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File: 02b1a99ab3dcec2⋯.jpg (15.52 KB, 257x193, 257:193, cmore.jpg)

 No.4143

In these uncertain times it is clear to reasonable citizens that food must be planted soon for the winter. If the ground is prepared in July august planting will be easy.

Spinach, Cabbage, Leeks, Parsnips, Spring Onions, Onions, Garlic, Arugula, and many more.

Grow like Able but ready for Cain

____________________________
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 No.4145

File: ed99d4e1817b31e⋯.jpg (174.3 KB, 960x895, 192:179, dont_make_me_plant_grapes.jpg)

Composting helps. Everyone should develop a connection to the land

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 No.4147

File: 44f0e348e27b153⋯.jpg (490.66 KB, 1920x1080, 16:9, seymour_i.jpg)

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 No.4155

>>4143

Able was a shepherd, you goof. Cain was a vegan faggot whose offering displeased the Lord Most High.

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 No.4169

Thanks for posting this ! Just today I bent my back into labour working the soil. Built half of a soil sifting system and put it to test, filled up about half a 55 gal drum with well sifted soil. But it's just a frame I have to manually shake over a wheelbarrow. Need to find some small but stiff springs and another frame to mount it on so it will be nice and shakeable. The plan is to mix the sifted soil with compost 50/50 and fill raised bed frames with.

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 No.4364

File: 4a9cd1bf1c3882f⋯.jpg (75.11 KB, 900x1011, 300:337, dangum_goats.jpg)

>>4155

my mistake, I'm not really familiar with those stories.

I guess I should have said, Grow like cain and put up fences to keep the agents of desertification out.

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 No.4365

>>4169

>raised bed frames with.

why do people do raised beds instead of digging into the soil? I understand living in a city or town with pipes everywhere but in the country?

Also, it is rough on the back but I would suggest continuing to sift by hand. you will need the core strength.

What will you plant for winter?

I plan mostly cabbage but I am pretty sure this will be a very cold winter.

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 No.4367

>>4365

I dunno, but near any house made before about 1975 the soil has a fair chance of lead contamination. Also, with a whole lot of newer houses, they've backfilled the property with shitty clay fill dirt. From a productivity standpoint alone, you're better off building raised beds that will have the soil you want and also drain properly.

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 No.4410

File: a791e91f429193c⋯.jpg (298.15 KB, 736x736, 1:1, started_out.jpg)

>>4367

or you could condition the existing soil with compost, wood ash, peat moss, and ground bone. It breaks my heart to see those gardeners warping a perfectly good 2"x6"

regarding productivity, if you dig 18" down into the soil and condition that soil mass your production with me much better than using board. and that controlling for the fact that most board users use them incorrectly.

In a drought the board will not hold moisture and in a downpour will lose soil.

but, its a free country.

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 No.4411

>>4410

*with me

will be

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 No.4638

>>4365

>why do people do raised beds instead of digging into the soil?

with raised beds the mass of soil will be warmer which is important for spring/fall. It's also a good way to control your growing area particularly when importing soil which is I'm doing 50%.

The soil I have to work with is shit quality, lots of rocks in it, pretty tough clay. There are 2 ft limestone boulders just a few inches below the sod in some places. So what I'm doing is, digging down 6 to 10 inches and sifting as much soil as I can, the rocks, tough clods, bits of sod and roots get thrown back in the trench and I use that as fill to try and level it out (I'm also on a pretty steep hill). Added a wheelbarrow load of mulch too as the sifted fill wasn't enough. The sifted soil I'll mix about 50/50 with composted manure/wood chips and will pile back on the leveled bed.

>>4410

>or you could condition the existing soil with compost, wood ash, peat moss, and ground bone. It breaks my heart to see those gardeners warping a perfectly good 2"x6"

The wood I'm planning on using is actually all scrap, either already on the lot of this shitty rental house or scavenged from a construction site dumpster. So I actually am conditioning the existing soil, moving the fines upward and mixing with additives as you suggest whilst leaving the rocks and sod as a foundation.

>it is rough on the back but I would suggest continuing to sift by hand. you will need the core strength.

With a more mechanized sifting apparatus I'll be working just as hard, but will be able to process more tons/hr of soil. If I wasn't doing this I would have had to buy compost thats pre-mixed with topsoil which would be too heavy for my truck to move, and more costly

>What will you plant for winter?

Was planning on turnips, potatoes, kale or other brassicas, spinach, beets, maybe carrots. Part of the idea with the soil sifting and raised beds is I want nice deep soil with good tilth for epic root crops.

>regarding productivity, if you dig 18" down into the soil and condition that soil mass your production with me much better than using board. and that controlling for the fact that most board users use them incorrectly.

I would do that if I could dig down 18", I'd be deep into subsoil and limestone boulders by that point.

If I didn't have a frame to pile my good soil in it would spill out and I'd be wasting some. And it would erode easier.

Maybe I'll post some pics of my site and the WIP sifter when I get back over there

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 No.4639

>>4410

same guy as what just posted, afterthought on amendments: I can get big 3 ft^3 bales of vermiculite at the local feed store, thinking about using that in the mix as well. So sifted native topsoil, mediocre quality composted manure, some wood ash and potentially vermiculite are what I have to work with. Do you have experience designing the best soil mix? Wondering if it'd need the verm to loosen it up, it might be a bit too dense otherwise.... and I need the verm anyway for growing mushrooms.

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 No.4643

>>4145

Just eat spaghetti

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 No.4678

File: 5ce3cebcdf60bae⋯.jpg (93.99 KB, 540x360, 3:2, Shiitake.jpg)

>>4639

>>4638

sounds tough. I see your need for frames.

