No.308131 [View All]
As a matter of necessity, /tg/ hobbies crossover with a variety of crafty hobbies. Learning to paint and assemble models and miniatures is a big one, but there are all kinds of other little things we teach ourselves to do in order to enhance our games or increase ease of play.
So, let's have a thread about making crafty things. Props you made for the table. Things you built to contain all the bits and pieces you need for GMing. Dice bowls, deck holders, carrying cases, storage solutions.
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No.362708
>>362699
Definitely practice painting on that first. It's always a good thing to find other uses for a project that didn't turn out well.
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No.362711
>>362706
If you wrap a small bit of cardboard (large enough to fit the whole piece on) in tinfoil, smooth it out as much as possible, and just plop the whole thing on there, it should at least partially attach itself to the smooth surface so you can just move that base around while poking at the figure with your tools and fingers. Plus the tinfoil-wrapped cardboard will be safe to cook. I've also seen that other people who work primarily in polymer clays, like sculpey, like using small sheets of glass for their work surface, though they cook their stuff on cookie sheets lined with parchment paper.
Should also mention that if you need an easy way to cook these small projects, a toaster oven or a small convection oven can do the trick. It's easier than firing up and heating a giant oven for a single small piece. It's a little more energy efficient and easier to keep an eye on.
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No.362739
>>362711
I only have a regular oven.
I tried the cardboard and foil thing, but the foil was too slippery. Then I remembered the plate I made for the failed nanachi to stand on and it was a perfect fit. I'm not sure if it can handle the oven though, so I'll put it on the foil plate when it's time to bake
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No.362882
Same Nanachi fag here.
I bought some paint… But these are enamel paints, picture related.
Internet I should rather use acrylic paints and that enamel paints will never dry. Did I just threw my money in the toilet?
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No.362891
>>362882
Acrylics are definitely easier to work with, but I don't see why you couldn't make it work. Then again, I don't know how well sculpey takes enamel paints. If you've already opened one of your containers, then you might as well test it out. If you bought them locally, it wouldn't be a bad idea to exchange them for acrylics.
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No.362892
>>362882
Well, enamel paints will usually give you a glossy finish, so that's something you need to be aware of when it comes time to paint. Not that they can't be used, as far as I know. Careful not to cook anything that's been painted with enamels, though, as that will probably cause the paint to crack and chip away.
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No.362905
Gondolas are finally up on etsy. I've got a pile of the damned things and I think they're about as good as I can get them.
Posting the mp4 I made for jewtube. 8chan won't let me directly post shortened URLs for some reason
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No.362915
>>362891
They only had these paints. They were made for plastic models, so I thought why not.
I'm not going to shame walk back (or bother to order them online) so I'll stick with these.
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No.362916
>>362905
Is that a fucking fidget spinner?
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No.362917
>>362916
I needed something that could spin. Don't judge me. Borrowed it from my younger brother.
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No.362999
>>362905
You've got my $10 anon, top-tier stuff.
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No.363040
>>362999
Well, all the orders are packed and sent out, so all I can do now is offer my deepest gratitude to you guys, because this small amount of monetary compensation and encouragement has driven me to really get into a lot of skills and techniques that I would not have been motivated enough to pursue on my own.
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No.363067
Okay.
Baked the body, working on head now. Probably going to bake it too before attaching the helmet.
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No.363097
>>363067
Body looks a little thin, but otherwise, it's coming together nicely. One thing that's really going to drive you crazy is the way they beige sculpey tricks the eye and hides texture.
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No.363174
>>363040
Will you do gondolas in other poses?
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No.363183
>>363040
>>363174
What about a squatting gondola like in this one
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No.363184
>>363183
Complete with hat and vodka?
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No.363186
>>363174
>>363183
I've got some other ideas and I might try something a little weird later on, but I'm lining up some stuff for my next project, which isn't going to be of much interest to /tg/ unless you like Monster Hunter. The Gondolas moved really fast, so I'm definitely going to have to take some time to revisit and improve on things, like I did with the Goblin Slayer.
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No.370285
Hope you've been staying crafty, /tg/! Sadly, I haven't had much in the way of stuff to show you guys as I've started a new job and the last project I was working on turned into a massive time-eater, but not one that resulted in anything I thought /tg/ would care about.
