/o/ -  Auto

I'm looking at getting new brakes for my 2012 SS Commodore (Series II). I don't want to pay out the ass for top of the range Brembo or whatever other meme brakes are out there, but I still want better than stock. I have no skill, abilities or tools to do the job myself. What are my options?

Hit a deer, cylinder is out because the spark plugs are bad. How can I get the damn thing open when it seems the deer fucked up the lock on the hood?

>>11261

I would guess that you would use a pry bar (will probably break the lock but if the front end is fucked up from the deer anyway probably not a big deal) or cut it.

>>11249

It's really easy to do that job yourself. Like follow along a 6 minute youtube video level easy. And if you buy the tools and parts necessary, you would still save a lot of money versus paying a mechanic or shop.

>>11274

Didn't think of bikes… Oops. Thread title updated.

>>11283

Forgot capcode…

>>11274

That chart isn't just outdated, it's wrong. There are way better options in most of those categories.

>first generation Odyessey

lol

>>11274

There's a thread about a Euro version of the advice pic. I haven't had the time to update it myself and didn't want anyways since I didn't have much comments on my OP.

>>11584

Drop-in kits are made for most cars. I found this with a quick web search: http://www.extremeterrain.com/wrangler-jeep-jk-air-intake.html so they do exist. Search at your parts retailer of choice and get one. Installation is usually just taking out your stock airbox and dropping in the new one, but look it up to make sure because I've never done it or seen a video of it.

Well guys, I'm thinking of doing something crazy. I'm honestly, seriously thinking of buying this, shipping it over here to the USA and using it as a daily driver. How retarded am I being right now? https://www.tradecarview.com/used_car/nissan/laurel/19960148/

>>11775

I guess the main question I have is why?

>>11775

Very retarded, but do it anyway. Also, answer >>11777 and tell us why.

>>11777

because <$3k manual RWD RB20e with the potential for a direct RB20det swap later down the line. I'm a big Nissan fan that wants something that is possible to DD but don't want to break the bank. I've been looking for a 240sx with not much more than 100k miles on the engine but thanks to the drift tax its impossible to find one in decent shape for non-ripoff prices. I also can't have two cars due to where I live and my living situation.

>>11775

>>11779

>under $3k

I don't know much about importing, but it may not be that cheap after shipping charges. Have you actually researched how you would get it here?

>>11775

what's with that Renault 4L behind on the second pic? That'd be a sweet ride in the US.

>>11285

I like that guys channel.

>>11784

He's pretty good aside from some slight pandering to Jalopnik in the past (which is understandable because I think his "big break" came from an article he wrote for them.) He is also an English major (masters degree?) with apparently slightly left-leaning political tendencies. Those don't come up often though. So he is very entertaining 95% of the time.

stopping now because this is off-topic

>>11786

That's one thing I really appreciate about Regular, topical commentary is a big part of his schtick but he never involves politics.

>>11796

If all you want to do is replace the OEM ones, try looking for the same thing but for a Ford Laser of the same year. They are the same car underneath the body panels. (You will almost certainly have to buy from overseas but you may be able to find OEM ones)

>>11248

I recently opened up my hood to disconnect my battery so I could do some electric work inside. I thought I'd scrub baking soda on the terminals to get rid of some corrosion while I was at it; that's when I noticed that acid had come out of the vents and pooled on top of the battery. I know it was acid because it was reacting with the soda. Is my battery fucked? I'm too pussy to reconnect it as-is or try to neutralize the acid.

Cousin just got a Ford Fiesta RT good pick?

>>11897

Not bad, it's a cool little hot-hatch. What year is it?

>>11900

I think its current year, or last year. But its new and not used.

>>11889

I don't know much about batteries but I'm guessing that if it's leaking acid it's probably fucked. I would look it up or call a mechanic if no one who knows what they are talking about comes in here.

>>11897

>Fiesta RT

Never heard of it and a websearch returns nothing. If you mean Fiesta ST, I've heard bad things about reliability. Other than that it's okay imo, as new cars go.

>>11907

meant ST. Huh, dont know if I should tell my cousin about the reliability.

>>11908

I would tell him.

Here is the J.D. Power rating for the 2016 Fiesta: http://www.jdpower.com/cars/Ford/Fiesta/2016#model_ratings

You can select other model years at the top of the page. The first source is some guy on here who I think was a Ford mechanic and was talking about the C-Max, I believe he mentioned the Fiesta was pretty shit too. I forget which thread it was otherwise I'd link it. A quick websearch reveals that they tend to have clutch/transmission problems early, among other things (depending on the model year).

>>11909

I assume you will have to do the baking soda thing in order to safely remove it so you may as well do it anyway, unless you want battery acid all over your engine bay (and hands)…

Check out http://blackdogmods.com for great prices and selection.

>>11940

I did a quick websearch and the only thing I found is a review that says "customer service recommended black ones because they are graphite infused, which self-lubricate."

>>11941

Yeah, I've got to believe there's some disadvantage to it though, or else they wouldn't sell both. My current running theory is maybe they're not as long-lasting or something.

>>11945

Glad someone here has experience with them. I have a Protege5 which has the same shifter as the ZX2, but the heat shield/exhaust isn't an issue.

go install those babies, your car deserves it

>>11946

I'll get to it this month, I'm really sick of the unending buzzing and AWFUL shift feel.

>>11976

Just hook it to the cig lighter circuit.

>>11978

There's no fuse for my cigarette socket, and it's busted, anyway. I'm toying with just fixing that, but I'm too lazy to disassemble my center console.

89' Jeep wrangler wont start. I can flip my headlights on and off easily and they work. But I do hear a click when I turn the ignition key on trying to turn it on but nothing happens.

What do I do? I checked to see if the battery clamps were on good and put took them off and put them on again and the lights still come on but it wont starts. All I hear is one click and thats it. It stopped working after I killed the battery and removed the clamps to charge the jeep. The thing that charged my jeep shows that my battery is fully charged so I dont know what to do.

>>11981

did you try the simple stuff yet? (auto) start in neutral, (manual) roll a tiny bit and pop the clutch in first then turn it over, hit the starter with a stick.

is there a power draw when you try to start it? headlights/dome lights dim

>>11982

I knew about the rolling start, but its snowed today and it'll be pretty hard to move my jeep by myself currently to do it, also trying the rolling start where I live would only put it downhill and making it hard as fuck to push it back up.

Headlights are not dim. or no loss of light.

I did try to start in neutral since its how you always start it right? but I can try to do the rolling start in 2nd or 3rd gear. Though its stuck in a gravel lot so I cant really move it. Basically its gonna be tough to move it.

>>11981

>>11983

>it clicks but doesn't turn over

>electrics work fine

Sounds to my novice ears like a bad starter motor/ignition coil/whatever.

This seems to back that up: http://www.justanswer.com/dodge/1kx0b-1999-dodge-caravan-won-t-start-even-turn-relay-just-clicks.html

>Chances are good that if you hear a single loud <click> as you try to crank the engine, your starter is bad.

>I did try to start in neutral since its how you always start it right?

That or just put the clutch in.

>>11909

Final update on my battery situation- I bought some spray-on acid cleaner, cleaned it up, hooked it up, and it ran beautifully with no issues. I then proceeded to lock my keys in the car. any tips?

>>12003

Here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cgPLe5oRfQc

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RxLQeN1-p4A

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2EadqeRJJ54

Shoulda had a Saab. It's impossible to lock your keys inside my 900 because if the door is locked when you close it, it unlocks.

>>12004

my mazda has that, try holding the handle up as you close it.

>>12003

make spares m8

>>12004

Thanks, never knew it was so easy. I'll def have to make spares like >>12007 said. I used to have three keys and two keyfobs, but they've been floating around since 2003.

My brother just graduated from college and is being offered a job so hes gonna make around 52k starting and what not. He asked me to find a truck around 5-12k but he just wants a really reliable car since all the cars we had in the family always break down and are pretty shit. Also preferable it can seat 5.

>>12046

>reliable crew cab truck

I don't know of any but I don't know trucks that well. There is a crew cab Toyota Tundra but I don't know how good it is since it's newer.

>reliable truck (not crew cab)

Nissan D21 (small)/D22, Toyota Tacoma.

>reliable SUVs

1st/2nd gen Toyota 4Runner, 90s Land Cruiser, 1st/2nd gen Nissan Pathfinder, Jeep XJ (with the V6).

Again I don't know much about American trucks beyond that American cars in general are not very reliable compared to the Japanese competition, with Jeep as an exception. Both GM and Ford have multiple crew cab offerings so look at what's in your price range and look up reliability ratings.

>>12046

Whatever you do, don't let him buy an American truck. Tell him to look at Hondas, Toyotas, etc. That's about the extent of my knowledge. /k/ might be good to ask about trucks; they're more active and very outdoorsy.

Is there somewhere I can go that'll let me use a car lift? I don't have jackstands and I don't think they'd give me enough clearance to install my shifter bushings, anyway.

Is tire rotation necessary on a rear wheel drive vehicle?

>>12064

Why wouldn't it be?

>>12065

Because all the power is going to the rear wheels to balance the weight of the engine on the front wheels I guess?

>>12066

It's not really about weight; the tires driven by the engine have more wear on them. Tire rotation is less important on an AWD for this reason, but it's still a good idea.

