d26d42 No.586407 [Last50 Posts]
A hub for people with a taste for knives.
Will answer questions and give insight on knives, since I've been collecting for a long time , using knives in the outdoors and practicing knife-related martial arts.
Will not bother with the retarded sub-types and mall ninjas and teens like those found on cuckchan.
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d26d42 No.586409
I specialize in military / survival / "tactical" fixed blade knives, but anything goes. I've had many different knives from many different brands, and have a wide experience with knife media. My oppinions are based on my experience and differ from what JewTube tries to market you.
The only knives I'm not interested in are the african nigger abominations, and the only information I'm not sharing is where to find special knives at special prices. However I'm a regular person, if I found the places you can find them as well.
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e9563d No.586439
>>586407
Is there any type of knife you believe is best suited inside a first aid kit?
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1cd7e6 No.586461
Alright I got one for you. I do tree removal and climb trees via ropes often. I want a good fully serrated knife between 3 and 4 inches long edge (bit longer may be acceptable) with a good sheath that I can strap to my harness. Obviously a fixed blade that can cut rope quickly in case I fuck up and need to drop something. Got a really cheap Condor high carbon straight edge that I've put a razor edge on to do the job now but I would like something that will reliably saw through rope under tension or not.
Any suggestions?
Also bright colors are acceptable.
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70aa33 No.586488
>>586409
> the only information I'm not sharing is where to find special knives at special prices
you are such a fucking braggart. i couldnt give less of a shit about how much of a knife autist you are.
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a5f50d No.586491
Would there be any advantage to an Anglo-Saxon seax style blade on a bayonet/general purpose military knife? I ask because the Bowie knife has a broadly similar shape so I wonder if there is any utility there.
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82d12f No.586508
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d26d42 No.586509
>>586461
If I wanted to make absolutely sure that in the rare eventuality that I'd need to cut rope that rope should be cut yes or yes I'd go for a serrated Spyderco Aqua Salt with a yellow handle. Jumpaster and Jumpmaster 2 are also options, but they're heavier and more expensive. The Aqua Salt is the better tool / work knife.
If you dont want to spend a lot and just want the knife for emergencies, then a plain edge Morakniv will cut as well, in carbon preferably, and there's also a rope cutting version.
For canyons and climbing I carry a Spyderhawk, which is a hawkbill folder, and I'm a collector and on the spectrum, so Spydercos are more valued by me. However the Morakniv is the affordable common sense choice.
Both are great utilitarian tool knives, and both will grow on you if you like knives.
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d26d42 No.586512
>>586439
If something public and static nothing or the cheapest crap. Maybe just razors.
If it's your personal first aid kit I wouldnt include a knife insiide, or maybe a Havalon folder with extra scalpel replacements.
>>586491
Stabs better than something round I guess. Many knife styles are due to culture and related to time and geographic region, without any objectively superior or inferior qualities that can be measured in a scale of "progress" so to speak.
A bowie will slice better because of the curve, I guess, and maybe chop better. A seax is straight, but for the use a knife should have it's ok.
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1cd7e6 No.586529
>>586509
I'll take a look at the Spyderco, already have an Endura Wave that I love so I'm pretty sure the Aqua Salt will do nicely. Thank you buddy.
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c68ee8 No.586686
Is there a more rugged folder then the Emerson Folders?
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d2bf42 No.586718
Buy chinese flippers with D2 steel. If you go for made by TwoSun for like $50 you will get knives superior to any production knife you can buy from western manufacturers. If you go for the ones selling for $20 or so they're still pretty quality but you might have problems with the axle screw dunno the actual term for it backing off from the repeated action of opening the knife.
all imo tbh but the knives I've bought from SpyderCo, Benchmade, CRKT and the like, even for upwards of $200 are pretty much either of the same level of quality or alot worse quality than what I've gotten with quality chink knives. SpyderCo especially I've found to be junk more often than not. Their back-lock mechanism is always shakey which is ridiculous because mechanically it should give the blade a very firm lockup; I think it's from poor manufacturing.
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7da428 No.586752
>>586686
Plenty. Emersons are neither tough not rugged.
The Emerson lock is laughably weak and bad, the steel was ok in the 1990s. Of Emerson I only like the designs. The build is total shit and so are the prices.
>>586718
I'm mostly a collector, I dont give a shit for chinkshit or high tech low drag folders, but Two Sun is interesting.
Spyderco has many clones, and all my spydercos have solid locks and no play whatsoever. Maybe you got a clone, a bad one, or dindnt adjust the pivot screw properly.
As for the prices, it has to do with YouTube and forums raising demand for knives. The bubble will soon burst and many makers will fuck off forever.
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87ad98 No.586791
What kind of knife can I carry and not get into trouble if I get searched? I was thinking about something like pic related but perhaps you lads got some better ideas.
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6d2fb0 No.586793
>>586791
Depending on country or state, the razor would be out of the question. I get away with carrying knives most of the time because i say they are for work. Granted, they are, as an electrician has to skin wire.
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c68ee8 No.586834
>>586752
so what do u recommend as a tough rugged folder?
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d26d42 No.586875
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1cd7e6 No.586905
>>586793
I carry an east German AK-74 bayonet for stump/root clean up. Can't get away with carrying that without odd looks unless I forget to take off my saw chaps (which has happened numerous times).
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b86f0b No.586915
>>586686
Cold Steel's folders
look at how deep that lockbar reaches into the blade tang
I like the American Lawman
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637937 No.587356
I was checking out a few knife under 50 bucks… I was considering to get either a Glock 78 or a S&W "Search and Rescue" Tanto, both around $45.
Is there anything worth more for the same price?
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33c946 No.587477
>>587356
For what exactly? I'd say Mora 2000. It's good for lots of things, you can cut kielbasa, you can cut wood, you can cut just about anything. Not good for batoning, but it's for fags anyway.
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44907c No.587691
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ea6dab No.587704
>>586875
That list isn't very complete.
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ea6dab No.587770
Look at this shit. You see how the unlocking lever is a stud on the side of the grip, instead of a lever on the inside of the blade recess? Why don't more knife companies make their folders like this? It's much faster than those frame lock bars you get on most folders, and unlike those you don't have to put your fingers across the knife's arc of travel to unlock it. It's not more expensive; picrelated costs 40 shekels and I've seen it go for less. It's an objectively superior system, yet most folders don't use it and I can't imagine why.
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a819aa No.587790
>>587477
last i checked this one is ridiculusly overpriced compared to alternatives that mora has, some of which are even better like that one with 3mm wide blade, you can chop rocks with it
t.has 2 moras
also i dont recommend opinel. is meme shit honestly and only reason why you would get one i can imagine is your pride of being french or something
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c75670 No.587793
I won't even ask if "tanto" point is a meme, because it was invented by fucking Cold Steel. But does it work?
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e48fa3 No.587796
>>587793
>does it work
Depends on what you're trying to do.
Stab straight through some thick barrier? Yup.
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e48fa3 No.587801
>>587793
Cold Steels folding knives are very good these days.
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acc904 No.587815
>>587793
That's the "American Tanto" shape. Yes, it works because sharpened prybars dont cut well anyways. However it is a lie that the tip is stronger. It can be in fact weaker due to the more acute angle.
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c75670 No.587816
HookTube embed. Click on thumbnail to play.
>>587796
So then, what happens if you add sawteeth to the back of it? Will you get a knife that is excellent at stabbing through aramit, can be used to pry open things, has a pommel that can be used as a hammer, and also function as a saw?
>>587801
I'll be honest, I'm not familiar with their products, all I know is that they are kind of over-the-top when it comes to advertising.
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acc904 No.587818
>>587770
Framelocks are simpler, backlocks easier to clean.
That's Benchmade's approach as well and it's more prone to failure due to rust or dirt. That's why.
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acc904 No.587819
>>587704
The knife spectrum is so wide it is pointless for me to say yes or no or to recommend one random knife that is good, you need to be more specific.
Glock knives are shit and are bought by armies in the 4-12$ range. They are too thick to cut and too narrow to chop. They dont do anything well. Handle isnt grippy, point is blunt or broken from the factory. Angle is like 30 degrees + per side, etc…..
S&W is chinashit. Don't buy knives from gun brands, save for the higher end ones like Wilson Combat that have agreements with high tier brands.
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b86f0b No.587882
>>587816
they have the most secure lock in the industry, the "Tri-ad."
they use modern high-carbide steels now, so the edge retention is great
they use solid g-10, so the knives are relatively light but very strong
midwayusa runs good deals on their knives from time to time
https://www.midwayusa.com/s?targetLocation=%2F_%2FN-0%2B4294957290%3FNp%3D2%26Nr%3DAND%2528p_visible%253A1%252Ccustomertypeid%253A1%2529%26Nrpp%3D48%26Ntpc%3D1%26Ntpr%3D1%26Ntt%3Dcold%2Bsteel%2Bxhp&userItemsPerPage=48&persistedItemsPerPage=0
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34ee4b No.587957
Anyone have any good recommendations for a loaner knife? Something cheap that I won't mind letting other people use.
>>587790
I got an Opinel as a gift. Is it really that bad?
One thing I noticed is generally lukewarm reactions when I pull it out, whereas when I pull out a black tactical-looking CRKT people either go "HO SHIT HE'S GOT A KNOIFE" or "HO SHIT THAT'S A SWEET KNOIFE".
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2dd9bf No.587984
What's the general consensus about titanium alloys for swords?
Straight-up titanium would be too soft, like how aluminum is. But we make gun parts out of 7075, which is aluminum with a bunch of stuff added. Or meld multiple metals in layers, like the famed japanese katana.
As a neat extra feature, titanium is moderately easy to anodize into a variety of bright and interesting colors, and is slightly (a lot?) more resistant to rusting if you leave blood on it overnight.
I'm not hoping to go full Blade, or recreate the four foot long nodachi. Just something about three and a half feet total, full handle tang hand-and-a-half handled slashing+stabbing tool, like the "ninja" swords.
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d2bf42 No.587986
>>587957
opinels are pretty good and that lukewarm reaction to you deploying one is one of the reasons why. its completely inoffensive so you wont have any trouble with people for using it. their carbon steel is very easy to sharpen and can take a very good edge. it wont stay that sharp for long though, both because of the properties of the steel and the fact that the edge is interfacing with the wooden handle when closed. also if you have a chance to pick between a few different ones, try to ensure that you get one with a straight blade–the blades being bent is a fairly common issue with them
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34ee4b No.588004
HookTube embed. Click on thumbnail to play.
>>587984
There's a nickel/titanium alloy called SM-100 that for a time was a popular "super metal" used to make blades, but I haven't seen anything about it recently. When properly heat treated it's about as hard as 440C stainless steel but is lighter and has the corrosion resistance of titanium. NASA did some tests on it's cousin material, Nitinol 60, and found that it makes for a great ball bearing. Does that mean it makes for a great blade? Tests I could find online have been mixed.
Nitinol 60 is notoriously difficult to manufacture, but SM-100 is supposed to have fixed that problem. Only one company makes SM-100 and they always make it in small batches, so you can just take a guess at the cost and how difficult it is to get your hands on it.
I've heard promising things about carbonized titanium, but I don't know much about it.
Like you said pure titanium is no good for a blade due to it's softness, but it's also not very good for slashing weapons because it's too light. When you're cutting something you want weight. Executioner's swords would have no distal taper to give added weight and make it easier to cut off a disgraced nobles head.
Vid related is some people who did go full Blade and made a sword with a 100% titanium blade. Probably some useful information if you are making a titanium sword.
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acc904 No.588006
Well, the thread went to shit sooner than expected.
So long, mallninja faggots
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637937 No.588017
>>588006
The thread went to shitters since the begging, with your reddit-spaced OP and nigger behavior.
See:
>>586409
>Will not bother with the retarded sub-types and mall ninjas and teens like those found on cuckchan.
>I'm not sharing is where to find special knives at special prices
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acc904 No.588018
>>588017
And i was right, since all you did is ask generic nigger questions and mallninja bullshit like the cheap ignorant plebs you are.
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ea6dab No.588019
>>588018
Are there any preferred non-tacticool finishes/surface treatments to put on knives? My BK7 came with a black oxide finish and I'm of the understanding that's not very durable.
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acc904 No.588022
This is not a democratic thread nor I consider plebs and no - taste niggers as equals. Im here for those knife ethusiasts with questions or cravings for knowledge that i can answer as a collector and enthusiast myself. The only reply to generic reddit tier nigger questions or mallninja shit is belittlement at best or just a lack of reply.
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acc904 No.588023
>>588019
Depends on what you mean by tacticool and what you want a coating for (or lack thereof)
Assuming what you seek is rust protection, I would divide them into the good coatings and the good non-coated finishes.
Gunkote (KG coating) is the absolute best coating for knives. Durable and thin. Chris Reeve knives, Winkler Knives, Spartan Blades, etc… are examples. It's a produc that's sprayed on and baked into the surface, popular with guns as well. The downside is that it may not be food safe.
The best non-coated finish for a carbon knife like the becker is mirror polish. The knife will slice better, be fairly protected from rust, and it won't smell (because some carbon steels smell like absolute shit).
Cerakote is shit, feels like wax or a crayon and wears out quick, staining everythin it touches. Fälkniven, Cold Steel are examples. It's popuar because it's easy to apply at home.
Sandpaper coating, like the one in ESEE knives, Beckers and BUSSE, the worst offender, is dogshit as well. It wears out ok, but it's like having sandpaper glued to the blade, and food and residue can be difficult to clean. BUSSE uses the same motherfucking coating as those "crackle finish" Zippo lighters.
I also dont recommend stonewashing carbon blades and forcing a patina if you want to touch food with it. It smells like shit and will make your food taste like rusty metal. The worst offender is Winkler Knives with their Caswell finish.
What you can realistically do and I recommend is use your knife with the coating, when it wears out, oil it, from time to time with food safe oils. If you want to get the coating off, strip it with a food safe compound or just sand it, then use MetalGlo to buff it to attain a polished finish.
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ea6dab No.588027
>>588023
>I also dont recommend stonewashing carbon blades and forcing a patina if you want to touch food with it. It smells like shit and will make your food taste like rusty metal. The worst offender is Winkler Knives with their Caswell finish.
Would gun-bluing the steel be bad for the same reason? It's also an oxidation process, but it doesn't form a "natural" patina.
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ea6dab No.588029
>>588027
To clarify, I mean "hot" bluing, not a DIY backyard cold blue.
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acc904 No.588037
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25ef96 No.588039
>>588037
Thanks fam, but I know how to Google. These forums only talk about "cold" bluing, which I know is far from ideal. I was asking about "hot" bluing, the shit done with boiling tanks of salts by professional gunmakers.
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acc904 No.588060
>>588039
As someone comments on the forum, hot bluing would be much better, but look if the heat treatment is not damaged by the high temperatures. Probably not.
Bluing is toxic though, dont eat food with it.
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d9df43 No.588062
>>588060
>Bluing is toxic though
What about cerakote? Either the c-series (air cure) or h-series (oven cure, but only about 300f)
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acc904 No.588064
>>588062
To make absolutely sure, I'd lurk in the Cliff Stamp forums, which are the best online source of actual knife related info.
Cerakote is toxic as well, as for how much more or what kind of toxicity, I dont know. I know though that cerakote will stain hard bread, cheese, and other hard foods, and that's what you eat.
For a coating I'd go for Gunkote, which is apparently food safe, and it's honestly the hardest wearing, thinnest and smoothest coating.
http://www.paintwerkz.com/site/services/refinishing/refinishing/
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9f33b0 No.588065
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4a9bc8 No.588066
>>588006
good riddance, fuck face
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ea6dab No.588096
>>588060
>Bluing is toxic though, don't eat food with it.
Some of what I've read indicates it's okay as long as you dry it properly afterwards and take a few other precautionary steps, but I'll be careful all the same. Gunkote does seem like the better option but I really like how bluing looks, so I'll likely go with that.
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7ea34c No.588108
>>588096
>thread about knives
>not a single combat knife
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b86f0b No.588117
>>588064
>Cliff Stamp
ironic, as Cliff Stamp views Cold Steel favorably
dumb kike
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cc79b3 No.588535
>>586409
if this is a high grade high carbon steel, you're looking at the best knife in this thread.
simple, non-coated fixed blades with a 90 degree backside and no serrations are going to be the best knives.
look for knives that are full tang, and not stainless steel, but I grade above that.
A heavy, long, balanced, bowie-style knife will be the best for any situation in the woods are a knife fight scenario
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cc79b3 No.588536
>>588535
ontario knife and other american knife companies that only sell to select redistribution outlets will give you the best steel, although will run you up price.
pound for pound, dollar for dollar, you can almost never go wrong on a decent investment on a knife.
a cheap 1$ knife will stay in your loadout, true, but a high carbon knife that holds an edge will stay razor sharp and strong over years of abuse.
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b86f0b No.588630
>>588535
ontario is pretty shit tbh
go ESEE
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ea6dab No.588670
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b2b7dc No.588681
>>588630
ESEE is pretty shit tbh
go BUSSE
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792ae0 No.588690
Check out this cheap piece of shit that only cost me 37 dollaridoos.
Feels nice in the hand, and the steel is something called 7Cr17MOV steel. It's sharp and has taken quite a beating without failure so far. It's far bigger than it looks in the picture.
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637937 No.588692
>>587477
>For what exactly?
I needed a general purpose knife, and ended up getting the Glock 78.
