.
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No.17081
Finished this. Nothing really special about it but glad to have it off the table.
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No.17098
>>17081
That thing is so damn pretty. I am a sucker for chrome.
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No.17104
>>17081
>>17098
Speaking of shiny kits, how do you deal with getting rid of nub marks? You can't sand them down like you do in regular gunpla.
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No.17109
>>17098
Thanks. The guy I painted it for lost his shit. Funny though i was just looking at that bang doll kit on the volks store this morning, might have to pick that up soon.
>>17104
Dont buy electro plated kits, just learn to paint anon.
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No.17110
>>17109
Aaaand i just realized thats an auge. Statement stands though.
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No.17112
>>17109
What about kits like Hyaku Shiki ?
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No.17115
>>17112
Bandai is getting better about these things. MG Hyaku Shiki 2.0 has an intelligently-arranged set of runners, so that all of the places you'll need to cut should be hidden from sight.
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No.17120
>>17112
There is no reason you can't prime and paint over it.
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No.17122
>>17098
>>17081
How do you achieve such good metallic shine? My experience with metallic paints stops and ends with GW paints and I was not impressed.
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No.17133
>>17122
Short answer is lacquer and multi layer preparation. Acrylic metallics have large pigments so they generally look grainy and dont really shine.
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No.17146
>>17120
Issue with that is the shiny metallic paint. The stores nearby only sell shit by modo or tamiya. The metallics that are available are the ones with metallic particles in them.
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No.17151
A model arrived that I had forgotten I ordered. A nice gift from the past I guess. HGO MS-05 Char Zaku I
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No.17153
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No.17154
>>17146
isn't modo good by any chance
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No.17156
>>17154
Holy shit thats pretty good, might have pick those up sometime.
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No.17159
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No.17176
I want to start my first RG, I've done 2 Master grades and about 10 High Grades. But i want to start simple, whats a good and easy Real Grade?
Pics of one of my latest kits. ZZ II
A pretty good kit all together, looks great, one complaint is the feet. They are the fucking worse feet I have ever put together. Im too scared to move it or the feet will fall apart.
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No.17177
>>17176
Bad news is rg's are all fragile and complicated.
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No.17180
Dug this poor soul out of my closet while cleaning up, not even sure what it is. One of my first kits, it was a gift pre-built.
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No.17183
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No.17185
>>17183
That's pretty good.
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No.17187
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No.17191
>>17183
Pretty fantastic anon.
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No.17249
Beat up zaku done. Not completely happy with it but I think it looks ok for single medium.
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No.17250
>>17249
He doesn't look beat up, he looks damaged. As in unintentionally damaged, like you accidentally left it outside for a few days.
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No.17251
>>17250
Then I hit every mark I was going for, thanks anon.
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No.17263
>>17154
Are modo metallics good for airbrushes?
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No.17269
I finished my first gunpla. I thought i did a pretty good job removing nubs, i can't even see them normally but the picture makes them stand out significantly. I'll take it apart and sand it down since the sandpaper and files i ordered finally came in. Also the red bit on the head's V keeps coming off i think I'll need to glue it on.
My second kit, Pic's 2 and 3 also came in today I haven't seen the show yet but i really like the design and it was cheap so i went ahead and got it.
Also does anyone have the most recent Gundam order chart?
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No.17271
>>17263
they are only AB applicable only.
if by you mean by condition of AB, i think it's safe. Lacquer and its thinner is the one of the harshest corroding liquid i've seen and my AB has to see any rust yet
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No.17272
I'm in the process of building a paint booth and I've no idea how to power the fan without making the booth look like crap. I've also no idea where should the live, neutral and ground wite go to. Those of you that built your own booth, how did you go about powering your fan?
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No.17277
>>17269
Christ the portrait of the pilot on the box looks so punchable. How that faggot looks alone completely turns me off from the series he's in. The kit itself is pretty nice though.
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No.17278
>>17277
>How that faggot looks alone completely turns me off from the series he's in.
Well he's only in the side story Manga, and that's the original version of the Gundam he now pilots back 300 years ago, so it's not like it's even his Gundam anyways.
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No.17282
>>17272
Nvm, I managed to get it hooked up using a 2core wire and a 3A fuse. Anyone know how to cut plastic containers without breaking them?
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No.17283
>>17282
Try getting them really warm, that softens them.
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No.17286
>>17283
I don't have a balcony in my apartment to place it under the sun, plus it's been raining. Any other means?
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No.17287
>>17277
I don't much care for his ugly mug either, it was a bit of a turn off from the kit but the robot looked cool enough so that i could ignore it.
>>17286
>I don't have a balcony in my apartment to place it under the sun, plus it's been raining. Any other means?
That's gotta be one of the dumbest things I've ever read. Unless you live in the dessert putting that thing in sunlight would make it mildly warm at best. Use a hair dryer or a heat gun. Or if you don't have that you could try putting the tip of a knife in fire and then you can cut/melt it that way.
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No.17288
>>17287
Oh hey, a heat gun. I forgot I had that.
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No.17294
Haven't taken any photos in a while so I snapped off a few with my dom and a non-gunpla. That dom got me back into plastic after not touching a kit in around a decade.
I haven't given soundwave any love in forever so I'll throw him up too even if he's not a kit.
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No.17296
>>17288
Finally finished my paint booth. It all cost $80 as opposed to Tamiya's single fan that cost $211.
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No.17299
I am aiming to take at least one picture of my current array of kits a day to get back into the swing of things. Here's my gouf.
>>17296
How would you rate the difficulty of building this contraption and how has it worked for you in practice?
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No.17310
Just ordered my second Gunpla ever. MG Char's Zaku II V2.0. I'm pretty excited for it, but the out of the box colour looks too flat and dull.
How difficult is achieving a good coat of paint? I think a gloss would look good on it, but I have no experience with that kind of thing and don't want to wreck the model.
Also, when painting do you do it once the kit is assembled or off the runners?
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No.17311
Anyone have experience with the Metal Gear Rex from kotobukiya? Is it a fun build and worth the price?
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No.17313
I've Been building the RG RX78-2 and holy shit this kit fucking falls apart EVERYWHERE. And that fucking elbow piece barely connects. Fuck this kit.
>>17299
Haven't used it yet because am currently collecting the paints. But difficulty isn't that hard, in fact it's really easy. The current fan I have has a airflow of 175 m^3/s so it has pretty good suction. I'll update more when I start painting with it.
>>17310
>>when painting do you do it once the kit is assembled or off the runners?
Yes, paint it after it's out of the runners. If you're nervous about fucking up a paint job, go get one of those china made airbrush that comes with some china compressor. It's a great starting point and will be way better than painting with hand.
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No.17314
>>17313
How much should I be looking to spend on a first compressor and airbrush kit? Is China quality actually acceptable?
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No.17315
>>17314
120-150
Knockoffs are perfectly acceptable, my cheapo ab has been running for 3 years.
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No.17319
>>17310
>Also, when painting do you do it once the kit is assembled or off the runners?
>>17313
>Yes, paint it after it's out of the runners. If you're nervous about fucking up a paint job, go get one of those china made airbrush that comes with some china compressor.
Well if you're doing entire color coats sure, but what about simple detail hand painting on an otherwise stock kit?
I figured the stability would help for most part.
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No.17320
>>17315
You should at least mention what it's referred to or where you got it. What I've learned from all of my faffing about with various ABs is that if you wanna do cheap chinese crap, the source of the brush is the most important thing. You could say using the cheap knockoff is fine, but you probably got your AB from factory A that does put some effort into build and QC, while anon's going to get his from factory B that puts much less effort into their product, thus he'll end up with crap.
>>17314
It's doable, especially the compressor, you can get a cheap chinese tanked compressor and it'll do you'll most likely be fine. The airbrush is where the problems start though since their are so many factories operating at varying levels of quality that it is a real gamble to get an AB of decent quality. I don't know where you live but my advice:
1. If you live in a poor country (like eastern europoor or SEA monkey), find internet modeling communities and ask them where they get their gear from. They can either point you to a local seller who'll help you get decently made chinese tools, or they'll point you to a chinese manufaturer with a solid QC track record.
2. Keep it simple. The more bells and whistles, the worse your piece might be out of the factory.
3. 2 strike rule. If you can't get a decent chinese airbrush in 2 buys (if your source doesn't do replacements or returns), stop and save up for something from a more legit manufacturer (which I'll cover later), especially if you live in the US or UK. Chinese airbrushes average around 15 usd a pop, and after 30 usd diminishing returns really starts set in on trying to get a good one, so just start saving at that point.
4. Alternative approaches. Depending on what you want to do you may not need an airbrush. If you're only occasionally or rarely hit with the need to do a custom paint job, then perhaps only spray cans are necessary. If you want to keep colors stock then you can just do a "matte coat ➝ dry pastel/ soft lead colored pencil ➝ matte coat" process instead.
Ultimately what you do is up to you. If I had to recommend a chinese factory, look up Pinkiou airbrush, and look at their simplest gravity feed with the black handle. Though I do recommend buying from their alexipress page. Do keep in mind that this recommendation is based on just one airbrush from them, after going trying 2 other factories, so ymmv. For legit brands, Badger and Sparmax are my baseline. Both are affordable with ABs at a 60 to 70 USD starting point and affordable parts depending on where you live (Badger is cheaper in the west, Sparmax is cheaper in the east). They both also provide solid customer service, so if you get a dud they'll help you out.
To round things out, first is the matte coat trick, The tutorial shows soft lead colored pencils but you can use dry pastels instead if you want. Following that are some images from a japanese toy blogger known as UNOYO. He recently got into painting model kits, and his results have been pretty great, but he also uses a cheap chinese knock off brush supplemented with tamiya weathering kits. This is just to show that you can get good results with the cheap shit, you just need to be sure that the source for it is good.
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No.17324
>>17319
If it's just on the surface and away from the gates then it should be ok. Though if you want stability best stick it to some blue tack and work from there. Still stable plus away from other parts that you may potentially fuck up.
>>17314
I think others have mentioned well enough. I used to use the one from UStar. It's pretty good and parts come cheap. Though treat it as a stepping stone more than anything else.
>>17320
You have any guides to make nipples? Since you know… I heard Super Fumina has Nipples.. Also how's Frame Arm Girls? Are they just as copy-paste as the original frame arms?
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No.17325
I'd like to get into plamo, but it seems like such an expensive hobby. Especially where I live.
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No.17326
>>17325
Where do you live anon? If you'd like to get in, try build High Grades. They shouldn't be as expensive as the Master Grades or Real Grades.
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No.17330
>>17320
Are frame arm girls worth it?
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No.17331
Unicorn is kind of growing on me, I think I wouldn't mind getting the regular mode version or the black one.