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No.377355
So, what have you made lately, /tg/?
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No.377356
>>377355
I hope you have lead underwear on
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No.377358
>>377356
It's a scoutfly lantern from Monster Hunter World, lit with some EL-wire kit I had laying around. Looks great in low-light. The whole thing is made from parts molded and then cast in resin. Taught myself some neat tricks while working on it, but I've been too busy with work and other stuff to do more sculpting and casting.
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No.377570
What is the story behind 8ch tg necromancer mascot?
I haven't been around here for a looong time.
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No.377572
>>377358
>monster hunter turd
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No.389212
>>308133
Can't believe I hadn't thought of this before
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No.389214
>>389212
I was actually just thinking about this project today. I was thinking of making weapon cards for a game I'm going to run. Was planning on making a card template and then printing the weapon stuff on normal paper and sliding it into a sleeve with a card so it's easier to handle at the table and less likely to get ruined and damaged.
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No.389961
>>359270
Short sleeved gambeson is fine too
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No.395787
YouTube embed. Click thumbnail to play.
I casted firebolt & icespike.
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No.408575
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No.408590
>>408575
Yeah, sure, why not? Show us what you've made.
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No.408605
YouTube embed. Click thumbnail to play.
I've got a fuckton of cardboard I'm going to use to make dungeon tiles for my game, following this tutorial. Problem being, I use gridded play (though I would like to try a gridless game at some point), so I have to think of a way to add it myself.
current ideas is to paint the walls and the base separately, and paint the grid onto the base before attaching the walls and adding the embellishments. Painting it with something metallic or reflective so its visible but not too disruptive to the piece.
Current thoughts are spraypainting gridlines by using 1 inch painters tape to make the grid, or using a big reflective metallic permanent marker. Any ideas?
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No.408607
>>408605
Youtube recently dropped me down a rabbit hole of terrain diorama videos. So far, I can't say I've learned anything I intend to take to my table, mostly because I don't want to make massive cliffs and mountains out of plaster and foam and 50 pounds of epoxy resin, but some of the painting techniques are definitely useful.
As for something inobtrusive to put on your dungeon tiles, give silver sharpie a try. It's metallic enough to catch the light, but still fairly dull in most lighting.
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No.408608
>>408605
Draw a grid after priming and use that as a guide for painting stone tiles. Vary it up by adding cracks, moss/mold, small water leaks, etc. Alternatively, just go gridless and use a small tape measure if distance matters.
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No.408609
>>408607
i was considering gold or silver sharpie depending on the terrain. gold for outdoors, silver for indoors generally.
>>408608
I'm not a very skilled painter, I think I can manage the simple techniques in DM scotty and some other videos on youtube. Unless painting stone tiles is easier than I'm imagining it is.
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No.408621
>>362905
any chance of another Gondola production run?
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No.408657
Is there any setup that's superior to a vinyl grid with props and terrain?
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No.408784
YouTube embed. Click thumbnail to play.
Does anyone make characters/environments with a 3D printer? Looks like a cheap way to make your own tiles/walls. With an FDM printer using PLA plastic, seems like an easy/fun way to make them. All you need is to print them, and then paint if you want to. Problem is getting the design, probably have to buy designs people made on the internet if you don't have the skill to make good, quick designs.
Prusa made a trailer showcasing some of the possibilities. I've looked into 3D printing this weekend and seems the best choice is either the Prusa i3 mk3 at $750, or the Ender at a cheap Chinese manufactured price of $250.
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No.410394
YouTube embed. Click thumbnail to play.
Melee weapon forging belongs here.
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No.410398
>>408621
Not right now, but I want to get back to it at some point. I don't have enough time or much of a work area at the moment and I have no idea when I'll be getting either of those things back.
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No.410432
>>408784
3D Printing is still kinda floating at that level where you'd need to weigh the costs. You can find some printers in the under-$500 range, but the time and effort that goes into tweaking, fine tuning, and configuring the machine, even if it's pre-assembled. Then there's the cost of materials, the cost of STL files, potential costs for slicer programs if you want to buy one of the better ones instead of using a free one, cost sunk on failed or badly configured prints, and the big one: storage and workspace.
