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don't be a faggot

File: d2aa305efabb52b⋯.png (30.79 KB,633x260,633:260,$ wrench.png)

e18774 No.11248 [View All]

Post your questions here.

334 posts and 77 image replies omitted. Click [Open thread] to view. ____________________________
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Post last edited at

af2350 No.18170

>>18168

Could be old gas. Drain it and try with fresh shit.

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d1b6b6 No.18176

>>18170

Didn't help, both new fuel pumps didn't help also. Noticed that the timing belt is kinda loose ant it looks like it jumped a tooth, gonna try if fixing that finally does the trick tomorrow.

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632dd1 No.18183

>>18176

good luck

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d1b6b6 No.18186

>>18168

>>18170

>>18176

>>18183

So, finally got the little red bastard running and it only took me a week. Wasn't the timing belt tho, got it nice, tight and in time and it still didn't help. Luckily got another pair of hands to help me that decided to move the MAF valve by hand as I as cranking it and it fired right up. Funny enough it was one of the first things I checked, I figured if it's causing no start unplugging it would make the car start and run like shit, apparently not. Anyway, the thing is adjustable by loosening the spring and moving a plastic gear around, so we got it to idle and sort of drive, still runs like shit, but that's still a huge leap forward.

So, anybody knows how to properly tune the MAF on an old fuel injected VW?

Also managed to rip the tow hook off, so there's some fucking welding to do now

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20b521 No.18191

So i need new belts for an 80s era vehicle. They're not made any more, do i have other options? Can i take the worn out one i do have and just compare it to whatever the parts store has to see what could fit? There is one chink branded belt that might work as it has the same part number, but i don't know ho wmuch i trust the stinky chinkys

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af2350 No.18192

>>18186

This is why I distrust EFI. Carburetor master race reporting in.

>>18191

Take it to the local parts store and see if they can find a match.

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d1b6b6 No.18193

>>18192

I've been driving an old diesel lately and it only had one screw that you could adjust. Turn it in for more go, turn it out for less smoke, so way easier than carbed. Anyway, https://itinerant-air-cooled.com//viewtopic.php?t=7761 found this, looks simple and straightforward. Fuck.

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d1b6b6 No.18198

>>18186

Fuck, so it still doesn't want to start without starting fluid and runs like shit. Oxygen sensor? I doubt simple vacuum leaks would cause that. Spark looks fine, although spark plug leads and distributor cap look crap, gonna replace those anyway.

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af2350 No.18203

>>18198

Did you try cleaning out the injectors? They like to clog up if they've been sitting.

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af2350 No.18204

>>18198

Also probably a stupid question, but you checked to see there were no check engine codes, right?

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d1b6b6 No.18205

>>18204

Car is made in 1990, so no OBD2 port, that would make the whole deal way too easy. I'm not even sure if it has an old 2x2 diagnostic connector, gonna try looking for one when I get to it. Also the temperature sensor might be out, maybe that contributes to this pile of problems also.

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af2350 No.18206

>>18205

Temp sensor could definitely be part of it. The ECU reads it to adjust ignition timing depending on if the engine's cold iron or at operating temp. And here's how to check codes on old Volkswagens:

www.2carpros.com/articles/volkswagen-code-retrieval-procedure-and-code-definitions-1988-1995-odb1

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d1b6b6 No.18207

Thanks for that! I thought the little car as too low tech to get it diagnosed the modern way. Hopefully this will narow the ghost hunt a little bit

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25698d No.18209

I have two questions;

The second one is more important than the first one but the first leads to the second so here goes;

>I turned 17 and got my Provisional license 11 months ago and I needed a car to go to work in.

>My dad surfed craigslist and found a "DUAL ExHaUST CONVERTIBLE" (2005 Chrysler sebring)

>My older brother told me to get an old Toyota since those were reliable (should have listened to him)

>I personally wanted a moto or moped since I saw they were fun but my parents said I needed a car.

>We get option no. 1 since my dad worked it all out and I start driving. 3 months later is starts sounding bad, keeps over heating.

>It's a coolant leak.

>I leave it in my drive way and I haven't driven it since.

>I tried to see where it was with a cursory look a few times but gave up each time. The drips coalesce at the bottom of the engine block underneath the car.

>I think that the leak may not be accessible to fix without ripping the car apart.

>I want to fix it and sell it and get at least some of my money back.

How do fix the leak? I will be willing to read manuals or do what ever, but I only have what I have in my garage which are two floor jacks and some miscellaneous tools.

Second Question;

How do I buy a used motorcycle on craigslist without being ripped off as netop just happened in Question 1?

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af2350 No.18210

>>18209

Get some ultraviolet coolant dye and a blacklight. And tell your dad he's a niggerfaggot for forcing a Chrysler product upon you. As far as used motorcycles, Kawasaki Ninjas are always a safe bet.

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25698d No.18211

>>18210

Thanks for the tips!

