No.52
Post about electronics, soldering, troubleshooting and interesting circuits
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No.53
This circuit is good for numerical displays
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No.56
4chan's /diy/ has had some good threads on this, well worth looking at
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No.713
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No.714
This site has a lot of interesting circuits;
http://uzzors2k.4hv.org/
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No.724
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No.766
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No.767
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No.867
This website seems pretty cool.
http://yone2.net/
Its a spartan 3 fpga dev board.
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No.868
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No.872
I made an AM radio with a kit from radio shack when I was 10 or so. That was interesting.
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No.873
>>872
Do you still have it? I remember wanting to make a radio in my grade 10 electronics class, but I never got the time to.
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No.874
>>872
>>873
AM radio's are pretty easy to get into
You can make a simple crystal radio that doesn't require batteries but gets the energy to work through the antenna
>>732
They can either be tunable (by changing capacitance or inductance) or they can be tuned to specific frequencies like the circuit in pic related
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No.882
A Bipolar 12V power supply I've been working on a bit. The plan was to use this to power a synthesizer I'm trying to build.
This is what I've done so far, I want to change a few things around though, like adding a fuse on the secondary and changing some of the capacitor values. This design is mains earth referenced, so be careful if you decide to test it with an oscilloscope.
I might upload the gerber files once I'm completely done with the design.
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No.883
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No.884
>>882
Actually, I'm not the most knowledgeable about mains power, I think I might just be using the neutral instead of the ground as a reference point, so it should be safe.
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No.885
Power supplies vary a lot but they generally have these diodes and capacitors to protect against spikes and surges from the mains.
Many of them also have other kinds of protections to protect the user from the mains power.
Tesla supposedly figured out a way to make mains harmless by upping the frequency to the point that the electricity just travelled on the outside of conductors via a "skin effect". But most mains today use 50 or 60 hertz, which is hazardous if not deadly.
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No.886
>>885
That seems a bit unpractical. Where did you read about this from?
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No.887
>>886
I read some articles about that. They may be buried in my files somewhere but I looked up tesla skin effect and found this; https://teslauniverse.com/nikola-tesla/articles/cold-fire
This is something that might be used in the future but Id very much like to see a good circuit for that
Cold fire bunny is very fuzzy
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No.888
>>885
>Many of them also have other kinds of protections to protect the user from the mains power.
One of the ways to do that is with an optocoupler;
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Opto-isolator
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No.890
>>887
Ahh, that makes a bit more sense, I was thinking about it in the wrong way.
Lol, a 20kW dry bath sounds a bit inefficient. I'm pretty sure that's more than what gets delivered to houses over here.
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No.893
Revision 2. I think I'm happy enough to be able to send these off to get manufactured, I'll see how it turns out.
C8 should be 22uF instead of 10uF, but I don't have any 22uF capacitors, so yeah.
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No.894
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No.895
>>894
I just realised I probably should have shown the tracks on the bottom side.
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No.896
I modified an atx computer supply which I'm using as a bench supply
Computer supplies like that are generally switched-mode supplies;
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Switched-mode_power_supply
The circuit for it is a bit more complicated since its following industry standards but its basically doing a similar thing but with more outputs and its also isolating the circuit the best it can from the mains to prevent spikes/surges and also protect the user.
For this its using multiple transformers. There's also an integrated circuit which helps maintain the output voltages on some of the terminals with a feedback loop.
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No.897
>>896
Yeah switched mode supplies are nice, but linear ones are simpler and don't high the high frequency switching noise.
Well, I have an exam today about switched mode power supplies, so I hope I've learned my stuff.
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No.898
>>897
That's true, it often also depends on what the power supply is to be used for which type works better.
Switched-mode supplies also make some noise in terms of electromagnetic interference, so it can sometimes be an issue for communications or sensitive leads and devices (from what I've read).
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No.899
>>898
I know that you're using that flyback converter for your HV lifter experiments, but have you designed any other switched mode supplies?