3d printing is kind of a crafty hobby unto itself, which means you'll be needing more than just the machine itself. Kind of like getting into wargaming, you need to buy more than just the minis and the rulebook. You also need tools and adhesives to assemble and customize your dudes, you need paints, you need a place where you can spray down and prime, and possibly air brush some stuff, you need somewhere to leave them while they dry, so nothing knocks them over. With 3D printing, you're looking at all of that, plus you sometimes need an undisturbed area that can be left alone for dozens of hours, sometimes, and preferably kept in a climate controlled area, because room temperature will affect your prints.
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No.411083
>buy some sample wargaming terrain online
>like the look of it, figure it might work for my RPG game whenever the players are fighting outside
>order some more to give it a real test
>order is delayed for a week
>then two weeks
>then three
>what the fucking fuck is going on?
>finally get an email from them
>they threw in some extra terrain they fucked up on the last order because they're closing for good
>go look at the website
>it's for sale at the low price of $10,000 and was open for 21 years
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No.414805
>>410432
Provided one has all that, does anyone on here know some good resources/have experience with printing? So far I'm using Cura and an Ender printer (modified somewhat) but I have access to a Prusa as well. The main problem that I've run into so far is that while the parts of the model that don't have supports turn out just fine, really smooth, etc, there's still to much stringing/removing the supports is a pain in the ass that fucks up some of the smaller bits. I'll try and post some pics when I can later
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No.415359
>>414805
I have experience with 3D printing, but not too much with FDM printing. Stringing as I've researched is a common issue with FDM printing, especially on cheaper printers. There's no way to fix that unless you change temps of the nozzle, I think its running slightly hot so it strings out as the nozzle moves x-y. I was wanting to get the Prusa mk 3 i3, stringing isn't as bad on that.
If you want finer feature details (x-y plane), you can get a smaller nozzle diameter, but this will greatly increase build time and you have to be sure to set the settings correctly. Also setting layer height to too small of a value will result in diminishing effectiveness, and exponentially longer build times.
If you design your model properly supports should not be near small features, or try to make those overhanging features (like a nose) not so long. Getting to know the limitations your printer can do will better help you make less mistakes. https://www. thingiverse.com/thing:2656594/makes This is an overhang test, in the middle there's a bridge with far supports and thin features. You can see how well your printer does in certain scales with it. Use that as a base line for if you can delete having a support in a spot.
Maybe there's a better way to remove supports, maybe melt it with a tip, or snip leaving a nub on and then file it down.
Again, if you are building models (like characters), then move from FDM to SLA printing (though much more expensive). The material is a liquid resin and a laser creates the layers. With this you can have finer details. Generally resins are stiffer so you won't need as many supports as FDM.
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No.417805
>>359184
Make sure your gambesons are thick enough.
Bonus: https://imgur.com/gallery/wkV4fTG
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No.417824
>>417805
>wearing a corset on the outside
>Wearing a TIGHT corset one the OUTSIDE over mail
Fool deserved worse than some indentations.
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No.417837
>>417824
What's weird to me is that she is wearing belts, which as opposed to just hanging on her hips, could have been at her waist, emphasizing her shape replacing the corset.
But yeah, it's like she got the researched that one might wear armor over the chainmail, but didn't want to make it.
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No.418612
>>417805
Bruh you're supposed to wear padding under the chainmail. It's not supposed to be on bare skin. The chainmail deflects an edged weapon and the padding helps absorb the impact (chainmail alone does almost nothing against that).
>>408605
Look at that guy's videos for his tilescapes design. If you just make a stamp out of foam it's easy as shit to put a grid on stuff.
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No.418661
>>418612
>the impact (chainmail alone does almost nothing against that).
the chainmail keeps the edged weapon from cutting through the padding.
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No.418670
>>418661
My chainmail protects my padding from edged weapons, but my padding protects my chainmail from edged weapons. I don't understand what's going on over there. Who's the real hero?
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No.418678
>>418670
Chainmail protects padding and you from the edge.
Padding protects you from the impact of a fairly heavy metal object hitting your body.
Neither is particularly effective without the other, but because people want armor that's form fitting or because you don't see the padding on chainmail, most people think you'd just wear chainmail on bare skin or over some underclothes.
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