I've heard of the ulraviolet dye since my dad told me about it after we figured out the problem was the coolant system.

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20b521 No.18214

>>18192

>Take it to the local parts store and see if they can find a match.

Thanks anon. i did that this weekend. Got both belts i needed for less than $25. They didn't have the right one, but they had one that was pretty much identical.

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d1b6b6 No.18215

>>18203

I've cranked it with the fuel rail removed and they all seem to spray evenly, don't know if they need eny further cleaning

>>18206

Couldn't find the damn connector anywhere, maybe only facelift models had it and this one's too old. http://myplace.frontier.com/~janvdb/vw/Engine/vwfault.html This says there might be some connector behind the firewall, but didn't find anything also. And changing the temp sensor did nothing. Starting to get annoyed now

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d1b6b6 No.18216

>>18215

Also the thing idles way too fast, just dies when I try to accelerate

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af2350 No.18218

>>18216

Did you see what the owner's manual said as far as where the connector might be? Also have you checked it with a timing light yet?

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d1b6b6 No.18219

>>18218

Haynes manual for facelift model says it's under the dash, but I can't find it in mine. Didn't check it with the light yet, but tried moving the distributor around and by ear the spark seems just about right. Removed the intake manifold today to check everything around it for leaks, as I suspect the engine might be getting excess air somewhere. I suspect the idle (air bypass) valve might be stuck open, that would make sense. Just need to figure out a way to test it before blindly spending money on more parts as I'll spend more on parts than I did on the car itself at this pace soon.

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af2350 No.18220

>>18219

Reassemble the intake, start the engine, and spray ether where you think the leak is. If it revs up when you spray a certain spot, then there's a leak.

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d1b6b6 No.18221

>>18220

Good advice, going to do that if I don't find any obvious leak. Noticed the PCV valve is stuck open, so I'm thinking it can allow unmetered air from the crankcase in the intake and lean the mixture out. And the idle valve doesn't move when I give it 12V also, so hopefully I found the cause for high idle at least.

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d1b6b6 No.18226

File: d91e54297a2391b⋯.png (740.6 KB,528x960,11:20,ClipboardImage.png)

>>18220

>>18221

So got rid of all the vacuum leaks (nothing major), cleaned the idle valve (it was stuck) and messed with the AFM a little bit and got it to run a bit nicer. Anyway, the exhaust spits out loads of crap out, so decat is imminent. Runs (and backfires) way better with the exhaust removed, so I think I finally got most of the bugs out. Now it need a little bit of welding, tuning in the AFM properly, new brake discs and pipes, some other little bits and pieces and it should be happily back on the road again.

Also the piston rings were stuck, had tons of blowby and compression sucked but letting it sit overnight with kerosene in the cylinders and changing the oil the next day actually did help. Neat.

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658764 No.18316

Are aftermarket head units a cost-effective way to get all your favorite bugman gizmos in an older car, or just a meme? If not a meme, what are some good brands to look out for?

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dbdf7f No.18323

how do I know what engine will fit and hook up to my stock wires and bolts and shit.. sorry if i sound like a dumb nigger, but i'm new to mechanics, and curiosity is a natural thing.

There must be a site that lists all car specs, what fits what doesn't. is there?

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dbdf7f No.18324

Typically, what would be the first 6 car components you upgrade, if you're diy'ing your car?

>inb4 stickers

>inb4 fart can

>inb4 cardboard fender

ib4 i think you get the point

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af2350 No.18330

>>18316

Yes, and they also will probably sound a lot better than the stock head unit. I like Pioneer units.

>>18323

>sorry if i sound like a dumb nigger

Don't worry, you absolutely do. :^)

It's a lot more complicated than you probably think it is to swap an engine. Most anything involves modifying your wiring harness and fucking with or replacing your engine computer; anything that wouldn't need any of that is probably not worth doing in the first place. Best thing to do is look up your specific car and see what other people did, and how easy or hard it was.

>>18324

>Intake

>Headers and Exhaust

>Coilovers

>Sway Bars

>Wheels and Tires

>Brakes

Making more power is one thing, but being able to actually use it is far more important.

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dbdf7f No.18331

>>18330

thank you sir.

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dbdf7f No.18342

So I was cleaning my front caliper. Since I'm new at repairing my car. Things happened..

Little to my knowledge, did I know that removing the brake fluid line from the caliper would trigger a problem. When I put everything back together. I pumped the brakes and they got tighter and tighter(check)

But when I tested out the brakes when I started the car my brake peddle got all squishy and didn't stop the vehicle, I had to pump them to stop the car. Is this because I lost brake fluid and air got into the brake line?

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dbdf7f No.18346

>>18342

ah I fixed it. lol.

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dbdf7f No.18379

WOuld it be ricey if I installed a cold air intake into a 1.8-liter four-cylinder with a standard five-speed manual transmission?

I'm not looking to be the fastest bad ass mf in the "hood", but a minor performance upgrade. thoughts?

