/tg/ - Traditional Games

Let's start with something so fucking easy that it doesn't even really take any skill to make: Blank cards. A basic little thing that has many uses!

If you want to prototype your own TCG, or make some tokens for your deck these are a cheap and easy way to make some while maintaining a good level of tactile quality so you can shuffle and draw and lay them out as easily as normal cards. Likewise, you could use these to make your own Deck of Many Things, or create a random encounters deck, or a treasure deck, or a crit fail - crit success deck. You could make your own spell cards or hand them out to players to give them a clue to some plot element in the game.

I went to my FLGS and grabbed a pack of sleeves for $1, then I went to the Dollar store and grabbed a deck of playing cards and some note cards, also $1 each. The cards I bought have the corners nipped off, but that doesn't make a difference. You can also use old TCG cards if you want or if it suits your needs. The note cards were also also pretty thin and unlined on either side. You might find the lining useful, so consider that option too.

Step 1) Put a playing card into a sleeve.

Step 2) Fold a notecard in half and then carefully tear or cut it so you have two equal-sized pieces.

Step 3) Put half the notecard in the sleeve

Step 4) Repeat Steps 1 through 3 until you have as many blank cards as you need or until you run out of materials.

At most, this costs you $3 and some change. The playing cards give each sleeve some more substance, meaning you can handle them like normal, unlike painstakingly cutting and trimming notecards and cardstock to be card-shaped, and even then, they still wouldn't feel quite the same as a normal card.

Posting this here as well

mega new zealand

#F!tQ1lVBDZ!pB7JRwFPn5ixbR8ELcZ_1w

This is a collection of cosplay related books from Humble Bundle. It contains all kinds of potentially useful information that a suitably inventive fa/tg/uy could put to use.

Here's a little gift for you thrifty anons: a 60% off coupon for Joann craft stores. They also sell paints, brushes, some clay and sculpting type stuff.

If you sign up for their emails, Joann and Michaels Crafts send out at least one 40% off coupon per week. This is nice to save you a few bucks every now and then, but it's especially nice for grabbing tools you might not have.

I made a bunch of minis with bismuth, tin solder, and zinc.

Started some very early preliminary work on a new dice bowl. I posted a little tutorial for this thing ages ago on ye olden /tg/ and then made another one at some other point, but never quite finished or fine tuned the design. The whole thing was a little too big which doesn't work when table space is already hard to come by.

Once I get the measurements and size about where I want it, I'm going to make the whole thing out of 1/8 inch plywood and give the interior a layer of green felt. Maybe stain it and make it look extra fancy.

Before I go to bed: Do consider checking your local crafts store sometime if you haven't already. They sell all kinds of shit you might find useful.. Like every possible kind and color of glass bead, great to use as tokens and placeholders for that homebrew game you're going to make and prototype along with those blank cards I taught you how to make.

You can also find stuff like giant blocks of foam, both floral and styro, great for carving terrain which you can decorate and spice up with some of the decorative stones and beads they sell.

Might I suggest Cantilever Organizers and Tool Boxes?

>>309290

Mainly for homebrew hunting game but eventually it became a hobby that led me to learn a bit of metallurgy.

>>309292

Here my set up, it absolutely the minimum that anyone can get with a small budget and a frugal mind set. In a later day I can show ya the process, I do have a previous video on but it shit. So I can make a new one, since I'm making a chess set.

>>309292

Oh yeah, bismuth make for great detail but it absolutely shit when it come durability. So you have mix it with other soft metals.

>>309331

It a electrical heating pot, use to make lures out of lead; all I have to do is wait until it get to a proper melting temperature. For the chaos, I often sleep there.

I don't dump straight away, first I got to prep the mold, with a cotton ball I apply talcum powder on the figure area, this help oxygen to leave the mold and a small extension to the mold shell life. Then using either test pour or heat gun, I warm the mold and prepare it for the actual pour. It recommended to use a oven to warm the mold but I kinda find it more efficient to use those method to pre warm the mold.

Before the mold preparation, getting the metal to proper casting temperature is a must, and knowing the right mix of metal since working with bismuth can be a pain at times, specially when it comes to to mold with weak points.

>>309351

Hmm, I can always use advice and new techniques. I give it a download once I get back to my hobby station. Thank anon.

Spent some quality time with the dice bowl. Decided to just go with an all cardboard build for now, and to go with a heptagonal design this time.

Coming together nicely so far.

How coincidental, I'm actually working on making a DM screen for my pokemon game, modeled on the Ruins of Alph. I'd make it out of sturdier materials, but I don't see the point in doing that until I have a place with enough space for a real gaming table.