What I do not understand is why it could cost 45 bucks in Evropa, while being only 30 in the US, despite being produced in Austria.
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d2bf42 No.588695
>>588670
>pecker ever
gay tbh
>>588690
>7cr17mov
you could've bought a decent knife for $37 though
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b6c4c0 No.588723
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792ae0 No.588770
>>588695
>le high income high tax face
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b86f0b No.588791
>>588681
good but overpriced
>>588670
or ka-bar becker knives, good value in those
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ecaaeb No.589217
Thanks. I bought this once some years back and it's never really had a role. I prefer a shorter knife (BRKT Bravo 2 size) for camping/bushcraft/survival, folders for general utility, and dedicated hunting knives for hunting. My mil days are long behind me, but back then I had a Kabar. I think I bought this knife because of its similarity in size to a Kabar.
But as I said, it's never really had a role. Primarily because I don't know enough about knife design principles to understand what this knife's designer intended it for. Given OP's knife experience, what's this one for?
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688b03 No.589221
>>589217
Think you're missing a pic there.
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ecaaeb No.589229
>>589221
Yes I'm having some phoneposting difficulties. I will try from home tonight.
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ecaaeb No.589237
>>589229
And now it freaking works.
Anyway the knife is a Swamp Rat Ratmandeux LE.
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ea6dab No.589276
>>589237
That's a good-looking blade. What's the hardware that's holding your grips to the tang, rivets? Was going to replace the bolts on my BK7 with stainless ones, but if I could I'd replace them with a setup like yours.
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b2b7dc No.589336
>>589229
>>589217
That one is for fun or military, in a position that uses knives often for various chores including non-cutting chores and isnt very mobile.
When I'm on expeditions and travels as a client, not as an organizer, I like to take one such knife with me (stout, thick, "excessive"). It has come handy many times. This BUSSE saved me and my companions when the guide didnt even have a folding knife with him and nobody carried an axe. It spit the logs to make fire at night.
I also prefer knives in the 4-5.5 inch range, six if it's light, so in my oppinion It's an emergency do-it-all knife, take it when you go outdoors for extended periods of time and dont trust the people your're travelling with in regards of gear and inventory organization. You know your knife is not going to fail and that's a very motivating thing.
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1889d9 No.589345
How are ceramic knives? They make folding ceramic knives apparently.
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69dcb0 No.589550
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7009ba No.589576
>>588681
>>589336
>busse
pic related every time
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b86f0b No.589578
>>589550
>cold steel
good
>kershaw
junky
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ecaaeb No.590034
>>589276
Yes, they are rivets.
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7d040b No.590042
>>589550
That's a big knife
How do you carry that?
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69dcb0 No.590078
>>590042
Stock sheath attached to belt and paracord to anchor it across the leg.
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ea6dab No.590329
So Geissele makes knives, apparently, under the moniker (((Abraham and Moses))), with a price tag to match. Steel is Carpenter PD1, not really sure how that compares in practical terms to 1095 in a knife blade.
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3f0bd1 No.590451
>>588723
MMMmmmmhhhh. I have the Titanium skeletonised handle version and I have to say the flipper is satisfying as fuck, every time.
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3f0bd1 No.590452
>>589345
Good for food preparation and not much else I'd say. I'd always be worried about the blade just breaking on me.
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3f0bd1 No.590454
Anyway I got one of these like 2 years ago, had to sharpen it out of the box, but I still hate it. The leather handle is still dry and nasty even after like, 8 coats of dubbin and the blade scratched the [also very dry] sheath. Should I try and sell it and get a ka-bar? The ka-bars look so much sexier and in general just higher quality.
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b2b7dc No.590505
>>590329
Knife looks promising and is already on my list but I dont care for the sheath, which doubles the price. A simple, quality kydex or aftermarket sheath would have sufficed. I think the way the sheath works and the aluminium are retarded choices. It also looks heavy for what it is. Too much handle mass / blade ratio.
As for Abraham and Moses, It sounds cool, like something out of a Metal Gear game, and Geissele has a great reputationand Geissele has a great reputation, but I dont care for the "holier than thou" attitude these "operator" tacticlol products have. I have three winklers and they're shit for the price. The operator meme is a shit scam.
As for the rape prices, I'd wait to see if they change the sheath and the price goes down, and if they succeed they may mass produce or make the knife again, which will devalue the prices.
The tacticlol business will burst sooner than later anyways, I think they're late to the party.
Never ever feel bad if you ever miss that special bit of kit you wanted. It's not so special. If you look at their other knife it's standard as fuck.
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ea6dab No.590527
>>590505
>As for Abraham and Moses, It sounds cool
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e56d36 No.590591
>>589336
>>586407
I'm looking for a pocket knife, most of the shit I got is $10/30 lowe's/supermarket-tier junk and I want something more robust, something with a good feel. As for style, as long as I can avoid looking like a gigantic edgelord when I use it, I have zero cares.
budget is ideally up to $60 but if it's any more expensive, tell me your experience with it and why someone who usually uses it as a box cutter should buy it.
>>587957
>>587986
That's interesting, everyone I've ever shown my opinel thought it was a sweet knife.
Speaking of opinels, how do I take one apart and put it back together? my carbon opinel's got some rust on the metal that attaches to the lever, the idea of it rusting inside there is making my autism flare.
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ea6dab No.590596
>>590591
It sounds like you're talking about a single-bladed folder rather than a full on multitool so I'll go with my recommendation on that: SOG Flash II, with a straight (non-serrated) blade. I like it because, for only 40 shekels or so, you get a nice grip, a decently hard blade that holds an edge reasonably well, and all the features that I think are "necessary" on an EDC folder. Specifically, those are
-thumb stud for tacticool one-handed opening
-spring assist for tacticool high speed opening
-unlocking lever is on the handle, not inside the pocket where the blade goes (I have autistic paranoia about closing a blade on my thumb)
-a pocket clip
There's also a "safety" control that keeps the blade from opening, but I've never seen a need to use it, maybe you will. There are better knives out there with this featureset, but they're also a good deal more expensive.
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7d040b No.590598
>>590591
Kershaw Barricade 8650
Holds edge very nicely. Also fits good in the hand. Used it a ton yet the edge still hasn't gone dull. Window breaker, seatbelt cutter, pocket clip and assisted speed opening. Paid 35 euros for it, but from the review it's 27 dollars in the US.
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5e84d0 No.590743
What does /k/ think of Puukos? Should I buy one?
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a4a66b No.591794
>>590743
Yes. Puukkos are great worker blades. No reason not to get one.
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3173bf No.593096
What is your favorite bushcraft knife?
i like becker knives from ontario and they are also ka-bar but i wish they didn't put that coating on the knife but the steel is actually pretty delicate (dents easily)
and i like ur 2nd image. what set is that.
I luv knives. dont have any guns tho.
if you are REALLY into bushcraft, youll probably find this tom brown knife atractive.
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dc6ddb No.593110
>>593096
Dont do bushcraft, I think it's gay. I hike, climb and go places, not fuck around in a spot in the woods.
Right now I use a first gen Winkler Hunting Knife with tribal handle. Not great but I like it. I have a Mora Military, rebranded Mora Viking or some shit, that'd be ideal for bushcraft.
The second picture is a custom Winkler Hunting Knife. Very cool but grind is shit, super thick edge, no tip at all and sheath is not great.
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dc6ddb No.593111
>>593096
TOPS is highly gay and mostly shit. They stole the Tracker design from David Beck
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6718bf No.593268
What kind of knife would /k/ recommend a poorfag get as a general purpose field knife?
And what would /k/ recommend for those who aren't poorfags, but who can't throw $200-300+ at a knife?
I've got a Buck 112 Ranger at the moment, but I am looking for a good fixed blade.
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b86f0b No.593269
>>593268
just bite the bullet and get an ESEE
go through Amazon, you can get an ESEE 4 with a sheath for $100 on there.
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a4a66b No.593317
>>593096
TOPS fucked up the blade shape (and corresponding edge geometry of the plain edge) on their Tracker. Others have reground it to be a good cutter, but one should not have to do something so drastic with a $300 knife in order to get it in working condition. YMMV.
>>593111
The original! Nice.
>>593268
For a field knife, there are a lot of great options that come cheap. I'd recommend the Becker BK9, anything from Ontario,
If you're a khukuri guy, you might like Himalayan Imports on BladeForums. They have deals over there that fall under $100 USD, and the KLVUK in particular is a steal.
For more mid-sized knives, the Gerber Strongarm is also a great purchase for cheap. Reviewers on YT passed this knife amongst each other and beat the shit out of it, and it never failed. Mora is another great choice, especially if you like scandi blades. ESEE, too, as another mentioned. Great heat treat. The ESEE 5 in particular is fantastic, as is the Izula.
Speaking a little more generally, though, if you can get a full tang knife at an acceptable blade length with a quality heat treat, you should be fine. Stay away from mystery steel or anything made in China. Good luck!
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2a26f4 No.596947
I'm looking for a basic switchblade. No larpy stuff, preferably in the $50 range, just a knoife that can duel purpose between utilitarian use as well as self defense if needed. I would go down to a store and buy one off the shelves but clearly I'm no knife autist so I want to know if you guys have anything specific to recommend.
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ea6dab No.596959
>>596947
>a knoife that can duel purpose between utilitarian use as well as self defense if needed
A switchblade is shit for both of those things. A small fixed-blade knife will give you what you want. If you aren't able to carry a fixed blade knife for whatever reason, a traditional folder will serve you better than a switchblade. For self-defense, if you can't get a gun a collapsible baton is going to serve you better, especially if you don't have lots of training.
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2a26f4 No.596965
>>596959
You're probably right, but I briefly looked into it and it seems it's illegal to conceal carry a switchblade in a bunch of states that I'll be stopping in anyways. So, retconning my question, any folding knives you'd recommend? To clarify, reason I'm not going for a fixed knife is because being able to carry the thing in my pocket seems pretty important.
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ea6dab No.596973
>>596965
For a self-defense tool you can carry in your pocket that isn't a gun, I'd still suggest a collapsible baton–you get better reach, and it's much easier for an amatuer to be somewhat competent with a baton than a knife (stabbing someone requires getting close to them, and if you're not trained in knife fighting that kind of situation can turn against you very quickly). I would also guess there's less legislation against batons compared to knives (some places like Shitcongo regulate how long knife blades can be).
But, you asked for knoife recommendations, so I'll do my best to suggest those. If you're okay paying a premium, I'd go for one of the axis-lock knives from Benchmade. Probably a spear-point like the 495 Vector since you want the knife to have a secondary self-defense use.
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2a26f4 No.597006
>>596973
Will look into batons, and just telling me the words axis-lock and Benchmade alone gives me a good starting point. Thanks mate
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e7a86b No.597008
>>593317
Second the strong arm recommendation the sheath can be mounted to molle and have serrated as well as plain edge options.
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b2a332 No.597197
>>597006
That other anon's write up was excellent, but I feel I should add that collapsible batons might have legal issues in certain states. Here in VA last I checked they are completely illegal for civilians to use. I still got one shipped to my doorstep though lel
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3a6565 No.597288
Got me a gator fixed blade from gerber, and i was pleasantly surprised to see it was made in portland oregon. I thought they outsourced rhese days. Except the quality control was shite, one side is overground and the tip has heat marks. But i got into contact, and apparently all i have to do is send it back. Only have to pay it one way too, theyll pay the shipping back. Impressed with their customer service at any rate.
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3a6565 No.597294
And i have a sog folder as well, that i quite like. Good blade shape, and it holds an edge quite well. Good flat profile, ambidextrous pocket clip, and its spinelock as well, the only kind of locking mechanism i trust. The salute, if i recall correctly.
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2d9acc No.597303
I'd love me a Headhunter Rat Blade but the price is beyond what I can justify for the foreseeable future.
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a94cc3 No.597305
>>590454
I've got a KA-BAR with the synthetic grip and combo edge. I love it.
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b95c65 No.597312
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838c40 No.597317
Most of my collection, bottom row are Chinese fakes/copies
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13c521 No.597340
>>586407
Any good knifes for staby staby stuff with occasional slash? I was looking at the vietnam era wasp waist gerbers and FB commando knifes, but those are either china shit that wont stand abuse in a real life scenario, or way too expensive shit that you cant throw away when you make short work of your enemy. I wanted to buy something that will last, but when it breaks I wont cry.
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b6bfe1 No.597360
>>588630
Nothing wrong with okc stupid head.
>>590743
>i dont like having the use of my fingers
>the knife
Finnish people are crazy.
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d217fa No.597416
Do we have an infographic for knives like the one for handguns/rifles/shotguns?
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ea6dab No.597418
>>597416
There are a couple on the sticky, but they seem a bit dated.
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ea6dab No.597419
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a4a66b No.597507
>>597288
Sorry to hear you had a bad experience. Gerber's still a mixed bag, but their US-made gear typically has decent quality control these days.
Their machetes and other China-made blades, however, are fucking godawful and continue to embarrass the company.
>>597419
>>597418
I'm not crazy about the Knife Guy infographics. Most of these suggestions suck, and the rest is either bad info or common sense. Especially the green one.
Don't get me wrong, I get the intent behind them, and you did indeed post what someone asked for, but these fail at what they try to accomplish.
"Buy a sharpening stone and make sure the sheath is good" is common sense and doesn't need its own macro. People already think of these things before they come here. The guides don't mention important things like Rockwell scaling or blade geometry, stuff that people tend not to think about but need to know. Heat treat's another issue overlooked in these. Same with common alloys – your average Strelok isn't going to need to know all about HAP40 or ZDP189 (nor will he care), but considering that most of the shit he's going to find at the BX or Army Surplus is either 10-series high carbon, 440 stainless, S30V, 420HC, and the occasional VG-10 piece, he should probably know what these mean before he makes a purchase.
Yes, a noob isn't going to know a fucking thing about differential hardening or distal taper, but knowing what to look for with a list of quantifiable metrics is far more valuable information rather than listing a bunch of random knives (regardless of purpose in design) and saying, "here, buy this knife or one like it". That shows him a blade shape to hunt down, but not the trifecta that will help him score a knife that will actually last him a long time: heat treat, blade material, and edge geometry.
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eee52b No.597554
Any suggestions for a boot or neck knife streloks?
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c5aeeb No.600997
Newfag here preparing to go innawoods and practice bushcraft for fitness, mental health and preparation for the race war. But which knife to pick?
I really like the aesthetics of the Ka-Bar Mk1 or the BK7 but how is their performance? How well do they hold an edge? How easy is it to sharpen them?
I also like the Bark River knives, like the Bravo 1.5. How well do these hold up? Is the price worth it?
Alternatively, I could go for the Condor Bushlore. It's a bit cheaper, not a "will last forever" quality but apparently it's recommended for newbies and has a surprisingly good quality for its price, comparable to the ever popular Moras. It also comes with a leather sheath that people say is worth buying the knife for even if you don't want to use it.
Ultimately I want a knife that can do everything in the bush - carving, shaving, gutting fish, cutting open canned food, even some light batonning of small sticks (no logs though obviously).
I can spend about $100-150.
I have a need for utilitarian aesthetics. Love the Kabar or the Bushlore style, briefly considered getting a bowie knife but those are a little too unwieldy for some bushcraft operations and I don't ascribe to the burger "bigger is better" mentality, although the little stubby knives seem lame on both aesthetics and utility fronts. I also really like traditional wood handles, or at least handles that don't look like nondescript black plastic. Overall, I like the "traditional" look, like something that wouldn't look out of place in Thoreau's pack. Which is why I'm not a fan of all the knives with goofy shapes or handles that look like nondescript black plastic.
But most of all, I want a knife that will last forever. Something that with regular sharpening, occasional oiling and good upkeep will still be on my belt 10 years from now. I'd like it to become my knife, not just a bushcraft tool.
So which of these would be best? Or is there a better alternative? Remember I'm looking for ruggedness and long life above all else, and kabar/traditionalist aesthetics as a close second.
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a4a66b No.601001
>>600997
Good choices. KA-BAR's 1095CV is decent and holds an edge, but like all 10-series, rusts. Keep an eye on it. 1095 is easy enough to touch up and can be kept in check with some fine stones or a strop provided you don't let it go dull. Takes a good patina.
Do NOT buy Bark River. QC is all over the place with them. They tend to burn the fuck out of their edges and blame the buyer when the blade inevitably fails, and won't listen to anyone who has tried to get them to change this. You have just as much chance of getting a bad one as you do a good one, which is unacceptable considering their price point. There are many others who will provide a superior blade for the same cash and guarantee it against failure.
Condor is good and their machetes outclass many others on the market, but a lot of their knives need work in order to shine. The Bushlore is no different. Would recommend the Mora Kansbol, Gerber Strongarm, or Terävä Jääkäripuukko over the Bushlore, personally, but they're all polymer-handled.
Lastly, a knife will only last as long as you make it. There are guys out there who use a Mora until it's a shadow of its former self, worn down into a sharp nub. If one blade guaranteed lifelong service, everyone would just buy that instead of wasting time on junk.
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c5aeeb No.601115
>>601001
Hmm, yes I've heard some bad reviews about Bark River, although fanboys always say that their lifetime warranty will offset any mistakes. But if they're fucking up their tempering/heat treating then I'll stay well away.
The LT Wright knives like the Genesis come in flat grind, although their handles are micarta. Still it's not an ugly micarta per se. And I found one page selling the LTW Genesis with a beautiful wood handle, albeit for a rather painful price. How do they hold up?