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3ae51a No.18391

>>18379

No, it would not be rice. Go for it. It turns into rice the moment you install a 100 money ebay turbo kit from China.

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af2350 No.18423

>>18379

<b-but the box said 10 horsepower!

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658764 No.18453

If I wanted to get a more affordable car with an automated manual transmission, where would I look?

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658764 No.18454

>>18453

I should probably point out that I'm a burger and limited to what is sold here.

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74f130 No.18474

What does everyone think of the Skoda Octavia VRS? I'm considering buying one amongst some other things (E92 BMW 325D, MX5 NC)

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ae1b7a No.18475

>>18474

Škoda Octavia VR5 and NC Miata are great choises for driver cars. Škoda is one of the few fast cars you can stuff your family inside too and they might just not notice it's a fast car.

Dump the BMW, that generation was kinda meh. You want a BMW to show off, get and older 7 series.

>>18453

The hell is a automated manual? No clutch, not a manual. No middleground.

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74f130 No.18476

>>18475

Yeah Ive been a fan of the octavia for a while, I believe its essentially a golf gti in a saloon body so whats not to love? I'd have the miata over everything else without question if it wasnt for fuel economy, I have a 20 mile commute each day. I've been considering a 635d over a 7 series, any reason this is retarded? I've also been looking at previous Gen Audi A4s and A6s.

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658764 No.18491

Do you have any websites or blogs you follow to keep up on automobile news and the like?

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fda92f No.18495

>>18491

No. I do not follow the news.

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658764 No.18498

>>18495

I see. I'd like to learn more about the technical aspects of cars, and absent taking a class, I'd have hoped keeping up with good auto blogs and lurking here would be a good way of accomplishing that goal, as it worked well enough with firearms. Since /o/ is a bit too slow to properly learn anything from lurking, I was hoping there were some good blogs on the subject.

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658764 No.18584

What were the major changes made between the RX-7 and RX-8?

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38f2c8 No.18591

>>18584

>Number of seats,

>turbo vs na

>engine model, big power difference, see above

saying there were changes made between them is a bit inaccurate though, the rx8 is not a successor car, they have totally different design concepts

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5028e4 No.18626

Hey /o/, I have a 2008 Chrysler Sebring convertible that'll crank, but wont run. Last time I had this issue I was able to just replace the slot 26 (engine ASD relay feed 2) fuse and it ran for 4 months and then this happened. Now it wont accept new fuses. I have a replacement relay but the relay box had totally different relays making me wonder where the fuck this one is supposed to go. Any ideas and advice would help.

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5cad9a No.18627

>>18591

Ah, I see. I only knew they both used a Wankel engine, which I think is kino. Although if the RX-8 is NA, I'll probably go for it when I can afford a car that's fun as well as a practical one.

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6eddd3 No.18628

>>18627

A good mate of mine has an RX8 and I have to say it's wonderful when it's working, I'd never buy one myself due to the reliability. My taste in unreliable 2nd cars is more 70's British stuff.

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5cad9a No.18629

>>18628

So you're the one who posted about the Thatchermobile?

This wouldn't be a practical car, I have a FWD automatic Toyota for practicality. Even if I do decide to go for it, this is isn't a purchase I would make for at least a few years, when I have my more immediate needs taken care of. I know it will need lots of tender love and care to keep running, since this would be a "fun" car rather than a daily driver I think I can live with that. I just like Wankel engines, they're a neat concept that, like so many others, were forced off the road due to regulations. The RX-7 was another option I was looking at, but most people seem to agree that the 8 handles better, and I feel like it would be easier to acquire parts for a newer car. As much as I like the 7, especially the 90s styling, it seems like Initial D, among other factors, has inflated its price.

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7f00c2 No.18636

>>18629

Depends, which Thatchermobile? I have two myself and I've only posted about them here once or twice.

What country are you from? RX-7s here cost 10x more than RX-8s, usually more.

My friend's RX8 cost him £400, though admittedly it needed a new transmission and rear suspension. I say they're an unreliable car but he took his around western Europe a couple of months ago and it didnt die. Still wouldn't daily it though.

As a weekend car you're making a solid choice with the 8 anyway, the engine is tiny and so far back in the bay as to practically be midengined. My favourite thing about it is the sound though, it's really not like other cars.

Before you buy one study all the buyers guides you can get, ideally you want to get the engine compression tested. Parts aren't expensive but a lot of mechanics wont touch a wankel so keep that in mind, you'll likely have to do your own spannering for anything involving that.

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5cad9a No.18640

>>18636

I'm a burger. From the quick searches I've done, it seems like an RX-7 ranges from just a little more than to about double that of an RX-8 with similar mileage. I assume the variation is from the different generations of each car being better or worse. I've got a few buyer's guides bookmarked, probably won't seriously use them for another couple years but I'm glad I'm have them.

>you'll likely have to do your own spannering for anything involving that.

Yep, that's part of the appeal. I want to learn to work on my own cars.

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