>>12056

>>12048

Yeah I knew offhand that a American Truck would not be me choice, I knew the Terrorist go to truck was a tacoma so I figured they will probably be good but I think it's probably gonna be a Honda, Toyota, or a Nissan.

I heard offhand that Ford has gotten better but I wasn't sure if those were just made up rumors. I think they are.

>>12079

>I heard offhand that Ford has gotten better but I wasn't sure if those were just made up rumors. I think they are.

You couldn't get a new anything for $12k anyway.

There are also Nissan Frontiers and Titans in crew cab. I don't know anything about them though, beyond that the newest Frontier with a crew cab is third gen (twice removed from the Hardbody).

I just spent AUD$11k on new brakes, wheels and tyres. Kill me.

>>12183

Did you DIY or take it to a shop?

>>12186

I ended up taking it to a shop, the labour costs aren't that bad where I'm taking it. The brakes alone cost just over $5k, and since I've got zero experience I didn't want to screw up and damage something that expensive. I'd love to get a little shitbox to practice working on, but space and money.

>>12190

What car? Was it a major upgrade? That's insane for a brake and tire job.

>>12207

2012 Holden Commodore VE SS Series II (everything is in ausfag dollars). Upgrade from standard stock kit to 380mm x 35mm 2 piece ventilated and grooved discs/AP Racing 6 Piston calipers front, and 350mm x 26mm ventilated and grooved discs/AP Racing 4 piston calipers rear. Wheels (without tyres) are valued around $4.5k

>>12210

Sounds like a pretty major upgrade…

>>12211

>…

I can't tell if you're being sarcastic or not.

>>12212

I'm not.

You clearly aren't short on cash so why are you considering suicide?

>>12213

Because I don't have the ability to do it myself. If I was replacing stock with stock I probably would have given it a shot, but I didn't want to risk screwing anything up with this kit. I love cars, but I know completely fuck all about them.

Not really a car question, but it's appropriate; How can I get oilstains off my untreated concrete driveway? The HOA is breathing down my neck. It's power steering fluid and Dex/Merc, if that matters.

>>12278

>control arms

>labor costs

Should be easy enough to replace them yourself unless Volvo did something really fucky when designing them.

>aftermarket parts that cost 10% of oem

Be careful with those, could be cheap Chinese steel like you mentioned later.

>other aftermarket parts

Probably fine, search for reviews and if they are good get them and replace them yourself.

>120k miles

If I'm not mistaken Volvos are supposed to be pretty reliable, so if you take care of it you could get another 100k+ out of it. How much you would have to spend depends on the condition. Whether it's worth it to fix or not depends on how much you like the car.

>I feel like I owe it to this one to keep it going as long as I can.

If you don't like the car enough to keep it running then don't. It doesn't matter how rare or special it is to some people - if it's not worth it to you to keep the car for what it is (something that fulfills your driving needs) then sell it to someone who actually cares about it and enjoys it.

>>12279

>Should be easy enough to replace them yourself

You'd think. But I can't find service manuals for this car anywhere. Saw like 3 torrents for Russian shop manuals, none have seeds though. The only other lead is eBay, but they sell them for $60 or something and I have no idea if it's even real or what. There's Youtube videos I possibly might be able to follow.

Other problem is that I don't have a garage or equipment to raise the car. I don't know if it would be easy with just a jack.

Seems like servicing this car is a bit complicated, they didn't go out of their way to make it hard but some things are inconvenient to do.

>>12284

>service manual

Check these out:

http://chilton.cengage.com/

https://haynes.com/en-us/car-manuals

>garage

What about a driveway? You might also get away with doing it on a dead end street or some other unpopulated area (abandoned parking lot?). That's what I do when I change my oil, since my garage is full of crap right now and my driveway is sloped.

>equipment

You can get jack stands for pretty cheap at Harbor Freight. Floor jacks are kinda expensive though (~$100). You could try a bottle jack but check the height of the jack, how high it jacks up to, and your car's ride height before you buy one to make sure it will work. A floor jack is a necessary investment if you plan to do a lot of your own work in the future.

I want to get a Mazdaspeed 6 GT but since they are so limited, I feel like before I can save enough money for it there wont be any of them left. FUCK!

Posted it in the wrong thread.

>>12261

Here's a thought:

If you don't know how to get to a brake because it's somehow blocked by some round thing you don't know about, perhaps reconsider touching that brake.

I'm not saying you're going to break it, I'm not saying you can't do it, but since they are making an abnormal noise to begin with, "cleaning" them isn't likely to help your cause, and diagnosing, dismantling, cleaning, prepping and reassembling the brake in working order to solve your issue *MIGHT* be a bit more of a task than you're up to. Brakes are the most important safety device on your car, take it to a shop.

>>12261

>they're blocked from the hubcap or whatever it's called?

If you are referring to the large round item in the picture, that would be your wheel.

>thud noise when braking, could it be brake dust causing it?

Extremely unlikely. I would suggest taking it to a mechanic to have it checked out, or look up your problem. I also agree with >>12306 , you don't sound like you know what you're doing.

/o/, question: I'm a youngshit and I'm interested in a Corvette C4, with a few for a reasonable price at 100k miles. Are there any major reasons to avoid these things? Is one model year in the generation better than another in reliability/performamce? Do they shit the bed past 100k miles? What should I inspect when I look at them in person?

>>12312

The C4 is pretty popular, and most likely a lot better than newer ones. Test drive it, and if it's a manual, you def wanna see how it runs in the 3-4k RPM area, since people who like their car to be loud will tend to run it in that range a lot (which wears on the engine a lot faster).

>>12312

>C4

Pretty shitty imo, but I don't like muscle cars so that doesn't mean much.

>What should I inspect

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vC8LbvYk6es&list=PLvKbarVtwhUv6bjLhJSyaEOxaYy03j7QS

>>12313

>>12315

Thanks for the tips. I'm a wee baby and they're more common and less collectible so generally cheaper so it's an auto, so I'll see how well it drives on highways. I figure even if I have to work on it every so often given it's age, it should be relatively cheap to get parts for and shouldn't give me too much of a headache and I have a Focus as my reliable, sensible 4-door commuter.

My cars master cylinder won't stop fucking leaking. I took off the old cylinder and inspected it and thought it was the issue, so I got a new one. However the new one leaks in EXACTLY the same way. It leaks at the bottom of the plate that bolts up to the brake booster. I'm thinking of putting some sort of gasket there to force it to stop. Does anyone have experience doing something like custom gaskets? Could I just tighten the part down on an o-ring and call it good?

This shit is fucking up my paint and I'm tired of it

>>11786

>tfw no RWDS car reviewer

So I fucked up and crashed my MR2 Spyder. Thankfully nobody got hurt and the car is structurally sound, but it didn't end up completely unscathed. After I got it back from the towing company I was able to jump start it a few times but never start it on its own. Now the car wont even jump start. Every time I try to do so, the dash lights flicker and it wont even crank. Without a jumper its even worse, as it just shuts itself off completely as if someone had disconnected the battery completely. Google hasn't been much help to me. Anybody have any idea what could be wrong?

>>12606

Where was the impact?

>>12606

>>12624

You can actually disregard this now as I got it to start again. Turns out the only thing that was keeping it from starting was rusty battery terminals. It was raining for 2 days straight while my car was being held by the towing company, so it wouldn't surprise me if the idiots just kept the hood open while it rained.

>>12624

to answer the question that is in your head, yes it was snap oversteer

Spun out on a twisty road at night and ended up in a ditch on the side of the road. Coasted backwards and clipped a sign, which tore off the right side mirror. Waiting for the replacement to come in the mail. Also getting some new tires (Yokohama S-Drives) eventually because one of the tires is almost completely out of tread and tires should always be your first upgrade except for MAYBE if its a drift car. Previous owner didn't replace all the tires at the same time or even with the same brand, so it pulls to the left a little as a result.

>>12663

Sounds like a bad idle pulley/sensor/whatever it is. The thing that makes it idle. Found this in 30 seconds of a web search for "2000 ford focus bad idle". http://www.carparts.com/ford/focus/idle-control-valve

>>12417

pls fucking respond tho

>>12694

What car? Have you done any web searches?

>>12697

aw11 mr2 and yes and they're all worthless results. Only one person may have had a similar issue but there is no conclusion to the thread. It just looks like these MC's are fucking engineered to leak at the base like that. They have a machined fucking channel that the brake fluid leaks through when it slips past the seal inside the cylinder.

I don't know what they go for where you guys are, but I've looked in NY, NY, CT, DL, and east PA and I can not find an MX5 NA under 4k that is not beat the fuck up. Whoever told me they're only $1500 is a fucking lair. I've been finding them from 5-10k with 6k being average. Anything under looks like it will need more time than I can give it for a daily. Is 6k way too much for an MX5 NA. Let's say it has under 100k miles and is in good shape? What's the most I should spend? I refuse to spend over 7k unless it somehow has under 60k miles on it and none of that fading paint. Should I hold out for that 3-4k gem or is that wishful thinking.

>>12708

Very strange. You mentioned a seal - is there a bad gasket? Maybe someone makes an aftermarket one without that issue?

>>12721

KBB puts a ~120k miles ("average mileage") NA in decent condition around $2k. NADA puts the same around $4k.. Have you actually inspected any examples and negotiated a price or are you just looking at listings? It's pretty much standard practice for people to ask for more than they actually want, so you can't really go by list price in most cases.