I'm really stuck on the need for a rosewood/desert ironwood/dark red wood handle on my knife. I've considered some of the custom makers on the bushcraftusa forums. Adventure Sworn makes a lot of beautiful wood scaled knives, although their prices might be a bit too painful to bear and I don't spy a flat grind in their stock. Are you familiar with any custom makers and their work quality?
You'd think it wouldn't be so hard to find
>Wood scaled
>Flat grind
>Top tier high-carbon steel
>Simple spear point/drop point, no goofy shapes
Is there at least a micarta handled knife that looks like wood?
Another question: How do all the high carbon steels hold up to each other? The LT Wright Genesis uses A2 and the vaunted Spyderco uses O1 steel, how do they compare to the 10 series like 1075-1095? What's a good tierlist?
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b55a7a No.601120
>>597507
Whoa my dick actually twitched at the havocworks.
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a4a66b No.601288
YouTube embed. Click thumbnail to play.
>>601115
Fanboys say a lot of things. It'd be one thing if it were a minor defect, but we're talking about full-convex knives that can't cut through a chopstick without sustaining tremendous edge damage. Couple that with boxy handles that wear into your hands and you've got a serious problem. Shame, too. I really like their 1909 Michigan Bowie.
It's not as hard as you may think. Have you considered Andy Roy's work over at Fiddleback Forge? The Recluse in particular is a great blade. There are lots of good makers who retrofit blades with new material. Sunrise Custom Knives is one. Survival Tactics was another until they closed their doors. Justin Gingrich from Ranger Knives did them on occasion. I'm going to take an Ontario 12" machete to get it rehandled with natural canvas micarta.
I don't have any infographics at the moment, but googling "knife steel guide" pulls up decent pages. That's not much of an offering, I realize, but what you're asking for is a question that requires a big and dedicated response, and most of the top results there can answer that.
Good luck.
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08fc02 No.601646
>>601288
If only you knew how bad things really are in the knife world.
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36fe0f No.601663
All I have is a Sanrenmu 7010 and Victorinox Huntsman. Have no use for a fixed blade at the moment.
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ea6dab No.601733
Got my BK7 hot-blued by a firearms refinisher.
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b55a7a No.601757
>>601646
Only if you buy from retards.
>bulgaria
Every village has someone who does crosses and knives. Go to him, see his work, make sure its good, and then contract a knife.
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c5aeeb No.601832
>>601288
I think I've settled on the traditional Finnish Puukko style of knife. It's just an incredibly good knife. Terrible for batoning, but that's why I'm getting a GB Small Forest Axe. The scandi grind is also good for beginners. I've practically fallen in love with the Puukko style.
Initially I wanted to get a knife from Malanika, who is the gold standard of beautiful Pukko custom knives. Couldn't find their prices anywhere, but heard from somebody that a barebones model is somewhere in the neighbourhood of $225.
I think I've settled on the Puukko knives sold by Kellam. They're a nice in between, they hit my budget category perfectly, and they maintain that high quality razor edge perfection of the Finnish design. Pretty handles too!
Kellam is actually more of a brand though, they resell knives by a whole bunch of scandinavian makers. This holds true for a lot of Finnish "cottage" shops - most of their blades are produced by Lauri. Regardless, they're all of rather high quality.
I can't decide between the Kellam Pukko or the Kellam Wolverine. Both are nearly identical, but the Wolverine has a treatment called SPT where the cutting edge gets a differential heat treatment that adds 4 Rockwell hardness points.
I'm leaning towards the plain Puukko model because different hardnesses sound like a mess to sharpen, but a lot of people say the SPT edge makes the Wolverine hold its edge longer and carve through wood like butter.
Which should I get?
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13bc85 No.601834
>>601832
My wife is part Finnish and I keep finding pukko knives throughout the house. Can't help you with your decision though, these ones seem to be handmade by locals.
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c5aeeb No.601980
>>601834
>My wife is part Finnish and I keep finding pukko knives throughout the house
I like the idea that Finns just naturally spawn puukkos everywhere they go
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09e0ac No.602584
Just bought pic related. Going to get the trout and bird variant to accompany it for innawoods fun.
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a4a66b No.602588
YouTube embed. Click thumbnail to play.
A cheap acquisition.
>>601646
Ha! Great example of why I do thorough vetting of any maker before I commission a blade. I never liked Winkler's work, and I don't understand the popularity. Twenty of his knives equal one from, say, Hossom or Burch. Even Mineral Mountain Hatchet Works turns out better steel than that.
>>601733
Nice work.
>>601757
Not a bad choice at all. Scandinavian blades are easy to maintain, simple in their design, and very user friendly. I would personally get the Wolverine; since the aim behind your purchase (I presume) is processing wood, a softer edge will need more work to maintain and keep ready, unless you're fine with that idea. I personally prefer differentially hardened blades.
As for batoning, I'm not a huge advocate of it personally. If it can be done, great, but no problem if not. A good cut is a matter of the right angle and the right leverage.
Ever see Pekka Tuominen's work?
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a4a66b No.602589
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5c8444 No.602609
What do you think about this knife? I really wanted to buy it for SHTF purposes (I would obviously use it in forest for "bushcraft" and heavy operations).
It's made in finland.
lamnia. com/en/p/7877/knives/j-p-peltonen-m95-ranger-knife-kydex
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a4a66b No.602820
>>602609
I've heard those are great field knives, though I've never owned one myself. I like that it was kept simple.
>pros
>saber grind, ensuring long service life if it must be reground (looks like it used to be a full flat a while ago)
>6" blade, good long blade for defense
>full tang with comfy overmolded handle
>80CrV2, which seems to be gaining popularity
>drop point, but not so much that it loses piercing ability
>5mm spine, thick blade!
>differential heat treat
>grind begins very close to the finger guard, good for finer carving
>blade shape is very basic and clean: decent belly and blade length for draw cuts
>good sheath to boot!
>cons
>no 90 degree spine for striking a firesteel or ferro rod
I'd gladly use that. Good soldier's blade. Looks like it can do some work.
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5c8444 No.602886
>>602820
Thanks. I'll definitively buy it when I'll have enough money.
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a4a66b No.603224
TOPS is a mixed bag in my book, but they hold up extremely well in the field by most accounts and are another good example of differentially hardened blades done right.
That being said, I'll be fucked if I know why they keep making mall ninja shit. They produce great knives, once you get past the wildly impractical stuff.
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a4a66b No.603225
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8d15c7 No.603951
>>597312
…hormone replacement therapy?
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d6a04e No.604239
How do I restore the point on a mauser bayonet?
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666efb No.604244
>>604239
stick it up your ass
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d6a04e No.604255
>>604244
Awww, she's too beautiful for buttplay.
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0ee4ce No.604293
>>604239
The same way you create a point on any blade.
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0b8a50 No.604301
>>604239
Enjoy the hours of using a whetstone.
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cbb942 No.604335
>>604239
Mine’s in great condition but I’d imagine you’ll want to sharpen it with the bones of Commies and kikes. Though too much of a point is an issue because it can get your bayonet Stuck in bone
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352ef1 No.604336
I'm about to start a knife project (Sgian Dubh). Is anybody interested enough for me to post pics and stuff?
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4e5b47 No.604342
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352ef1 No.604367
>>604342
This is going to be an anniversary gift for my wife. The theme for this year is cotton or china. I couldn't come up with anything good until I realized that micarta could be made with cotton, then that china is ceramic. Therefore a micarta handled ceramic knife is a perfect gift. (also won't set off metal detectors)
Here's what I'm starting with. I need to get the handle off, then see what the best way to attach the handle will be.
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352ef1 No.604491
>>604367
Got the handle off, marked where I want the blade length, ground the edge back, and mocked up the handle with a rag. The shape and proportions worked out better than I was afraid they might. I'll probably just mold the handle to it since that's how it was done in the factory.
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132a3b No.604589
First question, are these usable knives and not just grinded repros for reenactors?
https://www.hessenantique.com/Trench_Messer_Grabendolch_p/21186108.htm
https://www.hessenantique.com/Fighting_Knife_Kampfmesser_p/21186118.htm
second, where could I get them in Britain or actual knives like them if they're just intended for reenacting
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0b8a50 No.604626
>>604589
Most likely stuff for reenactors. Better if you found originals.
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132a3b No.604628
>>604626
But I wouldn't want a 100 year old knife for anything practical?
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0b8a50 No.604631
>>604628
If taken care of it'll outlast you. For the longest time I used my FS knife for anything and everything before it got swiped and as far as I know my brother still uses an old HJ knife for his daily stuff.
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132a3b No.604632
>>604631
your FS knife was most likely a repro, same goes for the HJ knife.
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cbb942 No.604634
>>604589
I bought a butcher blade bayonet from them (WWI german boynet) the steel was alright but it had a bit of a point but the blade was like 3-4 mm wide, so no edge at all. I took ‘er to the bench grinder and fucked up the finish but it’s sharp and weighs much less now. Also the general make isn’t too great. I’ll post pictures when I’m home. Also it doesn’t lock on my K98K so I’m sure they’re all just for looks
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0b8a50 No.604636
>>604632
Nope. The tip was borked off at some point and redone with a whetstone and it had the correct broad arrow, had the really fancy brass pommel/grip. The HJ knife my great grandfather got from one of his cousins in Germany before the end of the war. Nowadays I carry around an old M3 I found in a junk pile.
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132a3b No.604652
>>604634
Well then, where do I get myself a grabendolch that can actually hold an edge?
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4e5b47 No.604659
>>604652
I mean those will probably hold an edge. I’m not smith or metallurgist, and haven’t used pic related much but I assume a proper sharpening would hold a seven edge. Was just warning you that it’ll probably come with 2 extra pounds of steel on the “edge.” As I don’t have any pre-grinding pics this is all I can show you and the knives may all be from different companies. But this is the butcher blade I got from hessen it’s mostly to fuck around with and I rarely use it so fuck off with buggering me about not spending hours to make a proper edge and not fuck the blade up.
First pic is a defect in the steel. 2nd is the incorrectly shaped back of the cross guard, 3rd is the poorly shaped grips. 4th is the blade I fucked up. 5th is the thickness with 12gauge for scale
P.S. it says so in the shipping page but so you don’t fuck up like me (unless it’s only for Canada) they only use UPS to ship, so pay the extra price for the premium or express shipping. UPS doesn’t charge any brokerage fees if you don’t pick the cheaper shipping offer and it is totally worth it. I got about 5-6 packages from hessen antiques over the last year and a half to make my SS LARP costume and the brokerage fees UPS charges for duty and shit is usually hundereds of dollars because most of that shit wasn’t made in the US. I don’t know bing import rules or again it might be just for Canada but read the shipping page because I could have saved hundreds if I didn’t choose the cheaper shipping option.
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4e5b47 No.604660
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d6a04e No.604685
>>604293
How is that done?
>>604301
Wish I knew where I left my whetstone.
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a4a66b No.604929
YouTube embed. Click thumbnail to play.
Here's a decent video for tip restoration, although I'm not fond of the prolonged holding of the steel to the grit, and the shallow dunks in the water to "cool the blade off".
What Cliff Stamp pointed out is worth restating here: blades require a very specific treatment with regards to temperature and hardening. If one is going to do the "quick and easy" way to alter blade geometry by using a belt sander, one must recognize the risk inherent to that powered equipment and the intense friction caused by the running abrasives.
Ice the water with salt, and run that grinder or belt on slow. Get that blade cold before removing steel. Otherwise you'll end up with the same problem Bark River has with their blades.
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a4a66b No.605668
A few more pieces, both common and obscure.
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c8f6c2 No.605700
>>604244
>b-but i poop from there
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f7b1b6 No.605840
Are pocket sharpeners like picrelated memes?
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f8efa6 No.605871
>>605840
Carbide sharpeners absolutely fuck your shit up. A pocket-sized ceramic stone and some practice with freehand sharpening would be a much wiser investment.
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a4a66b No.605890
>>605840
>>605871
Seconded. Would recommend Lansky's actual system over some cheap pull-through sharpener they make, or the Spyderco Sharpmaker. Next step is the KME.
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2bdaa5 No.607084
>>602588
On behalf of Winkler knives today, I must say that hunting knife is an early model, and I have a newer Recon that is better finished and symmetrical. Still not worth 400$ though, maybe 150$ max, and only because of the sheath.
They have toothy edges and grind marks everywhere, they smell like shit and leave a bad taste in food, the hunting knife has an uneven ground edge on each side, a retarded tip and it's amateurishly ground at the ricasso.
Who knows, I might have gotten an early vintage collectible treasure and I dont know it, but as a knife it's quite shit. I bought it second hand for a good price ( I thought) but I still regret it. Nowadays I wouldnt pay more than 90$ for something like that.
I expected a belt knife, good for cutting and I got a more expensive BK2 axe-chisel-batonny knife.
Winkler is in my mind Emerson squared, shit quality at astonishing prices. At least it's sharp and I guess tough as well. That hunting knife is my beater knife for now, I'll maybe sell the recon.
Other than the Navy SEAL hype and shady marketing I dont understand the appeal. They look like historical tactical practical but are neither historical nor practical. And they're comfortable but not as much as a Morakniv anyways.
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2bdaa5 No.607096
>>590591
I like Spydercos for work knives, they look like work tools and not mallninja shit (the ones I'd suggest)
Get a Delica 4 or an Endura 4 FFG to start, you can get them new for that price. They're not top notch but they'll cut much better than what you have, most probably. As for the feel it's not great , because of the plastic scales, but friendly colors help you (green, blue, purple etc..).
Because there are thousands of knives with thousands of prices I would not recommend anything more expensive. Lurk around yourself for that. However dont forget good quality knives stand the test of use and time, which means it's perfectly acceptable to buy used knives in the second hand market, allowing you to fish for bargains from time to time.
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d376ca No.607194
Is Spyderco a meme, or should I get a PM2?
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2e8fbe No.607238
>>607084
I can't say I fault you for wanting something better out of a $400 purchase. It says something when a "custom" at that price range can be outclassed in just about every category by a $10 Mora or $50 Ontario.
>>607194
Sure, knock yourself out. Plenty of people love theirs. I've considered picking up a Gayle Bradley 2 for a while there, but will probably pick up a Para 3 instead.
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d536f8 No.607248
my criteria in order is materials, locking mechanism if its a folder, blade shape, and how comfortable it is in the hand. price is obviously bound to what i can afford at the time, but i have no issues in spending 250 on a fixed blade and 150 on a folder when i can afford it. spine locks are the only locking mechanism worth buying imo. oh, and i wont buy partially serrated knives, if i want to cut rope and things ill buy some pos beater knife and give it a rough edge with a coarse file, that works better than serrated blades for rope anyway. got that trick from an old sailor i know, never used anything else to cut rope since. and ive yet to find something else youd need a serrated blade for.
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d536f8 No.607249
brand loyalty is for chumps anyway, if its a good knife ill buy it.
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1cd7e6 No.607261
>>607248
I haven't heard that rough file for your rope knife trick. Gonna try that, I have a single knife on my climbing rig just for cutting rope if needed (only once so far and I was the hang up…)
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f7b1b6 No.607262
>>605871
>>605890
That's fair, makes sense about the carbide. Regarding meme sharpeners, Benchmade makes this thing, which is an actual stone and not a pull-through. Any good?
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bd7487 No.607264
>>607262
That's just a rebrand of a worksharp product. They work ok, especially for the price. It's great as a field sharpening kit for someone who has trouble maintaining a stable angle. Good for reinforcing technique. The strop kind of sucks, but you have a belt on you most of the time.
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a4a66b No.607348
YouTube embed. Click thumbnail to play.
>>607262
>meme sharpeners/meme knives/etc
Don't think like this. If it works, use it. If people get asshurt and disapprove of something that clearly works for you, who cares?
The pattern I'm noticing is that you're gravitating towards sharpeners that work off of preset angles. For field expedience, that should work fine since it's not a pull-through carbide. There are plenty of guys out there who get by with a diamond or ceramic rod in the field, but that should do.
Side note: learning to freehand will take you far.
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f7b1b6 No.607382
>>607348
>the pattern I'm noticing is that you're gravitating towards sharpeners that work off of preset angles.
That's partly it. Mostly it's that I have store credit with REI and Optics Planet, and I'm gravitating towards products that they carry. I'm not opposed to learning freehand, I just figure with something like that Worksharp, I can always choose not to use the preset. I don't have any qualms about using "meme" options (nor are they the only thing I'm considering), and don't really give a shit if some anon retard gets asshurt about my choice. I just figure 8chong is the best place to ask about "meme" options because the cynical contrarianism of anons means they're all too happy to point out the flaws of something that JewtuberMcShekelstein6969 will blindly praise.
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31b609 No.607412
polite sage for blatant shilling, but if theres any ausfags that want a kukri, go to khukurihouseonline.com, and find the khhi australia option lower right of the header. adelaide warehouse, and we avoid some tax, and a few other things. currently, the most expensive kukhuri in the aus section is about 175aud, and the cheapest actual one is 79.
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31b609 No.607413
i guess im retarded, the prices are still in us, mea culpa
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a4a66b No.607807
>>607382
You've been on halfchan /k/ too long.
The Lansky red box is probably the cheapest preset system out there, albeit it does take a bit of accessorizing to get it up to snuff. Once you get a stand for it, it's basically a poor man's KME. One question I don't believe was asked (and if it was, I overlooked it): is the intention to use this sharpener in the field, or are you looking for a workbench setup?