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No.17393
Anyone here had a productive week?
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No.17399
>>17393
I actually just snapped a bunch of Frame Arms kits, I'd post pictures but my camera is indisposed at the moment. I can say though, that ever since they refreshed the whole line with the renewal frames, they're INFINITELY more fun than they've been before. To put it into perspective, you'd basically need to use glue for 80 to 90% of a kit on the old frame (including the frame) despite being "snapfit", but on the new frame it's 20 to 30% at worst, and only for tightening stuff that's either a bit loose, or for holding heavy weapons (Rayfalx, Kagutsuchi Ogre Fencer).
In other news, it looks like Koto might start putting out generic armor for use with Frame arms and anything else you can think of.
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No.17403
>>17399
This is modding done right. The bandai build fighter shit is fucking terrible.
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No.17406
>>17403
>This is modding done right.
>using pre-made manufacturer designed parts that snap on a pre-made manufactured designed frame
>modding
Please kill yourself, you fucking retard. You're basically saying straight building kits is modding them.
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No.17410
>>17399
I should look at some of the newer kits then. First and only FA was the gourai and it kept falling apart just trying to pose it. Finally I just took the whole thing apart and glued the frame together and a few of the armor pieces on. It was more frustrating than anything.
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No.17413
>>17410
In that case, look at anything with the ":RE" suffix. They're rereleases of the older kits with the Frame Architect Renewal version.
>>17399
>it looks like Koto might start putting out generic armor for use with Frame arms and anything else you can think of.
After seeing the attachments that came with the Beast Master Sword, I kinda expected them to go this route eventually.
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No.17417
>>17406
Not the anon you replied to but, while I ultimately do agree with you, but Koto's approach has facilitated some cool results. That and designing kits around kitbashing out the ass with parts from a generic accessories line doesn't mean scratchbuilding is suddenly out of the question. In fact, the parts set previously mentioned here >>17399 is probably the first time Koto's made some explicitly FA specific parts, namely the shoulder extenders they come with basically only work with FAs.
>>17410
To add to this >>17413 any of the pre Ji Dao/ Lei Dao kits that have the new frame should also have a red label on the box, with the RE moniker.
I've also unfucked my camera, so I'll post up my snapped FAs soon.
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No.17419
Keep in mind that all these models have only been snapped and nothing else since I'm planning on doing stuff with all of them. For instance, I want to get the EX set for Kagutsuchi and mix it with the Ogre Fencer to make something more violent looking. That and knock down the ridiculously long aerial and try and give it a more mitral style AC head. The Stylet, Rapier and two old frame FAs not pictured (another Kagutsuchi and a Hresvelgr) I'm planning on some AC inspired builds with them.
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No.17420
>>17419
Werewolf Specter, I'm not really sure what to do with it. Especially since it's missing 2 parts, but I might make this one my first OOB paint job though. That one was on an old frame, but then I stuck the W2 Specter armor on a new frame and the parts actually fit far better now. The Hresvelgr Rufus, and Rayfalx designs I like so much that I'm actually just going to do them up in their OOB schemes when I get the chance.
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No.17422
The guide says I should be using sandpaper or modelling knives to better remove nubs. I don't have these though.
What's the consensus on using metal files?
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No.17423
>>17422
Metal files, even the finest ones, are generally too aggressive for finishing a surface on a plastic model, though they'd be useful for reshaping. If you want to cheap out a bit, you can do what others do and use some flush cut nippers for steps 1 and 2, or use a really sharp box cutter in place of the hobby knife. As for sandpaper, just get some wet or dry automotive sandpaper at 400 and 1000 grits respectively, and denim jeans, and that should do almost everything you need when it comes to sanding.
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No.17424
>>17423
"Steps 1 and 2" being part removal then working the nub down.
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No.17426
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No.17427
>>17422
I use metal microfiles on model kits and they work pretty well for me. Try not to get to aggressive with them and it works pretty fine
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No.17436
those madmen are actually making a transformable RG unicorn
I picked up the new HGUC Zeta, but I don't know when I'll get around to building it.
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No.17438
Anyone hhas an idea on how to get the camo right on this kit? It's rather translucent and also darker shade of red.
>>17427
Is that hand painted? Looks great
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No.17439
>>17438
Hand painted some parts and air brushed the bigger parts
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No.17457
>MG Hazel Custom is P-Bandai only
Anybody wanna firebomb Bandai's HQ?
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No.17459
>>17457
I just saw this earlier and was instantly pissed off. First powered GM now this. God fucking damn it.
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No.17467
>>17457
Bandai's jewry is exactly why i support chinese knock offs. It doesn't even surprise me anymore.
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No.17468
Alright /m/ I've finally saved up enoigh money to buy a proper compressor. What are the qualities of a good compressor? What should I look for? What are your recommended compressors I should go get?
I'd like to avoid online purchases since shipping usually adds up too much. My local area doesn't really sell any well known brands too like iwata. So I'd like to know what should I look for when searching for a good compressor.
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No.17469
>>17468
>>17459
>>17467
I personally don't mind too much because, if its not already obvious, Bandai's distribution of kits is 100% informed by the Jap market, like it or not. The fact that it's exclusive means that as far as Bandai can tell, Japs don't care about AOZ like they used to when the HG AOZ kits came out. And frankly the amount of non-Japs that care about AOZ is likely to be less than a drop in the bucket. To put it another way way, Gundam would have to be as big as DBZ is in the west in order for Bandai to mind the whims of that crowd. Gundam VS, might change that, but since Bandai usually goes the safe route, they might just think Gundam games are at least a safe bet if it does succeed. In fact I'm surprised that they were SMART enough not to give up on at least Gundam games in the west after EVF on the Vita. And as previously mentioned, there's always alternatives like the unlicensed chink stuff.
>>17468
I'm going to at least need a little bit more info than that. Budget and country of origin? Budget because honestly, you don't need to go to fancy on the compressor, you could go with a cheap chink shit so long as it's an oil-less piston auto shut-off compressor and optimally with a tank, since that'll help reduce stress on the compressor and cut down micro stutters in the paint stream if you feel thats a concern. Also, as was said here >>17320 country of origin is going to determine what is easily available to you and who could help you best. Also, if you want you can use normal pancake style compressors if you like. They're easier to get a hold of locally in every part of the world, just keep in mind they're loud as fuck, so don't bother with those if you live close to others.
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No.17470
>>17469
>I personally don't mind too much because, if its not already obvious, Bandai's distribution of kits is 100% informed by the Jap market,
And the Japanese market has been begging for a MG AOZ kit for over a decade now. It has constantly shown up in the top 10 in polls, both official and unofficial, for the next MG to be made, which makes this an incredibly dick move to charge the P-Bandai tax on a kit release that would have sold gangbusters with a regular release just to make extra money.
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No.17473
>>17469
Malaysia, and I have about 250 usd on hand. So really theres nothing to seperate a good brand like Iwata Smart Jet between ching chong Ta Pien brand compressor?
Also, speaking of the equipment, I've got a Beauti4+ 0.3mm from japan, is it any good? I can't seem to find any spare parts online.
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No.17476
>>17473
It's not so much that there isn't a notable difference, rather that at our level a cheap chink compressor is usually enough. I mean the scenarios for going for a name brand would be either long term future proofing, or if you do commissions or enter into competitions where you've got several projects on the go, then by all means get a name bran. If you want a name brand that might be easier to source in your area, I'd look into Sparmax, especially since that's the company that makes iwata's compressors. Their airbrushes are good too.
>I've got a Beauti4+ 0.3mm from japan, is it any good?
Yup. It's basically a modified Harder&Steenbeck. Though you shouldn't use H&S parts because the nozzle assembly and needles are completely different.
>I can't seem to find any spare parts online.
And that's the problem with using gear that your locals don't use. Airtex parts would be easy to source at Jap airbrush specialty stores, but none of them ship out of Japan. So if you buy a Jap airbursh and need to get parts, you're screwed. My advice is find an online community for modelling in Malaysia and find out what they use and especially the sellers where they source their gear from. That should get you an airbrushing set up that's both affordable and relatively easy to maintain. You don't even have to join them, just find some Malaysian modelling forum and look for a gear or tools thread.
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No.17477
>>17473
>>17476
Here's a good example:
https://forum.lowyat.net/topic/2438253
That's a seller's page, but you'll notice that they're local and they're selling some cheap knock off alternatives too. I would read around that forum, and others as well to get an opinion on what others think of those cheap alternatives and then make a decision on that. If you find out that they're good I would suggest going with the TA-130 since it is the simplest and most commonly knocked off design, thus the hardest to fuck up, and the TC-186 for the compressor. Also, stay the fuck away from the mini palm-top compressors unless you want to stop every 30 minutes between every coat, and then having to wait an hour for the unit to cool down.
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No.17486
>>17476
>>17477
Most airbrushes I see are the china rip off ones though. I already have one but I'd like to get on that's legit and would last a long while. Also some parts for the chinas like different nozzle sizes arent available here.
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No.17487
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No.17488
Oh boy oh boy a package came in for me today.
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No.17489
NEW HAUL HAS COME, MY BACKLOG IS REFILLED.
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No.17490
>>17489
Not sure wha you'll do with those older pre-Unicorn HGs, but I know I'd have fun updating the fuck out of 'em using the builder's joint set Bandai released. Like the Japs are doing with the Twilight Axis gundam.
Also, good luck with that old Fumina face. Might as well've waited for the Winning Fumina that's on the horizon. Or got into that type of hot bust action.
>>17487
Are you the same malaysianon, or a different uk-anon or whatever the fuck? Whatever the case, if you're just planning on getting it from Amazon, then I'd recommend looking for a unit with more reviews, or failing that looking at this instead: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B071P7GKBQ?psc=1 . If that's something you can get your hands on locally, then again, finding a modelling forum that is at least located in your country is gonna help you a lot more. For instance, I can't truly comment on the quality of this chinese compressor because it is highly likely that this seller is sourcing theirs from a factory that is different from the factory my seller sourced from. What I can say is, so long as your seller is supplied by a decent chinese factory, then a chinese compressor will work fine, even in the long term, unless you plan on going competitive or monetizing. This is also why I recommend searching around on amazon at least, for chinese compressors that have a lot of reviews (100+ at least), as that'll not only give you an immediate sense for the compressor OOB, but also long term too.
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No.17491
>>17490
Not really sure what to expect from those ancient kits, I just wanted more goufs and zakus for my collection. I guess they'll be kinda sub-par if I use my knockoff musha gundam as an indication.