>>12725

I'm just looking for now so I have a good idea of what to ask for when the time comes in a few months when I can buy it.I'm not ready just yet. I don't want to buy a car without having at least 1-2k on stand buy if anything goes wrong.

>>12730

People (both private, dealership and used car lot) often list cars for 2-4x the real price. They will drop 30% or so easily just for asking, and with serious bargaining you can often halve it. If you're an expert bargainer you could probably even get the car for less than half of the list price.

>>12725

There is no factory seal, and I was asking if I could just find a generic acceptably sized o-ring to torque down inbetween the brake booster and cylinder would stop it.

>>12758

You could try it.

>>12934

I don't know anything about that specific truck but I would check the radiator and coolant hoses. Could be anything from a punctured radiator to a loose hose clamp.

>>13064

>$350 floor jack

Are you a professional needing professional-grade equipment? I got my floor jack from Harbor Freight and it works just fine…

>>13065

>open owners manual PDF on hein-werner jacks

>Assembled in the US with US and Global Components

fug.

I shied away from the harbor freight jacks just because of their 90day warranty. guess I'll need to do more research

>>13079

*died while at a stop sign

>>13079

I'm an amateur, but the only thing I can think of that would cause that is if the piston went farther than it was supposed to and smashed the plug. I have no idea how easily that would happen or if it is even possible.

>>13081

Also not a professional, but my first guess would be that a connecting rod or maybe a rod bearing failed and the piston isn't connected securely to anything anymore. That type of plug damage could also be caused by something like a screw finding its way into the engine, but that usually doesn't randomly happen while sitting at a stop sign.

>>13093

I don't own one, but from what I've heard, they cost a lot to maintain, insurance is high and these are pretty fragile rides.

The engine and style, plus the value skyrocketing, could make up for it though.

>>13093

>dailying a Ferrari

I don't own one or know anything about the 308 specifically but here's what I've heard/can glean from the fact that it's a Ferrari:

>high insurance costs

>high fuel costs (very inefficient)

>exceptionally high maintenance costs (all exotics do, for everything from replacing a door handle to major engine maintenance)

>some Ferraris require an additional, very expensive engine maintenance every 2 years or something

>they are not reliable

>value goes down with every mile you drive it

Basically I would not recommend it unless you make a lot, and I mean a lot, of money. But like I said I don't know anything about the 308 specifically, so it could be uniquely inexpensive to run (for a Ferrari). Do your research and find out.

>>13093

I'm not a Ferrari expert, but what the other two guys have said are probably right. Italian cars in general have a reputation for being unreliable. Ferrari up until recently was owned by Fiat, so the old saying applies: FIAT stands for "Fix It Again, Tony."

They're not cars, but I do have some experience with some Italian manufacturing equipment. You could accurately say the manufacturer of this equipment was the Ferrari of its industry. Some of the machines are actually more expensive than a Ferrari individually. The summary of many long stories is that a random part of the line would break down on us about 50% of the time it was used, and all the machines had some fully retarded design decisions that caused us unreasonable amounts of pain. The same company also had a line of USA-made equipment that did the exact same thing, operated and maintained by the exact same people, and it never broke down in the whole time I worked there. Dealing with the shitty Italian equipment daily has caused me to distrust Italian engineering in general.

Bottom line: if you have money to throw at it then go ahead. A 308 is a beautiful car. If you do buy one, don't expect it to not break down on you, and don't expect the price of the parts and labor it takes to fix it to be anything even close to cheap.

>>13094

>>13096

>>13102

Okay thank you for your responses. Another question, do all classic cars (e.g. classic muscle cars like Ford,Dodge, Chevrolet) have high maintenance and overall bad to drive daily? Are there any classic cars that are reliable and able to be driven daily?

>>13104

If you live in the US, muscles are quite reliable, but subject to rust. You can daily drive them if you're not afraid of gas prices and low safety.

Maintenance costs are higher than for a more common car, but still not as high as a Ferrari.

Their prices are on the rise, so even if you don't daily it, it's an investment.

>>13104

I have a 1969 El Camino I'm building to be a driver. For 1964-1972 El Caminos and Chevelles, parts are available everywhere. Mechanical parts are dirt cheap because of GM volume and standardization. Engines and transmissions are generally very reliable, and the vehicles themselves are very easy to work on. Other parts are often 10-40% more expensive than on other cars. It's not outrageous, but if you need a lot of parts, it adds up.

My operating costs with my new engine and transmission are 16 MPG, oil changes at 3000 miles, and spark plugs at 12000 miles in addition to the regular maintenance you do on every car. It is possible to build an engine for economy, fill it with synthetic oil and platinum spark plugs, and attach an overdrive transmission to make that more like 25 MPG, 10,000 mile oil changes, and 100,000 mile spark plugs.

Unless you spend money on an EFI retrofit, you will have a carburetor on top of your engine. That means that you'll want to spend ten minutes fine tuning your engine every 3-6 months as the weather changes, the engine will require 20-30 seconds of warm up in the morning, and it may act a little bit squirrely for the next three minutes or so depending on the engine's personality. If your car has power steering and power brakes, it will otherwise drive basically like a new car would.

As far as the safety items go, you will have crappy stock seat belts and on pre-1967, single reservoir brakes and a non-collapsible steering column. You can buy later-style parts to fix all of these problems if you wanted to. There are no crumple zones, which means that a low speed accident that would total a new car can probably be fixed with nothing but a hammer and a set of wrenches. At high speeds your risk of waking up in a hospital three days later is at least double.

Rust can be a problem. The worst areas are usually under the floors, in the wheel wells, and disguised body filler repairs in the lower fender areas.

>>13107

>>13108

Got it thank you.

>>13094

>>13096

>>13102

Okay got it thanks!

Checked out a car today. Had this written on the engine. I know that it indicates that the engine came from a wrecker, but what exactly does it mean? Is it a damage code like https://www.kosiski.com/tools/damage-codes/ has (I don't think it is)? If not, does it indicate anything in particular about the engine or the car it came out of?

>>13165

TB 84k = Timing Belt (TB) replaced at 84k.

>>13167

I hadn't considered that… I'm having it inspected tomorrow, I'll mention that as a possibility. I don't know how common it is to write things like that on the valve cover… Why the space between the 84 and K though?

>>11248

Ive got a ford 300 straight six engine that stopped running right.

I cant figure out whats wrong and ive tested everything I can think of.

It starts ok, but it runs really rough and dies after a few seconds.

I can sort of keep it going if I give it a little gas, but any more or less and it stalls.

The compression is good, no vaccume leaks, pcv valve is fine, cleaned and rebuilt the carb twice, float bowl is full, timing is right where i left it, points and plugs are gapped, all plugs are getting spark.

Very rarely I can get it running just fine, but then the next day its back to shitting itself.

Ive had friends looks at it and ive done all I can do, but no one can figure out what the hell is wrong with it.

Anything else I can look for?

>>13179

Sounds like a fuel delivery problem to me. Have you checked your fuel filter? Not just the one in the carb, but the one on the main fuel line as well. If a new filter doesn't help, then you could check if the fuel pump is actually pumping fuel.

I have an EFI version of that same engine that I love it to pieces. These 300s are some of the best engines ever made.

>>13209

Both filters and the pump are brand new.

Forgot to mention those were actually the first things I replaced since they were cheap enough.

I also tried a different carb that I had laying around.

On the off chance it was bad gas I tried pouring some heet into the float bowl and the tank the other day, but that didnt change anything.

>>13210

I ran your question by somebody I know that used to write service for these back in the 1980s. His guess is a leaking intake manifold gasket. He said to test that theory, you could spray some WD-40 around the manifold with the engine running. If the RPM changes, there is a leak near where you sprayed. He also said that this isn't a problem you'd typically find on a Ford 6/300, and in his opinion would suggest that somebody may have done something to the engine at some point in the past.

>>13226

Ok, so i gave that idea a shot.

I couldnt really tell if the rpms were changing or not since since it runs so rough and they fluctuate a bit anyways.

Took a chance and pulled the manifolds off and installed a new gasket after cleaning the mating surfaces with acetone, torqed it spec in the correct order and all that.

The manifolds didnt appear warped or anything and fit flush against the head.

The problem remains unchanged.

I also toook a look under the valve cover while I was at it, but nothing seemed amiss.

Might just have to take it to the shop at this point.

How do you get bumper stickers off a car? There's four of them on the tailgate of the truck I just bought. I'm not particularly worried about the paint since it's already chipping on other parts of the tailgate and will need to be repainted soon anyways, but I don't want to leave it looking like an eyesore.

>>11248

88 Ford Tbird Turbo coupe with 5 speed manual.

Dude is selling it for $3k (might work him down a bit) and seems to have everything in order and working. Paint is solid.

What do you guys recommend? I'm getting this as a daily driver.

>>13301

razor scraper and acetone.

after you get the bulk of it off, you can get the remaining bits with sand paper.

>>13302

Depends on how much snow you get where you live. If you're in the Midwest or Southwest than you'll probably be fine so long as you invest in snow tires. If you're Northwest or Northeast then no.