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6dafa2 No.607868
>>607807
>You've been on halfchan /k/ too long.
Never visited once. This would be for field use, I figure the Sharpmaker would be best for at-home.
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a4a66b No.608037
On a totally unrelated note, I have a deep affinity for high saber grinds and well executed clip points. I love it when these two factors come together. The end result is always classy and utilitarian.
>>607868
If it's just for field use, that should be fine. Bottom line as it was mentioned before is to avoid pull-through sharpeners that use aluminum carbides. They take off too much metal.
If not that, then a diamond rod or ceramic rod. Even a good stropping will be enough to restore an edge if it hasn't been overworked. Good luck.
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fe5994 No.608300
Hey Spain if you are still here what would you recomend for a fixed blade combat knife? Preferably stiletto at or 6' inches?
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2bdaa5 No.608352
>>608300
What does "combat knife" mean
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f03fcc No.608366
>>608352
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Combat_knife
that tactical kitchen knife looks cool but i'd not sharpen the back side of the blade, only the tip
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f03fcc No.608367
>>608300
Fairbairn Sykes or something knife is pretty good and is the closest to stiletto of fighting knifes. If you want a stiletto, get a stiletto though.
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0b8a50 No.608376
>>608300
I'd personally recommend a M3 if you can find it.
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367d31 No.608380
>>608300
Fairbairn sykes.
Although make sure it's full tang, there is a ricasso, the handguard is S-shaped, it has a spherical impact knob on the butt and both sides of the handguard.
That's a real FS.
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22ab35 No.608589
>>608300
Be aware that there are flaws with the FS design. The triangular cross section makes it hard to put a good edge on the blade, and the round handle makes it impossible to know where the edge unless you are drawing it from a sheath. There were several combat reports of agents in WWII trying to slash at their enemy with what turned out to be the flat of the blade. Some agents even milled or filed down the sides of the handles so that they could tell by touch where the edge was.
The cross guard also prevents the use of saber grips, unless the thumb nail is trimmed short. Otherwise it has a tendency to peel back the nail when a thrust hits something hard, like bone or ballistic plates.
The fine, needle point is also prone to snapping off during use.
It's a good knife, but it is designed for eliminating the enemy mostly using thrusts to vital areas of the body.
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4e2a5a No.608595
>handle KA-BAR brand KA-BAR
>feels nice
>buy my own KA-BAR brand KA-BAR
>feels awful
>revisit not-my KA-BAR brand KA-BAR
>feels awful
Well fuck.
Are there any knives that have a similar profile and weight to an American M1 Bayonet? I could always find one that's been mangled up, but I'd rather get something new and not haggle for defaced surplus.
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1889d9 No.608606
>>608589
isn't fighting with knives dumb and you're better off quick drawing mace to gain distance to shoot while your foe is temporary disabled?
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2bdaa5 No.608664
>>608367
>>608376
>>608380
>>608589
>>608589
You're not Spain.
I would not seriously consider killing someone with a knife as a designated weapon if it isnt a pointy dagger at around 8 inches.
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a4a66b No.608984
Since we're posting daggers…
>>608606
The Philippines, Indonesia, Malaysia, hell, pretty much the entire region of Southeast Asia would like a word with you. There is no "fighting with knives", only killing with them. You will not always have the advantage of range or open unrestricted movement, which is where edged weapons come in. The short blade prevails in confined spaces, which arnisadors have known for a long time and some veterans of OIF had to learn the hard way.
>>608595
A picture would help, considering that there's more than one M1 out there.
>>608589
>fairbairn sykes
>triangular cross section
>wut
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4e2a5a No.609013
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eae394 No.609048
It’s meme-tier as fuck but it’s a genuinely good knife. Used mine countless times innawoods for chopping wood and cutting rope. Relatively easy to keep sharp and no rust problems.
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a4a66b No.609514
>>609013
Okay, let's have a look.
>10" blade
>broad fuller
>spear point
>double guard
>bird's beak pommel
>palm swell handle
Aside from buying a straight up repro, I came up with these. Blade length alone yields few enough results without throwing things like weight into the metrics to narrow the result pool further. With no idea of your price point, here are my findings.
>Fallkniven MC1
>Ontario SP5 (I own this one and love it)
>Condor Combat Machete
>Extrema Ratio Ordinanza
>Extrema Ratio Operativo
>Todd Begg Guerilla
>Ontario SP50
>Ontario SP51
It's worth pointing out that this knife is configured in such a way because it was originally much longer, fitting into short sword dimensions, where the broad fuller made much more sense. You see broad fullers in legacy (read: old) designs from time to time, like the Marbles Ideal Knife or any KA-BAR, but aside from a few outliers they're hard to find.
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4e2a5a No.609520
>>609514
I appreciate the suggestions Anon - really didn't expect it seeing as I went full retard and left it a bit vague and left out that I was mainly focused on the grip profile since the standard KA-BAR grip is giving me lots of grief while I much prefer the feel of a solid bird's beak pommel(as you put it) over the flat disc it has.
A repro is tempting, and I could even shorten it without feeling terrible about it, but I'll look over your suggestions a few times and see if any stand out.
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a4a66b No.610605
>>609520
I don't like the KA-BAR Fighting Knife, personally. There are far better knives to be had for the same price, sometimes less. That isn't to say that the company makes bad knives, however.
If your main point of interest is the handle, I'd just as soon say for you to get a Becker BK9. Roughly the same size blade with better geometry, full tang, contoured handle, and a pommel you seem to be looking for.
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4e2a5a No.610613
>>610605
Looks perfect, thanks Anon.
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1f5913 No.610624
thinking of picking up one of these anyreason why i shouldn't?
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a4a66b No.610631
>>610613
No worries. I think you'll enjoy it, the BK9 is a really solid knife as you'll hear from the million gear reviewers on YouTube.
>>610624
>all these bayonets lately
Are you planning on buying it to put on an AK, or are you just a fan of the design?
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f7b1b6 No.610691
>>610605
I've got a BK7 myself, has worked great. What would you say is the capability gap between the two? So far it just seems like the BK9 can baton sticks that are a big bigger in diameter, and that's about it. Also,
SHEATHS
Post your knaifu's home when she's not in your hand. Leather is purdy but retains water, if you don't want your knives to rust you better be using Kydex.
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0b8a50 No.610693
>>610624
Its entirely cast. They will break, they don't hold an edge well and are really fucking prone to rust.
t.vz user
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1f5913 No.610713
>>610693
a cast knife? whose brilliant idea was that?
is a kalashnikov bayonet better?
>>610631
I want one as a standalone knife, but I can put it on vz.58 when i finally get to building
it, however they might not be really good
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4e2a5a No.610732
>>610713
>is a kalashnikov bayonet better?
None of the AK bayonets hold an edge, not even the wirecutter.
Bayonets are for stabbing, anon.
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1f5913 No.610752
>>610732
>Bayonets are for stabbing, anon.
Im planning a trip in which i will have to mill around the streets of la from 12am-7am till am track starts working
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0b8a50 No.610787
>>610713
Some communist who figure it'd save money that is who.
>AK bayonet
Good for a wirecutter, a Hori-Hori and stabbing.
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a4a66b No.610825
YouTube embed. Click thumbnail to play.
>>610691
As far as how the two are different, the BK7 has a profile with a finer (and if you ask me, better) point. The BK9 has roughly the same edge geometry, but terminates to a stronger albeit chunkier point – something of note for those guys who like to drill divots.
It's not just a matter of batoning. The 9 outclasses the 7 in most all cutting tasks. Heft in chopping and length in slashing play obvious mechanical roles. It's a longer lever. You'll find that the BK9 takes less force on your part to achieve the same cut as a BK7 since you're dealing with a more robust blade. There are lots of factors that play a role behind cutting performance (sharpness, blade geometry, technique, edge alignment, etc), but more mass behind the blade means more inertia behind the edge, translating to a more authoritative cut, whether that's a hack or a slice. Enjoy the video.
That being said, the other outliers are that it can be used far more easily as a draw knife and planer, provided that the spine is squared off to a true 90 degrees. Your free hand has more real estate to choke up on the spine and get shavings or ferrules. This can be done with the BK7, but like I said, it's harder to do. I still prefer the BK7, even with all this said.
>>610752
For self-defense, there are better knives out there for concealment, for deployment, and for making your cut. If you really want it, by all means buy it. Do you have any edged weapons training?
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3f0bd1 No.611614
>>610713
I'd honestly be interested to see how a cast blade would perform tbh, I wouldn't be so quick to throw judgements. It was good enough for tank turrets back in the day.
Although I wouldn't trust my life with one off the bat.
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07f162 No.611618
YouTube embed. Click thumbnail to play.
Reminder that knives are often MORE regulated than guns and you should all join an advocacy group or three to push back and reclaim those rights
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c7e5c7 No.611789
just bought this bad-boy, cant wait for it to come in. full flat tang, and though it lacks the flare for the rear of the handle, a quick leather wrap should fix that. 9.5mm blade thickness, 10.5 inch overall length, 875 gram actual weight.
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c7e5c7 No.611793
>>610691
>not oiling your sheath
thats like, basic leather care. get a rag on a stick, get some mineral oil or leather care oil of your choice on it, and get the inside of the sheath with it. get some dubbin on the outside as well. never had any rust issues wit the ancient knife i used to own with a leather sheath from doing just that.
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3f0bd1 No.611805
>>611789
>9.5mm blade thickness
>125g off being a kilo
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c7e5c7 No.611808
>>611805
thats whats called a working knife, son. its basically an axe. they make amazing camp knives. not bad for butchering either, with some practice, you can skin with them, and also use them as a cleaver. and that thickness is just the straight spine section, it tapers after the curve.
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3f0bd1 No.611810
>>611808
it's ridiculous lad. im not criticising or anything, i'm just in awe. ive never really seen anything like it apart from short swords. i can certainly imagine it'll be brutally good at chopping. that, without a doubt, IS the knife i've ever seen.
admit it, you got it just so you could authentically quote that famous crocodile dundee line
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c7e5c7 No.611812
>>611810
that was a thought i had as i bought it, yes. oh, and its not 10.5 overall, its a 10.5 blade length.
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c3aaaf No.611980
>>590454
Ka-Bars are Awesome. USMC Semper Fi
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f7b1b6 No.611987
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1f4d49 No.611999
>>611980
How about U Suck My Cock?
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5c8444 No.612006
I don't seen anything in this thread about the fallkniven A2 (and relative).
These are very expansive knifes.
Are they overpriced? Is it too pricy for a knife at all? (fear of losing it, being stolen etc…)
I always have this fear of losing my gears/having it stolen during SHTF. It would hurt a lot of lose such a pricy blade.
What would be an acceptable price for a knife, if you want it to be serious?
I have my eyes on this M95 ranger >>602609 that cost around 80 euros.
I seriously don't know if I should go for them, buy like 2/3 of them to be sure to have backup, or simply buy cheap moras to everyone in my family.
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37ffb0 No.612014
>>612006
Looking up the Fallkniven A2 I see a price of about 400-470€.
They are really good knifes, but the problem is for the same price you can buy extremely good custom made knives.
I have no idea how the prices are where you live, but here in Germany by a price of about 150€ you can get a good custom made knife that is at the high point of quality and will do everything you need it for.
Everything above that and your are paying for a brand name, the name of a "famous" knife maker/designer, a fancy pattern on the blade or expensive handle/sheath material.
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5c8444 No.612031
>>612014
Thanks, I'll look on custom made knife.
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f7b1b6 No.612060
>>611793
True, leather works well if you take care of it, but that goes for just about everything–problems arise when you can't or don't do anything properly, e.g. if, even if your sheath is oiled, you stick your blade in soaking wet, forget about it, and let it sit. Kydex sheaths have a little drip hole in the bottom to help mitigate this.
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c7e5c7 No.612233
>>612060
well, i kind of assumed that anyone willing to drop good money on good knives is going to treat them good and proper.
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5afdce No.612337
>>612006
I have an A2 and it is by far the best knife I have ever owned
I haven't regretted a singe penny I spent on it
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5afdce No.612338
>>610691
>Leather is purdy but retains water, if you don't want your knives to rust you better be using Kydex.
the only time I sheath my knife is when it's on my hip
when I am storing it, I wrap it in a silicone oiled cloth and keep it in a ceder box
even kydex can act as a moisture trap and cause your baby to rust
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d6a04e No.613023
Which bayonet should I nab? #7's seen some shit, but #6 looks pretty damn beautiful and a bit longer.
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f2052b No.613040
Is it worth it to get a Hidden Canyon Hunter from Benchmade for $95?
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3f0bd1 No.613107
>>613040
I'm an idiot but that doesn't look like $95 worth of knife to me.
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3f0bd1 No.613110
>>613040
>>613107
Then again I did buy a Boker Plus Urban Trapper Petite for about as much, albeit the titanium version. It looks nice but the blade could be longer for that price on a fixed.
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3f0bd1 No.613115
>>613023
5 looks the nicest but it's your choice anon. 7 has that sexy handle design, with a bit of love it would be gawjus.
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f7b1b6 No.613119
>>613040
What does it do that an Izula-II can't do? You can get the latter for a good deal cheaper, only advantage of the Benchmade from what I can tell is the S30V memesteel.
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f2052b No.613125
>>613110
I didn't want too long of a blade because I plan on using it to clean game and didn't want to nick the colon.
>>613119
>What does it do that an Izula-II can't do?
I don't know; I've never heard of Izula-II before.
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f7b1b6 No.613163
>>613125
It's a knife from ESEE that's similar to yours but a good deal cheaper.
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a4a66b No.613230
>>613040
>benchmade anything
I really want to tell you no. Benchmade direly needs to get their heads out of their asses and stop with the really simple quality control issues that could be fixed with a simple spot check before sending it out the door. We're talking uneven grinds, inconsistent bevels, blade play in folders, and other annoying things that have no business being on knives at such a high price point. S30V, at that. You're not even getting 20CV or M390 or 204P for your trouble. Just basic vanilla S30V. I say this as someone who owns a 943.
Try a Mora Eldris instead for a comparably sized fixed blade. Comparable dimensions to the Hidden Canyon, so you can see for yourself whether or not you'd be served by a blade that size, at a non-committal price.
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7031bf No.613246
The best all round knife for outdoor use.
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3f0bd1 No.613255
https://www.mychefknives.co.uk/1006-shapton-whetstones
After watching the japanese guy who makes knives out of everything's videos, I really want to try my hand at proper whetstone sharpening but is it worth it? I'm no chef, these are some costly slabs of stone. What is the best, rather a better alternative sharpening system for folders and small ish fixed blades on a lower budget?
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5d16cb No.613260
>>613255
Go to your local Harbor Freight or equivalent unless hardware stores are banned or heavily restricted in bongland.
They have cheap ones there. Usually less than 20 burgerbux.
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3f0bd1 No.613265
>>613260
Went to Wickes and Homebase, we have hardware stores. They had Stanley sharpening kits which were basically just a rough grit block and some kind of roller jig. That was basically it and I didn't much like the look of it. They didn't seem to have any proper stones, not even cheap ones.
Also where do I get a table clamp thing like in the video?
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7ee3b0 No.613272
>>613246
And that is? You picture is too small to see the maker.
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7ee3b0 No.613276
>>613255
You can get good whetstones for less than 30€ on amazon.
Also learning to properly sharpen your knifes and other tools is a valuable skill in life, but it requires practice.
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3f0bd1 No.613277
>>613276
Yeah, it being a skill the requires practice rather than a bought ability is half the reason I want to go that route. Still scared of fucking up my blades though. I'll look around on there, cheers.
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3f0bd1 No.613278
>>613277
*that requires practice
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e33040 No.613279
The perfect standalone survival knife:
>high carbon steel or certain low alloy tool steels (1095, O1, A2, 5160?) or 3V.
>.13-.16 inches thick (3-4 mm)
>5-6 inches blade length
>scandi or flat grind
>slight drop point / hunter style with lots of belly
>front quillion
>20-25º edge bevel
>1-1.5 inch tall blade
>full tang construction
>pinned micarta or wood handle
>leather or kydex (more durable) sheath
>lanyard hole
>loop on sheath for firesteel
>flat spine (no swedge)
>sharp spine for firesteel
>uncoated blade
>no choil or ricasso
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7031bf No.613293
>>613272
Knivsmed Strømeng, this version with finger guard is made for the Norwegian special forces. 8" long 59 HRC carbon steel blade with blued finish. It's good for hunting, fishing, cutting poles for the tent and splitting wood in the field. It's pretty damn robust too, have had mine for 16 years, and even after a lot of heavy use, it's still good as new.
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5afdce No.613296
>>613277
The book "The Razor's Edge" will help a lot.
Buy a cheap kitchen knife to start with.
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5afdce No.613306
>>613293
That's a cool knife.
Where could I buy one?
The website doesn't help much and google is isn't finding a store for me.
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7031bf No.613465
>>613306
It seems to be quite a challenge to get one outside of Norway, guess the best option would be to contact the maker directly.
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22ab35 No.613470
I'm thinking of getting a Kukri from Himalayan Imports.
What length would /k/ recommend?
I am thinking of either the 12inch "Ang Khola", the British Service Kukri, or the 12inch Sirupati martial arts Kukri
http://yhst-7333098713883.stores.yahoo.net/12inchak.html
http://yhst-7333098713883.stores.yahoo.net/brarse.html
http://yhst-7333098713883.stores.yahoo.net/12inchsirupati.html
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a4a66b No.613482
>>613470
I can attest to Himalayan Imports. I owned an 18" Chiruwa Ang Khola for a while, and I liked it.