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No.17492
>>17491
I was talking more in terms of articulation. Granted, after looking at dalong, the Gouf Custom should be fine, it's just everything before that you may want to give some attention if you're feeling daring. But again, the simplicity of the HG kits makes doing something like getting a Ballden arms set and planning out ways to incorporate that into the old kit to essentially build your own Revive looks like fun to me. The only thing to look out for after that is the somewhat worse seam placement on the older kits. Other than that you can expect the same high quality plastic and quality control that Bandai reliably provides.
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No.17493
>>17492
I still need to paint my gouf ignited after closing up the zeam lines now that I think about it.
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No.17494
>P-Bandai MG Gundam Hazel is gonna be $80 + shipping on most websites
I hate P-Bandai with a passion. What's the under/over of ANY newer P-Bandai kits making it onto the US webshop? Or should I just wait till some Chinese remolds of it are made? Where does one even buy bootlegs?
>>17490
>Or got into that type of hot bust action.
>Fumina
>Hot
Pick one and only one
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No.17495
>>17494
>US webshop
Literally forgot about that abortion until you brought it up. That thing hasn't updated past taking down the gundam pre-orders that sold out, what do you think?
>Chinese remolds/ bootlegs
I was about to suggest the Magic Toys unlicensed release until I found out that it was basically out of production, and basically costs as much to source new and the P-Bandai. Quite sad, because the Magic Toys release looks quite nice, and doesn't look like an up-sized HGUC with a Mk.II frame shoved up it's ass. If you want to wait around for bootlegs theres:
http://www.gundammodelcenter.com/index.php?route=common/home
http://www.gundammodelcenter.com/index.php?route=common/home
http://www.smilegunpla.com/shop/SmileGunpla/TH-home.html
Yes, they're shoddy as hell, but these are shops based in China/SEA that deal in bootlegs and unlicensed kits. Looking pretty isn't really on the agenda. If you want a little more security you could always check Alexipress and ebay for bootlegs a few months (maybe 6?) after the bandai Hazel comes out.
Also c'mon dude, say what you want about Fumina as a character, but her body literally won't quit.
>>17486
The best advice I can give you if you're dead set on getting a name brand airbrush is to look for a name brand that is relatively common and that you can source parts for in Malaysai. I believe in the SEA area, Sparmax airbrushes should be relatively easy to get, and even if common stores don't provide parts you can always contact Sparmax directly (they can communicate in mildly broken yet understandable english), and they can send you parts and give you a quote. And yes, Sparmax are a clones of jap brushes, but they're very high quality. So much so Tamiya has even licensed them out to make their entry budget line. Then of course you have exceptions like Philippines, where Badger airbrushes are the most common name brand, etc.So yeah, find out whats a common name brand in your area and go from their. They don't have to be as common as the China stuff, just easy enough that you can get parts for them.
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No.17500
>>17495
>but her body literally won't quit being ugly
ftfy
also you posted fan art, shit fan art at that. Fumina is an ugly bimbo skank.
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No.17507
>>17324
>If it's just on the surface and away from the gates then it should be ok.
Yeah, it's just been detail work, not full recolors.
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No.17511
Tell me what kits I would need to make a gundam like this. Doesn't need to be skinny needle limbs. Just something close enough to repeat the look. I feel like a Graze would be a good base for it.
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No.17513
>>17511
Yeah, a Graze would get you most of the general look you are going for, maybe a Reginlaze/Julia for some spaced armor on the shoulder and hips…
…Don't know what you'd do for a cannon arm though…
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No.17514
>>17513
Yeah the cannon arm seems to be the most tricky. I thought of settling for a Lupus Rex arm but it's not exactly close at all.
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No.17515
>>17514
Just get a 5 to 6mm diameter styrene tube, cut it to the length that you need, cut that in half and shove either a Koto or Hobbybase ballshape joint in the center. Then find a small plastic tank scaled for wargaming, take it's turret, and jerry rig a Hobbybase roll-swing joint with a balljoint from the Ballden arms set that'll fit the standard chest polycap in a modern Bandai HG. Then shove your arm barrel where the old barrel or the salvaged turret would go. Done.
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No.17520
>>17492
>>17493
Opening up with the ZakuIII and there is a lot of work to be done here, however it's great practice for shoring up those seemlines.
In the meantime I built some new stands for my boys and took some photos.
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No.17521
Psycho zaku really benefits from a stand that is less shit than the one he comes with. Igniteds off white isn't doing it for me either so I might have to throw some paint on it at some point.
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No.17523
>>17521
>third image
At first I thought you had another Gunpla behind it, those back attachments are huge.
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No.17524
>>17515
There must be a simpler solution though.
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No.17525
>>17524
That's as simple as it gets, but after looking at the Graze instructions on dalong, using the Graze's own joints for the tank turret arm is also possible. For the shoulder, make an appropriately sized plank (should be able to touch the top inner wall of the tank turret and come out of it) and dremel out a hole that fits the shoulder peg and carve out a spot on the tank turret that'll allow for a good balance of looks and pose-ability . For the barrel part of the arm, shave down the Graze forearm into a as round a peg as you can manage and fit/ insert it to the bottom half of the tube if possible. The bicep portion is a bit more involved. You definitely need to fill it first, so use a properly sized styrene rod, or even test using a piece of sprue. Make sure your choice of plastice filler protrudes at least 1cm, and then you have 2 choices:
1. Leave the filler+bicep assembly as is and add the top half of the barrel, using the protruding filler as a guide. Use left over pieces, styrene, or putty to add details to "blend" these parts together.
2.Do what you did for the bottom half and shave down the bicep area as appropriate. Fit as stated in option 1.
That'd also get you your turret arm. In fact, I'd recommend using this version of the shoulder+turret set-up over the previously mentioned turret+HB roll swing joint. Seriously, just think about it structurally and you'll realize how simple it is.
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No.17526
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No.17527
>>17525
>>17526
Well I'm no engineer but I can try something I'm sure.
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No.17529
>>17526
>>17525
Nevermind to all that! I found something perfect.
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No.17531
>>17523
Welcome to dunderbolt.
Older photos I took back here.
>>14793
>>17529
Not sure how I feel about this.
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No.17538
Well that Zaku III build took all weekend, a lot of practice shoring up those seem lines that won't truly show till it's painted. Plastic quality was the worst I've seen in an HG so far feeling very brittle, flashing everywhere, and even an air bubble in the shoulder armor. The front skirt plates needed extensive puttying to repair and it's still curing before I can do final sanding.
He's also a big boy standing a good head taller than his older brothers and overcompensating with THREE antennai. Still the tubby bastard is lovable so long as you don't ask him to actually do anything. Tubby gets in his own way 90% of the time, the legs would actually have decent articulation if not for how fucking fat his feet are. The skirt is awful and I removed the pets holding the 3/4 solid chunk inplace so it wasn't as static and frees up a few millimeters of articulation. The arms are alright and don't have much to do, the fancy gun doesn't seem to have anything in mind with design, though I really wish the shoulders had modern polycaps.
I have tons of bad things to say about him but let me be clear that I still like the kit, it's age just shows pretty hard. I'd buy a revive Z3 in an instant.
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No.17553
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No.17554
>>17553
New work in progress, glorious turtle tank
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No.17567
Finished my Banshee Norn today. It was not at all photogenic and in the end I only got one shot I actually liked. Will have to come back to it when I have more patience.
After putting together the Zaku III I can really feet how leaps and bounds forwards the engineering has come since then. Though it's not without problems. The arms are very much lacking due to the absence of double jointed elbows and the hands can do nought but rotate in their sockets. The shield has an incredibly weak grip to the arm and the head isn't all that well suited to looking around. The legs in contrast however hare beautifully engineered, look fantastic, and can manage pretty much any pose I'd like within reason. It will make a nice looking addition to my shelves with the other fed suits, particularly my RG titan. Thanks to it's modern engineering there is nary a seemline on it and the nub marks are an absolute minimum so this kit will be receiving no further love from me in the future outside of the odd picture which it probably deserves more of aside from this debut photo.
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No.17572
>>17567
The figure does not come any decal? Large expanse of flat surface and no decals applied on it really flares up my autism.Sorry.
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No.17573
>>17572
See the gold flecks on the legs? Those are your decals along with the visor and the grey splotches on the shield. There is a bunch of gold on the inside of the backpack I'll take a photo when I get home.
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No.17574
Got some spare parts and an MD SOL Hornet in recently, and didn't have a chance to make use of them until now. Hornet is cute, but unfortunately her normal face is real bland compared to her laughing and pouty faces. Also her stock and recommended reds are a little too orange and overly dominant for my taste, so I'd like to paint her up in a deeper more broken up red at some point. If she'll ever stay still.
Also the spare parts are for a Wing Zero mod job that I've been planing out for the wings. A whole new kit, while excessive, at least gives me a chance to try a 2nd, more risky method of unfucking the wing hinges and gives an opportunity to try modding the feet/ankles for at leat a bit more poseability.
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No.17575
>>17574
She a QT, looks like you got a lot of work to do on them wings.
>>17573
Showcasing the banshee's shiny hiney.
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No.17576
>>17575
>She a QT, looks like you got a lot of work to do on them wings.
That Sol Hornet doesn't have wings, though. I'm hoping you're not calling the Gundam a QT.
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No.17577
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No.17578
>>17577
Anon, that's wrong and it doesn't respect the robot.
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No.17579
>>17578
Well that's just like, your opinion maaaan.
I meant the wings on the gundam, hornet is cute.
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No.17620
Finished my unicorn gundam, nice looking kit in person. Bit of a pain to photograph though. Also realized I don't have any photos of my titan so I snapped one off. Titan has way too many decals.
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No.17623
>>17620
A tip I can give you for making your photos look better is to edit them in post.
I have no idea what you wanted your photos to come out like, so I tried making it look better in a more general way. Clearer, sharper, ect.
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No.17626
>>17623
Generally I run my photos through irfanview, I run sharpen 3x usually as well as lowering the gamma a bit and playing with the contrast.
You did a good job at bringing out the model more, the noise in the background usually bothers me too much to go that far.
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No.17627
>>17626
If you dislike the noise then try playing with your camera's exposure settings.
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No.17632
Just a straight up build with barely any painting with some panel lining, the torso was a total to assemble but excellent color separation between parts.
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No.17633
>>17632
That plastic looks a little cheap, it could have done well with paint.
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No.17638
>>17633
Painting would have made it better, but I'm not inclined to paint this month. Probably would clear coat it and decal for good measure.
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No.17639
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No.17640
>>17639
Innocentia/Architect/Baselard mix build with MSG blade tonfas (for now, I'll probably make more armour/equipment eventually; Considering scratchbuilding something with putty for practice).
Innocentia limbs and upper torso, Architect lower torso and face, Baselard hair (changed the hairstyle quite a bit with putty).