Also, I would be careful on a turbo car that cheap, even if that model of car is pretty fucking sweet in my opinion. Do your research on forums for how reliable they are/aren't. I'm sure someone has already asked the question before, so make sure to google it or even ask yourself on forums so you don't get over your head with turbo replacement or whatever.

>>13338

>should I have gotten a dual sport?

Are there a lot of really shitty or dirt roads around you? Are you into enduro? Those are the only two reasons I can think of for getting a dual sport. I'm not a bikefag though so maybe there are other reasons.

>>13342

I agree, that's why initially I didn't look for a dual sport because I'll mainly be riding it around town on paved roads. That and they're a little more expensive.

I don't plan on going on highways and I'm a pretty small guy so I was just wondering if a smaller and lighter bike would be better. The Nighthawk is smallish but it's still a huge chunk of metal. I was just wondering since I've found a lot of threads elsewhere praising dual sports as the best starter/commute bikes.

I suppose dual sports might be a bit lighter, and it might follow that it would be easier to handle at first.

Whether something smaller and lighter would be better for you depends on how small you are. I assume the average (young) rider weighs 160-180 pounds, and 250's are generally regarded as the smallest displacement you can go reasonable speeds on afaik. Unless you're really small (<5'8" <140 pounds) 250cc seems fine. Seems moot since you already bought a bike.

>>13345

5'8", 170

Yeah I know it's moot, I was asking solely out of curiosity. Just wanted to hear some opinions.

>>13346

Didn't mean to sound rude, if i did.

>170

I think anything smaller (in terms of displacement) would be too small, for the reason I stated above (smaller = slower). Seems like you're golden.

I've been getting more interested in bikes recently.. Maybe I'll get a cheap 250 to putt around on in the dryer months, after my new (to me) car is paid off. It seems like it would be pretty hard to find a small displacement bike that fit me, since I'm tall and very skinny (6'1" 140).

>>13347

Didn't know I sounded so defensive lol, didn't think you were being rude.

Yeah, I'm just more or less surprised with how big my bike actually is, especially since it's supposed to be one of the smaller 250's. First thing I learned when buying a motorcycle is that they're a lot bigger in person lol.

Take a look at a few Ninjas on craigslist, seat height is about 30 inches so it's one of the taller 250's I believe and you can get them cheap.

>>13366

>buy a used Japanese cruiser off of Craigslist (beginner friendly if you've never ridden before)

>take off as many body panels as possible

>add offroad tires, while changing out the shocks/struts and/or chain if clearance becomes an issue

>paint it

>done

I'm nocarz right now. Is there a reason I shouldn't buy this?

https://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/cto/6166982790.html

>>13422

>needs to be towed

Are you just looking for a car so you can get to places, or are you looking for a project car?

>>13424

so I can get to places, but an Olds 442 is my dream car and this is so goddamn close. I know it's a pipe dream I just wish it wasn't

>>13428

I guess it comes down to how much time/money you have. If you can take the time, and have the money, to restore the car then go for it. However if you need something right away to get around places then unfortunately you need to look at something else. What type of budget do you have?

>>13429

Gonna have to get a loan from the bank cuz I only have about 1000 liquid and even spending that I'd be cutting it really close on bills. I don't want to go too much higher than 4000, Ideally closer to 3000.I have 3 weeks of rental coverage so I need to find a car by then.

My gut instinct is telling me miata, Small,, good on gas, entertaining enough, and from the buzz around here reliable and easy to wrench on. Seems like a good starting point. I did kinda fall in love with the aesthetic of the Dodge Daytona and 80d Nissans but I might be biting off more than I can chew with them.

Thinking about installing a cold air intake in place of my stock filter, is this a good project for a relatively new hobbyist to pursue?

Any recommendations for parts that have good price to quality ratio?

>>13587

CAI's usually don't add much significant horsepower gains, even though it takes literally two minutes to install one. Other than ricers who don't know what they're doing, I usually hear people add on a CAI either because they are about to add forced induction to a previously N/A engine or they're people with N/A engines that just like the different intake noise. Same goes for aftermarket exhausts, if you replace intake noise with exhaust noise.

If by "project" you don't mean maintenance that you would otherwise do on a shitbox (change fluids, clear up fogged headlights, fix dents, etc.), then here are some "performance" mods I would suggest for someone relatively new

>upgraded brakes (even just new pads helps, but new discs do make a difference)

>coilovers and/or other suspension mods

>short shifter

>aftermarket seats

>sway bar(s)

>aftermarket steering wheel

>weight reduction (literally a free mod, could possibly make money off of removed components)

However, the absolute first thing you should upgrade on any "sports car" is your tires because they determine how well you can do basically everything from acceleration and stopping distance to handling and ride quality. It wont be the cheapest mod you can do (and you wont be able to do it by yourself without a machine unless you are installing big truck tires, but that's okay because Walmart Auto Center isn't that expensive), but I would still say its the best bang for your buck due to how many things it influences. Coilovers are probably #2 in that regard, and I would have some on my MR2 Spyder if I could afford them right now (needs new brakes and it's a good excuse to upgrade :D)

As far as parts that have a good price to quality ration, I would search the forums for your particular make and model. Fans for a car will usually be able to tell you what makes are shit, what makes are good for the money, and which ones are overpriced for what you get.

>>13599

Great reply, this is all some really good stuff. I already went ahead and bought the intake, but next thing I do will probably be tires. Do you have any suggestions or recommended brands? Also, why can't I do it at home if I already have a jack?

Making a rat rod seems like it would a be a good first project for someone with limited funds since it's less about mechanical skill and more about making shit work with what you have. Am I mistaken In thinking this would be more inexpensive than restoring a classic or even something like a fox body or F-body?

addendum, is it absolute heresy to make a rod from something newer or do I HAVE to go with something pre-1960?

>>13604

sounds like a fun project, ive got access to a machine shop and the skill to use it so it'd be neat to just make all the shit on my own and have a truly custom vehicle

>>13605

I have a dremel and a patch of unlevel grass. If the grass belonged to me I'd invest in a sawzall and make my dead cavalier into a monster. I was thinking miata though

>>13602

>tire brands

Depends on what size your tires are. My MR2 Spyder has tire sizes that are such that the undisputed modern day best sport tires are Yokohama S Drives (except for dedicated track tires that would be useless/dangerous on the streets) so that is what I bought. How I figured out those are what I should buy is the following actions

>go onto tirerack(dot)com

>look up tires for my car

>enter results into search engine of choice followed by the word "reviews" easy for me because my only options were the pretty good Yokohama S Drives and some mediocre Omaha things

>buy said tires from whoever gives you the best deal (more me it just so happened to be on tirerack(dot)com)

>why can't I do it at home if I already have a jack?

personal experience trying the DIY approach with 15" tires. You can get them off okay with enough soapy water, pry bars and swearing but getting new ones on is another story. The "side walls" on smaller tires are so stiff that you can fucking stand on the things with your full body weight and, while the first edge will get onto the wheel, they wont compress enough to get on your wheels. The reason those machines work at all is because they use a fucking shitload of pressure to force the tire onto the wheel, as in more than twice your body weight unless you're a supreme fatass. This isn't a problem with stuff like tractor tires or big truck/SUV tires because there is more rubber material between the bead and the edge of the tire which adds more room to flex, making it possible to do with your body weight alone. The only time I have seen someone able to do a self install without a machine on small wheels is when ricers put on tires that are far too small for their wheels, which is a terrible idea for multiple reasons.

>MUH NEARLY FLAT TIRE STANCE AESTHETICS, BRUH

>>13604

>"""rat rod"""

I think what you're actually trying to say is you want to get a cheaper car and do whatever the fuck you want with it because its your car and nobody else's. People who hate fun call it "ricing" even though ricing is something different (wanting people to think your car is fast when its power is either equal or less than stock)

Whether or not its a good first project with limited funds depends on how deep you want to go. Make sure you reserve enough money to actually keep the thing on the road. No amount of metal working fabrication or duct tape is going to help you if you need a new fuel pump or alternator.

>>13607

Aren't a lot of good donor classics out here. I figured it might be a little easier to just hack a running and simple car but worn out car down like an old trashed miata to a frame and engine and then build up rather than try and cobble together something from the junkyard that can actually run. Rat rod seems to be the term for a car that everyone hates you for making so I figured it was apt.

Looking at a 93 Accord. Seems like a great deal (asking is $3k), looking for something fun that I can ease myself into mechanics with. Does anything look fishy here? And what does "sitting on coils and sleeves" mean?

>Has a JDM H23A PDE Spec engine

>JDM M2A4 H22 non LSD transmission

>Both are from HMO (~45k miles)

>Brand New full exhaust

>It has an aftermarket traction bar (innovative)

>5 lug conversion with 17" Drifz wheels

>NRG quick release steering wheel and hub setup

>It's sitting on coils and sleeves right now

>Aeromotive 340lph fuel pump

>New Radiator

>New distributor

>New Timing Belt

>New Water Pump

>New ignition coil

>New spark plugs and wires

>New valve cover gasket set

>New PCV valve

>New stage 1 Exedy Clutch set

>New Flywheel

>New Michelin Tires

>>13607

Shit alright, that sounds good to me. I just ordered the intake, cost about $130. I also got some insulating foam tubes and a plastic trash bin, which I plan to use for making a housing to keep hot air from being sucked into the intake. My car had a stock ram under the hood which directed air to the filter, so I can just use that and my new design together for maximum outside air.