The first PCB I designed in CAD/properly manufactured was a buck converter for a university assignment. It worked, but it did have a little problem with the overcurrent protection not kicking in at 1A. It was pretty bad, they didn't really teach us anything about PCB design or buck converters, so I basically just had to try the best I could. I've learned a lot since then at least.
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No.900
>>899
I haven't really designed power supplies or made any pcbs for them. I just modified the outputs of an atx computer power supply to use as a bench supply. For the flybacks I found some schematics online that I maybe altered slightly. I haven't made pcbs for those either, just put them on breadboards or soldered the parts together.
I designed and made a pcb based on a schematic for a PIC microcontroller while I was studying in technicial college, which could be programmed with a PIC programmer.
The finished thing had a numpad on it and you could press the buttons to have it run specific things and it would display information on a small lcd screen with numbers/letters/symbols only.
The pcb had a green solder mask that I applied myself (which was quite a process). The circuit and everthing worked fine when I was done with it.
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No.903
>>900
I remember you showing off your modified power supply, it was so much better than my idea. I'm jealous. I still have two other power supplies left, so maybe I'll make something similar to what you did. I've been kinda wanted to get a 3d printer one day actually, so maybe I'll make a proper replacement case one day instead. This one I've been showing off, I want to try and integrate into a case to power a product, so a giant power supply wouldn't really work here.
I've never integrated any microcontrollers onto of my PCBs, nor applied any soldermask, was it just the cheap stuff you can get in a tube and then UV cure it? Just wondering, what made you want to try and apply soldermask yourself? Do you still have the PCB with you? I see this is the reason why you would always mention PICs when referring to microcontrollers
The first PCBs were made in my year 10 highschool electronics class, it was definitely one of my favourite highschool classes, and the reason why I chose to study electronics. They were made by drawing out the circuits with a marker and then putting them into an etching tank and drilling out the holes myself. I still have them around, I might take a look at them again just to try and remember the things that I've done.
This is a picture of that buck converter I made last year.
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No.904
>>903
I think I still have the PCB but I don't know where it is. I also made a 3d printed container for it that I designed myself. Its in 2 parts which snap together.
The solder mask got a bit messed up on one side in the process I think. It can be difficult to get it right when doing it manually for the first time and I only did it that one time.
This is a photo I shared of it while I was working on it, later on it also had a tuning wheel from the hole and markings for the switches and things below the screen
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No.910
>>904
Oh wow, that looks pretty nice, what software did you use to make it? I actually didn't know you could 3d print cases to just snap in without screws, is there anything special in designing it that way?
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No.911
>>910
I used sketchup to make the 3d models, there was an stl plugin for it. There was a program with the 3d printer that converted the stl into gcode; http://slic3r.org/
To make it snap together just make edges that can overlap one another tightly, knowing the way the 3d printer prints it and the right dimensions of the 3d model is important. It shouldn't be too tight because then it can break but sometimes the print can warp and not fit tightly enough because of temperature differences while printing so it can take some experimenting and tweaking the printer settings like for the extruder and/or the printbed.
There are lots of different ways to /diy/ a 3d printer, I've seen arduino's used to make them work and they can be made relatively cheap but the extruder is usually a bit expensive or difficult to make.
http://reprap.org/wiki/RepRap_Options
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No.1165
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No.1167
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No.1259
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No.1278
Circuit wired up on breadboard for 10 segment displays
(for predator inspired wrist computer) using arduino nano to control 40 LED's
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No.1279
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No.1280
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No.1281
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No.1303
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No.1304
>>1278 >>1279 >>1280 >>1281
It counts now and can work like a simple clock
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No.1305
>>1304
These are the number codes
If you look at seven segment displays and look at those numbers they would seem pretty random for someone who doesn't know the number representations, I mean there are only 7 segments there but we use them for a 10 number system.
This one could also be used with individual segments representing the 10 digits from 0 to 9 so it offers a lot of options. Since it has 10 segments it also effectively works as a new sign language, since we have 10 fingers
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No.1414
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No.1439
Had issues with ventilation, so I started working on a solder fume extractor
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