The idea here is to hollow out the two foam blocks on the bottom and put some kind of lid on top and use that as dice/miniature storage. The sides of the walls will be connected to the main area by hinges, so it can be folded up into a nice 2 square foot package.

I'm about to start the painting part of this minis.

>>309280

Neat.jpeg

Where do you get your Bismuth?

In the UK it's as expensive as fuck, the only cheaper source I can find is sold as "Bird Shot" for shotgun shells.

I don't have a gun license and (being a Britfag) the only way to obtain one would be to create a parallel universe were I already have a gun license.

I'm recasting these Niggers of the Coast Stormtroopers - so they're metal instead of the super bombastic chinese sweatshop rubber plastic

>>309628

Roto metal

https://www.rotometals.com/lead-free-bullet-casting-alloy-88-bismuth-12-tin/

Im not sure what you would call cheap but this guy's sold me the bismuth at 13(in burger cash) per pound since I bought 10 pound worth of it. They do ship internationally, again I don't know your budget is like nor how much bismuth is worth in bogland.

Also did you made the mold yourself? Did you use a combination of materials or did you use the 2 part commercial crap?

>>311030

>>311031

Everything coming up on google is for adding texture and different properties when it's mixed with paint, not actually modeling and sculpting.

I imagine if you were making terrain, you could do some cool stuff with it.

>>309628

Casting my collection of Bones, they've sat in Hydrogen Peroxide for a month.

I want them as conversion parts for Chaos shit - like the "King Khorne" Tank.

Skull mould and one casting is now done.

>>312006

This>>312007

But wear a Dust mask (Formaldehyde gives you Cancer.mp3).

And get it primed on all surfaces - it has a tendency to warp, i.e. if you paint only one side and leave the other as exposed wood it'll slowly bow.

A finish a Land Raider mould. I got some sections of Spine cast as well.

>>314530

>improved weapon

improvised weapon

>>308131

I did some more work on my Land Raiders.

They're going to have mkii sponsons because that type looks more like the mkiv Tank that the Land Raider's obviously based on - and also resin casting all the small swivelly bits that go to make up the mkiii would drive me insane.

I also made this Chaos Dreadnought thing out of miscast parts and casts of spinal cord, it's going to be a Tyranid Dreadnought/Mecha Suit for Rogue Trader.

>>324949

KV-2

I might be trying my hand at sculpting and resin casting minis in the near future. Do any of you have experience with using silicone and dish soap method of mold-making? I'm curious to see if I can make a 2-part mold with the method.

I was going to sculpt a generic little mini, but now I totally want to make this awesome little Goblin Slayer.

>>329427

Seems to be based on the Isle of Lewis chess set, if you need further references.

>>329427

Fucking Sculpey. The more you work with it, the softer it gets.. and then it gets too fucking soft and the slightest bit of extra pressure and it smushes all the details right out. Going to let this guy air dry for a while, then throw him in the oven, refine things a bit with some filing, then see about making a mold.

>>329869

Still have some work to do, but after firing it in the oven for 15 minutes, it was good for sanding and filing, which was a meticulous process. Also left a few areas too thin and ended up poking through to the tinfoil, so I had to use superglue as a filler.

Weather is kind of shit right now, but if it's nice tomorrow, I'm going to see about making a ghetto-ass mold for this thing and the other little guy using the silicone and cornstarch method.

Learning to sculpt. Doing a chaos spawn that's tearing it's self apart so you can see all it's insides as a demon tears it's way out of it.

>>330128

Welp. Fuck me.

Short version of the story: I had a kit that included 2-part mold silicone and 2-part resin. It was sitting in storage for so long that one of the bottles sprang a leak and then crusted over. Ruined the whole box but most of the supplies were still usable. I guess the leaking resin bottle was completely ruined because instead of creating resin, it created styrofoam that forcibly expelled part of the mixture.

I've got a test batch curing on the side to see if I just mixed it badly, but I think I just might need to buy a whole new kit.

>>330138

Tried to salvage the shitty pull with some wood glue. It bonds well enough but it will always look like it survived the Gulf War.

Got my hands on some new resin from the craft store (had a 50% off coupon) and got a much better pull, but the mold itself isn't all that great.. But still, progress! It's a pretty fun, if messy, little distraction.

>>330228

Success!

Made a new mold with a new set up. Went through the remainder of my silicone caulk, but it worked out. It's ugly as sin, but with the cardboard tube, there's no worries about leaks or issues with the mold going back together.