This is the first time I'd used putty to any significant extent (previously it was just to fill holes on flat surfaces) and I'm pretty satisfied with the result (I did screw it up at first and this is after I redid it).
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No.17642
>>17640
Nice job on the hair,what kind of putty did you use?
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No.17645
>>17642
Tamiya's smooth surface type epoxy.
(Also, FAG Baselard for reference of how it originally looked)
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No.17647
>>17645
You did a pretty good job, anon.
Had you not pointed out that you covered it in putty I may not have been able to notice, but couldn't you have painted it instead?
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No.17648
>>17647
?
It's painted, the putty was for the huge holes in the hair parts where the head armour goes.
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No.17649
>>17648
Oh, jeez I thought you meant you covered the entire head with putty.
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No.17694
Alright done with this kit for now. The HG(just HG, no uc or anything like that) flight type gouf was awful. It suffers from all the problems the zaku III had but managed to make them worse from seem lines to just general engineering and mold quality(lots of flash). If I had just snapped it together it would have been done in an hour and a half tops as it is incredibly simple with a very low parts count but I had to at least put a little effort into this one. The seem lines you can still see I sanded the everliving hell out of and while I can't even feel them on my nail they can still be seen, it won't be cured without either paint or putty. The hand MEANT for holding the sword does an awful job of it and the armor plat that covers it isn't actually large enough to fill the massive gap it leaves. Luckily the kit DOES come with a bunch of PC extra hands and with some cutting I got the sword in and plate on while looking and holding better than the piece of shit they expected you to use. There is no torso twice and the head doesn't really stay on, I'll be working on it again in the future at some point, especially the eye piece. It wouldn't be that hard to make it a rotating piece that can look around like any zaku so long as you sand it round but they had to go for the oblong shape and actually give you stickers for looking left/right for some reason. The legs manage to be worse than the Zaku III's and are beyond salvation, the flight type will never do more than wave it's arms around and even if you put it on a stand it will never look like it's flying.
It caused me a lot of headache and it still needs more work but I'm done with it for now. Probably the worst kit I've built to date. That said I still don't hate it as I like how it looks and I can't stay mad at such a chunky lil fella.
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No.17723
Needed a break after that ordeal so I snapped this Dra-C together. The shoulders and leg jets were the only things that really needed cement and sadly it wasn't really enough, he'll need painting.
Love the drac as a kit and as an MS too. I opted for the small arm laser over the gatling for now though I may steal a hand off something else so it can laser AND gatling.
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No.17729
NEW ARRIVAL, I ORDERED TWO THOUGH, WHERE THE HELL IS THE OTHER ONE?
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No.17730
THE ORDINANCE HAS ARRIVED
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No.17731
I probably could have waited to batch post this all but it's quite exciting!
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No.17735
>>17729
That's a big fucking Zaku
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No.17736
>>17735
He's just wearing a jacket to look big.
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No.17738
>>17736
Those erect nipples don't suit it well.
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No.17742
My 1st hg Gundam build, didn't turn out too bad
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No.17743
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No.17744
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No.17745
>>17743
Huh? Whatchu talking about man.
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No.17753
>>17745
I think he means thin your paints.
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No.17760
>>17753
Considering I used an airbrush, I don't know how my paint is going to get any thinner. But my weathering needs a lot of work though.
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No.17764
Finished this up just in time for saboten con. Any of you fine gentlemen attending?
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No.17765
>>17764
That is looking fantastic. Also that is way too far out for me.
I'll just have to sit here and fiddle with my super zaku. It's snapped together and will likely stay that way. Got everything I wanted out of this kit and the only real change I'll be making is cutting the head of the glaive off and turning it around 180 degrees because they put the hand guard on the wrong fucking side.
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No.17768
So I've completed the sinanju that came with the neo zeong. This probably won't come as a surprise to anyone here but the HG sinanju is better than the RG sinanju in almost every way with the exception of having stickers instead of chromed rim parts.
It was more fun to build, the kit is much more solid and posable unlike the RG which is a wibbly wobbly jelly kit. The legs look nicer and don't have the rather conspicuous massive leg gap and the shield is much more secure. I will note that the neo zeong sinanju does not come with beam effect parts for the beam sabers and beam hawks whos handles do still come on the sprue so you only get the two zeong bazookas and the long rifle for armaments.
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No.17774
Has anyone gotten an RG Unicorn kit? I saw a review of it, and when I saw it's in stark contrast to the RG Sinanju, I want it badly.
I'm going to get one eventually, just want to know if there's shit to look out for on it. Though I might wait a year for the inevitable green variant.
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No.17775
>>17774
I haven't but seeing as how I'm satisfied with my HG vanilla and angry mode unicorns I think I'll hold off myself for the banshee norn variant.
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No.17776
>>17775
Yeah but the RG is transformable.
And I'm more interested in the Unicorn kit, because I like the Unicorn better than the Banshee.
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No.17780
>>17775
> I think I'll hold off myself for the banshee norn variant.
Haha, P Bandai
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No.17784
>>17760
I like it. My only gripe is the lining on the chest and cables look messy.
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No.17785
I'm honestly tempted to drop a hundred and some change on the Mega Unicorn. Even though I have no room for it and I'm worried about it tipping over.
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No.17791
Well construction on the big boy is under way. The random brown plates really stick out.
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No.17793
Well my Hi-Mock got destroyed in the first contest I entered, also TINY HY-GOGGS and an attempt at a DIY sliding Mono-eye.
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No.17796
>>17793
I love the hygogg.
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No.17797
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No.17798
Do you guys keep your boxes or throw them out?
I keep mine in the drawer with the runners with extra parts on them.
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No.17800
>>17798
I try to keep my boxes but once your collection hits several dozen the space consumption catches up to you. I also used to keep runners in them but I just take all extra parts and drop them into a storage container now.
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No.17801
>>17797
Just wait till you see that ass.
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No.17802
>>17801
I cannot wait to see this build finished, anon. Looks great so far.
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No.17803
>>17798
I did, but eventually I ran out of space and had to cut up some boxes. I know some people collapse the top of the box to keep the boxart and toss to bottom. But I just used a hobby knife and kept the top of the box. As for empty runners I just shove those into empty MG/RE-100 boxes until they fill up. No clue if I'll ever use them for a project. But you never know right?
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No.17804
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No.17812
Anyone care for a zeong upskirt? Lower half is built. First issue rears its ugly head in that the thruster leg things have MASSIVE seam lines that I will have to return to cement and paint in order to fix. This is just a snap build for now though so this is what we get.
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No.17813
>>17812
>>17801
Please do not sexualize the Gunpla.
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No.17814
>>17813
You can't stop whats cumming.
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No.17819
>>17802
Goddamn building all these was tedious. Also more nasty ass seem lines.
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No.17820
Decided to take an overall photo of the progress but that will be all for today.
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No.17831
>>17820
This needs to have a dragon dildo attached to it.
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No.17832
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No.17854
>>17820
Where are you even going to put that thing?
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No.17860
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No.17865
>>17854
Leaving it exactly where it is until I put up an extra shelf for it.
In the meantime I decided to try some photos in direct sunlight of some neglected kits.
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No.17866
You know, theres a lot of detail that goes onto the back ends of RG that people rarely seem to appreciate. MKII titan has a lot going on back there.
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No.17889
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No.17892
>>17889
10/10 would hotglue
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No.17902
More arrivals so soon after finishing.
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No.17917
God damn I can't make up my mind on which topcoat to use. What kinds of topcoat should I use if I want to make the kit look as realistic as possible? Like as if that mobile suit was actually produced, painted and presented to a museum, an airshow/mechshow or just a new machine being tuned after being transported from a factory. Would a new war machine like that be flat coated or would it be glossed?
Also, can y'all show me your favorite glossed and matte kits? I'm trying to find as much pics for a good gloss coats but I can't find much.
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No.17918
>>17917
Also, I've been trying to imagine how would they look like if they were real war machines. Like planes generally have a gloss finish to them? Commercial planes have a more glossed look to them while a fighter seems to have more of a glossy but also a bit matte? Tanks on the other hand seems to have a more flat finish to them. I don't know where would mechs fall in line to? I really can't seem to make up my mind. If they were real, what finish would they be coated with?
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No.17919
>>17918
If its a show piece semi gloss/satin. If its been in the field for any amount of time, chipping, dust, and flat.
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No.17936
>>17917
Those are beautiful, though blue does not suit the sinanju.
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No.17938
I'm kitbashing up a flight type gouf for a local contest this weekend. Anyone else working on a project?
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No.17939
I'm (extremely) new to Gundam models, and I want to kitbash something. Is there someplace that sells the bits/parts from model kits individual of the kits themselves? The sites listed in the guide seem to sell only the full kits…
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No.17941
>>17938
Building a banshee for the zakuaurelius contest. Not much too it other than snapping it together for the beginner catagory though.
>>17939
I haven't gotten that far in the hobby myself but this would be good to know for the future.
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No.17942
>>17941
I really hope there is, I want to build a Thunderbolt-inspired Gyan Marine (or Space-Type, IDK if theres difference except Marine sounds cooler IMO) but if there is no bit seller than I'll need a Gyan kit, a Thunderbolt Zaku II kit, and 2 Gelgoogs.
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No.17943
>>17939
Genteikits has a parts service but it's not cheap and takes a very long time to get parts.
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No.17944
>>17943
Is it cheaper than buying four or five kits to make one model?
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No.17945
>>17944
Depends on what you need. Each parts is usually 100 yen and full runners are around 800.
>>17941
I have a unicorn sitting on my table for that too but no desire to work on it.
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No.17946
>>17945
I know this is gonna make me sound really new, but what is 100 yen in earth-money?
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No.17947
>>17942
>>17939
>>17946
After watching some youtube videos of guys reviewing the thunderbolt kits, it has come to my attention that the little arms on the Zaku backpacks don't come with suitable extended versions. I wanted each arm to hold a Gelgoog shield like the GM's do, but I guess that is not possible. Still want to build a Gyan Marine though… Can Gyans use beam rifles in the canon?
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No.17952
>>17946
Gelgoogle it, earthnoid.
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No.17954
Recently got into this Hexa Gear kind of business. I wanna go into more detail on this later but I'm actually pretty impressed by it. Compared to other Koto new IP intro kits, the only issue with Rayblade is the usual quirks that show Koto's R&D isn't up to Bandai's par. In fact I'm fixing one of those quirks right now.
>>17947
Y'know one of the beauties of custom builds is that canon doesn't matter. Seriously it's not like Bandai execs will burst into your home and break your wrists if you shove a rifle into a Gyan's hands.
You might make Gyanko cry though.
Which is OK, cause she's a fat slut.
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No.17956
>>17946
It's around a dollar.