/o/tists, i fucked up. in a rush to jump my car i accidentally reversed polarity on the battery cables (dead car was correct). The jumper car is fine, but the dead car wont come back to life. how bad did I fuck up?

>>11248

Are there any good guides about repairing a car in most of its basic parts, regardless of the model?

By the way, you might want to make the thread a cyclical one.

I'm not an automotive guy, so please bear with me on this:

I need to buy a new truck for working with my cousin. I'll be driving it from New York to South Carolina, and will need some decent towing power.

~$12k or under is what I'm aiming for.

Any suggestions?

>>13664

>new truck in NY under $12k

Rust is probably an issue where you are, but my first choice would be a 1980-1996 Ford F-150/250/350. They're good, reliable trucks for the most part, parts are available everywhere for cheap, and they should be well within your budget. All engines from the extremely reliable 6cyl 300/4.9L to the big 7.3L diesels have plenty of torque for towing.

Transmissions, especially the light duty manual transmissions in some F-150s, are typically the weakest part of these trucks. The earlier E4OD automatic transmissions had some issues, but if it was made or rebuilt after 1995, it should be very reliable. The older C-6 automatics are also very strong and reliable.

The 1973-1987 Chevrolet/GMC pickups also have a strong following for similar reasons, but I don't have any direct experience with them. GM put almost the same engines and transmissions in other cars that I do have some experience with, however. GM V8 engines are usually strong and reliable, and while the TH400 and 4L80E automatic transmissions are some of the strongest automatic transmissions around, the 700R4 and 4L60 are somewhat weak in stock trim, especially those made prior to 1986. have no idea what the manual transmissions were like for that generation. As with Fords, parts for older GM vehicles are generally very common and inexpensive.

I see your post on the front page, but not in the thread. Weird.

>>13609

I don't know about those cars specifically, but with all those new engine parts at that price I wonder what is wrong with it. The radiator and water pump make it sound like it was overheating, and the distributor/timing belt/coil/spark plugs/PCV lead me to suspect it runs like crap and they're chasing a problem somewhere. I would probably test drive it all the same, but if there is anything at all even slightly weird or off about it or the way it runs, I would walk away. It also sounds a little too ricey for my taste, but if it runs okay and isn't a hideous abomination with 30 degrees of negative camber and tires four sizes too small for the wheels, it could be a good car.

>coils and sleeves

I think that means height-adjustable coil-over suspension as opposed to the stock coil spring over a shock absorber, which is something similar but different.

>>13637

Depends on the car. Usually, cars are designed to prevent fuckups like this from causing damage. Does engine turn over when you turn the key? Do the headlights or dash lights turn on at all? Did you check for blown fuses? Did you try using a wall charger to charge the battery?

>>13664

earlier reply is solid and I would also suggest looking into trucks made by Toyota or Nissan as well. A Tundra or Titan should be able to handle far more than you'll ever need to tow and are arguably the most reliable trucks you can buy overall of any generations. They hold their value really well too, and for good reason. If anyone gives you shit for owning a non-American truck, not that you should care, remind them that they are in fact assembled in the good old USA and that their modern American shitbox probably has components made in Mexico, India, and The UK

>>13643

some YouTube channels:

EricTheCarGuy

ChrisFix

ScottyKilmer

TheHumbleMechanic

MightyCarMods (mostly early seasons, as the later seasons are mainly crazier stuff, although they do still cover basic things like replacing fuel injectors and spark plugs)

Really though, there are dozens of guides for everything. The only time you should really run into an issues is if you have a unique/strange problem and/or a car that hasn't been documented all that well. such is life when you own an MR2 Spyder and literally your only option sometimes is the obscure repair manual that I only recently just found after loads of digging

>>13667

have any insight on any of the issues the 7th through 9th gen f150's have? I've been looking at the ones with the 300 i6 w/ manual box.

>>13741

I've had 3 5.0 f150s. When i get them i just check for body rot at the cab/bed/core support bushings. Also the rear spring hangers rot and break. The leverage that into the negotiations.

>>13863

What country?

>>13877

US, I was wondering if their are any recent good cars.

>>13914

>recent good cars

0

>>13914

>reliable

>cheap parts

>easy to work on

>fun to drive

>recent

Pick maybe two and go from there. There's no car that fits all of that.

>>13931

Reliable and easy to work on

>>13931

I think you can reasonably pick three in a handful of cases.

miata

>reliable

>easy to work on

>fun

fox body mustang

>reliable (as americans go)

>cheap parts

>easy to work on

>can even be fun to go sideways

90s jap almost anything

>reliable

>cheap parts

>easy to work on

Then there are some that only fulfill one or two.

Saab 900 turbo

>reliable

>fun, as fwd goes

if you add a category it's also

>extremely practical

>>13931

Reliable and easy to work on its my first real buy, had a 2001 Acura CL type s but that thing was starting to get expensive with constant maintaince had about 180,000 miles on it so it was getting there, parts weren't cheap. So now looking for something that is a good daily commute and easy to work on, since I am just learning.

>>13934

Any specific miata?

>any 90s jap car

Thought about getting a Accord or a Corolla, maybe a Nissan Maxima

>>13936

>So now looking for something that is a good daily commute and easy to work on

What kind of work are you looking at doing on it? I would suggest that, especially since you are learning, that working on your daily might not be the best idea.

>>13938

Just small things, really. Oil changing, spark plugs, air filters, etc etc. Gradually work my way up, but I suppose you are right. Still, got any suggestions?

>>13937

NA Miata is the only one deserving of any respect.

Accords, Corollas, and Maximas are going to mostly be shitboxes. A32 Maxima supposedly has a nice engine, but I don't know how expensive parts would be. Hondas are like legos so parts will cost you peanuts, and they made so many Corollas the same applies there.

>>13938

As long as you stay within your limits, you can't really break anything. Obviously he's not going to be replacing his transmission or something crazy like that if he's starting out. Probably doesn't even have the tools for that.

>Accords, Corollas, and Maximas are going to be shitboxes

Why do you say that? I was always under the impression that these things last awhile and have cheap parts

>>13941

They will last a while and be cheap, but maybe except for the Maxima, they will be barebones, uncomfortable and probably not be in great visual condition.

>>13980

For the GTO, just ask an Aussie about the Monaro, it's literally the same damn car

>>13980

What, in particular, do you want to know about the Monaro?

>>14008

I'm assuming that you'll be looking at the CV8 VZ version that came out around late 2004.

>DD

Comfy leather interior with all the accessories that were around in 2004. Some models come with a sun roof. Chews fuel, as done any V8, but I'm assuming that's not an issue if you're looking at buying one.

>gear box

From what I know this is in reference to the automatic transmission and not the manual. The auto was only a 4 speed and typically needed replacement after 180,000kms.

>need to look out for

Heavy modifications. Being in America it could be less of an issue but a lot of them here are bought and extremely heavily modified and ruin the value and performance of the car. A lot of them also get picked up by people who throw them around like a sport car, which they definitely are not.

>look like an asshole

As you're American, probably. However I much prefer the Holden styling in comparison and it was a Holden first and just re-badged so there is an actual reason to use the Holden bumper.

>clutch feel

Dunno, never driven one but I daily a VE SS and the clutch is fine (which is essentially the same build underneath).

You'll pay more for it since it's a bit more rare, as you indicated. I'm not sure how many of the Holden Commodore range made it across re-badged, but you could invest in a SS that has the same build but has a general 4-door sedan body over the top instead of coupe styling. As far as I know the Monaro was a 5.7L, not 6.0L.

>>14008

I'm assuming that you'll be looking at the CV8 VZ version that came out around late 2004.

>DD

Comfy leather interior with all the accessories that were around in 2004. Some models come with a sun roof. Chews fuel, as done any V8, but I'm assuming that's not an issue if you're looking at buying one.

>gear box

From what I know this is in reference to the automatic transmission and not the manual. The auto was only a 4 speed and typically needed replacement after 180,000kms.

>need to look out for

Heavy modifications. Being in America it could be less of an issue but a lot of them here are bought and extremely heavily modified and ruin the value and performance of the car. A lot of them also get picked up by people who throw them around like a sport car, which they definitely are not.

>look like an asshole

As you're American, probably. However I much prefer the Holden styling in comparison and it was a Holden first and just re-badged so there is an actual reason to use the Holden bumper.

>clutch feel

Dunno, never driven one but I daily a VE SS and the clutch is fine (which is essentially the same build underneath).

You'll pay more for it since it's a bit more rare, as you indicated. I'm not sure how many of the Holden Commodore range made it across re-badged, but you could invest in a SS that has the same build but has a general 4-door sedan body over the top instead of coupe styling. As far as I know the Monaro was a 5.7L, not 6.0L.

>>14009

>>14010

RIP 8ch.

>>14014

>added a 6.0L

Noice. If you want to daily an Australian V8 both the Monaro and SS would be good. You're in a lucky position of the Monaro being more available than the SS. If I was in your position I'd lean towards the Monaro, especially if they're the cheaper option.