First pull got fucked up, because the resin started to cure inside the pour hole. This shit sets way too fast.

After adding a second air channel, the second pull gave me the kind of results I've been trying to get, with only minimal flashing and air bubbles, though it did overflow like a mother fucker.

>>330259

>>330451

Quality of my pulls from either mold have been spotty. I keep running into the issue of the bases not filling completely, so I have to add more resin to them, which just makes things messy. I've got a different mold making material that I'm going to try later, but so far, I've got a few decent enough results.

I need to come up with a way to make a decent base for the Goblin Slayer mini and stop wasting time practicing on these generic dude.

After a lot of being lazy and not doing any work on it, I started working on the Goblin Slayer mini again. Ran into the issue of needing a lathe but not having one.. So I settled on wrapping a wad of sculpey around a tinfoil coil and then using a large PVC pipe to make it properly cylindrical.. and after cooking it, I carefully and meticulously carved and leveled the rounded base by hand.

While working over the mini to make sure it looked okay, I ended up poking a few holes in it, because the material was so thin. I ended up using a neat little trick I learned from youtube prop makers. If you mix baby powder and super glue, you can get a pretty nice filler material. I've currently got some of that drying so I can go over and smooth out problem areas. Works really, really nicely, but the fumes can sting like a motherfucker if you're not wearing googles and a dust mask.

Also, I finally got around to fully assembling a lasercut dice bowl. I had temporary access to a laser cutter and I quickly threw together the rough schematics for a dice bowl. Didn't properly account for the thickness of the material which fucked everything up. I needed to remove a lot of material and use a lot of wood filler to make up for it. Sealed up the whole thing with a wash of wood glue and now I'm debating if I should paint it for stain it.

>>335586

All interesting ideas! The Gondola, in particular, strikes me as a unique challenge. He'd need to be flexible and posable.. I wonder if I could do a reverse mold where I pour silicone into a hard mold.

Also, I've got good news…

MOLD SUCCESSFUL

I was kind of worried when I found myself rushing because I mixed way too much silicone last night and had to scramble to find other shit to slop with purple goop.. but I went and used some of my cheap craft store resin and the results are fantastic. Besides a few bits of silicone that got into each mold during the cleaning process, the results are.. pretty damned perfect.

After some cleaning and repair on my first few pulls, I decided to try a little painting and weathering. I'm a little iffy on the results.

>>335879

A wash of just black yields unimpressive results. A coat of black with a treatment of gold rub n buff on top looks phenomenal.

The gold isn't necessarily accurate, but damned if it doesn't look amazing.

>>336446

>>336034

Mother of god, that's amazing. I almost want to get one for my stepfather, who DMs in his spare time. Some suggestions for other minis would be other 'generic' minis (Like the little pawn-looking dude but different shapes, like cubes, or wider bodies, in different sizes, etc) for DMs who want to differentiate between THIS kind of asshole and THAT kind of asshole. So happy to see that the earlier failure wasn't the end of the project.

Thanks for allowing me to shill and dominate this thread. I wasn't really expecting to turn this into a business, but I would very much like to make more things people want. Game pieces, tokens, minis, coins, and such.

>>337125

I'm by no means an expert, but I can tell you that it's a little more daunting and intimidating than it really is. Watch a few tutorials on youtube (smooth-on and other suppliers usually have a lot of them) and find some propmaker channels that do stuff on mold making.

It doesn't hurt to spend a little money on cheap materials to get your hands dirty, either. One way I avoid burning money is buying certain materials from the dollar store (nitrile gloves, sanding blocks, tinfoil, wax paper, etc) and then I used the 40% coupons that craft stores like Michaels and Joann give out daily to get my hands on stuff like 2-part resin. I just saw recently that they also have some mold-making putty that you mix by kneading which wouldn't hurt to experiment with if a full smooth-on silicone kit is too intimidating or expensive.

Got here this morning. The chibi nature plays tricks on the mind, and even in side by side comparison with standard marine it is actually larger than my brain lets it be. Wat da fug. Also, very nice feel, that's a good resin mixture. If I didn't know better I'd have thought it was carved out of palm nut or such.

Things are coming along. /tg/-tan's head is looking a bit larger than it should be, though. Also, I'm trying to figure out a way I could make his hat so it would be able to survive having a match-head or something similar placed in it, for that flaming effect.

>>337927

Head needs to be more angular to be honest.

Hat problem, could make the whole figure hollow with a few outlets as a holder for pic related.