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No.17959
>>17945
Days later it still isn't built, I've laid out my tools and runners only to put them away again later a few times now. Also had a casualty, my HG gyan fell from the shelf and the arm snapped off. Tried repairing it but it looks like that won't be happening without drilling it.
>>17954
>shit talking the best girl
Shame on you anon.
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No.17968
Welp I took the plunge and bought a Gyan Revive (and a Gelgoog for parts). I'll post pics when I get it from the land of the rising anime-tiddies.
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No.17969
>>17959
>Gyanko
>best girl
She's worst girl.
Even the the Gyan she's based on is better a better waifu.
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No.17970
>>17969
>She's worst girl.
>Even the the Gyan she's based on is better a better waifu.
But Anon, SHE IS GYAN!
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No.17973
>>17970
For fucks sake please fucking go back to cuckchan, nobody likes you here.
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No.17974
Is it weird that the most annoying things about the HG Atlas are related to its specialty equipment?
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No.17978
>>17974
Man, the HG looks like a bad toy without the extra detail. Part of me wants an MG, but I don't know if I like the Atlas that much.
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No.17980
Pulled some prizes in a local show today. My club raked in a dozen in total.
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No.17981
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No.17982
>>17974
No the most annoying thing is the shit design and your shitposting.
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No.17987
>>17954
So the large animal shaped Hexagear models are the mechs, and the humanoid things are the pilots? What're the sizes on each of them? $70 is a lot to drop for a "intro" model.
Also, as for Bandai's "par"… I'm working on a 2005 kit, and there's plenty of sanding and gluing and forcing things into shape just to end up with a glaring seam. It's totally dependent on glue, too. It won't hold together without glue, not even for viewing - many of the connections have zero friction, the plugs & holes are just guidelines, and plus the plastic is one color.
I've found that it's actually a lot of fun. I feel like every extra step I have to do is just squeezing more value out of the already low price. The kit forces me to make choices and when it's done, it will be more "mine" than any of the many HGs and RGs I've snapped together over the past few years.
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No.17988
>>17981
>>17980
awesome work, really impressive. It's always nice when a model gets a terrain base, and the dead jim heads are a really nice touch.
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No.17989
>>17978
>Man, the HG looks like a bad toy without the extra detail.
Well to be fair to the model my is a snap build without any stickers.
Some panel lining and a bit of paint on the details (the stickers they want you to use for the jointballs are ass) would really help break up the solid plasticy colors.
>>17980
Great job with the sand on that Gouf in the fourth pic!
>>17981
The Devil Sinanju is my favorite of this bunch.
>>17987
>I've found that it's actually a lot of fun.
Yeah, but it all depends on what you want out of the hobby.
I like my Gunpla as plastic robot toys, so I love that the Build Fighters and IBO HG lines have plenty of post and ports to kit things out.
>>17988
>the dead jim heads are a really nice touch.
Yeah, but with all the accumulated sand, it makes me wonder if that Gouf isn't suppose to be standing outside a Unicorn era Desert Zeon Remnant village as a sort of totem.
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No.17994
>>17987
I'll just toss up a size comparison. Both are standing with a 1/100 MG Exia, a 1/144 Wing 0, and the most common paints that I had lying around, and with Rayblade in it's stock stance, and the modded legs Rayblade, and finally a top down shot. That said, I don't see why you'd have to pay $70 unless you think getting a pilot is absolutely necessary. Like I said, I want to cover Rayblade in more depth, but I definitely think it's worth its 50$ msrp and 35(ish) at the big importers.It's only issues are some weird engineering quirks like the hind legs and neck which I managed to mod. I just have to recast a new blade(s) since I fucked one of them up trying to unbend it. Also the pre-00 S2 build experience you described is what you'll find with most non-Bandai kits with a short list of exceptions being Tamiya, New (post Batshu) Volks IMS kits, and surprisingly some chink manufacturers (including certain unlicensed kit producers), like Audley.
Now, Pawn A1. He's actually really cool, there's actually no PS in the entire kit, and the whole thing is uses ABS, POM, and Soft PVC for construction. The PVC may seem like an issue, but using wargame paints like Vallejo or Citadel makes painting them a non-issue. But that said, this construction actually makes it really durable. It's also incredibly poseable for it's 6.7 cm size, partly thanks to the soft PVC used. The problem is this comes with a cost, 16$ (JapMSRP). Compare that to the Renewal Frame Architect at 13$ (JapMSRP). As good as it is, its far too expensive for what it is. I get why Koto made it the way it is, since one of the issues with initial entries in new Koto lines is fragility, but they way over corrected here in my opinion. They could've still excluded PS and made the thighs, biceps, and head ABS, cut 2$ off the MSRP and have a really strong product on their hands. It would've been 9-10$ at the importers after discounts and I would've bought 5 to 10+ of these fuckers at that price, but now…Objectively I can't really recommend this unless this is something that's absolutely been missing from your life, and you're willing to pay any price to get it, but for me I like it just enough to get 2 of each of the pilot releases. One to keep stock/use for spares and another to trick out. I almost want to compare them to Vita memory cards, but the Hexagear pilots are still good in spite of the price, Vita memory cards are bad regardless. I guess a comparable hypothetical would be like if Vita memory cards were proper class 10s, and started with the 16GB at the 8GB price.
>>17974
>>17989
The equipment issue isn't surprising considering it's more overdesigned than anything out of GSD. In fact it's worse than most GSD stuff since it's trying to fulfill almost every purpose that a backpack can fill and ends up a convoluted mess because of it.
>>17980
>>17981
Nice, though I prefer mecha as sports cars with guns aesthetic. That said is that mini hand painted, and is that Sinanju supposed to be ironic?
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No.17995
>>17994
>The equipment issue isn't surprising considering it's more overdesigned than anything out of GSD. In fact it's worse than most GSD stuff since it's trying to fulfill almost every purpose that a backpack can fill and ends up a convoluted mess because of it.
Actually the Sub Legs are the least horrible; Mostly they're just a pain in the ass to pose because the entire kit is Polystyrene (Meaning REALLY stiff joints) and their limited points of articulation.
They also plug onto the side of the waist and not the back, which combined with most of the Sub Leg joints being near there and the stiff PS on PS action makes twisting them somewhat nerve wracking.
That said, they are a logical if superfluous Earthside evolution of Thunderbolt's use of Sub Arms.
No, what pisses me off is the damned "Blade Shield" and it's clusterfuck of an arm mounting, plus to a lesser extent the handedness of the Railgun.
The Railgun perplexes me because I figured it was ambidextrous like the awesome pair of Assault Rifles that come with this kit, but its grip is off center despite the brace that locks it to the symmetrical forearm pieces also having a symmetrical plug for the grip.
I mean, is there going to be a P-Bandai version with a Railgun in each hand or what?
The Shield can TECHNICALLY be statically mounted in hand three different ways, but they're all a pain in the ass to get right and aren't all that stable anyways, which begs one to question why they engineered such a complicated, handed mounting bracket in the first place.
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No.18004
>>17994
Thanks a lot for the info. And I do consider it necessary to have a pilot. It's nice to have a complete set of whatever you're buying. I wouldn't buy a robot that didn't come with its main weapon, and the pilot looks like a pretty big and important part of this model.
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No.18005
>>17988
>>17989
Thanks guys.
>>17994
The sinanju is a friend's. He is a turn everything into a frame arms girl kind of builder.
And yes the mini is hand painted.
Currently working on this Merkava. I like the colors so much im going to do a matching jesta soon.
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No.18056
What build are you all most proud of?
Mine is something I made from several different unused kits I had lying around. I hollowed out the head and put a green LED in it, then I incorporated all the wires into its design. I wish my phone had a camera so I could take pictures of it, it looks rad.
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No.18059
>>18056
I wish you had a camera too. Barring that, I wish your ability to describe things wasn't so shit, that I may actually be able to visualize whatever the fuck you were talking about.
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No.18063
>>18059
I tried but it made even less sense. English isn't my first language.
Basically it looks like an weird armored core with wires running through its head and arms.
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No.18196
>>17980
>>17981
A lot of these look great, I wish I could make my models look that good.
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No.18233
>>18196
Ganbare, anon kun.
My stuff sucked at first too.
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No.18238
>>18233
What's the kit on the left? I can't make it out because of that glare.
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No.18239
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No.18248
>>18239
That big skull looks pretty dumb.
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No.18250
>>18238
Crossbone ver ka. Really shitty kit.
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No.18251
>>18250
It looks it, I don't know why he put any effort into it.
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No.18504
Is this thread ded?
Nobody's posting their new models
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No.18543
>>18504
Yeah its dead. I think im the last painter here and I mostly just shitpost.
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No.18544
>>18543
Would you be able to mount your phone on something to take the picture? The shakiness is making it hard to tell if you're using a metallic paint for the purples.
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No.18549
>>18543
Well for me, I'm just sick and tired of snapping shit together posting pics and saying "I'M GONNA DO SHIT", and then never following through. So I've been holding back until I've had something interesting and right now I kind of do! Also is that vanilla Base or Zelfikar? I've been thirsty for Zelfikar ever since they released the RE version.
Anyway, last weekend I snapped together 7 kits, and they were quite simple, so it was fun to put them together while almost never looking at the instructions. 4 of the hexa pilots shown are part of this weekend marathon, 2x Pawn Sentinels (the ones with the sad face) and 2x Rose (the girls. I prefer the A1s to the Sentinels aesthetically, but the Sentinels have nicer accessories and the sad face gives them some charm. The Roses are really interesting with their slim design and tight ass, but the mosquito feet are annoying to deal with and the pin style assembly of the elbow/knee joints while fun to see in a model was kind of a bitch to put together and will be a nightmare to take apart.
WINNING FUMINA
The non-Bandai stuff is still better overall 7/10. BUT, I don't think this release should be scoffed at. For instance, the shoulder set up, while a modified version of the Innocentia shoulder, allows Fumina to reach Megami Device levels of inward shoulder range. This allows the front of the chest to stay clean and rep those SICK FUCKING COLLAR BONES. The midriff is fucking great too, Bandai basically confirming that Fumina is a properly FIT girl who doesn't forget to do her ab crunches. The face is also a massive improvement being a downscaled version of the bust face. Speaking of the bust it's pretty good too, though the animation model reps the top as squeezing in between the breasts rather than lifting and snuggly fitting over the breasts? Why ya holding back Bandai? Also that top quality Bandai plastic that everyone loves and wishes all the other model companies had.