Since Himalayan Imports uses overall length as a reference for size rather than blade length, I would say that these seem rather small, unless it's specifically a smaller khuk you're looking for. In that case, you might like the Keshar Lal Villager Utility Knife (KLVUK) that tends to show up on their BladeForums page. Auntie Yangdu really has a lot of great deals there that you won't find on their main page, and she posts them every few days or so.
I prefer a khukuri to have a blade about 12" long from bolster to tip, and if I had to make my purchase again, it would probably be a sirupati for the reach and lighter weight.
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20ea69 No.613487
>>613482
What is your Khukuris overall length? And perhaps a 15inch (overall) sirupati would be a better choice? It looks closer to the 'traditional' size than the 12inch version.
http://yhst-7333098713883.stores.yahoo.net/15inchsirupati.html
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a4a66b No.613489
>>613487
I don't have it any longer, but the overall length was 18". The handle was longer than I cared for, and the only model they make with a curved handle is their dui chirra, which I've considered in the past.
If you're asking me what I would prefer, I would probably go with an 18" sirupati because of the reduced mass of the sirupati profile. Sirupatis are made for reach and speed, so they lack the mass of the common budhume models you see everywhere, which you'd have to make up for with the longer blade.
Not knowing your needs, preferences, or physical dimensions, I can only comment on what worked for me. I remember some good reviews on the 15" siru, but would advise you to check the BladeForums deals of the day before purchasing them from the site outright. You may find one (or one like it) for cheaper.
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acc05b No.613636
I'm looking for a bayonet to put on my 590, seems like a disservice to not have one for it. Is there any out there that have a good reputation? Also is there a way to classify bayonets? IE this type will fit this lug on this rifle?
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0b8a50 No.613648
>>613636
Any M9 pattern bayonet will lug right on without any problem. Also most bayonets tend to be only for their on rifle, only real multi use I've seen is G98/K98 bayonets will lug onto a FN49 and a M6 hilariously fits onto a M95 Steyr. Anything else out there has/was converted over to be used with X rifle like what the Norwegians and Turks did when they got Garands.
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1dc3cb No.613659
>>613277
>Still scared of fucking up my blades though.
Try getting old kitchen knifes for cheap, you can sharpen even stainless steel knifes without a problem on a stone its just a little more work.
If that isn't possible buy cheap mercator/opinel/douk douk/higonokami knifes for less than 20€ from amazon and use them for practice.
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c7e5c7 No.613844
>>613470
ive got the OEF kukri from KHHI coming inside the next week, ill drop a casual review on here when it does. they have an aussie section with cheaper prices than the HI site, so if the knives are good quality i reckon youd be better off. theyve also got the british service kukri, its 85usd, as opposed to 200. ive heard good reports about that particular knife as well.
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1cd978 No.613859
>>613230
>basic vanilla S30V
there's barely any difference between S30V and m390. S30V is already an extremely hard steel.
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22ab35 No.613901
>>613844
Got a link to the cheaper Aussie section of HI mate? I seem to have the stupids today and cant find it.
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4e5503 No.613907
>>613844
>>613901
>>613470
>>613482
I had a pretty bad experience with KHHI. Took them 2 months and complaining to paypal to get them to ship, and pic related happened after about 10 minutes of light chopping. Grain structure shows signs of bad overheating.
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22ab35 No.613909
>>613907
I just noticed they have an entire section on repairing defective tangs in their FAQ. And their solution is to weld the tang back together…
http://www.himalayan-imports.com/Maintenance.html
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c7e5c7 No.613913
>>613907
oof. did you get it replaced with their 1 year guarantee? and i went for the full flat tang anyway, so unless im spectacularly retarded, that bitch aint breaking. and yours is the only knife ive seen of theres anywhere online thats broken at the tang like that.
>>613909
yeah, i saw the KHHI boys doing that in a video, they weld it, then they heat and beat it, which should should being the operative term deal with the stresses. and its khukuri house that does the cheaper option, not himalayan imports.
i cant find anyone leaving bad reviews for ether KH or HI, but i do mostly see HI being pushed as higher quality. ill make my decision on it once i get mine in.
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22ab35 No.613914
>>613907
One more question - did you get this from Khukuri House (KHHI) or Himalayan Improts (HI)? They are two different stores, and one has a reputation for sub-par heat treatment from what I've read over at bladeforum.
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c7e5c7 No.613918
another maker i see being recommended, though not nearly as often, is tora house. brit owned, but the blades are still made in nepal. they are noted for their lighter blades that are closer to the classic kukris with their lighter weight.
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4e5503 No.613925
>>613913
I was too disgusted to bother.
>>613914
I got it from:
http://www.khukurihouseonline.com/
If I get another one, it will be from HI.
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a4a66b No.613931
>>613859
>barely any because they're both hard steels
I disagree. This can't be your only criteria if you're going to make a claim like that. Looking past the respective data sheets, steel tends to say a lot with how it responds to sharpening (which is why people hate Maxamet despite its perceived benefits, and why people are averse to S90V despite excellent qualities like wear resistance).
S30V is a great baseline considering there are still manufacturers out there using 420HC and it certainly set a standard in the industry, but to say there's no difference at all between the two is a little crazy when any of the three alloys I listed have marked edge retention and toughness above S30V. Where "basic vanilla" came in was simply that it is used as a minimum for higher end knives, though I can see how it came off as snobbish.
>>613907
KHHI will do custom designs and blade repair, but I'm inclined to agree with you. I was not a fan of the khuk I was sent. The steel was incredibly soft and needed attention after every use, although I had no tang issues since mine was full profile as opposed to full rat. Compared to the Himalayan Imports I ended up getting later, the difference is night and day.
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d090fe No.614641
>>613115
>>613023
Warning, check your state laws (and, in some areas, also local laws), before sporting a bayonet on a rifle. That's because they may be considered a spear.
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c7e5c7 No.614804
The knife i ordered came in, and while im happy enough with it given how much i payed, i must say, if you can afford it, go for himalayan imports instead. The steel KHHI used is fairly soft for what i would expect from a knife, though it does seem to be slightly harder along the edge, and the top grind along the spine i uneven. the sheath however, is fantastic. Good leather, and well fitted.
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c7e5c7 No.614806
The small knife that came with it is shocking though, it looks like it was just sharpened on a fine belt sander. The karda specifically.
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f03fcc No.614819
>>614804
Why is there no groove on the handle that prevents slipping like there is on most kukris?
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a4a66b No.614822
>>614804
Sorry to hear about the bad experience. Size of your knife reminds me of a KLVUK.
>>614819
KHHI specializes in khukuris for tourists. They do non-traditional handles and unusual blade shapes.
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a4a66b No.614823
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c7e5c7 No.614827
>>614819
I specifically went for that handle because i wanted to sand it back a bit further and do a leather wrap. They do a version of the same knife with the traditional handle as well.
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c7e5c7 No.614828
>>614823
Now thats a fuckin nice kukri. When i can scrape a few extra dollars together ill try finding one of those. Im not unhappy with my current purchase by any means, i knew i wasnt going to get perfection for the price i payed, and it was always going to be a beater knife.
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1ab398 No.615070
What kind of knife would be best for an all around outdoor knife that isn't too expensive? Right now I have Morakniv's "Pro S" in all of my family's 48 hour/bugout bags.
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f7b1b6 No.615071
>>615070
Ontario RAT 7 gives breddy gud bang for your buck and offers a nice all-around knife for you.
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c27857 No.615088
>>611980
>>590454
I can attest that Ka-Bars are fucking wonderful knives
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1ab398 No.615191
>>615071
>breddy gud bang for your buck
>$80 for 1 knife
Yeah, that's a little out of my price range. Is there a different model I couldn't find or something?
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4e2a5a No.615193
>>615191
Unless you have a clear budget then nobody will know what to suggest.
Outdoor knives are dangerous to cheap out on, though. Skirting the low-end of the price ranges gets you the possibility of cheap shit with very little thought or care put into them.
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1ab398 No.615194
>>615193
>Unless you have a clear budget then nobody will know what to suggest.
good point, should have thought of that.
I'd say I'm not willing to pay more than $50 dollars a knife considering I'm going to need 4 of them. Hope that's not too cheap.
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a7baee No.615198
>>615194
My bad, I see you said this is for bugout bags and not every day use. The Swedes make this thing called the Fire Knife, it's probably the lowest I'd go for a general-use fixed blade.
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ee19b8 No.615200
My edc knife is the CRKT Homefront, and it has served me very well. Solid knife and good steel.
Only issue is how anyone who has ever held it sees the takedown lever and thinks that flipping it is how you close the knife. That gets annoying.
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1ee373 No.615211
>>615198
Thats a mora, just like the ones he already has.
Also the knife he already has is good enough for something like a 48h bugout bag.
Unless he plans to hang out for weeks in the woods and do heavy work, he isn't in the need for a different knife.
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323bc5 No.615214
>>586407
Any good places that do custom knife making?
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3a0f9e No.615552
I need a good pocket knife for EDC and camping, but it'll be more for utility than defense. I want something that folds, and would prefer wood for the aesthetic. Problem is I know fuck all about knives besides the fact that my dad praises Benchmade and his dad praised Buck. Benchmade is way out of my price range (~$65) and the Buck knife I do have has a bit falling off it after going through the wash (granted it's one of their Chinese knives and I've never held one of their US made ones). It has a warranty, but I don't want to have to send my knife off for 4-6 weeks every time I forget to empty my pockets. Any suggestions for where to start looking?
Pick related, the cheap Chinese Buck I have now.
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5afdce No.615562
>>613465
So I found an online retail store out of Finland that sold them and I just got it.
Pros:
>Nice weight and size
>Good steel in the blade
>Nice feel in the hand
>Sharpens to a razors edge almost effortlessly (haven't used it yet to check edge retention)
Cons:
>The guard isn't sealed to the tang so extra care must be taken that liquids from anything I cut won't go into the handle
>Pommel is riveted so you can't remove the handle for cleaning
>The handle is birch wood (soaks up dirt an moisture easily)
I am going to carefully fill the joint between the blade and the guard with epoxy and put linseed oil on the handle.
Over all I give the knife an 8 out of 10.
For the price it's an excellent buy.
It should be paired with a smaller knife as it's a bit big for some jobs.
If anyone else wants one, I got mine at http://lamnia.com. (out of Finland)
$127.23, free shipping, and I got it in four days.
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5afdce No.615564
>>615552
My EDC is a Kershaw Skyline.
It's about $70 where ever I look.
It sharpens well and it's a nice over all.
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a4a66b No.615731
>>614828
Good luck finding one. You'll only ever be able to find repros of any old khuk lately, especially when they started making these to spec. The originals are collectors items. The Mk. 4 is a great example of a khukuri with its hollow forged belly, full tang, differential hardening, and simple construction, but so many makers ignore the subtleties of the full design and just copy the basic silhouette or profile. The BudK khukuri is an example of this.
Khukuris are great and everything when executed correctly, but rarely do I come across one that can do what it was originally designed for. Many khukuris in circulation are not quick or lively in hand, and they are too soft to hold an edge past a few chops due largely to poor smithing. Heavy and small, many leave something to be desired, which is why I typically advise people to go long when buying one.
>>615194
Here's my question to echo Germany's sentiment at >>615211 before I start making recommendations: what is wrong with the Moras you currently have?
>>615214
Take your pick. What's your price point and intended use? Some makers do certain styles better than others.
>>615552
Someone else asked an EDC question with the same price point before and got the Spyderco Delica as an answer. Its a great answer and one I'm inclined to echo here, but with your requirements, you may need something a bit different.
Most makers have gone synthetic, so is the wood aesthetic a requirement? How do you feel about locking mechanisms in your knives? Not trying to be an asshole, it's just that I don't see a lot of slipjoints in the Year of Our Lord 2018.
Try BladeHQ, KnifeCenter, and USA Made Blade for a few places to start and apply filters to their inventory. Going with your dad's suggestion is going to leave you spending a lot more money than you planned, and going with your grandpa's suggestion is going to leave you with a knife that, while decent, is outclassed by others for the same price.
>>615564
Where are you looking? I just found it on Amazon for $45.
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1fa8f3 No.615772
>>615552
Literally check into a local walmart every other week to see if their small gifts displays are up. Buck knives are a staple in those setups. There may ne some chink shit but other times you'll find some USA made ones and they're usually all classic style knives like stockmans, toothpick, congress, and canoe styles.
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1cd978 No.615840
>>613931
the only benefit Maxamet has over S90V is that it has more and harder alloying metals in its composition with roughly the same amount of carbon, and therefore is able to form larger and harder carbides. Maxamet is consequentially even brittler than S90V and harder to sharpen.
The basic issue with all these steels is carbide size and composition. The bigger and harder the carbides, the greater the potential edge retention but more brittle/delicate the edge, and the harder to sharpen.
By historical standards, S30V already has a gigantic amount of carbon and vanadium content. What I'm saying is that you won't see a meaningful difference in edge retention between it and m390 because the difference in composition is too marginal. The only way you're going to see a difference is in a controlled environment. Actually, the main visible difference would be m390's superior corrosion resistance because of the 20% chromium. But otherwise there's no meaningful difference because the margins are so small. You have to go up all the way to the S90V class to see a difference in "every day usage."
and m390 can't have superior toughness because it is by definition a harder and thus brittler steel, though marginally. I'd be surprised if it was any more or less tough than S30V. The data is so slim that it would come down to sharpening and tempering quality. The higher you go in carbon and alloying metal content, the brittler and less tough the steel because the carbides are growing.
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d54fb4 No.615854
Chef's knives are usually what I concern myself with but lately I've been feeling the need to get myself a folding knife for EDC.
Are there any decent budget friendly folders /k/ would be willing to recommend? Looking for something with a drop point, mid sized and with a decent steel (>56HRC) that isn't furnished in gaudy bullshit.
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1cd978 No.615934
>>615854
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1019032150/cold-steel-pro-lite-folding-pocket-knife-35-clip-point-4116-steel-blade-nylon-handle
$25 for axis lock, and their 4116 is a nice low-alloy steel, I have one of their kitchen knives in it. Easy to sharpen, it's not under tempered like most budget knives, and has good corrosion resistance.
IMO Cold Steel and Esee have the best value knives in the market at the moment.
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7b1e4d No.616061
>>615731
>what is wrong with the Moras you currently have?
Absolutely nothing, but I'm a bit neurotic when it comes to prepping. So if there's a better option that's also relatively cheap, then I'd like to hear about it. I also just straight up like knives, always have. Used to have a collection when I was a kid, but had to sell them off to help pay some medical bills.
>>615854
>need to get myself a folding knife for EDC.
If you want a budget friendly folder, then the Kudu but Cold steel isn't that bad, and you get a pretty big bang for your buck. Don't get me wrong, it's FAR from perfect, but as far as budge knives go, you could do a lot worse.
Although your choices for non-shit budget knives go up when you allow for non-folders as well.
https://www.amazon(DOT)com/dp/B001S86S54/ref=sxts_kp_lp_3?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=8778bc68-27e7-403f-8460-de48b6e788fb&pd_rd_wg=Wl3BF&pf_rd_r=DR6CPPD2H92MKBAFP603&pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-top-slot&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B001S86S54&pd_rd_w=veaKE&pf_rd_i=cold+steel+kudu&pd_rd_r=b5bba709-5dc6-490b-b3ed-c68fd2955557&ie=UTF8&qid=1539440355&sr=3
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f7268d No.616087
>>615934
>>616061
Ended up ordering an EKA Swede 10. Blade profile isn't quite what I was looking for but WOOD IS GOOD and the business end is made of 12c27 steel which has quite excellent edge retention (really excellent for the $30 I paid for it) and being as I was able to buy it from a local shop I can expect delivery in a couple days.
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408462 No.616248
>>587356
This is me. Something Steven Seagal would use in his movies.
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a4a66b No.616582
>>615840
I like this response very much. Sorry for coming off like a dick earlier.
While most of what I posted hinges off of personal experience and general consensus, talking about what "some people think" is not a source. So I went and dug up a few. The concepts of carbides and the data sheets that follow aren't lost on me – carbide tearout can be a real bitch to the unseasoned working on high-carbide steels – and I did indeed find material supporting a slight difference between M390 and S30V with the superiority leaning towards M390, but this is as you said: controlled. A layman may well not know the difference.
By the way, do you watch anything from Michael Christy on YouTube? I've found his sharpening videos to be pretty intriguing as far as alloy tests go. There are knife reviews, sure, but also cut tests between steels like S90V and 204P. A Mad Dog for your trouble.
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d517f8 No.616586
>>615731
>Take your pick. What's your price point and intended use? Some makers do certain styles better than others.
A kabar style of knife inspired by Von Tempsky in New Zealand.
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d517f8 No.616588
>>616586
Also price is about 400 - 600.
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dba3c6 No.616744
>>616354
I'm good for fixed blades, thanks.
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3a0f9e No.617172
Rate my gift, /k/. I don't know shit about knives but this sure feels nice to hold.
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3a0f9e No.617173
>>617172
When stood on its side, it looks like a small, knife-headed animal, which I find amusing.
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1cd978 No.617188
>>616582
yeah, I took notice of the guy back when I was really into Spyderco knives, that's how I got interested in the whole steel debate. In 2013 Spyderco was beginning to crank out a bunch of different steels, and I wanted to understand what was going on.