>>337934

The way I've learned to work with sculpey involves getting most of the broad details while it's soft, then cooking it and carving in the remaining parts. Still trying to decide if I want to go for the hard mechanical look or the cartoon rounded look.. Could probably do both and see how they look. It's a really small amount of material, after all.

I'm at a little bit of a stand-still with the generic minis. I've made some progress, made some molds for the basic sizes, bases, and so on.. then ran out of material to make molds for the head pieces. Then I got more silicone!.. Now I'm just dreading the process of producing several of each, painstakingly cleaning, refining and prepping them (gotta get rid of all the air bubbles and inconsistencies), then molding those.

Took a break from the generic minis to work on /tg/-tan. The top hat is giving me the biggest problem.

Made this lil guy a long time ago as a character piece.

>>339938

Had a spare piece of leather to wrap around with a spot of glue for the shirt and the vest/pants were leftover from kids craft stuff I had lying around from years ago. It was those craft foam sheet things, the peel and stick kind but you can get it without the peel and stick glue stuff. (I didn't want the sticky one so I could take off the clothes and change them if need be.

skull is just that flat cereal box style cardboard that I drew with a pen on.

Worked up a staff for ol' Teej and.. It's too fucking big. And this is after painstaking shaping the smallest wooden bead I could find into a d20. I'm either going to have to drastically modify his right arm or change the staff somehow. I'm not eager to do either.

>>340023

I've made some basic duct tape and foam boffer swords for my little nephews and cousins to beat the shit out of each other, but that's about it.

>>341188

Well, dubdubs, the big problem is that it occupies and overlaps a lot of the space with the hat. If I scoot it down, it covers his face. If I move it higher up, it will look awkward and likely cause problems when I have to mold it. The hand and staff will have to be a separate piece anyways, but it's still something I need to think about.

Tried a couple different staff heads. This one is the smallest and causes the fewest problems without having to completely rebuild his right arm.

Progress has been made. Discovered if you heat up Sculpey in the stove, it regains some of it's pliability. Not very much, but some. Enough for me to pry the right arm over just a little bit. I cleaned that little part out, wedged some more sculpey in there, cooked it, and I was good to go again.

A little more cleaning and tweaking and detailing, a couple coats of primer to reveal the trouble spots and clean up some of the texturing, and I'm just about ready for final assembly and moldmaking.. Which is really daunting because this guy might have to be a 2-part mold.

I'm almost reluctant to glue the hat on, but it doesn't sit snugly enough on his head to be cast separately.

2-part mold: Mostly successful

Casting and pulling from it: some difficulties

Mass production?: Possibly.

>>342745

You'd get less bubbles on the staff if you slope it downwards and add vents - like pic.

>>342893

Followed this advice, made a new mold, got great results. I've got a few really good pulls so far, but I think no matter what I do, there's always going to be a few tiny ones in there. It's such an intricate mold with so many places for them to get stuck no matter how I rotate and vibrate and jiggle the mold. I'm considering cutting in a second air vent to see if that helps at all.

Problems solved. Listing going up soon. Hope you don't mind me continuing to dominate this thread.

As long as I'm here though, I've got quite a few pulls from the mold that have noticeable air bubbles and blemishes. Considering adding a variant listing at a cheaper price for those who would be up to repairing and customizing a Teej on their own. I know some of you are quite talented when it comes to painting and greenstuff sculpting.

>>343816

Been fucking around in between holiday stuff. Managed a half-assed slushcast for the possibility of putting lights in a hollow teej, but the results weren't great. I think I fucked up the resin somehow.

Decided to say 'fuck it' and added a variant on the etsy store for the messed up pulls I've accumulated. They've all got different little problems but are mostly serviceable. A little green stuff and some sanding, and they'll be perfectly fine. I just don't think it's worth the time to try and fix so many of them when I can just go ahead and cast another, better one.

Here's the catch, though. I've set up a coupon for $5 off. If etsy works the way I think it does, it means you only have to pay shipping if you want one of these ugly little fuckers. Likewise, if you wanted one of the Goblin Slayers, there's $5 off for that too.

Find my shit on etsy, use the code FATGUY8 and you should get that discount.

>>345123

I have a set of small needle files that do most of the work when it comes to shaping and detailing for the original sculpt and the resin cast copies and I use some dollar store sanding sponges to help cover larger areas. With most of these, it's just a matter of sanding/filing off the seam lines, using a tiny hand drill and an exacto blade to clean out the little holes, and picking away the little air bubble beads with my fingernail.

If you're not careful, you can easily end up leaving some little sanding lines, but it just takes a little practice to avoid. It's tricky to explain because it's a tactile thing you learn from working with the material and tools.

