No.166
The board itself is ready, the drive is a work in progress.
I will update this thread periodically with new pics.
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No.167
The plastic parts which go under the board are 3d-printed,
that includes 2 parts for the batterybox and 4 parts for the fastenings.
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No.168
The fastenings had support material which turned out to be
somewhat difficult to remove. The larger fastenings have
central pathways to secure the electrical wires in place.
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No.169
Here are some shots of it showing off the holographic surface
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No.170
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No.174
Here's what the bottom of the board looks like without the additional parts.
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No.179
And here's the top, again without additional parts
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No.189
I'm experimenting to see what the bottom of the board might look like when its finished
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No.190
I haven't drilled any holes or fastened any of the components yet. The hoverpads will have to be improved upon. Right now I'm working on the placement of the components on the board to make it look better.
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No.196
Today I drilled the holes to fasten the parts to the underside of the board. I had exactly the right amount of the screws which fitted for the fastenings. The sheets holds them pretty well in place but its still possible to use a screwdriver to fasten or loosen them.
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No.197
Here's a sideview of the board. The batterybox is open so only one half of it is on the board until I find better screws. The screws for the fastenings are perfect but the batterybox is still missing the right screws.
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No.198
Here it is standing up on its back end from the floor. The board is a foam board fitted with two aluminium sheets on both sides.
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No.199
Each side has two aluminium plates but only one layer. So each side has two pieces that lay flat side by side to make up the total length of the board.
The batterybox snaps neatly into place between the 2 larger fastenings without any screwing. The top half of the box will be screwed on to close it. The screws will go through the other part and in through the aluminium sheeting to make it more sturdy.
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No.200
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No.201
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No.202
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No.203
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No.224
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No.225
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No.226
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No.227
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No.535
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No.536
>>535
OP here, I had issues with my power supply (circuit for the batterybox) basically it should convert the low voltage from the battery/batteries to a high voltage high frequency DC. I had an accident and couldn't get the right parts as of yet.
If anyone's sceptical of it working there are plenty of longboard projects using lipo batteries that can move a person on it sideways, so why not up?
Also the side of the board has a thin strip which might not be noticable in the movie but I'm thinking of adding an LED strip tape to it (it has a sticky backside)
As for the board I made, it was made out of foam which was then sandwiched between two plates of aluminum which were later covered with holographic thin film.
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No.539
The aluminium plates were sawed, polished and attached to the foam board with adhesive. The adhesive on the top of the board was used for the holographic thin film.
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No.540
The decorations were put on after the holographic thin film, electrical insulation tape and stickyback velcro.
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No.736
A small piece of the styrofoam broke off the side of the side of the board by accident earlier this year but the piece fits in the board to look as if it never broke off. So I looked into ways to not only repair but to also strengthen and protect the board. I bought this PVA wood glue to coat the sides with after looking through some sites and videos online. A lot of the paints and glues will dissolve foams like this but wood glue and acrylic resins can work for coating it. The wood glue should only be applied in a well ventilated area.
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No.737
Here's what the broken off piece looks like when separated from the board, which shows that its just made from ordinary polystyrene foam
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No.738
And here's what it looks like when the piece has been refitted into the hole it broke off from. One can hardly tell that its been broken as the piece fits in near seamlessly.
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No.740
After coating it with 3 layers of wood glue its a lot more tolerant on the sides. Its got a more hard and smooth surface and sounds more muffled than when I run my fingers over the untreated surface. It might still need a few more layers but this seems to work very well
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No.741
I highlighted the side a bit better and it shows glossy reflections off the side of the foam that I coated (I only coated the foam)
Its a bit difficult to get an even coat but it could be coated more where its lacking in later layers and it the surface can also be sanded later
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No.742
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No.1136
The holographic film is a bit vulnerable to damage but areas with damage can be covered with new film, maybe there's a way to shield the film better without damaging it but I haven't figured out how to do that yet
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No.1184
>>166
How do you want it to hover?
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No.1191
>>1184
Electrically
The basis for it is all there, it just needs the right materials in the right arrangement and more experimentation
See this thread;
>>217
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No.1257
The idea is that the board has 2 hoverpads which cause it to hover, provided energy from the box in the center.
This is one of the ideas for the hoverpads
>>1117
The dimensions for the size of this hoverboard are as follows;
Length: 70 cm or 27"
Width: 18,8 cm or 7.5"
Depth: 2,5 cm or 1"
Regular cd/dvd/blueray disc size could be used for elements inside the hoverpads. Given that idea the size of such a disc is 12 cm in diameter. The aluminium plates are about 17 cm wide. so an idea for the cover for the hoverpad could be 16 cm diameter on the outermost edge, middle slant could vary and the inner ring could be 12 cm diameter. The sketch in the pic has a side view of the cover for this idea.
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No.1290
>>1136
It might work to shield it better by covering it with clear tape
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No.1296
>>1191
damn, nice, keep it up
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