It's not all sunshine though. Despite the super nice Bandai plastic, the thinness of the joints are still a bit worrying. At least they have some flex to them though. I talked up the bust a bit but didn't cover the ass end much. That's because even though the ass is actually quite nice they went for realism rather than fanservice. Basically the actually panty(?) section of the ass flattens out where the sections around it squish. Realistically that's accurate, but for a kit whose core is fanservice that shit is weak. It makes Fumina's ass look flat from certain angles which isn't what you want here. They would've been better off making that part round, which would up the fanservice and exaggerate the ass squeeze. Legs are also under detailed compared to the rest of the model aside from the part of the ass that is attached to them, which is nice. The face while a hug improvement, the straight on eye pattern still sucks. The forward looking eyes still look empty and vacant, so unsurprisingly most modelers on Jap!twitter use the side looking eyes since the appear to be focusing on something. The joints for everything but the elbows, bust and neck are fucking disgusting. The shoulders have great range but look awkward in positions that expose the stalk, knees look like their tearing themselves apart, and the hips suffer from butt void. Also while the armor turning into a proper SD kit is cool, it's way too restrictive on the hips and the ball joint set up makes dealing with the torso portion a fiddly ball ache. It's actually amazing because in bigger F:AGs and Shinkis, it's usually the added bulk and complexity that makes them fiddly, but this structure used for something that should be simple and stable ends up making it a mess.
Finally, the HG Crossbones. I actually really like the X3 (but the blue used on this is a bit bright for my taste), and the Full Cloth cause I did want an X1 rep so I got the most impressive one. Something that I'm not a huge fan of is that these 2 use the 2nd Katoki redesign, which I was never a huge fan of because even though they fit the MG line aesthetics better at the time, and these better fit the modern HG line aesthetically, they always felt a little on the thin side. I always preferred the design used for the GFF, which was basically just a cleaned up and modernized version of the Hasegawa original. It was nicely filled out and wasn't near as thin as the new redesign. So I've taken to doing some really simple additions to beef up the proportions a bit. I'm not skilled enough to convert them into the old redesign though.
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No.18550
>>18544
Ill take some better pictures when it's done. The purple is mr metallic color and the teal is alclad clear green, both over polished aluminum.
>>18549
Standard baselard with the extend set.
I have the same problem dude, my workshop has grown to 4 tables and i have 6 unfinished projects just sitting there.
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No.18554
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No.18563
>>18549
What's the figure in the second image?
It.. really doesn't look good. That's from no fault of your own, it just looks kinda shitty by design.
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No.18568
>>18563
What? Vania? Personally I think she's nice. I love Daibadi's aesthetics and Vania is an appealing mix of cute passionate tomboy and super robot. The only issue is quality control, which sucks considering the price, but Daibadi's a small company and they're dealing with a Chinese manufacturer, so anyone whose seen that screencap will probably know what that portends. Maybe they could've gone with a Japanese factory, but that could push the price up 500-1000 yen AT LEAST, and given how niche this product is it's unknown if the crowd buying it would pay that higher price for better quality. I would since prior to Polynian, Daibadi was making resin kits, so having these available as ready made figures is great. But maybe plamo would've been better, they'd probably still have a high price especially compared to stuff like F:AGs or MDs, but as models the modeller would have the final say in quality, so shoddy chink manufacturing would be less of an issue. Plus I already consider sprucing up Vania as one of my projects so it wouldn't make a difference to me at least.
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No.18572
Been out of the loop lately, Finished snapping together this kshatriya the other day. Need to take more photos.
>>18568
>>18549
Was recently surprised by just how LARGE the exia fumina was, it said 1/144 so I was not expecting her to TOWER over my HG kits.
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No.18574
>>18568
> 500-1000 yen
That really isn't much.
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No.18576
>>18572
Actually, that's another flaw I forgot to mention. Fumina is just way too big. It doesn't seem that bad when compared to a F:AG since she seems about 1/2 cm to 1 cm taller than those, but when you start trying to fit her in with other 1/12 scale, it just doesn't work. I get why they did it, it's easier to get HG back packs to fit and it's easier to use more conventional methods to get the hands to hold weapons, i.e.: no soft PVC. But now you basically can't use HGs to add robot armor to Fumina, you'd have to go to 1/100s which isn't cost effective, or use SDs which'd require a lot of modification. That's not abig knock on the SD idea though. because Fumina's proprietary methods of limb attachment means whatever option you pick needs thorough modding anyway. What they should've done was keep a size similar to F:AGs/MDs and just provided a back mounted armature to attach parts from other model ktis to, use simple and common forms of limb attachment to promote kit bashing, and have hands that provide the look of holding something while having weapons attach to a wrist mount proper. As it is now, Winning Fumina may be better than their early attempts, but she's still severely lacking.
Also:
>exia fumina
Well I don't know about that, but maybe a Ptolemaios Sumeragi and Soma Tieren/GN Archer/Arios might be nice. A Tieria Virtue/Nadleeh for the boypussy fanatics might be okay too. I don't know what you'd do for Exia though since she's already the best girl in the show though. Exia wearing an Exia? Actually, given the size of the Build Girls line, just give me a 1/48 scale Nobel Rinko with an in fiction height of 30m.
>>18574
Actually it is. Consider this: back during the early days of the line Daibadi announced that they were going to drop pre-filled panel lines in the hopes that the chink factory that these were getting made at would pick up the quality. The reaction, at least on the western side of things was disappointment, to even dropping the line. The thing is there are only 5 panel lines total on these figs, and if dropping those could increase quality then so be it, right? The reaction to that is what makes me doubt if raising the price 500-1000 yen (Making them around 7000 to 7500 yen) with the guarantee of made "Made in Japan" quality would go over well.
Also an update on my Crossbone spruce-up project. I've been keeping it super simple, but I'm amazed at how adding 0.5 to 1mm of bulk to key-points is fixing Katoki's 2nd redesign for me. It's like if he had kept some bulk in those same areas, then I likely would've seen his 2nd take on them as "different", rather than inferior. Seriously, the only way this project could go any better is if I can find a way to make the faces close to or at least evoke the same feel as the original redesign. As for overall progress, I managed to successfully putty up the left leg (using the right as a mock-up) despite being scared to do so for durability reasons. Looking at some wonderexcellence/keita progress notes persuaded me to go through with it though and the results are far better than expected. My only conniptions thus far is the drying/curing time (had to wait 5 to 6 fucking hours on that shit), and how the epoxy will stick to the leg over time. So I'll get to work putting putty on the right leg, then I'll mirror the X1 mods onto the X3, make gap covers for the X1's chest, possibly expand the poseability of the chest area if I can find my Ballden arms set, and then clean up the rough spots prior to painting.
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No.18581
Whelp I misread the deadline for that zaku aurelius unicorn contest which was the 23rd as the 28th.
Oh well, was a nice build anyways and I got some nice photos out of it.
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No.18585
>>18581
It looks like he's covered in French fries.
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No.18587
Finished building the stasis, would probably use this color scheme again
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No.18589
>>18587
This thing looks hilarious. The awkward waddle it must have when walking would make it look like it needs to lay off the french fries. But it's weedy little arms are so far back it's as though it's trying to puff its chest out.
This thing is ridiculous.
>>18585
I got a penguin comparison from someone
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No.18592
>>18589
Personally, I don't like him a huge amount.
He looks a bit too iffy.
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No.18600
>>18589
That's why I love the stasis so much, it looks like a mechanised secretary bird.Realism be damned.
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No.18608
Getting me one of these bad boys soon
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No.18609
>>18608
Dude that's sick, does it actually transform or is that just another way you can build it?
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No.18610
>>18609
It does transform.
I wish there was an Urban or Lailah kit though.
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No.18611
>>18610
How much are the kits? I can't imagine something that transforms would be cheap.
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No.18612
>>18611
From what I've seen the AUD pricings are between $70 - $90 depending on the seller.
That'd be around $50 - $70 USD I would estimate.
Cheapest I've found yet is $76 AUD.
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No.18615
I was looking at this thing: https://hlj.com/product/KBYFA-077
Can anyone give me an opinion on the Frame Arms kits? Are they worth it?
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No.18616
>>18615
Koto kits are great. The plastic takes paint well and is very easy to clean.
They look like shit unpainted though.
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No.18618
Decided to put the Crossbones on hold for now, partially to take a break from them. So I've switched gears to casting replacement blades for my Rayblade like I said I would. It's not going that well, but hopefully I'll have 3/4 useable/fixable blades in 3-4 days. And also just a bit of screwing around.
>>18616
Now hold your horses, when stuff like that is said a lot of people tend to draw their definition of "great" from what they've usually experienced, which in this case would be Bandai. As much as I like Koto, and while they take up most of my modeling time these days, I'll be the first to say, DO NOT EXPECT ANYTHING LIKE BANDAI. As nice as newer Koto kits tend to be, they require more TLC and attention to detail than do Bandai kits, especially newer Bandai stuff.
>>18615
Carrying on from that, expect to do more work than you would with Bandai, with issues coming in from inconsistent QC. For example, newer Koto kits aim to make the joints tighter than they need to be to account for the wide joint variances that can result from the factory that produces their kits. This is what throws off many people who snap together F:AGs/MDs and then start breaking joints due to the tightness. With Frame Arms, Koto tries to aim more towards "Bandai" levels of tolerances, and while the refreshed line on the Renewal frames tend to fair better in that respect, they can still be looser than you'd like or more desirably, pretty tight. So you'll wanna keep some super glue around for those loose joints, especially the ab crunch which tends to be one of the weaker joints on all the FAs I've built (new or old frame) especially if the kit has a lot of weight, and the shoulder ball for the same reasons as the ab crunch. Personally, ever sine the shift to the new frame, the line went from 3/10 to 8/10 for me and I'm really gunning for a Zelfikar RE, but objectively speaking if we compare it to Bandai (since that is the standard for most who build mecha models even though they're more the exception to the rule) it's more 3/10 to 6/10. If you really want that particular type of design and you can deal with the flaws endemic to Koto kits and FA kits (even if they've been heavily reduced with the introduction of the new frame), it should at least be an interesting diversion from the usual Bandai stuff, and if you put in a little elbow grease you can possibly turn out something really satisfying.
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No.18622
>>18616
I'm a cheap-ass piece of shit that can't be bothered spending so much money painting.
Is it fine to just give the kit a sand, use some gundam markers for details and panel lines and then go over with a finish?
I don't mind if it's not perfect, just as long as it looks nicer than out of the box.
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No.18623
>>18622
If that's your mentality i'd recommend sticking to bandai.
Koishi is top
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No.18625
>>18622
Koto kits are certainly not for you, they require a fair amount of effort.
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No.18626
>>18623
>>18625
I see, it's just too bad for me that Koto kits tend to be nicer than Bandai's.
Maybe one day when I have more time and money I can really get into it.
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No.18628
Ayo /m/. I wanna get into this shit.
I've made like two HG Evas in the past but didn't know shit about proper building technique.