>>13980

Have you also considered the Cadillac CTS-V? It's another RWD V8-powered sedan available in America and I'm pretty sure you can actually get them for cheaper than a G8 or GTO now and it is the only worthwhile thing that Cadillac has made since the 50's/60's, tbh. Depending on the trim and generation, it can have the same engine as either a GTO or a C5 Corvette Z06. Consider that a mid-range option between a Mustang on the low end and a GTO on the high end.

>>14020

Does the auto G8 come with a 6 speed? I have no idea how they'd perform in snow considering they were designed in Australia and te worst we get is tropical storms and hail on occasion. I guess throwing some snow tyres on would do the trick.

Would you make any modifications to whichever car you end up getting? It'd be neat to see a twin of my car over in the US.

>>14025

posted the same pics lol 8chan

>>14143

Are you Spanish?

>>14150

I'm white

Like actually white not "FUCKING WHITE"

Looking at a new (used) daily that has decent fuel economy. Doesn't need to go fast. Have decided to steer clear of anything European as parts are expensive. Which of these would be the better option ?

>2012 Ford Fiesta Zetec WT

>2011 Holden Cruze SRi JH Series II

>2011 Mazda 3 SP25 BL Series 1

>2009 Ford Focus TDCi LT

>>14263

I'd say avoid the Cruze, anything GM made or sometimes even makes to this day are all based on 20 year old Daewoos.

Focus would be better than the Fiesta considering it's diesel, but I'd give the 3 a real look at.

>>14285

Thanks. I've been doing as much internet hunting for reviews as possible of the Cruze is definitely off the list. There are a couple of 3's around that are sitting at the top of the list. There are also a '08 Polo GTI 9N and a '12 Kia Rio SLS in the price bracket I'm looking at which could be decent options.

Is the Civic type R any good? is it supposed to be like the Subaru for toyota?

I am looking at getting a US made half-ton truck for under $5.5k. I will be mainly using as a DD with towing and hauling as the need arises. I am not sold on diesel vs gas at the moment, but I do not think my budget, or needs, fit a diesel very well.

So far I have been given a lot of biased input on the big three, and at the moment I have been fixated on the first gen dodges. Specifically, I found a '93 power ram that is pretty clean for $4k. It has the 5.2 Magnum and, I believe, A518 tranny. It seems like the first gen rams are pretty bullet proof, but it is difficult to find any objective data on engine/transmission failures of older vehicles. I am not loyal to one brand in particular, but I am a fan of the older truck looks.

Any suggestions or advice is appreciated.

>>14309

>Civic Type R

>Like the subaru for toyota

I'm not sure I understand the entire flavor of your statement, but it can't possibly be like the GT86/BRZ, because one is a throwback, old school FR 2+2 with an absolute focus on simplicity, handling balance and an analog feel at the detriment of power, and the other is a 306 HP FWD turbo hot hatch with electronic drive modes, electric parking brake, automatic rev match and all that jank.

They are polar opposites.

That doesn't make it a bad car, it's the perfect car if what you want is a 306 HP fwd turbo hot hatch with electronic jank and garish body styling.

That doesn't make the GT86/BRZ a bad car, it's the perfect car if you want to do the slow-car-fast thing and chill in a classy looking coupe.

Went and had a look at a 08 Polo GTI 9N3 as a new daily to replace my V8 which I want to turn into a project car of sorts. No good, could hear that the timing belt was playing up and the seats were surprisingly uncomfortable. Tried out some Lancer hatch after that but it was big hunk of shit with absolutely no guts to it.

Looks like a '10-'12 Mazda 3 is going to be the only option available to me within my price range sub $10k ausfagian. Anything in particular to look out for with them?

>>14378

Look it up, but I think the first year of the facelift was also the first year separate from Ford and the Focus platform - in other words, I think that year range is the first generation of a new Mazda platform, and may come with some issues inherent to a new platform. Look up issues to be sure, though.

What're some good sources besides Craigslist for cheap old cars? Most of the listings in my area are awful. probably because rural california

>>14417

Ebay Motors occasionally has good/decent deals.

If you're that far out you might want to extend your search a bit on Craigslist or otherwise. Might have to go down to the LA/SanFran area to get a good enough deal. Sure you would either need a favor or a bus trip and Uber drive over to get there, but if you're certain enough that it'll be fine and that you'll be able to get it for the price you want then the expense will be worth it. I personally had to take Uber to the next state over to get my car, then drove it back home.

>>14409

Ended up getting a 9th gen Honda Civic VTi-S. My local car market lacks options and is pretty overpriced so I ended up traveling over 1000kms to find one at a decent price.

>>11248

I have a Ford Fiesta Mk5 with the gutless and rattly 1.3l endura engine. If I got my hands on a 1.25 zetec S engine for the same model, I could pretty much bolt it right in, yes?

>>14428

Thanks for the advice. Ended up getting a really clean unmolested EG Civic from some guy in South Lake Tahoe. Worth it.

>>14556

If you're going with smaller displacement because you're a new rider then you can also get away with something with 350 or 500-ish cc's as well. These older bikes aren't going to be as twitchy as more modern sport bikes so you could even get away with something like a 70's Honda CB750 if you're an older first-time rider. If you are DEAD SET on Yamaha then an RD350 sounds like a good option. If not then I'd suggest also looking into the Honda CB series, the Kawasaki KH series, and the Suzuki GS series. Really though, these bikes can be found cheap enough on the used market in complete/nearly complete condition that it kind of wouldn't be worth it to buy just a frame for them. Would still need a good tune up and restoration done though, so you'd still get that mechanical experience you're after as well (as is the case with fixing up any bike, but especially with vintage bikes).

>>14559

If by "chink" you mean Chinese, then yes they are that bad. If you buy a Chinese motorcycle/scooter, expect it to break before you hit 4000km. Just save up your money for a Japanese example and possibly just wait for the right bike listing to come along as well.

>>14575

Meh, i will keep looking to see if anyting interesting shows up.

The CB750 is out of question because i will certainly drop the bike, and it's parts are very expensive it is gorgeous straight from the factory, i would keep it original. And i fear the CB450 would be the same, and some stupid legislation says that i can only use that ugly, square headlight.

The only option for 80s bikes is to pick a CG 125 or something similar, really. But then there's the issue that they might be too small for me…

Honestly, i'm thinking of geting a new off-road oriented dual sport to get the hang of it, and then buy the "pretty bike" in the future.

How do I get good with cars?

>>14636

Drive them more

1st time buyer here.

Limit is £5000.

Narrowed it down to a 350z or a golf GTi.

Any others that I should check out for easy maintenance that are reasonably fast?

>>14665

What kind of 350z could you ever buy with £5000? You're at risk of buying a beaten up ride that will cost you more than your initial buying price. A 3ed gen golf is more reasonable. You could also go for a VR6 for this price range or a 306 S16.

For some extra lulz and mechanical complexity you could buy a 88 Supra or RX7. While they're not extra fast for today's standards, they still can outrun most of the dailies on the street.

>>14672

Holy gosh golly gee I think it was the gas cap. I didn't think a fucking gas cap could go bad, but the light went off. This was the best $6 fix ever.

>>14665

>easy maintenance

>VW

>>14671

>VR6

>supra

>rx7

NO

If you want easy maintenance you do not want any of these things. I don't know about the 306 because they don't sell them in the USA.

If you want a decent sports car daily, here are some options off the top of my head (from my knowledge of USDM and limited knowledge of EUDM)

>any Honda Si or Type-R model, or an S2000 (you're lucky in that you have way more options there than we do)

>B13 Nissan Sentra SE-R, any Silvia (imo newer Fairladies are ugly, and they are heavy)

>3rd gen Toyota MR2 (tiny, terrible cargo space, stupid reliable), or any Celica

>mini trucks can be fun

>Saab NG900 (not 9-3 - the first generation is basically just a refreshed NG900 but they designed a new engine management system and updated the internals to be lighter and less durable)

>Mk3 VW maybeeee, don't really know much about them

All I know about European Fords is that the ones they sent over here have pretty shitty electronics.

I have no idea what the market looks like over there so who knows what you could find from this list for 5k GBP.

>>14695

I agree with the maintenance part.

But

>type R or S2000 for £5000 lel

>silvia for £5000 lel

>3rd gen MR2 for £5000 lel

nah mate

But a 306/205 gti are easy and realiable. They look pretty blend though.

>>14699

MR2 Spyder owner here.I paid $2800 for mine. You can easily find one in decent condition for $4000 if you're patient/dedicated. Replacement costs for 80% of the parts are cheap too since it shares parts with the Celica, Matrix, etc.

>>14747

The European car market is nowhere as cheap as the American one. So much that I already considered buying a new Audi in a US dealership to import it back to Europe to save some monies (yes, even after the taxes and fees and shipping).

>>14750

You must mean the new car market. Here in baltics for 5k you can get any mid-tier car in acceptable condition that is hardly 10 years old.

Yeah though, te new car market is absloutely unbearable.

>>14775

Yes you can, but not an MR2 in decent condition or a S2000.

So what's yalls opinions on modern Mustangs or Ford Focus?

Hey /o/, if you had zero experience at all and wanted to start learning how to build a motorcycle from the ground up, where would you start and what path would you take?

First time buyer looking for a utilitarian used car in the 5k-7.5k range. Basically I just need something that will get me comfortably from place to place and won't break down easily.