Best soil mix I can't say. Have you considered keeping the " the rocks, tough clods, bits of sod and roots" out to make a berm and replacing that volume with half rotted branches and twigs and leaves?

I have had good results though you do want to make sure you don't foster termites.

It seems with the incline and rocks in the soil you may not have easy access to leaves and fallen branches but if you can get it for free worms love damp dead leaves.

Compost is great but so is worm poop.

have you considered logs as the substrate for mushrooms? I have heard about sealing the ends of a 4 foot section of log with wax and then drilling a row of holes in the side and putting spores in. it was through the ag extension office. not sure if the picture is the same thing,

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 No.4680

File: bdee284d7ea5c61⋯.jpg (26.64 KB, 518x400, 259:200, riddle_me_this.jpg)

>>4643

where will the tomatoes, garlic, and basil come from?

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 No.4681

>>4680

Buy it haha

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 No.4685

>>4678

well yes I did actually think of this, being aware of the practice of "hugelkultur". that's why I ended up putting a good amount of mulch down as a base layer and to help level it. I do have quite a lot of leaves, branches etc, there's patches of woods adjacent to the property. Already collected a lot of leaf litter for composting.

The problem with using all mulch/twigs/branches as my subsoil is, it would settle considerably as the wood composts, perhaps unevenly, and i don't think i have much use for a berm. Would rather bury that sod deep anyway so it won't try and come back up.

I actually have a worm bin too, full of red wriggler worms, which I feed kitchen scraps. Pretty slow going though, 4 months in and still working thru the 1st tray. It's the stacked/rotating bin design. Need to read up on vermiculture, try and figure out a good way to scale that up. Because worm shit is great compost. Nice and bioactive.

As far as the mushroom logs go: I'm already doing oysters on straw. The problem with growing on logs like in the pic (those are shiitakes and yeah thats what you think it is), it takes a year or more before they fruit.

I actually worked fairly recently on a farm where this guy did a couple acres of intensively grown vegetables, oyster mushrooms on straw, and shiitakes on logs. We inoculate the logs in the spring months usually April thru early June. They are soaked for a few days and then stacked outside under shade and will produce mushrooms the next spring. You don't inject spores into the logs, but rather mushroom mycelium. Generally as either sawdust spawn or colonized dowels.

The reason I don't have my own logs is, I'm focusing my efforts on making sawdust production blocks for indoor cultivation of the woodloving species eg. shiitakes, lion's mane, reishi etc. Reason is much faster turnaround, 2 - 3 months from inoculation to fruiting vs an entire year.

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 No.4687

>>4685

i planted 30 potatoes in the spring. each potato can make like 10 new potatoes, so i’m going to have 300 potatoes in a few weeks. also potatoes confirmed as foot fetish best vegetable

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 No.4690

File: f3f78887821d1e2⋯.jpg (114.71 KB, 600x900, 2:3, not_bad_bing_search_not_ba….jpg)

>>4685

In this discussion I have found I don't know my terms very well. I thought "french intensive" was what "hugelkultur" is.

Regarding the settling you can turn the soil again but I think your system sounds excellent as is.

what are sawdust production block and what kind of wood do you need sawdust from? I may have access to sawdust soon. Sweet Gum, Poplar, with some oak and beech.

>>4687

beware of potato bugs, potato blight, etc. also beware the dangers of monoculture. make sure to plant some onions and kale for winter.

you are right about the multiplication. make sure to hold some back as seed potatos.

>>4681

I make-a da frowny face at-a you :(

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 No.4693

>>4690

i live in an agricultural village so the potatoes are just to fight erosion of my retaining wall. i probably wont even dig them up unless some kind of food shortage happens. can potatoes be kept a full winter?

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 No.4719

File: 2884c6bae1c9d8c⋯.jpg (480.24 KB, 1600x1200, 4:3, azure.jpg)

>>4693

depends on rainfall/dampness around potatoes.

I might dig them up and plant another crop or take the risk of rot and wait until spring to replant.

sweet potatoes can be a good replacement crop and if you start them inside you can plant them the day you dig your regular potatoes. just turn the soil a bit, add some compost and plant the sweet potatoes.

can you grow blue berries in your area? If you have a lot of rain blueberries can produce a lot of fruit for little work.

you can alternate varieties so even in a dry year you get some yield.

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 No.4743

>>4693

how does the agricultural village work? everyone works their own plot and pool labor to build buildings? How do you handle a person who won't help others?

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 No.4762

>>4743

Everyone grows their own stuff then bring it to the coop to sell.

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 No.4770

>>4762

>Able brings lamb chops

>Cain brings kale salad

<somehow it happens the same as last time

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 No.4816

>>4762

coop customers are locals or tourists?

Do blueberries grow well? they are a good crop and here you can sell picked berries for 4-6 dollars a pint.

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 No.4817

File: 360f5f12be0b6aa⋯.png (640.26 KB, 910x617, 910:617, db9e9kq_ce664e23_c513_46e0….png)

>>4770

I don't like meat and I'm vegetarian so I can't eat lamb therefore ask able if there are any vegan gluten free options

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 No.4818

>>4816

The coop is 99.999% locals, but of course there arent any rules preventing tourists. Actually have never seen a tourist in there but its not impossible. Lots of blueberries at the coop. Not a lot of land for grazing animals nearby so meat at the coop is usually limited to fish and chicken eggs. Proper beef, chicken, pork etc is bought at a grocery store or butcher like anywhere else.

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