Doing a slushcast to make a hollow teej wasn't too hard, but for some reason, the resin came out faintly sticky and soft, long after it should have hardened. I ended up snapped off the brim of his hat while trying to carve the hole in his back. Also stabbed my thumb a few times while doing that.

Thanks so much to all the fa/tg/uys who have not only tolerated my shilling, but also threw me a few shekels. I just ordered more resin and I'm plotting some different minis to work on, but I think eventually, it might be more polite to stop using this thread as free advertising.

I'm playing Shadowrun 3e where initiative is constantly changing. As such I bought these blank ID cards to use as initiative cards; they're durable as hell, don't seem to stain, and will probably last me for all my DMing days. Best of all I got a ton of them for around $10. Highly suggest it if you're looking for initiative cards for games with more complex initiative systems.

>>345685

I wouldn't worry about it, bro. /tg/ doesn't get enough actual content like this, as it is. Besides, your stuff's inspired me to get back in to crafting. I've started whittling some again, in the hopes of maybe carving some figures I could use easily enough in games.

Picture somewhat related. Carved this little guy on the right a few days ago. Might do a bit more with it, but for now, I think it works as a fairly decent little generic figure.

On an unrelated note, the lich has a very downward gaze. Makes him a massive pain in the ass to picture. Looks great, though. Got one with the minor defects, and most of them are the type of thing I wouldn't even notice were it not for the circles around them. I think there were five spots in total, and only two are going to need any real work I'd say.

Well, the molds are a mixed bag. Not unusable, but each pull does require a bit of work. The biggest problem is that the pegs for their necks come out smaller than the originals, which means the slots on the heads are too loose to hold them on with friction. They glue on just fine, but it's disappointing that I spent all that time getting them sized right, only for this to happen.

>>347189

It's too bad you are having so much trouble with these. I really like how substantial they are.

Thanks for sending me one, I would love to buy more.

>>348574

The one I sent you was made with the cheaper resin. It casts well enough, but takes about a full day before it completely sets and solidifies, but if I use smoothcast 300, I should be able to churn them out more quickly. The problems I'm grappling with are all about how I'd sell them. The one I sent you was already glue together, but the friction fitting didn't work out, so I'd either have to sell them pre-assembled or not and tell people to glue them on their own (not a big deal, I guess). Which then raises the issue of how to go about selling the different heads and body sizes.

I think I'm just being a lazy faggot and overthinking things, but since I'm using etsy, that's also posing certain problems when it comes to listing and allowing people to purchase the exact quantities and individual pieces they want.

Man.. if I'm going to do this sort of thing with any hope of making money and not just spending it all on materials, I'm going to have to seriously step up my game in some way… But for the past few days, I've been building up a stock and finally decided to just bite the bullet and list the damned things. I decided to just list them all as one general batch with options for greater quantities with a slight price break and instructions to tell me what types you want.

I ended the other coupon code, but I'll give you faggots the next best thing. Until the 25th, all orders get free domestic shipping with the coupon code MERRYTEEJMAS. Feel free to call me a faggot and berate me for shilling so damned much.

>>350306

>>350305

In that case, lemme share some of the knowledge I've accrued in the mass production process.

Since I've been working with lots of resin and mixing lots of the stuff in small batches, I've figured out a few things that I didn't learn from watching shit on youtube. Specifically, tweaking the mix ratio. 2-part resins are typically mixed in a 1:1 ratio. Some are 10:1, but I haven't touched those. The Part A of the mix is usually a kind of yellow-ish color with a watery consistency, while the Part B is thicker, more like a syrup.

If your ratio is off and you have a little bit more part B than A, you get a gummier result that takes much longer to cure. I haven't toyed with it much, but in the few instances where I fucked up hard, I ended up with a faintly, semi-translucent resin that stayed soft for hours after it should have turned rock hard. I might see what I can do with that for making stuff that lights up.

Now, if you get more Part A than B.. you're fine. The A seems to be the hardener that kicks off the curing process after a few minutes. Having a little bit more A won't harm your mix and I feel like it's better safe than sorry to have just a skosh more of the stuff.. But then again, we're talking about very small batches of resin. Most I mix at a time when filling a few of these molds at a time is about 20mL (10mL of each).

Incidentally, I've noticed while mixing resin that a fully mixed batch turns cloudy for a moment, then goes more clear. If you can still see little streaks of the syrupy part B, keep mixing.. but if you feel the mixing cup starting to warm up, you need to start pouring quickly.