Things I care about:

>Gas mileage

>Visibility

>Reliability

>Comfortable and preferably somewhat spacious

Things I do not care about:

>Looking good

>Being "fun to drive"

>Being modifiable

Things that would be nice to have but are not deal breakers:

>Good handling

>Quiet interior

>Not looking like complete garbage

Any suggestions? Also are hybrids a good idea when you get them used, or is the potential to have to replace the battery too high?

>>15048

As usual, Ford can't build a decent engine in less than 20 years. AFAIK all new models are plagued with electrical and transmission problems.

>>15054

>Gas mileage

>Visibility

>Reliability

>Comfortable and preferably somewhat spacious

>Not looking like complete garbage

90s to early 00s Honda Accord. Toyota Camry is also good but doesn't come in a manual.

If you also need:

>Quiet interior

90s to early 00s Lexus ES

>Good handling

First generation Lexus IS (probably).

Just a few of my suggestions, and easy ones. Basically anything Toyota or Honda will be reliable (there are exceptions) and personally I would avoid anything newer than mid 2000s because I don't like electronics.

>hybrids

I would stay away from them because of the expensive parts from a relatively new and uncommon technology. I have no idea what the specific wear parts are or how often they have to be replaced.

>>15056

>>15054

Can someone give me a second opinion? I am not adverse to electronics or automatic drive, so these might not be the right choices.

>>15056

thanks anon

I've got a 2013 FB Civic hatch. The boot/hatch, for whatever reason, comes loose from time to time and sets the door open sensor off. The boot itself doesn't come open but there is play there, almost like the boot latch has only slightly been opened so it still holds the boot shut but there's a tiny bit of wriggle there. I have no idea how to fix this and can't find a similar issues appearing anywhere else online.

>>15109

Have you tried taking off the trunk latch and inspecting it? You might need to replace it or even just clean some debris that got in there, which is thankfully a cheap and easy fix.

>>15124

I think I found the issue/solution. Seems that when I double hit the unlock on my key fob (to open the windows) it, for whatever reason, decided to briefly unlatch the boot release. It's a new key fob that was programmed to the car so I think that's the root cause. Nevertheless thanks for the suggestion. I did have a look and couldn't find anything and that's what led me to the key fob.

What aftermarket radio would you recommend?

>>15357

For what car/what do you want it to do? Just a radio?

So I'm getting a rough, scraping sound from the back of my car, an NC Miata. I thought it was the diff at first, but that seems not to be the case. I think it's more likely the universal joint, but how common is this problem, and how can I tell it's not my diff? I know it's not the brakes. They sound much different from the sound I hear, even when I lift my car on jack stands.

>>15357

I've been wondering the same. There are tablet kits that you can put right in your dash if you're into that. That's what I've been considering. Or did you mean something with nice audio?

>>15054

used honda civic

>>15397

First of all, main gril is a whore. Second, Initial D is a boring Chinese cartoon. Third, AE86 is shit. Complete shit. Buy a Miata, or if you feel suicidal, buy an MR2.

>>15407

I have not watched it, should i?

>>15408

Initial D is okay if you only watch the first season.

Spilled some coolant in my engine compartment, didnt clean it up considering i was in a hurry. Noticed later my belts started to squeak. Is it a big deal and i should clean it from the compartment or will it be fine?

>>15537

It will be fine, is just wet now.

>>15543

thanks anon

Longtime neet with no car repair experience here, unfortunately im employed and earning dosh for the next 3 months and for the past couple months i have been contemplating making a mobile neet home by buying a van, ripping shit out of the back and putting comfy stuff in.

I have done digging and know most of the comfy shit, but theres so many conflicting van experiences im lost in which ones are reliable longterm, i also live in aus and this would be a hobby project and not my main ride.

>tl;dr good reliable vans? I havnt checked import laws or pricing but it might be feasible.

Non motorhead in to pick your brains:

I'm looking for a motor with

-high mpg

-very low maintenance ("runs like a tank" level reliability)

-economical to run

-doesn't require booting up (computer controlled "everything is hackable" newer models)

What sort of motors should I be concentrating my search on that fulfills these requirements?

I've got two so far - Toyota MX5, and Fiat Panda but there must be more /o/?

>>15641

I've heard of a few people from the UK who have done that with a Ford Transit van (driven in Europe for extended holidays, or live there for a while), so there should be vblogs and info about it.

>>15699

ok.

>>15690

If you don't want computer controlled, take the latest engine you can find that runs a distro, so probably a late 90's Honda D16, convert to points ignition and bike carbs.

>>15702

>computer controlled

>they all are

"key ignition" would have been a better descriptor tbh

>>15705

>>15702

>Don't want computerised everything, i'm not a car guy

<Install carbs

Fat chance. Though i never even though of it being possible. It could be, but would take some creativity with fitting, fuel pump and adjusting it so it runs reliably.

Most cars even today have mechanical ignition keys, if you are wondering about that. Though i am waiting for manufacturers to someday return to carbuerators. I prefer mechanical puzzles over software.

Hey guys. In a few months I'm getting my mom's 06 Chrysler Pacifica and I will be trading it towards something more me. I've been a cyclefag for a while and didn't do much mechanical stuff as a kid so I'd like something I can start to learn maintenance on. I also am a rockhound and would like to start making regular trips from Missouri to Colorado for prospecting. Speed and fashion are not important, but reliability, ease and price of repairs, and ability to eat highway at 80+ mph for several hundred miles up mountains at a time are. Gas mileage and comfiness are important too, and I'll be looking for something cheaper. I know fuck all about this shit so if I'm unrealistic please do tell me.

>>15690

>toyota mx-5

Moving on. Basically any Japanese 4 cylinder. Toyota 22R/22RE, Nissan KA24, whatever similar Honda engines. If you want zero computers you have to go 70s or older.

>>15702

>carb conversion

Is that even practically possible? I don't think so.

>>15754

You're chasing the perfect machine, which doesn't really exist. 1st and 2nd generation Toyota 4runners and Nissan hardbodies/first generation Pathfinders should be close in terms of reliability, but 80+ in those will be pretty sketchy to say the least, and they won't be very luxurious either. You'd be lucky to get A/C.

>>15830

Carb conversions are possible. There have been plenty of LeMONS racing teams that have given up on trying to figure out how the fuck electrical injection works and just strapped a carbuerator on the engine.

>>15857

The only thing I would recommend studying is a basic background of electrics and electronics. Aside from that, the way I learned was I just plunged for said shitbomb and figured it out as I went. It's incredibly helpful when you're reading about something and can see it right in front of you in tangible space; I learned so much more by doing than reading any single book or website.

>>11248

Hello, I am in the process of buying a honda S2000 engine to drop into a subaru legacy. I want to put a turbo or two on it but the spacing in the engine bay is a little weird. Any major problems with this or is this swap going to be okay? Any tips would be greatly appreciated.

So I'm working on a 2010 Dodge Ram 1500 4.7l V8, doing it's spark plugs (which there are 16 of the fuckers because dodge thought two sparkplugs was a good idea). As I'm working on it, it's kinda hard to remove the coil packs from the top row. This change is long overdue and apparently the boots for the coil packs have bonded slightly to the old sparkplugs.

Well one went and fucking broke on me while I was pulling it out, so now I have an old sparkplug in the block, with a broken boot keeping me from removing it. So do I just have to keep digging out old rubber, or is there helpfil hint one of you guys have?

>>15908

Two spark plugs per combustion chamber actually allows for a cleaner and more thorough burn, so it's not as pointless as you might think. As for removing the boot remnants, try hitting it with a blowtorch and burning the rubber out.

Collegefag here, caught the LS400 bug a few months ago and honestly considering buying one as my first car. Basically just want a reality check whether this is totally stupid or not:

* Budget is $6000 for car and all immediate repairs, would like to keep it under $5k

* Live in Minnesota - rust, RWD rarity, all that shit

* Have access to a battered to shit 04' Impala that will most likely be gifted to me when I move out if I don't buy the LS400

* Only mechanical experience is oil and bulb changes and binging on Chris Fix

Really smart or super dumb?

>>15984

Stick to the Impala. Invest those 5 grand in that. Less shit to break and easier to fix.

>>15985

That was my instinct, but I have a feeling that the value of LS400s is going up and I'm running out of time to get a decent one before the prices go up. It's my attainable dream car, always loved the looks of early nineties luxury cars like the BMW E38, etc. and hearing that the LS400 is actually reliable and has modern features turned me on to the idea of buying one. Also the Impala is shit, no expensive repairs so far but has rust, paint damage and tree sap on top of an ugly gold color.

Unless my theory about values going up is wishful thinking? I know 80s German cars values have been skyrocketing lately and LS400 looks to be next in line.

>>15986

If the value goes up, it'll be in ten years or more. Japanese luxuries aren't a thing to collect for now (except Centuries, but…). I'd stick to the Impala too.

If one things fucks up on your LS400, you're in for a shitload of pricy repairs you wouldn't afford.

So I was a huge faggot and fucked the paint on my high gloss black rim. Do I just have to bite the bullet and take them somewhere to be repaired?

sup faggots

i'm going to be getting a different car in about a year. will be getting something new or with less than 15k miles. can spend about 45-55k.

looking for something with power thats not a mustang or a challenger. my current car has about 310hp and i'm hoping to get something in the 400-500 range to replace it

some of my ideas

lexus rcf

cadillac ats-v

amg cla45

>>16088

Eurofag point of view here:

Don't get the CLA. Even by our standards it´s cramped as hell. Get a C-class AMG or a M2/M3 or even M4 if you find one that cheap.