So I've decided to start anew by taking a shot at a few HG kits; tell me what you think of these for a beginner's set. I plan to build them in the order I posted them.
http://www.amiami.com/top/detail/detail?scode=TOY-GDM-2380-S002
http://www.amiami.com/top/detail/detail?scode=TOY-GDM-2601-S002
http://www.amiami.com/top/detail/detail?scode=TOY-GDM-2198-S001
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No.18629
>>18626
You could always look at straight builds of Greifen on places like dalong.net to see how the kit looks in bare plastic, and decide from their. Just note that their are still structural issues you may have to deal with depending on how Koto's QC plays out for you.
>>18628
That's fine, just know that Bandai kits are the exception to the rule when it comes to model kits in general.
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No.18633
Well that wasn't a complete waste of time. They just need to completely set so that the cleaning process can start.
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No.18634
>>18633
Those look pretty good. You using a standard silicone mold?
I tried doing some casting with oyumaru and epoxy and its just not the same.
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No.18635
I was practising painting on pic related and wanted to use a custom stencil to mark a piece.
I don't have an airbrush, just hand brushes.
Which paint would be best for this? Or could I even marker over it?
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No.18639
>>18634
I actually used silicon mold putty for the molds and honestly I wouldn't recommend it for 2-part molds at least. The parts aren't that hot in real life and actually have a lot of surface flaws that I phone cam is too weak to pick up on. For my purposes they're serviceable, but I'd definitely go back and do them over with a liquid silicon mold if I wanted something more presentable.
>>18635
What paint are you even using in the first place anon? If it's something like enamel or vallejo then you shouldn't have any issues. Just make your stencil with masking tape, lay that on the part, and then brush paint over it.
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No.18640
>>18635
What >>18639 said, it depends what paint your using.
Are they oil based? Water based? Powdered paints?
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No.18642
>>18639
>>18640
I've been using oils.
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No.18643
>>18642
That's fine, just be careful around joints because the thinners used for oils and enamels have been known to make plastic more brittle. Not a big deal in standard non-poseable subjects but it can cause some horror stories for the joints of poseable kits.
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No.18645
>>18642
>oil painting model kits
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No.18646
>>18645
It's really not that strange or uncommon.
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No.18658
>>18646
Im going to assume he meant pic related and not enamel because he specifically said oil paint.
Painting an entire model kit with these is not a normal thing to do.
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No.18671
>>18635
Hi Mock is love, Hi-Mock is LIFE!
Also posting progress on my 4/m/ groupbuild Entry.
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No.18672
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No.18675
>>18658
>>18645
Specifically enamels.
I'm using Tamiya.
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No.18689
Work continues on the Crossbones and I've started cloning the reproportioning to the X3 starting with the calves. The styrene additions are next but I also took the time to try and get the X3's face close to Katoki's initial redesign. The face of the new redesign always seemed too cute to me, almost like the G-Self, owing to the fact that the face of the new take was rather wide and emphasized the eyes. The 1st redesign had a slimmer and colder looking face, so to replicate that in as simple a manner as possible I sanded down the cheeks and made space in the helmet to move the face plate up. The end result turned out really nicely, and adding in the parts I already beefed up from the X1 is making me really happy with how this project is shaping up.
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No.18690
Holy shit this thread is moving again!
I've been holding off on kits for a few months. I need to finish up the ones I've snapped up. I finally got some top coat. I tried ordering online and the cans ruptured. And unfortunately I don't really have a hobby shop nearby. Still haven't gotten around to buying a light box to take decent pics with.
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No.18697
I want to upgrade nippers. I'm tired of the cheap ass ones leaving stress marks. I'm too cheap for godhand, and the gundam planet side cutters I was looking at are out of stock at the moment. Left is what I have, right is what I'm thinking of getting. Thoughts? What do you guys use?
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No.18698
>>18697
I just use those cheap 5$ flush cutters off of amazon. The end result has all the flaws you mentioned, but since I try to sand and paint anyway it's not a big deal to me. From what I've read though, at the very least "godhand style" (not necessarily by/from godhand but with a similar blade set up) detail nippers are the best at cutting as cleanly as possible, but among those, godhand still works the best. So I would suggest looking for some godhand clones, I know Mr.Hobby makes one and I think a couple of chink companies make some decent clones too. Just don't use them to cut heavy shit or they'll break.
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No.18699
>>18698
I've got the Mr.Hobby Mr.Nipper GX and that's suited me just fine. Not expensive but not bargain bin either.
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No.18700
Whoops, >>18699 meant for >>18697
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No.18707
>>18675
That makes sense then. Good luck with your masking.
>>18689
Those proportions are much better. The crossbone kits are so plain oob, they really need the extra work.
I recently found out that my airbrush can accept a .15mm needle so ive been practicing glazing by airbrush. I'm pretty happy with the patina effect on this little guy.
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No.18709
>>14931
>>14860
I love AC kits but I'm terrified that I'm gonna break or fuck them up in some way.
So sexy though.
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No.18710
>>15171
I'm getting that Graze ritter and the 1/100 Schwalbe soon. Looking forward to building them.
Carta a cute.
>>15168
How so?
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No.18717
>>18707
I don't think I've ever seen that kit before, what is he?
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No.18720
>>18717
I'm not entirely sure to be honest. It came molded on a single grey runner in a poly bag. The label said ThreeA and made by good smile company.
Very bizarre mix of things considering the quality. It had really bad gaps and the plastic felt like the kind of stuff they made airplane kits out of in the 80's.
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No.18721
>>18720
It's super cute though
Reminds me of the guys from Laputa or the Nier Automata robots a little bit
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No.18722
>>18721
>Nier Automata robots
That's what I thought it was.
Had he not said anything I would have assumed they were Nier kits.
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No.18727
>>18721
>>18722
I can see the resemblance. I thought it was from maschinen krieger when i bought it.
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No.18728
>expecting AmiAmi package
>At home all day
>Check tracking: Notice left
>Fuckers didn't even knock
Thanks USPS.
Still got some modeling done though. Just added the remaining thickening plates to X3, and I decided to take inspiration from the Hasegawa original and put a mock up "eye divider" in the cowl for the face, since the eyes still seemed a bit odd even with the face adjustments I made. From the mock up alone, I'm really happy with how it ties the entire face together and makes it feel complete, so it'll be made permanent.
>>18727
Whatever it is you did a good job on it. Stuff like that isn't usually my taste, but it's nice how it feels like it's aged for 50-100+ years without feeling overdone. That said, from what I've seen, "factory fresh" or "aged over generations" approaches to aesthetics tend to work out better over "in use" or "in battle" type stuff. Personally, I prefer "factory fresh" all things considered.
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No.18731
>>18728
I think the in-battle aesthetic looks great in dioramas, but the more subtle in-use weathering of gentle exhaust marks near thrusters and light paint chipping on edges can really drive a kit home without it looking overdone.
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No.18746
>>18731
Battle damage is extremely hard to do well, most people end up making their gunpla look like it's been dragged in mud.
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No.18747
>>18746
That's why I mentioned it looking better in a diorama where there's context.
But yeah, a lot of guides I've seen around for 'weathering' just look like they've spilled coffee all over it or wiped their ass with it.
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No.18748
>>18747
>wiped their ass with it.
That looks more like it's been up his ass.
Goddamn, that is fugly.
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No.18749
>>18728
Thanks man. It still needs some work, oil runs and some dry fading.
I agree that too many people use "it's battle damaged" as a crutch for poor modeling skills or as an excuse to be lazy and not fix something that went wrong.
>>18747
This is a good example of someone failing to underatand the effect they are trying to create. What even would make an object look like that? Sitting in a swamp?
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No.18751
>>18749
>What even would make an object look like that? Sitting in a swamp?
It looks like it's been dropped in a mud puddle and left there for about six years. Awful.
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No.18768
>>18728
I've heard a lot of shitty stories about American mail delivery, is it really that bad?
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No.18770
Decided to take a break from my Crossbones again after picking up my haul, which includes 2 kits. Had the chance to snap together Zelfikar and it's basically everything that my first Frame Arms, an early Baselard, should've been. It feels nice and solid, can support the weight of the additional armor, and I must have lucked out on the QC for this one because most of the joints are both tight and smooth. The same can't be said for my other FA:REs, even if all of them are significant improvements over the old frames. The only real issues left lie in the torso joints as well as the polycaps around that area. One of the things that are still crap when it comes to Koto are their polycaps. If they were doing standard military models or planes they'd be fine, but they're often used in load bearing and high stress areas which they can't handle. Part of the reason I was so pleased with Zelfikar is that the torso PCs seemed to be holding up but that lasted for only an hour and some light posing before they started flopping. Tightening would be the cheapest method to fix this, but the other thing is Koto's PCs are also really fragile so tightening has to be done VERY CAREFULLY, otherwise the PC can tear. The more effective solution would be the recent HIPS cap that Koto put out, but that's also rather expensive, and work is still required as those joint caps are meant to be a generic fit rather than specific to FAs. The other issue are the collar balls and ab hinge, but those come down to the fact the Koto's plastic and QC aren't as nice as Bandai's. At least those areas can handle some careful tightening. I think I'll move to the hover legs next to have both components to my "violent ogre" idea present before I go back to the Crossbones.
>>18768
Well delivery actually used to be quite nice in my area, but that has rapidly degenerated recently. It's so bad I can't even use regular SAL anymore because the last SAL package I order got lost and there's no insurance on that shit. To be fair, going off HLJ prices, the savings difference between SAL and RSAL isn't all that great these days either. But even going off RSAL, 2 weeks was the usual wait time for me but the last RSAL package I got during this degeneration period took a whole month.
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No.18771
Update on the Amazing GM/GM Cannon as well as a side project of mine.
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No.18804
>>18770
I hope you like that kit more than i did. My baselard got about 3 hours of shelf time before i decided i hated it and sold it to a friend.
>>18771
Paint it.
I haven't had much time to work this week. Just started threading some cables on this hg.
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No.18824
>>18804
I never liked LEDs on Gunpla, it makes them look a little tacky.
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No.18825
>>18824
Feel free to contribute something you do like.
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No.18826
>>18770
Sounds about right for a Koto kit.
I've got an AIDS kit coming in in… I wanna say January or February. Seems like it'll be about the same height as a HG gendum, which should make for some interesting posing opportunities, but again, it's a Koto kit, and it'll definitely need a lot of work. Thinking of giving the Darker cores a proper paintjob, but it's gonna take more effort than I'd like, considering they're made of PVC.
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No.18827
>>18804
If you ever put lights on a Gunpla you should make sure they're not too bright, otherwise they can look like you've decorated them in Christmas lights.
>>18825
>le ebin snarky comeback post
Please don't.