Something else I've taken to doing, at least when I'm mass producing, is keeping pulls with defects in them (air bubbles, dents, etc) nearby, so when I get to the bottom of my little mixing cup, I can take a toothpick or popsicle stick and scrape up little bits of not-yet-cured resin, and dip it into the problem areas. Usually I just glob on a bit of the stuff because it can be sanded down later. In a few instances, I did a lousy job cutting the bases free, so I just dipped them directly in the resin and then set them down on a sandwich baggy (because it's smooth and resin doesn't stick to it) and then cleaned up the bases with a sanding sponge once the new material had fully hardened. And yes, even if the resin is fully cured, a second batch applied on top will stick and adhere as if it were all one piece, as long as the surface is relatively clean.

>>350310

Have you tried or is it even possible to use different colored resin? If you're making a bunch of generic pieces it would be logical to use a bunch of different colors instead of being forced to paint them.

I bought some of your stupid shit you better not give my info to the CIA.

>>350494

>>351113

The size seems good, but the eyebrow ridges are too much for my tastes.

Been busy on and off with some other stuff and Christmas, of course. The old Goblin Slayer mold was starting to wear down and give shitty results, so I decided I'd just make another one to avoid all the problems I'd been having. Since I'm making a new mold, I figured it would probably be best to improve the original sculpt.

See, when I launched into this, I already kind of knew what I was doing when it came to making stuff, but I didn't have a ton of experience working with sculpey. Some areas were too thin and broke through, so I had the brilliant idea to fill them with super glue and then carve them to shape. This did work, but CA glue is harder than baked sculpey and harder to work with. What I learned later ( >>341938 ) is that you can literally just jam fresh sculpey on top of baked sculpey and cook it again and it bonds pretty damned well.

So I've been tearing up and rebuilding the Goblin Slayer, one section at a time. Only problem now is that I'm considering redoing the legs entirely…

>>352578

Fuck. It's been a while, hasn't it? I've been staying busy and fine-tuning the Goblin Slayer to sate my own autism.

Re-made the sword and shield. Fucked up my mold after trying to get one more decent casting out of it, but the resin went wonky on me, so I jammed a tea-light in there. Broke his legs then rebuilt them. Then fine tuned the whole damned thing for a few days before priming and prepping the little guy for a new mold… and now he's currently sitting in about 11 fl oz of silicone, which should be cured sometime tomorrow.

New Goblin Slayer is molded, casted, and ready to go… and with that done, I've started work on something new.

>>357591

:DDDD

>>357596

Thoughts? Critiques? Suggestions?

>>358683

Nothing that can't be fixed, but it's something that kind of happened as I was working it into shape. That longer body became less proportional and longer looking the more I slimmed and tapered him down into a more cylindrical shape.

>>358678

>>358683

Fivehead downgraded.

>>358850

The face is a bit too low. Otherwise its great.

>>358875

Depends on the interpretation. Gondolas come in many sizes and configurations.. though having the face closer to the top curve of the head is pretty common.

/tg/ crafts? fuck yes

I'm an old LARPer - made all kinds of shit myself. Steel plate armor, latex weapons. Good times

>>358926

fuck I had so much fun making all my shit…

>>358927

How do you make hammers like that? I want one

in progress killa kan made out of a plastic bottle, chopstics and a few little pieces of foam

Gambeson time?

>>359184

yours looks like a bark gambeson.

the only think I really hate is the stubs, old lamelar armor had those because they kept the small plates on the inside of the armor in place. you would never wear this without an actual gambeson underneath.

all in all it looks silly.

I've got a box of old gunpla models I built when I was younger and Gundam Wing was still airing. I've been debating on what to do with them for a while, but I think I might make an attempt at kitbashing them into something new. I was thinking of doing something like styling them after fantasy archetypes, so something like a Wizard Gundam or a Barbarian Gundam.

The new mold gave me hell, but it turns out some fantastic results.

>>359491

Good news!

>>359609

>the_greatest_scientific_invention_of_the_21th_century.mp4

>>359615

I've been using my cheap resin for these first few guys, but I'm going to bust out the good stuff for the actual production run. As long as the resin kit doesn't dick me again by shorting my several fl oz of one of the parts, I should be able to produce a couple dozen of these guys. Painting them will be a different matter though.. I'm tempted to get some brown spray paint, but it's cold as hell. Hand painting seems to be the way to go, but that's also tedious.

Many a gondola were made. Some mistakes were made. The weather fucked with my ability to paint things. Gondola became the masketta man. Might have a batch ready sooner, rather than later.