Then Spyderco started installing price floors in 2016 and 2017, and I got jaded and sold all my Spyderco knives because that really pissed me off. I then came around to the conclusion that the whole steel rat-race Spyderco started was just another marketing ploy. I also think Spyderco is trying to change the industry to steel as a focus because they expect locks and blade size to be banned in the near future, but that's just my hunch. In the meantime however the steel rat-race is definitely a marketing ploy.
I'm grateful to Spyderco for the steel interest in one respect because it forced other companies like Cold Steel and others to take steel seriously, which inevitably improved their products. On the other hand, I'm just really tired of sharpening these high-carbide steels and wouldn't mind a return to Earth. However, one reason why companies besides Spyderco are taking steel seriously is because they're trying to keep pace with Spyderco by using the same super expensive CPM steels and such, and thus they must pay extra attention to tempering integrity because of the cost of this new investment. If they move back to lower-carbide, and cheaper steels, what's stopping them from just shitting out more shitty tempering blades because they can afford it? That's the conundrum.
So at the end of the day, I prefer well tempered CTS XHP or S30V to shittily tempered 420HC or 1095.
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2ec1a7 No.617257
>When some survivalfag or oldfag tries to hate on modern stainless steels thinking they're the same as grandaddy's 440c
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2ec1a7 No.617259
Where can I get a mora-esque knife in a modern steel with a sharpening choil. Preferably a little thinner than most moras with a shallower grind. Maybe .100/2.5mm stock?
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1cd978 No.617393
>>617257
the main difference is the introduction of vanadium and niobium metals as alloying agents, and corresponding increases in carbon content. The result is larger and very hard carbides. The selling point is that the CPM process would neutralize the corresponding increase in brittleness, but that hasn't really occurred in knives given the peculiarity of edge apex. These modern stainless steels are designed primarily for industrial applications where sheer wear resistance is desired, not knives. S30V was the attempt to transition some of that modern thinking into the knife world, whereas S110V for example was intended to be purely an industrial steel and was then retconned back into the knife world because marketing.
440C has very large carbides and a good deal of carbon, it has a bout 1.1-1.2% carbon and 18% chromium. The notion that 440c sucks because it's old is bunco.
I prefer high-chromium, high-carbon, non or low vanadium steels like 440c, CTS-XHP, or D2 because IMO the vanadium carbide is just as brittle as the chromium when placed into the physical setting of a knife edge, and carbide tear-out with vanadium knives is severe without utilizing diamond abrasives. The carbide tear out occurs because the vanadium is harder than the abrasive you're using to sharpen the knife, so the abrasive cuts out all the iron surrounding the carbides, weakening the structure, and then your edge collapses when you do your first cuts. With chromium steels like 440C and XHP, you cut the carbides as well, so carbide tear out isn't really an issue unless you go with a ridiculously high chromium carbide steel like ZDP-189, then the sheer amount of carbide begins introducing the same issue. Michael Christy has also experienced carbide tear out in the ultra high carbon, high vanadium and niobium steels like S110V even when using advanced abrasives like diamond paste for his stropping.
So at the end of the day, if you want to use vanadium/niobium knives and unlock the full potential of their wear resistance, you have to use diamond plates and then diamond paste strops since DMT diamond plates have unique problems inherent in the way they process the diamond crystals used to populate the plate abrasives. Basically the diamond is so hard that the crushing and distribution of the diamond in preparation of laying them onto the plates begins to collapse at higher grits (starts at their extra-fine stone/plate) and is called "grit contamination." The diamond is so hard that at that grit/micron level, some of the diamond doesn't fully crush into the designed level, so you'll have sporadic big chunks of diamond grit on the plate interspersed with the advertised grit level, and until you grind those out all the way your edge will have microscopic serrations to the point of visible damage under a microscope and which can negatively affect edge retention. I've tried the extra-extra-fine DMT stone before new from the factory, and I did a first pass on the plate with a newly sharpened knife and my blade's edge was literally getting stick just trying to make a pass over the stone, it was ramming into the big chunks of diamond and I could feel and hear them popping off the stone. 3 hours of pure passing and I couldn't get the contaminated grit out. That's why Christy just goes straight to the diamond paste after his medium and fine diamond stones, I'm not sure if he is utilizing ceramics these days.
but yeah, way way more care and money and time is required to fully utilize those steels, and even then there's always the risk of chipping the edge out because the steel is so brittle. That's been a major problem with Maxamet. I just say fuck it and stay with the high chromium steels, which still give generous amounts of edge retention but without the bullshit.
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7dd1b4 No.617421
>>617393
I'm not implying that 440c sucks, I'm implying that they're implying that 440c sucks. The average survivalfag or oldfag has no concept of metallurgy and probably have no idea what vanadium or tungsten even does in a steel or if anyone adds it to steel at all. All they listen to is the age old wisdom of "A high carbon steel is best because the rest are brittle." usually referring to 1095 or 1080 or somesuch. As has been stated many times 440c can be an excellent knife steel given the right heat treatment, the issue usually comes around with the unfortunate connotations 440c has gathered over the years as a shitty chinese knife steel.
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be4453 No.617431
>>617257
Stainless steel is less malleable, this is never going to change. It makes it harder to sharpen, harder to repair, and easier to break.
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be4453 No.617436
>>617421
>high carbon steel is best
Even that is too brittle. Anyone talking about knife blades and spouting off about any one grade of steel being best is an idiot.
The best (and really only) way to do a knife is to use mild steel, then carburize for wear resistance, and maybe plate it for rust resistance. Making the entire blade of a solid block of any steel is stupid.
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7dd1b4 No.617437
>>617431
The difference is so incredibly minor that it's irrelevant. There have been countless examples of people using stainless steel knives for things that knives should not ever be used for. Like pounding it into a log and using it as a step. A well tempered stainless steel knife will be plenty tough while having higher edge retention and a higher viability in areas with large amounts of saltwater. The only reason anyone should use..say..1095 over a well tempered s30V or 440c or D2 is because of price.
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1cd978 No.617438
>>617421
>>617431
>>617436
stainless steels can be hard or soft, it just depends on how much carbon is in the alloy.
Same with "carbon" steels, which are just non-stainless. They can have little or a lot of carbon, and be soft or hard
"carbon steel" is just a marketing phrase, all steel has carbon. What determines hardness is how much carbon and how much and how many alloying metals are in the steel.
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7dd1b4 No.617444
>>617438
I know, I'm using these terms because these terms are what the people I'm referring to use anon. To them there is no distinction between different stainless steels. They are all brittle, while all high carbon steels are tougher. And by "high carbon" they mean steels such as 1080 and 1095 as I mentioned before. The point is common steels that are cited to be superior for survival usage such as 1095 and 1080 are not so much better or in many cases better at all for the purpose of survival than stainless steels.eeeeeeeeeeeeeee
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f7b1b6 No.617458
>>617431
>Stainless steel is less malleable
I'm not super knowledgeable on steels and metallurgy, but I even I know that's bullshit. In a lot of industries (gun barrels being the familiar one), 400-grade stainless steels are used specifically because they are softer and easier to machine.
>>617437
>>617438
Any of you anons care to give a brief run-down of the common steels used in knifemaking, and their advantages/disadvantages? I know 1095 is used a lot because it's cheap and holds an edge well, that's about it.
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be4453 No.617465
>>617458
>specifically because they are softer and easier to machine.
Than high carbon steels which would otherwise have to be used. It's a relative softness, not overall.
>>617438
>stainless steels can be hard or soft, it just depends on how much carbon is in the alloy.
Can a stainless steel be as soft as mild steel with carbon percentage under 0.1%?
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8d0ff1 No.617496
>>617458
Are you planning to make knives yourself? If so stick to 1095, O1, 1080, etc because highly alloyed steels are often hard if not impossible to properly heat treat at home. So unless you want to send your knives out to be heat treated for like $20 a pop (Which is a very real option!) then stick with the basics. Plus it'll be a good and cheap way to start.
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f7b1b6 No.617505
>>617496
>Are you planning to make knives yourself?
Oh no, not really equipped to do that. Interested mostly as a consumer, and I'm curious as to the metallurgical theory that determines what makes a steel "good" or "bad" for knives.
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8d0ff1 No.617519
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1cd978 No.617520
>>617458
>it's cheap and holds an edge well
1095 is used a lot mostly because it's cheap. Esee however uses it also because they feel like they can get a good mixture of edge strength and toughness at the 56 RC level. Ka-bar now does the same thing with 1095 in their Becker knives. The edge retention should be OK, 1095 is easy to grind and has very little carbide. From a survivalist perspective, these are desirable qualities; you want something that withstands impacts well and is easy to fix. Ultimately Esee could just as well have used 5160 which would I think be a better choice because 5160 has some degree of corrosion resistance and tempers well in the mid-upper 50's with outstanding toughness. Esee and Ka-bar likely still use 1095 simply because it has brand recognition. However, the much higher carbon content of 1095 allows it to be potentially hardened to a much higher rockwell level than 5160, to the mid-high 60's, and that kind of 1095 has much better edge retention than the survivalist temper. Joe Calton does that kind of 1095.
but the main knife steels used these day are VG-10, S30V, AUS-8. Spyderco has quite a few steels in rotation. Again, the main difference is carbon and carbide content. zknives.com has the data charts for all the different steels out there.
>>617465
I think the only stainless steels with less than .1% carbon are nitrogen based steels. These are relatively "soft" steels. But most mainstream stainless has at least .4% carbon. Carbides begin forming at around .6% and begin to grow exponentially after .8% carbon. 420j2 for example is a pretty soft stainless steel. However, whether or not the steel is "soft" after production is totally dependent on a company's tempering methods. Kershaw for example has chronically under-hardened steel, whereas Spyderco and Cold Steel have been pushing pretty high hardness tempering in their folders as of late, Cold Steel actually just started doing this three years ago when they introduced CTS-XHP and CTS-BD1 into their lineup after market pressure from Spyderco. I'm fairly confident that a Kershaw leek I own has perhaps a 50 rockwell hardness, so soft is it. Horrible edge retention though, but 14c28 is actually a proper knife steel, Kershaw just tempers it on the cheap because shekels.
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899008 No.617866
>>597317
Get a fucking life
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899008 No.617867
>>617866
>>597317
Nah I'm just kidding anon nice collection
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f7b1b6 No.619756
Multitools are knives, right? Just picked myself up a Swisstool after some chucklefuck nigger stole my Swisschamp out of the mail.
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a4a66b No.619819
I fucking hate that. There are tons of people out there who have lost their blades because of some mail issue. Either someone stole a package, or the carrier themselves decided to pull a fast one. Sad.
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3f0bd1 No.621746
>>619756
I'd say no, but the field of interest is basically the same. That thing looks damn capable.
There's something so appealing about a tool that can do many things in one, and it's not just limited to pocket tools.
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738ea6 No.621775
Ok OP here's one for you. I'm getting into diving and snorkeling and I sure as fuck ain't getting into the water without a knife that can't saw through an octopus tentacle or some shit. Need something small, 2-3 inch blade, and fixed. What would you recommend?
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3f0bd1 No.621808
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81abde No.622283
By the way, does anyone know anything about the special snowflake stainless that Victorinox uses for their knives, and how it compares to the other ones on the market?
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a743d7 No.623366
Apache Falcon. Best knife I've ever handled. Made by a tactical genius.
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7d138d No.623440
>>621775
Spyderco Ark. The blade is H1, a nitrogen-based steel, so it literally won't rust.
>>622283
Similar to 420HC. Not complete shit but otherwise unremarkable.
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b5376a No.624151
https://www.chefknivestogo.com/shaptonpro320x.html
I know shaptons are fairly nice stones, as a beginner with whetstones should I buy this stone or a cheaper lower grit stone?
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0a34ee No.626650
Are A&R Zlatoust knives good? I like some of their designs and the alloy they use is allegedly like 440C but with slavmagic and titanium added.
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5c8c4f No.626670
Just picked this bad boy up after getting my category B knife license.
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a4a66b No.626686
ZDP-189 was mentioned before, so I want to post a couple of Spydies featuring it. I think Spyderco runs them at a Rockwell of 64, but I'd love it if they ran a sprint run of their Para 3 in ZDP. The Para 3 has been a stellar carry piece so far.
Anyway, here's a Delica and a Stretch. I was pretty impressed with the ease at which TheApostleP was able to Spydie-flick the Stretch open despite being a backlock. I'm not terribly keen on backlocks as a rule; it's pretty dated tech compared to newer, more svelte innovations, and hails from a time when two-handed opening was the norm. I will concede, though, that it's a strong lock and great for innawoods shit.
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533a2f No.627265
>>626686
the spyderco endura 4 i bought about a year ago was incredibly chippy and it completely turned me off of the steel, although im not sure if that was because the steel is usually that brittle or if the nips gave it a bad heat treat
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533a2f No.627268
>>627265
i forgot to mention it was in zdp189
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3f0bd1 No.627353
>>626670
I thought category B only allowed blades of under 2 inches? Maybe it's different in australia but that's certainly the case here. Those serrations are definitely a big no no if you only have a category B in the UK.
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81a1b1 No.627393
Left: my everyday carry, it's sharp on both sides but that doesn't show well in the pic. It's a switchblade but it's technically spring assisted for international shipping purposes because it uses a switch and not a button (ironic)
Center: literally an inheritance from my Grandpa, as stereotypical as it gets
Right: does indeed have the Constitution of the US engraved into the blade, for when I have a freedom boner. Spring assisted.
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3e1a70 No.627476
>>627268
Whoa, really? What caused the blade failure, if you don't mind my asking?
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cadbe7 No.632625
Is the Wolverine GEK an acceptable survival knife? I think it uses 440A steel.
Initially the BK7 drew my interest but it's quite expensive here.
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524227 No.632626
>>632625
What do you want out of your survival knife? Eickhorn are mostly focused on tactical usage and not really for bushcraft or hunting.
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4a8b81 No.632641
>>632626
Yeah, the focus is on bushcraft but it should be a capable allrounder.
True, but this one’s designed as ‘German Expedition Knife’ despite the KM2000 grip.
The GEK Wolverine seems quite similar to the BK7 regarding size, weight and blade geometry.
I’d just get the Becker since it’s proven but it’s twice as expensive here as in the US, around 120€ whereas the Eickhorn is available for 75.
Pros for the 440A is that it’s less prone to rust but it’s also less strong, although I don’t know how much of a concern that is at 4,7mm thickness.
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524227 No.632870
>>632641
Ah, in the US eickhorn is very expensive. Although I would say reconsider still because the grip and blade shape aren't really what you want for carving at all, it's really impractical for that which is why knives like the bk or esee don't have hand guards at all. It's your choice but I would say look into lighter class knives even in the US I still wouldn't get an esee or bk because I personally just don't find the design that useful, jack of all trades master of none etc.
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56f016 No.633712
i need something good for self defence
and something that is not going to raise any eyebrows in ZOG occupied Spain
i dont wanna go to my local gunstore ask for a knife and then get asked for a licence or some shit
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3f0bd1 No.636015
>>633712
you dont need a licence to buy knives lad
just need to be over 18 and maybe have proof of ID
good luck
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461d40 No.637130
>>586407
Looking for a new daily driver. Don't really want to spend more than 100-150. Would like something durable, not liner locked or frame locked, and comparable to my Benchmade 940 Osborne. I love the blade style because of huge cutting edge. And the silver blade and green handles make it not too edgy and can be pulled out in front of anybody without people getting worried. Spydercos are aggressive looking and big. Basically looking for a decent gentlemen's folder in the 2.6-3.5 range that has a satin blade that won't rust within 2 weeks like everything else. I mind losing my Osborne and I would preferably like to buy a moderate knife I wouldn't mind losing just because at this point my Osborne has served me for almost 10 years and it's almost an heirloom at this point
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385f29 No.637510
You got any tips for sharpening? I think I do an ok job but any help is appreciated
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ee15a1 No.638958
>>611980
Sic semper tyrannis fellow demon frog.
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51c36b No.638959
>>633712
>license for a knife
If you took a butter knife and sharpened it, would you get arrested for having unregistered weaponry?
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de6e7b No.638980
>>637130
For that price point, I'd say one of the Benchmade axis-lock models would be your speed. The (mini) Boost and (mini) Barrage are my favorite models in that category but you could always look through Benchmade's website, apply some filters, and pick the one you like.
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94455a No.639013
So my girlfriend got this knife over Christmas, and it looks like an unfinished Emerson Mini CQC-15. There's no branding anywhere and there are some flats in the blade that should be polished but aren't. There's a blemish on the metal of the blade that makes me wonder if a shop employee swiped it out of the reject bin and made themselves a knife. How the person that gave it to her came by it I don't think I'll ever know.
The consensus seems to be that Emersons are pretty shit (assuming this is actually a real if unmarked Emerson) but it feels solid enough. The blade is pretty fucking sharp, I like the wave feature and the handle fits my hand pretty nicely. There was a lot of tuning required to actually get the detent bar to do its job and not let the blade swing right open with the lightest of flicks, and up until a few days ago the liner lock was really sticky.
If nothing else it's a free beater.
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9fa9d0 No.639038
>>639013
Yes a free $200 bester
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38d7f8 No.639988
>tfw push button knifes are extremely versatile and convenient
>tfw retarded laws mean I can't EDC the ones I have despite the fact they're the perfect knife for everyday shit
>tfw have to settle for shitty imitations of the real deal
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9ab642 No.640021
How do you feel about double-edged knives for combat? It seems obvious to me that two edges > one edge, so I was considering getting a cheap fixed-blade dagger for self-defense, but I know very little about them. Any drawbacks or other considerations?