Consider the Audi RS3 if you're not afraid of small sedans or hatchbacks.

I personnaly love the ATS-V and find the lexus a bit dull, but that's only a matter of taste.

If you don't need space, consider a Porsche. Caymans or entry level 911 are possible to find at that price. You won't have more than 400 hp (or maybe you could, the US market is really cheaper than ours) but boy you'll feel like they're there.

How about a GT-R? I'm pretty sure you can find one at your prices. You get awd and well, all the power you need.

If you wanna be a bit excentric, try the Giulia Quadrifoglio. I'm pretty sure you can find one for 50k used in the US. It's a sedan, close technically to the Charger but hey, Italian spirit. You get power and space.

>>16121

Skip the K&N air filter. Everything else looks good.

>>16208

any particular reason why? or brand you recommend? seems like a pretty popular mod.

>>16209

Waste of money. Unless you actually seriously hop up the engine, the stock airbox works just fine.

<but the box said 15 horsepower

>>16215

didnt say 15, but i've read 10hp is common. thb im a little interested in the fact that you knocked the cai and not the exhaust. i've read the exhaust gives gains of 0-3% in most cases.

>>16233

An exhaust would at least sound nice.

>>15988

LS400 fag back again, pretty sure I want to buy one (at least enough to test drive one and fall in lust). However, I've run into another obstacle: my dad, after telling him about it, had a hissyfit about it being rear wheel drive and is threatening to kick me out of the house if I buy one. The fact that I would buy winter tires for it was no consolation for him. Evidently a 3 ton RWD conversion van with bald-ass all seasons is safe though, and so is driving summer tires in the winter in his new BMW "because it has all wheel drive". I digress but has anyone had any success changing parents' minds in this situation?

>>16292

Live in your Lexus then

>>16292

Any updates, anon?

>>16292

If you plan to live there through college, you're going to have to compromise. Even if he relents, he will be bitter and it will be a source of friction as long as you're there. You should probably get your first wreck or two out of the way before you buy your dream car anyway, body work is expensive, assuming you don't total it out. For what it's worth, if you don't yet understand why the AWD BMW or the van is safer on ice than a FR V8 sedan, I'm inclined to agree with your pops.

>>16398

Holy shit, I was so tired I didn't realize he was talking about snow conditions. It makes sense now.

>>16292

Your father is only looking out for you. I wouldn't even drive an FR V8 unless I absolutely had to. No engine weight keeping the rear wheels down means you'll be sliding into a tree or pole before you can say "sandbags in the trunk".

My point still stands, drive an FF or AWD. get a late 90s/early 00s Continental if you have money to burn, want a v8 sedan, and don't want to drive the Impala.

I have two questions about my 99 Cadillac Seville STS. The first one is rather simple, the second I don't even know what the issue is. The first question is how do I clean out 10 day old dairy stains/mold from my carpet? The second question is a sloshing noise it makes especially getting out of first gear (perhaps the noise of trapped fluid going into motion). Seems like if I accelerate fast with it I'll sometimes hear a sloshing that seems to be related to the accelerator in some part. My dad knows a lot more about cars then I do and even he doesn't know what to do. So far nothing has happened as a result of it thankfully.

i

>>15412

>Is Mogi being a whore canon?

Yes she sleeps with "daddy" 3 times a month and gets perplexed by Takumi's wage. They go out and by Third Stage someone lets Takumi know she's a whore and has already fucked a guy from school. Mogi goes to a restaurant with "daddy" to break it off and Takumi catches them, ends the relationship there. Mogi later appears at his birthday party and Takumi says its better to part ways, mogi goes off to uni to meditate on her past.

>>16795

>Was it explicitly even told that she sleeps with him?

Nope but the geezer hints it with complimenting her in the first episode. The letter also implies it.

If it wasn't for that relationship and have it more as Takumi finding out his friend was a whore then i could watch it again.

Decent cars in the UK that aren't completely gimped by insurance? Looking for something fun to drive as a daily but everything that isn't a cuckbox costs a shitload to insure. Budget around £15k

found a great deal on a 2005 RX8 with only 17k miles for just under 3700 dollars. tiptronic but i can't complain for the price. one owner no accidents. my question is are there any red flags i should be on the lookout for since i'm new to rotaries? her acceleration from a dead stop is nothing to write home about but i'm guessing that's just the inherent low torque?

also, assuming the previous owner didn't maintain it properly, like failing to pre-mix, is it still low enough miles that the damage wouldn't be too severe?

>04 v70 starts smanging on the 1-2 shift

>check tranny fluid

>very dark, didn't smell test, but no particulate on the dipstick

>about 96k miles, don't think it's been changed once by the previous owner

>fucking nip, two nukes weren't enough

am I fucked? is this "transmission service" territory, or will a simple fluid replacement help? I've heard that if it's never been flushed, don't flush it because the sediment actually helps. or is that just an old daddies tale?

it's autotragic, pls no bully, it was cheap

>>17020

>04 v70

You mean a Volvo? What do the nips have to do with that?

I'm thinking of getting rid of my mk6 GTI because of the faulty timing chain tensioner that will grenade my car.

I've never worked on a car but I think I could change it myself with the proper tools a manual and patience but I don't know what else would fail on me blow up the engine. Question is I don't know what I want, I'm fucking done with Honda, ugly as sin with fake exhaust, vents and the boy racer faggots, American cars are shit, Subaru are for gays and stoners and are legitmately awful. I don't understand why cars can't be simple, every car has one or 2 major faults that are off putting. Guess I'll start walking everywhere.

>>17023

previous owner was a nip.

95-05 covers three generations and some pretty dramatic mechanical differences for the Odyssey.

I've got a 2009 Mitsubishi eclipse and it started giving me PO172 after an oil change. I've replaced the MAF and a faulty O2 sensor and it still runs like shit and wants to die while idling. What do I do?

>>17093

Maybe it's not the sensor itself, but the wire connecting to it?

>>17094

Replaced the wires with the sensor

so the timing belt on my shitty piece of junk broke on the highway and the interference engine threw the valves into the piston and sprayed oil and coolant all over the road. Car was worth $1300, new engine is $600, how do I find some autist buy buy my wreck?

>>17251

You can't, just cough up the cash for the engine. Then you will be able to sell it with a tag "Just rebuilt engine"

Hey, frog here buying his first car. Is a 2007 Toyota Auris an okay car?

>>17277

Fellow frog here, the Auris is the most ok car you can buy. The most average.

Thing to consider: if you want to buy one new, ask for a steep cut since the Auris is going to be discontinued soon.

I was driving on the highway in my minivan when I noticed that the steering wheel felt as though it was pulling toward the right side. Tires don't appear to be damaged. I think it might be an alignment issue with the axle but I wanted to have a better understanding before going in to the shop to get it checked out. I recently moved from out of state and I don't want to get screwed over by the mechanic. Anything I should do/look out for before going?

>>17569

Yeah sounds like you just need an alignment. Is this car new to you/has this one happened recently? If it's been going on for a while you should be able to see a wear pattern on your tires that correlates with your symptom of pulling right

>>17027

Such a shitty attitude to dismiss everything that easily. A car is only as reliable as you are. Of course with thousands of vehicles driving around every day every make and model is going to run into some issues but you can do your best to avoid those problems with proper maintenance and planning

>>17714

Belt maybe? Spark Plugs?

>>17716

>>17714

To update this, I think it was a combination of muh winter vortex and something else. I got it running once the weather warmed up, but it was only around -20c the day it was giving me grief, and it's previously been golden as low as -30c. None of the typical temp sensitive stuff I researched made sense either. It had fuel pressure, spark, battery and starter were fine. Any reason why my car would suddenly become unable to start in previously acceptable temps?

could use a first car suggestion. I'm thinking a slightly older camry or accord. rather no a shitty civic. max price 15k

>>17969

What was in it before? Same engine?

Off-road question here

Can one put manual locking hubs on portal axles?

>>18010

While I have a sinking suspicion that this is the /o/ version of the Dragunov (or something like that) that got cut up on /k/ ruse cruise.

Try drilling the bolt out, drill the head away first (so you can see how big the bolt is) and then drill the bolt out starting with bits that are smaller than said bolt (if you want to avoid needing to tap new threads, get bigger bolts).

>>18011

This Jeep is already beat to shit, and is already getting new paint in the somewhat near future. I'm not really worried about scratching the paint, but I am worrying about drilling too far in and hitting the windshield. I'll give it a shot though next time I get a chance to work on it.

>>18012

May as well try and do it right; purchase an easy-out kit and pray the bit doesn't break.

Next time use an impact driver as soon as you detect it's being a bitch.

What I would do at this point would be to cut that groove a little cleaner and try an impact driver on it as is. That hole looks like it's fairly deep, so should have weakened the hold the screw has on it.

>>18014

Overkill. If it's that much of a concern, just mark the depth with a winding of painter's tape.

>>18016

Might be, but if he's asking this many questions on something like this he either isn't experienced (usual) or really doesn't want ANY chance of damage to it (I'm like this with some things of my grandfather's I've fixed) so I'm giving him the safest option either way.