I've been trying to scratch build and cast some maschinen krieger type stuff recently

>>361349

…and I forgot my image.

Hey guys I'm working on converting a Khornate fantasy army into a 40k one. Specifically the BLoodbound mudergang or whatever you can get. With a scalpel and some green stuff I stuck a Skullcrusher Knight's head onto the Slaughterpriest (thought a headdress with skulls was more fitting for something called a priest) and used some cut up sprews to make a street-block thing as a base, then covered that with spare bits from my bloodhound gang and dark eldar army from many years ago. Also had a random Aquila lying around and tried to make a flag with ribbons at the end of it, draped at the end of the base. Haven't used green stuff much so trying to keep it simple. I know on the neck it looks terrible, thinking of making some sort of collar to cover it up or resculpting it altogether so it looks more like his own flesh.

praise Khorne brothers

>>361349

>>361351

Looks nice. Though, might be a touch too dark.

>>361364

It's damned near impossible to find a light brown spray paint in the right finish and tone that dries in a reasonable amount of time. I found a couple that were close, but they needed 9-12 hours to fully dry, and when I need to do multiple coats, front and back, in a limited space, that's just not feasible… I didn't think it would, but the gondolas have really been testing the limits of what I can do with my current dinky set up.

>>361365

That's tragic. Does look slick, in any case.

Used some of today to do some painting. Went to the craft store and paid a little extra for a different brand of brown paint. I'm kind of iffy about the results, but I think once I paint in the face and clear coat it, the result will be much better.

Hey /tg/. I wanted to go with a crystal corruption theme with my new 40k army, but I just can't find crystals that are small enough, have the right shape and are translucent. I have scanned what feels like dozens of tiny bead stores, and did not find anything that fits. Currently considering smashing up some glass into tiny fragments, but I feel like it would be too sharp, and also the wrong shape.

Any advice on finding/making such tiny 1-2-3mm crystals?

>>361667

Depends on crystal you're going for.

Orderly crystal? Just get a ton of soulstones from kromlech or others. Affix at regular intervals and paint it like its something else.

Insanity crystals? There is that layering technique for making translucent water, I'm sure it could work for spikes.

A certain kind of crystal that is technically metal and """canon"""? If it's jutting out it's not correct. It would be affixed to perfect proportions. Imagine the vitruvian man overlayed on every man. Manlets would have a second crystal head above their own. Some would get extra hands/forearm jutting out their palm. Weird shit.

Regardless, I'd recommend just layering translucents over and over, build up what looks like a glow from a distance. An 'aura'. Lines for proper joints.

Crystals need not be spiky.

>>361668

>Just get a ton of soulstones from kromlech or others

Soulstones are round, I want ones that look like on that picture.

>Crystals need not be spiky.

Oh yes they do. I found these, but they are a bit too large at 4-10x4-6x2-4 mm. Maybe I can break them in half and have twice as short ones.

>>361704

Yeah, I might have to scult&mold em. I don't think growing them would be an option, since they'd be way too brittle on such a small size.

So, the temperature went from 20s and lower with icy snow to 60s with humid rain over the course of 2 days. I used that change in weather to fix up the paint job that got fucked up by the cold weather. Now I've got a presentable light brown Gondola to compare to the dark brown ones I'd finished earlier.

The enamel coating on the outside does a good job of making the paint look much cleaner, but it does also protect it from heat and moisture. I've had some more cup noodle in the past week and used a 'finished' gondola as my lid caddy each time and there's no damage or change at all in the texture or color of the little guy.

>>362172

bretty gud

Nanachi isn't really the easiest to sculpt and that pose means she will be a bitch to paint, but what wouldn't I do for my fluffy loli waifu.

She has steel armature, foil flesh hold together by masking tape and super sculpey skin.

I made one sculpture from cheaper, stinky air dry material before. No, not poop, this was smellier. Then I made a few wire frames for practice.

Perhaps it's because of my strong wizard grip, but sculpey is soft. Even softer than the kid's stuff. In YouTube I watched how some lady had to hammer it down to make it malleable. I guess they changed the recipe since then, because this stuff turns to the consistency of chewed gum when I warm it up. It also goes lighter in color when it warms up and back down again when it cools.

The softness has some drawbacks. Like when you're sculpting it's hard to not to make a dent when holding it for support. Also it's like a fly paper to all sorts of grime and dust. I just hope the paint will cover it up.

>>362691

This one? The arm broke off because it didn't have armature or anything inside. It also cracked like Mitty's face when it dried up. It was made with five dollar sculpting mass.