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ef1100 No.640045
>>607348
I respect the bark river. The sent me a nice bravo Strike force related to pic related. Mine has mosaic rivets, though. It's held up nicely over the years through a lot of mountaineering. couldn't recommend the company enough.
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7d138d No.640048
>>639013
I'd bet it's a chinkshit counterfeit.
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eb764f No.640143
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eb764f No.640679
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eb764f No.640689
YouTube embed. Click thumbnail to play.
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b4fbe8 No.645245
If you think there is any such thing as a singular all-purpose knife, you are wrong.
Sure, you can get by with one, but getting by is not what I consider to be good enough.
What you NEED is one good serrated knife, one good non-serrated knife, and a shitload of cheap Chinese knives of both types for shit you don't want to ruin your good knives on.
Since OP is using the phrase "knife-related martial arts", I will end my input on this thread here, because he is obviously a teen from cuckchan.
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f7fd7c No.645585
Tell me some tacticool folders for edc. Looking for fullsize/large but not too chunky and heavy.
Is CRKT M series good? I want to try a Benchmade or Coldsteel but not sure which.
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1059ed No.645622
>>645585
I have the large folder w/tanto blade.
I am quite happy with it.
Fast, slick, sharp well made.
It cost me $119.00 + tax (got 15% off)
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f7b1b6 No.645645
>>645585
Depends what your budget is and what you want to do. I'm a big fan of Benchmade knives because of the Axis lock–it's both more secure than a liner/frame lock, and allows me to close the blade without sticking my fingers in the path of travel. Dunno too much about the M-series, but the designs look so hyperbolically tacticool that I'm turned off on them on that alone.
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5f0208 No.646040
YouTube embed. Click thumbnail to play.
And now for something different
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02d32f No.646053
Anyone have experience with both the AXIS lock and Spyderco's captive ball bearing? They seem like very similar systems, would be nice to know how they measure up in practice.
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c79d5a No.646946
It is so hard to find a decent blade that doesnt have a plastic or rubber grip. Might as well be a dildo.
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f7b1b6 No.646954
>>646946
Aluminum seems to be getting popular with a lot of the high-end makers.
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9fa9d0 No.646998
>>646946
Nothing wrong with decent quality g10 or similar.
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b93be1 No.647069
>>602584
>Not getting it in the army paratrooper version
Why even live anon?
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1e7199 No.651699
>>586461
>that can cut rope quickly in case I fuck up and need to drop something.
Just work on your knotwork and make a knot that easily releases while holding strong. Stop wasting rope.
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e171ff No.652403
What machete would you recommend for trimming down bushes in the yard?
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61e879 No.652519
>>652403
>What machete would you recommend for trimming down bushes in the yard?
Can't go wrong with the Mil spec Ontario made ones.
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f7b1b6 No.652675
Alright. The locking mechanism on one of my knives was a bit too stiff for my taste, so I took the knife apart, cut half a coil off the spring, and put it back together. Now the lock is great, but I've got a bit of blade play I'd like to get rid off. Did I just not tighten the axle enough (using an el cheapo bit drive, good set is in the mail), or is there something else that could be causing the issue?
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ca74b0 No.653207
YouTube embed. Click thumbnail to play.
Some anti-knife methods with an umbrella.
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12ef10 No.653764
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f7b1b6 No.654564
>>654563
These things? Keep in mind they are a little dated, prices no longer match up quite right and there have been new models released.
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0a34ee No.656225
ahoy /k/angs
Anyone have experience with Roselli, marttiini, or Fallkniven?
Looking to buy kitchen cutlery of all things from them. Leaning towards Roselli in particular because their UHC steel appears to be really fucking hard and well made for the price with a 5 year warranty. Is there anything special to a carbon steel knife beyond drying it, using the proper stone/steel, and occasionally oiling it or is that it?
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a88bf4 No.661073
YouTube embed. Click thumbnail to play.
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5247bb No.661103
I'm looking for something that will do fine in a self-defense situation but at the same time not get me in jail if I get searched. I expect europoor anons will have better recommendations for this. I was thinking of just carrying a usual multitool but I'm not sure if that's exactly good for attacking.
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1cd7e6 No.661110
>>661103
Your thinking is in the right place. But you don't need a blade to defend yourself with a multi tool. Get something that you can easily and safely grip while closed. Something good and long is better. And use it in a hammer blow motion with a bit of it protruding from your hand. No need to fiddle with opening, just grip and hammer it into a part of the body with bone not covered by too much muscle. Don't punch, hammer.
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98b8a1 No.661228
https://www.eickhorn-solingen.de/Eickhorn-Pacific-Stinger Its blade length is still legal in Germany and the price is quite good. Since the blade is thick, the edge does not cut well, but it's sturdy. The tip is sharp, so it's perfect for stabbing. Also has a fancy sheath. I have it with me wherever I go.
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9fa9d0 No.662278
>>652403
Tramontina is the best Ontario has shit handles.
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794b7d No.662336
>>656225
>occasionally oiling
>occasionally
The blade should be covered in grease at all times. Reapply after each time you wash them with soap.
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632f2d No.662338
Aa you can see from my flag, I don't live in the US. I need a boot knife. Something around 4 inches designed for combat. I liked a Smith & Wesson model. I can't pay more than $30 for the actual knife. Shipping isn't a problem, since I can redirect the package and have it for around $10.
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0a34ee No.662473
>>662336
Any preference for what kind of grease/oil? Will it still patina or stay the factory finish if oiled after every use?
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c5e38c No.662786
new addition. (spyderco byrd robin 2) intentionally got something that can fit in my palm.
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d41dd9 No.662825
>>662786
I fucking burst out loud laughing holy shit
Man or woman, that hand should only belong removed from a body, in a garbage beg behind some gay nightclub.
Use your spyderco to fix that problem
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3f33ba No.662826
>>588791
scrapyard knives aren't over priced, unless you don't value your time in how often you have to re-hone and re-sharpen your knife
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3f33ba No.662829
>>662426
>brass
hands smell like shit after minor use
>Dollar store Kitchen knives
nothing more dangererous then a dull knife, and that shit goes dull after each use. fuck off with your boomer logic.
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3f33ba No.662830
>>661110
this, or just carry a screwdriver like the niggers in NYC do.
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e6eb4a No.662834
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c8c0fa No.662914
>>586512
Been wondering qbout these, anyone here have one? Do you like it?
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33c946 No.663596
Hiya nuggets.
Got myself a (((Lansky))) Diamond 3 hone system, plus additional 1000 grit stone for better polishing. Tried to fix our cheap Ikea kitchen knife, and it was average (I didn't put a lot of effort into it). Tried to regrind my custom made huntah knoife to a thinner edge (25 degrees or so, the knoife was probably pre-ground at 120 grit belt with an angle of 40-45 degrees or so by the looks of it - steel is crmov with the numbers I don't remember, hardened to 58-60 internets) and it resulted in a better edge (however I feel that probably somewhere closer to the grip, the knife was not properly reground which I will correct at some point), but still nowhere near razor sharpness.
Would appreciate tips on the technique. What I did is used the coarse stone as file with filing back and forth motions to form a bevel, then ground a little with medium stone, both file-like and sweeping motions, and for the 600 grit diamond stone, I was only doing some sweeping motions inwards and outwards. Polished a little with 1000 stone in the end, but the edge still looks amateurish. Cutting test consisted of one slicing motion on a somewhat dried bread slice which it went through rather effortlesly, but for 100 bucks for the whole set I expected it to at least cut into one layer of reality fabric, and a toy tank steel tread.
I know the system is rather retard proof, still, for a better result I'd like to not acquire a shitty and incorrect way of sharpening.
I would imagine that 1000 grit is not fine enough, but I feel little to no need to go for a better edge. I also have a bar of chinese green compound, which I was advised to just put on a thick cardboard and use it as a stropping device - would also appreciate confirming / disproving the validity of this advice.
And the final question: the edge has been ground a little bit on the backside, but was overpolished to be extremely round and to not aid in piercing in any way - would I benefit from sharpening it for at least 2-3cm?
Thanks in advance.
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6f5739 No.663776
>>662786
So you live in Western Australia (Perth?) and use a VPN via Germany, and have a recent record of a Spyderco on your credit card. If that wasn't enough to dox you it is then photographing your tattoos certainly is.
Learn OPSEC. or live innawoods away from Mongolian finger painting forums and minecraft discussions.
Nice knife and phone https://www.gsmarena.com/oppo_a57-8468.php#australia by the way.
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47b814 No.663781
I have an Izula II, Spyderco Para3, CRKT Folts Minimalist, and a Spyderco ARK. I was thinking of getting one more knife with a longer blade for camping and hikes, but I can't seem to make a good decision.
My knife enthusiast friend recommended an ESEE 3 or 4, but he's also extremely loyal to that brand so I wanted a second opinion. Anyone have any suggestions?
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f7b1b6 No.663785
>>663781
How long is "longer"? Is an ESEE 3 or 4 as long as you want to go, or would you like to go up for something more like the Becker BK-7?
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47b814 No.663788
>>663785
I think the BK7 might be too long for me. Looks rather nice though.
The highest I'd be willing to go and still feel confident with would probably be around an ESEE 5, let's say up to 5.5 inches? Something that is still wieldy for carving and cutting, but can take more punishment. I only started getting into knives a couple years ago so I'd say I still have plenty to learn. I'm open to new ideas if you have any.
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45cac1 No.664068
>>663596
Sharpening anything boils down to creating a clean apex and optionally micro-beveling. Most never get a clean apex.
In good light look down on the edge. If you see a light line the continue sharpening until you don't. Use a couple of high passes to remove any burr then micro-bevel or move up a grit size.
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f7b1b6 No.664105
>>663788
If you're not going to be doing batoning or other heavy-duty chopping, that's probably more than enough blade length. You mention carving and slicing rather than point work, so I think you'll be best served by a drop-point knife with a nice big belly, rather than a clip point. The ESEE 5 looks good for that, but you could also look at the Ontario RAT 5. Very similar knives, with same blade length, micarta scales, 1095 steel, and I believe both come with a kydex sheath (you might need to check that). Difference is that the Ontario has a full-flat grind, which will give you a more gentle angle that's better for slicing, while the ESEE has a saber grind. The saber grind has a beefier spine that makes it stronger, but since the grind starts closer to the blade, the angle is much sharper, which means it isn't quite as good for slicing. Whichever one is more price-competitive seems to change from one month to the next, so if budget is a concern be sure to shop around a little for both–and remember, if you see a price that's a lot lower, double check to see if it comes with all the same accessories.
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ecac8d No.664121
>>663788
Take into consideration the blade thickness. Like carrying a sharpened pry bar around. Have a BK2, but almost never use it because of the weight and poor slicing. Easy for me to take hatchet and small knife to do both tasks efficiently. Same with the esee 5 as I think it's 1/4 inch thick. Just ordered the laser strike, but the bk16 is similar enough.
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d71c77 No.664307
>>664105
>>664121
Appreciate the advice. I didn't even think to factor in blade thickness. Definitely important for heavier jobs.
Considering everything you've both told me, I think my main options are the ESEE 5, RAT 5, or maybe the Fallkniven F1/S1 if I manage my budget appropriately. The ESEE is the thickest, but there's something about the Fallkniven knives that draws me to them. There are variants with a black coating, but they're VG10 steel anyway so it seems pretty redundant aside from looks. Might go that route, but the black will obviously wear down over time in that case.
I'd rather stick to moderate work instead of chopping and hacking at something. My PM3 is already rather heavy and could take that kind of punishment, but if I want to chop something then I'll buy a hatchet or a full on machete instead.
I've got a hike through Canada coming up in a few months so I guess that'd be its real test.
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8d0eb7 No.666633
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9b5c28 No.666723
>>616582
On https://knifeinformer.com/discovering-the-best-knife-steel/ CPM-S110V is not in the Edge Retention graph, ZDP-189 is not in the Hardness graph, and H1 is not in the Corrosion Resistance graph.
The author cut out the top-most performers of those three graphs.
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ddfcd5 No.666884
Not seeing anything here for throwing knives. I used to have a set of hiben knives that I liked. It was basically 3 utility knives that I could cycle through to keep my cuts clean, with the added bonus of being able to lob them should I ever find myself in a desperate situation. Was considering getting some more, and thought I'd check to see what the streloks were recommending.
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9fa9d0 No.671724
I'm trying to sharpen a glock knife and can't seem to get it to take a nice edge, the grind seems very uneven and this seems to be common looking online, should I bother trying to get it sharp? it's just for stabby anyway.
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42463c No.671752
>>611980
I got one with the kydex sheath, but I do not like the grip on my sensitive bitch hands, I much rather prefer the LMF2 (I bought one when they had started making them with different steel, so it is unclear if I actually got the AUS8 iirc or the Swedish import steel edition that was in their inventory at the time). The grip is heftier, and the partial tang designed for cutting through live wiring can be helpful.
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42463c No.671753
>>666884
At one point you could buy a pack of like 10-15 throwing knives on amazon for $30
If you break or loose one they are cheap to replace, and you are throwing it anyway, so if it bounces and gets messed up you are not out a lot of money. TBH it is just a pointy piece of metal, and you can throw anything with weight and a point and get it to stick.
I would say look at
>price per knife
>weight
>size
>avoid zombie meme knives
I remember SOG used to sell a pack at big box stores, but the reviews on their website seem poor or mixed/
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a230ba No.671763
>>662473
>Any preference for what kind of grease/oil?
I use Wahl clipper oil because it's a bit thicker than most mineral oils.
>>671724
I had problems with mine too, but I think it's just because I suck at wet stones.
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b85658 No.673527
I'm looking for a quality pocket knife for defense/fighting.
It needs to be :
- low profile, slim.
- Have any kind of quick opening system.
- Ideally have the blade automatically locked when opened.
Maybe I want a butterfly knife (I suppose it can be used even when the handles aren't locked together, idk, I have never had one in my hands), but im not certain.
Any recommendation?
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ea6dab No.673536
Invidious embed. Click thumbnail to play.
>>673527
You asked about locking knives specifically so I'll answer that as well as I can, but you should always keep in mind that folding knives are suboptimal for a self-defense scenario. The locking mechanism is a potential weak point that can snap under stress, and full-tang fixed blades are almost always preferred. With steel liners and a strong modern locking system like the compression lock, the captured ball bearing lock, or the Tri-Ad, this is very unlikely. However, no matter how advanced a locking system gets it will never be stronger than a full tang. Also, unless you have some fighting skill with a knife, it's generally suggested that you go with a collapsible baton for defense rather than a blade. All that being said…
>Have any kind of quick opening system.
>Ideally have the blade automatically locked when opened
Butterfly knives are a meme; they're only good for showing off your l33t knife flipping skills and most don't even lock. For what you're looking for, I'd suggest looking into the Emerson Wave line of knives, or one of the Spyderco knives which licenses the Wave feature. As in the video, these have a little hook on the spine of the blade which snags your pocket as you take out the knife, and automatically opens it as you draw. This is arguably faster than even automatic knives, as rather than having to press a button, the knife is already open and ready by the act of taking it out of your pocket. If none of the Wave knives are to your liking, you can get a similar effect by taking a Spyderco knife and attaching a zip tie to the hole (see pic in next post). Generally, what you're looking for in a fighting knife is a spear-point blade with either a flat grind or a hollow grind–a nice thin blade that's good for stabbing.
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ea6dab No.673537
>>673536
Poor man's Emerson Wave. You can find the baton instructions here >>596973 if you go that route. Ignore the shilling for Benchmade in that post, they're a trash company that doesn't respect gun rights.
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0e8976 No.673565
>>654564
Reading through your list, I find that it has Tor NL1 as best innawoods for uber money. One time I got really stupid one night when I had a bunch of extra cash and was on a binge of buying nice things for a lifetime and I bought one. In fact its so expensive I really don't even like touching the thing, but it seems to be an extremely good knife so far. Glad to know I bought /k/'s recommendation after all when burnhing that kinda money. Fuck me.
Anybody use their Tor NL1 more aggressively than me and have any advice/knowledge to drop on me? If I should be a bit more aggressive, or do I want to chip my super fucker knife?
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237121 No.673837
>>673536
>You asked about locking knives specifically so I'll answer that as well as I can, but you should always keep in mind that folding knives are suboptimal for a self-defense scenario. The locking mechanism is a potential weak point that can snap under stress, and full-tang fixed blades are almost always preferred. With steel liners and a strong modern locking system like the compression lock, the captured ball bearing lock, or the Tri-Ad, this is very unlikely. However, no matter how advanced a locking system gets it will never be stronger than a full tang. Also, unless you have some fighting skill with a knife, it's generally suggested that you go with a collapsible baton for defense rather than a blade. All that being said…
Yeah, I just need a pocket knife as backup in case I can't carry or reach my full tang knife.
As full tang I'm looking for a fighting/utility knife like they use in the military, the Glock knife, Ka-Bar knives and the KM-2000/3000/5000 are all appealing and if they are good enough for actual military use they are probably good enough for me as well, so it'll depend of how much money I want to spend on that. The KM's are probably my favorites, the KM-5000 should be the best for fighting but it's also the most expensive of all the KM's.
>I'd suggest looking into the Emerson Wave line of knives, or one of the Spyderco knives
I'll look into them. Thanks for the help.