>>18826
>I've got an AIDS kit coming in
That's a really unfortunate acronym. I've always liked those kits, though.
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No.18828
>>18827
It's actually called the ARKS Interception Silhouette Exord; it's just nicknamed "AIDS" because it's an allied A.I.S. that got infected by The Corruption™, hence the organic-looking cores on its legs and back, along with a matching corrupted rifle and laser.
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No.18829
>>18827
You literally replied "I DON'T LIKE THING" to my post.
And yes, obviously I am going to wire resistors and use frosted clear plastic to diffuse the light.
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No.18830
>>18828
I was going to comment on the cancer lumps on its legs but decided not to.
What's the series it's from about?
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No.18834
>>18804
>Paint it.
Which, the Amazing GM/GM Cannon or the Petit'gguy Flower?
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No.18838
>>18826
are AIDS kits related to the FAG line?
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No.18839
>>18838
No, the HOMO line is what game before them.
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No.18840
>>18834
Both my dude.
SIMP is making a resin cover kit for the double jim, im pretty hype for that.
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No.18853
>>18840
That kit looks alright but the arms look awkward.
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No.18861
>>18853
Its probably because they stuck random parts from the EZ-SR to it to show how easy it is to mod.
The forearms on the base kit are kind of flimsy to begin with.
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No.18909
>>18828
That's so fucking cool. Too bad I'm not paid well enought to afford this.
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No.18914
>>18830
It's just your typical online action game. This one actually has you boarding a robot during certain quests–optionally, in some cases. They usually look like Figure A, except in whatever primary color your dude's current outfit is, like in Figure B.
>>18838
>are AIDS kits related to the FAG line?
They are now!
>>18909
I had to cut back on most of the vidya and cheap HG kits to make sure I've got the money ready for this and a figma coming in in February. But that's more /toy/-related. My personal problem is that I just buy shit on impulse, like the RG Red Frame and Koto's Zero kit that are still in their boxes.
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No.18915
>>18914
I don't see the appeal in that last kit you posted but the first one looks rad.
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No.18918
>>18915
It's for FAG fans who also like PSO2. That one is marketed as an "A.I.S. Coloration" variant.
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No.18958
Are there any Gunpla actually made of metal?
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No.18960
>>18958
Using diecast metal pieces for parts of the frame? Yes. Look at the old-ass MG Nu and the Hi-Resolution Model kit series, and maybe the Metal Build line of figures.
Actually made of metal? Well, they wouldn't be Gundam plastic models if they were completely made of metal, so no. There's this Metal Earth thing, though. http://www.fascinations.com/gundam
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No.18962
>>18960
Is that modeled off the 70's Gundam? It looks rather old style.
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No.18964
>>18962
The head itself looks 70s-ish, but the thing has details that you see on more modern iterations. I couldn't tell you, though; thing's apparently going to release this weekend, and it's $23 at this one website. Not really interested in picking it up, to be honest.
Also, it apparently has three beam sabers, because lol
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No.18965
>>18964
>it apparently has three beam sabers
Two for the hands and a spare for the bedroom.
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No.19019
Finished this kit months ago, probably needs more decal
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No.19026
>>19019
God AC kits are sexy
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No.19027
>>19026
do not lust over the plamo
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No.19029
>>19019
Nice.
But yeah, could do with a little bit more panel lining and detailing to give it pop.
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No.19030
Got this kitbash fitted together today and started painting.
>>19019
Welcome back ACfag, I like that blue.
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No.19032
>>19030
It's Tamiya gun metal and purple to be exact.
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No.19033
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No.19043
My first attempt at severe weathering/battle damage.
They're the pauldrons from the Graze Ritter.
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No.19044
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No.19045
>>19044
Looks good, anon. The battle damage is spot on.
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No.19046
>>19043
>>19044
Its a little but heavy but props to you for doing some research on damage instead of randomly splattering the kit with silver paint.
A dot filter over this would look really great.
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No.19047
Also, some progress on my grimgerde thing. I just have the base left to do now.
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No.19048
>>19046
>a little but heavy
Yeah, I've tried to strip it back a little bit.
The look I was going for was a deserter that just took their MS and ran, having to weather the conditions and various bounty hunters that come after them.
I was planning on getting two or three of the 1/144 vanilla Graze and setting up a diorama.
I started working on the left leg and am just trying to give it a bit more of a natural paint wear right now.
>>19047
Nice.
The Grimgerde already had that knight look going for it but that crest and shield do wonders for its presence.
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No.19049
>>19048
Sounds cool man. Im glad im not the only person around here who likes weathering.
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No.19050
Any kits still in production that have a backpack like the Gyan Marine? Closest I have is the Gelgoog Cannon, but it would require some cutting and sculpting that I'd rather avoid.
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No.19051
>>19050
>Pepsigyan
I like it
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No.19052
On the final stretch, just a few more finishing touches
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No.19053
Quick weekend build. I love these little egg tanks.
>>19050
I dont think there is an hg with that exact backpack. Try dalong.
>>19052
Looking good man. Its impressive that you got a good color out of bare plastic like that.
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No.19060
>>19052
Alright, it's done for now but I'll do a few more touchups once I get all the stuff for the diorama together.
Things like adding some more paint chipping to edges, mud splatter etc.
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No.19061
>>18840
>Both my dude.
Well the Amazing GM/GM Cannon is only going to get some color apps to the weapons and maybe some lining, but Flower Pettie'gguy will hopefully get a Rose/Floral paint job if I ever work up the nerve.
>>19052
>>19060
Ah, good to see you went back and finished the Inner Frame!
While it might be a bit much for my taste, having untouched plastic on the inside was off-putting.
I especially like the metallic wash.
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No.19062
Decided to start my very first kitbash.
It's gonna be a modified Hyakuri to look like a protoype mobile suit for the JSDF.
Gonna be using some junk parts and bits of runners to make Missile pods for the backpack.
Still in the planning phase though, but I got ahead of myself and already did one shoulder thruster.
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No.19066
>>19062
>first kitbash
What tools do you have currently? If you've got a pin vise with a 3mm drill bit, you can save yourself a ton of headache by just drilling 3mm holes and using 3mm runners as the missiles. I can throw together an example piece if you want.
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No.19094
>>19066
I'll be going on a run to the hobbyshop soon to pick up a few things and was planning exactly to do that for the missiles.
I've got some leftover red runner from another kit the perfect size for the missiles.
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No.19127
Is there a kit with a nice, chunky flame effect I could fit in Beargguy III's mouth?
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No.19129
>>19127
Not sure about a kit, but there's probably an effects part or two that fits what you're looking for from some of those toy lines like the Figarts and so forth
Might be some generic "fire effects parts" too
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No.19131
>>19127
The ninpulse effect parts fit into beam saber holes. There's also the builder parts set which was almost the exact same pieces.
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No.19132
>a few days into building a Zaku II
>only now realize my kit was missing a several pieces
end my life
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No.19135
>>19129
So far all the fire effects I can find are base decorations. This is a lot harder than I thought it would have been.
>>19131
Those are nice but not enough fire for what I have in mind.
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No.19136
I'm behind on my photos, I've built several kits since my last posting but I've only just gotten to taking pictures of my most recent and biggest pleasant surprise yet. The Zock, this kit was delightful to examine with lots of unseen internal detail and fun bits of design such as the articulated eye cameras that can slide around wherever you want them. The symmetrical front back is unique among kits and the kit itself is a huge solid plastic brick shithouse. You of course can't expect too much pose power from a large green mecha potato but it still manages to have a lovable personality.
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No.19138
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No.19161
You ever hit that one pose that you just plain don't want to change once you get it? Also I might take off those shoulder shields on the gya gya, they don't really add anything to an otherwise fantastic looking kit.
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No.19162
Catching up on kits I've built but not photographed.
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No.19163
First two builds of the year. I spent over 60 hours working on that RG.
>>19138
>>19161
>>19162
>all those mono eye suits
My nigga
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No.19164
>>19163
Well your work paid off because it looks great. The skinny legs of the zudah put me off.
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No.19165
>>19163
Looks really good, I like all the detail on that Zaku. Almost makes it look like a metal figure.
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No.19166
>>19164
>>19165
Thanks guys. The zaku is the first model I've done that I can say I'm really proud of.
Zudah's legs are a bit wonky but I love it's core and head.
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No.19167
>>19166
That's your first model? Pretty impressive for a first attempt.
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No.19168
>>19167
I know it's several hours later but I just now realized I misread his post, I first thought he wrote "The zaku is the first model I've done, and I can say I'm really proud of it."
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No.19169
Okay, could someone explain why pics 2 and 3 look so much different in terms of reflectivity? I used the same paint, topcoat, and thinned the top coat the same, and applied it using the same airbrush in similar application and conditions and yet they turned out different. Could there be any reason for this? Besides shit luck that is. Also rate the rest of it. I know the yellow parts are pretty poorly painted, especially the attempts to fill in the black areas, but my masking skills are not the greatest. Also the decals could have been applied better (and I completely forgot about the concept of mark setter).
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No.19171
>>14922
Oh hey, I preordered this.
Working on pic related right now.
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No.19172
Got a haul of rare tools today. The people at volks USA are friendly as fuck and they're imorting BMC tools.
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No.19173
>>19172
>imorting
You mean importing?
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No.19174
>>19173
I don't think anyone was confused as to what he meant. I'm confused where your WIP is though.
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No.19175
>>19171
That is some impressive shine son.
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No.19176
>>19175
Wish I could take credit for doing it, but I bought the shine when I was newer. Expo version of build burning metallic coated
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No.19177
>>19172
>bmc tools
My dick is ready but my wallet isnt.
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No.19178
>>19177
yeah no fucking kidding, i'd get one if i knew which one would be a good inbetween for hg and mg but i'm shit with sizes
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No.19179
Can anyone recommend a good generic 1/144 shield with visor slot that does NOT have the stupid feddy cross on it and more squarish than the elliptic one the gelgoog has? I'm not too confident in modifying my waff's shield to have a visor and rim and was thinking of getting an alternative shield with some of the work already done.
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No.19180
>>19179
The HGBF Powered GM Cardigan has a shield with a visor, but it might not be what you're looking for.
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No.19181
Pretty soon we're going to have to migrate to this thread >>16915
My God, this thread has been up since 2016.
>>19177
They're worth it if you can spare the change.
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No.19182
>>19181
Yeah I've been trying to decide how I want to spread out the damage. Maybe just a 0.5mm one and handle for now, then others one at a time after.
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No.19183
>>19182
>Maybe just a 0.5mm one and handle for now, then others one at a time after.
Not a bad way to go if you don't want to splash out all that cash in one big lump sum.
Thread's full, it took a year and a half. You'd never get that kind of life expectancy on a 4/m/ thread.
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