I still have it, maybe I practice painting on it.

>>362679

I've seen a lot of people who work in sculpey forgo even handing their piece by mounting it on a little spinning tray or piece of wood before they start working, often with an affixed metal rod down the middle of the piece to hold it in place.

Working on a piece that you have to handle can be tricky, especially because the heat from your hands can make it softer as you work on it, leading you into a nonstop loop of chasing your mistakes. If you flatten out a bit of sculpey and leave it on a sheet of printer paper, it will leech out some of the oils and harden it up a bit. Also, the beige kind of sculpey is apparently their 'original' formula, but they make a grey 'super sculpey firm' which is probably less prone to some of these problems.

The way I've been circumventing the problem is by purposefully sculpting my stuff somewhat rougher and just a bit larger than needed, then cooking the piece, and going back in with sandpaper, needle files, and wood carving tools to scrape down and refine the shape to be closer to what I want. And just in case you didn't know, you can actually get away with cooking sculpey multiple times. So, for instance, you could work on the legs first, get those about right, and cook them, then start working with fresh sculpey for the torso, cook both pieces together, and slowly work your way up. Since you intend to paint things once it's all done, you will have some options when it comes to hiding your crimes.

>>362706

If you wrap a small bit of cardboard (large enough to fit the whole piece on) in tinfoil, smooth it out as much as possible, and just plop the whole thing on there, it should at least partially attach itself to the smooth surface so you can just move that base around while poking at the figure with your tools and fingers. Plus the tinfoil-wrapped cardboard will be safe to cook. I've also seen that other people who work primarily in polymer clays, like sculpey, like using small sheets of glass for their work surface, though they cook their stuff on cookie sheets lined with parchment paper.

Should also mention that if you need an easy way to cook these small projects, a toaster oven or a small convection oven can do the trick. It's easier than firing up and heating a giant oven for a single small piece. It's a little more energy efficient and easier to keep an eye on.

Same Nanachi fag here.

I bought some paint… But these are enamel paints, picture related.

Internet I should rather use acrylic paints and that enamel paints will never dry. Did I just threw my money in the toilet?

Gondolas are finally up on etsy. I've got a pile of the damned things and I think they're about as good as I can get them.

Posting the mp4 I made for jewtube. 8chan won't let me directly post shortened URLs for some reason

>>362999

Well, all the orders are packed and sent out, so all I can do now is offer my deepest gratitude to you guys, because this small amount of monetary compensation and encouragement has driven me to really get into a lot of skills and techniques that I would not have been motivated enough to pursue on my own.

Okay.

Baked the body, working on head now. Probably going to bake it too before attaching the helmet.

>>363040

>>363174

What about a squatting gondola like in this one

>>363174

>>363183

I've got some other ideas and I might try something a little weird later on, but I'm lining up some stuff for my next project, which isn't going to be of much interest to /tg/ unless you like Monster Hunter. The Gondolas moved really fast, so I'm definitely going to have to take some time to revisit and improve on things, like I did with the Goblin Slayer.

Hope you've been staying crafty, /tg/! Sadly, I haven't had much in the way of stuff to show you guys as I've started a new job and the last project I was working on turned into a massive time-eater, but not one that resulted in anything I thought /tg/ would care about.

So, what have you made lately, /tg/?

>>377358

>monster hunter turd

>>359270

Short sleeved gambeson is fine too

does larp count?

>buy some sample wargaming terrain online

>like the look of it, figure it might work for my RPG game whenever the players are fighting outside

>order some more to give it a real test

>order is delayed for a week

>then two weeks

>then three

>what the fucking fuck is going on?

>finally get an email from them

>they threw in some extra terrain they fucked up on the last order because they're closing for good

>go look at the website

>it's for sale at the low price of $10,000 and was open for 21 years

>>410432

Provided one has all that, does anyone on here know some good resources/have experience with printing? So far I'm using Cura and an Ender printer (modified somewhat) but I have access to a Prusa as well. The main problem that I've run into so far is that while the parts of the model that don't have supports turn out just fine, really smooth, etc, there's still to much stringing/removing the supports is a pain in the ass that fucks up some of the smaller bits. I'll try and post some pics when I can later

>>359184

Make sure your gambesons are thick enough.

Bonus: https://imgur.com/gallery/wkV4fTG

>>417824

What's weird to me is that she is wearing belts, which as opposed to just hanging on her hips, could have been at her waist, emphasizing her shape replacing the corset.

But yeah, it's like she got the researched that one might wear armor over the chainmail, but didn't want to make it.