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489831 No.674042
>>586905
Nice, I have the type 1 akm
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47d04c No.674322
Recently a German magazine for women featured an article about how to treat a stab wound, can anybody identify the knife from the article?
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b2c7d4 No.674324
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47d04c No.674326
>>674324
That just a clean scan of the article, but fine here is a cut out of that knife.
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ea3c5d No.674365
>>674326
Obviously the hand holding the knife is white.
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9a4eb2 No.674438
>>674324
Not all criminal foreigners in Germany are brown and its a magazine for bored upper class housewife who gget enrichment from TV and art exhibitions.
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d0272c No.676620
Do knuckle dusters give you a tactical advantage?
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5add40 No.676626
>>676620
Massive advantage, but obviously it makes the blade awkward to hide
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ee8bcb No.676632
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237121 No.676638
>>676632
makes more sense now
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a8ef6d No.676640
>>590598
I've one of those myself. Decent knife for the price and doesn't get a second look since it's safety orange. Sharpens up well after use.
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d0272c No.676644
>>676626
How so? I thought stabbing or even slashing is better than hitting, except if you fight an armoured opponent. Mind you, I'm not doubting your words, and they obviously made such knives for both world wars, I just can't imagine how it would work in practice.
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2db626 No.676653
>>640143
I have first pic. Not bad for $13 at a minecraft convention
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01aa56 No.676680
Is s110v a meme? Should I just ignore it, or are the advantages over other knife steels worth considering?
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e49d9e No.676910
>>676644
Another form of attack
Extra hand protection
Even harder to disarm
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80dda3 No.676990
>>676680
Depends what you mean by meme. It is legitimately moar bettar than other steels in hardness and edge retention. However, you could probably do without the benefits and some midrange steel would fulfill the your needs almost as well for a better price. But that could also be said of those other steels over chinesium—if you sharpen, often, rehone often, and keep them lubed and water-free, the latter could serve most your needs as well, so long as you don't baton wood or otherwise beat the crap out of the knife.
Really, it comes down to two things: how much do you value your time, and how long do you want to go without maintenance/replacement. Some people are okay with spending an hour a week on sharpening, others want to stretch that to a few times a year. If you never spend more than a few days at a time in the field and aren't prepping for SHTF, durability matters less as you can always buy another shit knife for pennies. But if you want something that lasts, and won't immediately become a rusty butter knife if you miss the maintenance, dropping shekels on premium steel is better.
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01aa56 No.676993
>>676990
I guess it really does come down to that. Thanks for replying, anon.
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db8054 No.677492
>>673565
bump i'm thinking of buying an NL1 as well. Have you had to sharpen yours? How did that go?
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265f0c No.677660
I have a Mora Kansbol and a Buck 110. Is there anything I'm missing in terms of versatility?
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be6b00 No.678037
I'm traveling to Finland in August to help my and thinking of buying a Puuko while I am there. Any recommendations on what size and maker? Money isn't a huge issue, but ideally nothing over 200 Euros. I'll be doing plenty of bush work for my uncle while there, but I really just like the aesthetics and want a good daily use fixed blade puuko
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be6b00 No.678039
>>678037
I apologize for the sperg like sentence structure and typos.
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5f15ef No.680830
>>673527
Can't go wrong with a decent length modern stiletto. Although they're kinda thick because of the automatic opening. I'd recommend looking into the Boker Plus Urban Trapper [medium or Grand size] but those are just nicely made pocket knives, not really for fighting.
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65ce12 No.680875
Anyone try a seax knife.
Any good makers/online shops for one?
Traditional handle so no bras or endcap on it and not too big so you can carry it on a kit. Also with a brokeback style blade.
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cef185 No.680876
>>680830
Reminder that despite stilettos having a bad reputation for being "weak", the reality is that they're never going to break by stabbing someone, even if you hit a bone. They're not meant to cut wood, so if you use them as a survival knife then yes they're trash and their mechanism will fail, but as a self-defense knife they're great.
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cd9c9e No.681059
Best full tang knife to start out with?
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c2e1b0 No.681105
>>680876
I guess it's the same with butterfly knives, they are good enough to stab people.
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6e73d2 No.681344
>>586791
I suggest something more borin but functional.
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8e9d53 No.681390
What should I be aware of about old timer schrade knifes? I got a folding pen knife and sharpfinger one as a gift from christmas.
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87e50c No.682299
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87e50c No.682300
>>663596
Not retard proof, very easy to screw up. Lansky is a very primitive, crude, straightforard system. Should have bought the Spyderco sharpener, easier to use.
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157565 No.682487
>>661228
Which company out of Solingen is the best for full tang legal knives in Germany?
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0e8976 No.682902
>>677492
I haven't given mine the full run through, just light stuff and even cutting onions for cooking in the cabin. Haven't had to sharpen it yet, I suppose I need to get busy actually using it intead of babying it because its expensive.
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a819aa No.682904
where can i buy knifes from exotic materials? like, i would want one made out of bronze, or from smoothed stone, or from shark tooth
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6e4e59 No.683562
>>676620
I think im gonna get the Chaos Bowie from Cold Steel, it looks good.
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8ce2a2 No.683563
>>683562
>cold steel maymay knoife
Why? Just get a decent bowie somewhere else.
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8983df No.683566
>>683563
Why would I do that though?
This one looks fine. I should avoid it just because it's Cold Steel?
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ea6dab No.683567
>>683566
Because a Cold Steel knife will likely demand a much higher price than an equivalent competitor just because it's Cold Steel. People with good taste also find their tactical marketing extremely cringey, but if you have bad taste this might not apply to you. Becasue of these two facts, unless you're getting something that is offered only by Cold Steel and nobody else, such as the Tri-Ad lock, there's not much reason to buy anything from them.
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9fa9d0 No.683569
>>683567
What do you mean man? Cold steel are generally affordable products and if care about their marketing enough to drop and otherwise great company that makes you a cuck. Cold steel offers full size s35vn folders for like a hundred bucks, that's a way better deal than spyderco, Benchmade, or many other big brands.
>>683566
Tbh if I were you I'd get a different cold steel or condor, thsie trench knives are pretty fucking heavy.
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8983df No.683570
>>683569
Heavier than a regular tactical knife, but since I was tempted to add a sword to my belt, I might as well go for something that is easier to carry and go with a big knife instead.
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96c890 No.683770
>>586791
there was a utility knife (replacable blade) folder like this that i wanted to get but i forgot what it was.
any ideas? want a beater with a replaceable blade for opening boxes, mail, cutting paper, daily chore stuff i dont want to use my good knife on.
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c84419 No.683843
>>683770
Most tool companies have something like this and you can pick them up at like any hardware store.
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ea6dab No.683848
>>683569
Perhaps things aren't quite the same now as they were before, or there's a smaller price difference on some classes of products compared to others. When I was last shopping for a knife, Cold Steel's options were ~40 burgerbux more expensive than the other models I was looking at.
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96c890 No.684120
>>683843
yeah but… i want a good one
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a52c66 No.685304
>>683562
Do you guys know any other Bowie or big knife with a blade around 10 inches long and with a black coating? Ideally with a "tactical" plastic sheath.
All I found so far is that cheap Kershaw 10" knife but it's not a Bowie and it has a big belly so it's not great for stabbing and combat overall.
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ea6dab No.685305
>>685304
The Becker BK-9 sounds like what you want. It doesn't come with a Kydex sheath but there are a lot of options on the aftermarket.
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44dc06 No.685352
is there a knife i can reasonably get that has a 90deg point? i want a chisel-like tip, point for slicing thin materials accurately with a straightedge, blade for cutting rope and heavier sheeting. and some serration at the base for small branches or more stout materials
>>586439
a pair of scissors you dumb nigger. preferably safety scissors.
are you planning to do bic pen trachs or something?
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0c3652 No.685697
All you need is a Cold Steel knife tbh.
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c17679 No.686009
>>685697
Imagine the daily barbecues at that place.
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ea6dab No.686200
Thoughts on Spyderco's new snowflake locking system? I'm always glad to see departures from liner locks, but I'm not sure what advantage this holds over the captured ball bearing. The latter has fewer small parts and a beefier locking system.
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68e2b9 No.687145
Pic related for 'killing other people wearing thick clothing' purposes. Come winter and slashing is less useful due to the coats people wear. Not much utility value but has a clear advantage over most modern style knives, which are generally too short. Traditionally this knife was often held in an icepick grip when fighting heavily armoured opponents and also because it is quicker to draw that way, carried on the right side of the body if right handed, better for grappling, and provides stronger defence against swords and clubs etc. One of the tricks to using in an icepick grip is to flick your wrist back and shoot it forward, relaxing all but the index finger and thumb (like you are making an OKKK sign). This allows for quick jabs and removes the 'slowness' that the icepick grip is often criticised for.
Blade 12", total 16.5"
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60f4c5 No.687148
>>687145
>Pic related for 'killing other people wearing thick clothing' purposes.
Meh, I would just use a ball-peen hammer.
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68e2b9 No.687149
>>687148
I saw a video of a fella getting hit about a dozen times with a hammer and he was still standing. Nothing wrong with them inherently and they don't have an edge to maintain, but a dagger like that is surprisingly fast and has more stopping power in a sense: a hammer blow anywhere but the head likely won't incapacitate your attacker, but shove a foot of dagger anywhere near his centerline and he's had it, and will be down in seconds. A dagger like that is big enough to reach his heart if you stab him in the belly, or to get a double lung penetration from the side.
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60f4c5 No.687150
>>687149
Care to post that video?
I reckon a good hammer hit in the head, lung or heart can knock someone else. Then again, I'm loving blunt weapon lately.
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68e2b9 No.687151
>>687150
>heart
Based. A good right hand can work there as well, obviously not as often as a hammer would. Yeah, blunt weapons are very underrated, I'm just playing 'devil's advocate' a bit, though I do think it is easier to pierce thick padding than smash your way through it.
Yeah, this is the video, seems like I was massively exaggerating (I saw it ages ago and only watched it again now). The hammer works very well on second watch, 2 or 3 blows. From wherever I got it I do remember the comments insisting the man survived, but that would be easy to correct if you held the hammer yourself.
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60f4c5 No.687153
>>687151
That vid is pretty conclusive, all I can say.
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68e2b9 No.687154
>>687153
This one is good as well, for the other side of it. Gets the knife half way through the video, stabs him and the fella is down and out a few seconds and few yards later.
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01611c No.687157
>>687151
>that sound when it hits the back of the head
Now that's pure kino
>>687154
Benefit of a hammer over the knife is that a knife is going to be seen as a weapon very easily, both by courts and your opponent. A hammer is relatively easy to explain in many situation. Just put a toolbox in your car and say you often do handymen stuff for friends.
And, as seen in the >>687151 vid, a guy can obviously have a hammer and his opponent isn't even on alert. Try doing that with a knife. (knife guy had his concealed in a handkerchief, probably a good idea)
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374f13 No.687159
>>687153
>>687149
>>687151
That hammer has a lot going against it. It's actually a mallet from the looks of it, and it has a very short handle. What this does, is it provides very little inertia, and has a very wide head to distribute impact with. He's basically just hitting a dude with what looks like a 2lb rock (that's more holdable).
If you want a great "impromptu" hammer for self defense, framing hammers are where it's at: reach, metal handle with a wedge design lowers wind resistance, makes overreaching still very damaging, harder for the assailant to grapple out of your hand, the lower handle is contoured and has great grip that works even with sweaty/bloodsoaked hands, the back side is superior to a claw hammer for impact angle, and the head is smaller which puts that force into a much smaller area - making any hit a disabling hit.
All that aside, that assailant was done after the first hit. The second hit ended the fight, and the third hit ensured the nigger stayed long after the guy left, and anything past that was because it was a nigger using it.
>>687154
That's a pretty big knife…I would say that's a dirge or even a dagger at that point, so yea, it's gonna fucking put a person down fast.
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60f4c5 No.687160
>>687159
Man, that hammer design is basically the military warhammer design in medieval era.
It's great then and great now. Put it on a shaft and you got an awesome polehammer.
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68e2b9 No.687162
>>687157
Right on both counts.
>>687159
>>687160
I've recently acquired a mace. A small bronze (or brass) head so it swings like a stick, but concentrates the force very well and can hit from all angles. Very handy but the tool explanation obviously won't work. I've got mine mounted on a shaft just over 1 inch diameter and around 2.5 foot long. If you exercise forearms it's fine to use one or two handed.
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68e2b9 No.687164
>>687160
Here's a nice club for the connoisseur.
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60f4c5 No.687168
>>687164
I prefer the modern version tbqh.
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d0d996 No.687171
>>687160
There are better hammer designs for the purpose of wrecking people, but they reach a point where trying to explain it as defending yourself with a tool becomes very questionable: a mason's hammer is probably one of the best tools for this task: has good weight, nice hammer design, with a chisel on the back end, with the same curve as a framing hammer. You can get them with a longer handle than most hammers as well, but typically framing hammers have the most weight potential for a true hammer setup. Unless you're a mason, or have an aleibi that you just got done helping your friend/family member redo their patio - good luck explaining why you have it.
Geological hammer: it's a small smashy head paired with a pick. Pick head has a great contour, and is focal enough to easily penetrate a skull/torso. Caveats: small handle, light weight, and no way in hell you're gonna convince anyone you just so happened to be carrying one at the scene.
I'd recommend buying some carpenter's pants: they have a holster on the thigh for a hammer tool. You can comfortably carry your hammer around in the open without too many questions, and it's readily accessible if you need it. Pair this with a blue collar job, and you have a pretty strong defense in the courts.
>>687162
I know you're probably just enjoying the fun of having a mace, but they do make sledgehammers, strelok. I've got a 6lb and 8lb sledge that I've put a lot of miles on. Granted, the setup is 2 handed, but you could easily get a 2-4lb head, and put it on a smaller handle. I don't quite get how a rounded handle is gonna give you any advantage over an optimized oval handle. I know you said "strike from any angle", but flicking your wrist to strike inwards or outwards with the head almost completely defeats the point of kinetic energy transfer a standard swing is going to give you. It might stun them, or confuse them a little, but you're not fighting someone who's gonna have a realistic counter to a club anyways so just stick to the tried and true hits. Even if you fuck up, you still will have them on the ropes, whereas a fuckup with a flick attack can mean disarming yourself from hyperextension, or being disarmed because you didn't deliver enough energy fast enough, and now your assailant is grappling the weapon or hand.
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68e2b9 No.687173
>>687171
Yeah. I have got popeye tier forearms to be fair, probably my best trait physically, so I can never worry about losing it, thrusts are also very good. It's funny that you mention sledgehammers since I train with them specifically, do you know the sabre cuts? Like diagonal each side, horizontal etc. I just do them with a sledgehammer one handed so now when I use a mace or club one handed it is extremely easy. By any angle imagine holding the mace out straight in front, since it has 4 sides of equal weight and a round handle it can be swung left, right, up, and down readily. So it basically needs no alignment or change or position at all and it hits like a weapon far heavier than itself, on account of the quite pointy projections. Bear in mind though that hitting in 'any direction' applies more for a two handed use, one handed use requires a bit more motion to generate the power, so hits are best coming from above to the top of the head or against the temples, I wouldn't get fancy if I used it like that.
You are right though, since nowadays you need 'killing' weapons not 'fighting' weapons. 99.9% of people in modern times have no training with weapons so all the advantages in timing, counters, blocks etc. are less important. Anything does the job though, I tapped myself on the head with a bowling pin once, that would kill a man.
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60f4c5 No.687174
>>687173
The weapons of modern day street fight are weapons that don't look like weapons.
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237121 No.687355
Is there a budget sharpener that is decent?
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ea6dab No.687372
>>687355
How budget is budget? The Spyderco Sharpmaker is pretty cheap for the quality of edge you can get with it.
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01611c No.687394
>>687355
Learn how to use a sharpening stone. I have a double-sided one with 600/1000 for 13€ and it's all I'll ever need, aside from a sharpening rod.
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ea3c5d No.687407
>>687372
Yeah it looks great but it costs like 75€ here :(
>>687394
Looks like that's the solution, thanks.
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ee8429 No.687823
>>610732
When stabbing you want a sharp edge on your weapon so that it penetrates more easily and, more importantly, cuts any organs/arteries etc. as it goes past them, instead of pushing them out of the way.
>>685697
Their steel quality is actually very good, I've got one of their spears, stabbed it through metal, thrown it through inches of wood and all kinds without any trouble.
>>687168
Come on mate you're just being a contrarian fag now. 'I prefer an awkward piece of pipe over a handcrafted, beautiful, and well balanced weapon'. Fuck off.
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9be9ac No.687825
Is there a kind of sabre(-like weapon) with a curved blade that has its tip inline with the hilt? In other words, it curves downward from the hilt, then comes back up. I vaguely remember something like this, but I can't find it.
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01aa56 No.687840
>>686200
Suppose they both prevent accidental finger severing equally, would the simpler design not be better? Fewer moving parts also means a lower chance for failure.
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ea6dab No.688028
>>687840
Right, that was my take as well. I could see the reasoning behind going for a compression lock, since although it's a little weaker that CBBL, it's easier to activate and is great for flipper knives. This new one doesn't seem to have a particular advantage over the much simpler CBBL.
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bd85d5 No.689601
If you want something that actually cuts and holds an edge get a Phil Wilson custom in K294 or 10V. Best knife you'll ever own.
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