f21648 No.684856 [View All]
What's your current project? Are you addicted to building? How many have you done?
Currently working on: Glock 20
Ordered: Glock 19
Issues: Glock 20 SF parts needed to be bought because I started with a non-SF parts kit.
Wants to build in the future: AR-15, AR-10.
____________________________
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a3bdd3 No.687260
>>687242
An 80% what? AR? Glawk fody?
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f21648 No.687264
>>685792
yes! I need to do some finishing touches but I put it together and it functions.
The striker was really hard to do with depressing a spring while putting those tiny plastic cups on. Glocks are interesting in what went into making them work.
>>685796
I will post pics, I followed this relaxing fellow's videos for most of my build: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L7RSN22BlCc
>>686028
80% is what the ATF determined the maximum a firearm can be completed (their definition of a firearm which is the frame/receiver) before it needs to go to an FFL.
Check out their determination letter. 80% builds have been ok for years and aren't going anywhere unless some (((Las Vegas))) tier bullshit happens.
>>686857
This. And the work as to be machining, they can't just mail you a bag of parts that click together, you have to remove material with a tool.
>>687242
check my video above and see if that helps?
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f177f8 No.687275
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be8451 No.687345
>>687264
>The striker was really hard to do with depressing a spring while putting those tiny plastic cups on.
So assembled the slide as well? I just bought a vickers g19 slide for a pretty good price considering it was during the whole p80 compact craze that was going on.
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39db38 No.687356
If any of you niggers still have a (((faceberg))) you could visit the "80% builder" page. The dudes there are pretty knowledgeable on the subject and have posted numerous build guides and walkthroughs, as well as jig, endmill, and router pros/cons and routine issues/occurrences.
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df211e No.687456
I threw together both a 9mm PF940 and a way overdone AR. Those took up just about all my disposable income for a little while. Glock parts are insanely expensive; even though it would have cost around half of what I spent on the build to just buy one, It's worth it to keep it off the record.
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bf2bc4 No.687470
>>687456
>paid double for non-sellable frankenglawk to keep it off the record
Do you not know what armslist is?
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df211e No.687471
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a3bdd3 No.687512
>>687456
>he didn't just buy a used complete glock upper for like $180
>>687275
Swap out your extractor for a Gen 4 one. I built the exact same gun using shit MidwayUSA swenson parts and it had the same problem.
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0b8d78 No.687515
>>684856
Currently: AR15 (a super shorty .300BLK pistol, and a recce inspired 5.56), AR10 (20" planned), a 10/22, AR9 (glock mag), G17 (original P80, might just practice and learn how to stipple on it because it's ugly), G19 (chopped into a 26 grip, I plan on carrying it one of these years),and a P228… and I think that's it right now.
Ordered: Nothing so far.
Issues: Money.
Wants to build: M535 to MG3 conversion, 22/45, more glawks, ARs so I can share with loved ones. Kind of want a G43 even though I chopped the 19 already. I think I'll buy it when it comes out because why not.
If AK builds were still a thing in 5.45 I'd have bought a Tantal.
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000000 No.688311
Realistically, how much do I need to drop to start building lower 80%s for AR 15s? I have a drill press and a garage and I'm pretty handy with tools. I've also got 1000$ saved up towards a gun but don't want to just go out and buy one.
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dc1087 No.688409
Should I stone P80 rails or is it best to let it break itself in?
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dc1087 No.688410
>>688311
Milling with a drill press is pretty awful. I completely fucked up the spindle taper on mine. It can be done, but if you don't have a mill, the best option is a router jig. That's about 150, plus a compatible router. For the rest of the construction you will want to have a set of roll pin punches, a barrel nut wrench, vise blocks, and hex keys. You can get a complete upper for less than $200 now, and an LPK will run somewhere around $30.
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0d6346 No.688477
I want to build more than just an AR; I want to build a dragunov.
Or barring that the PSL which is fine. But I don't want century-plus old ammo, the venerable x54r. It's fine, and so is .308 but I'd rather have one of these new fangled rounds, suitable for high pressure and long range.
Yes, the 6.5 grendel is getting lots of noise, and an AK in grendel could be bought whole from any Vepr dealer. That might happen, too. But I want to build a PSL in 270WSM.
Oh I want to build an AR-10 in that round too (it should all fit, though I may need to handload to reduce the COAL; factory rounds will fit through the magwell but not with a magazine in the way). But the barrel will be north of $600 and I haven't built a plain .308 AR-10 yet.
But in the world of the AKs and their brethren, it seems like there's a LOT less of a dealer network. Is, in /k/'s opinion, the only way today to build an AK that of buying a demilled, used, military kit and shoving it all into a steel angle-tube? Assuming I could find a barrel manufacture to make me a one-off PSL barrel, I'm still going to need, I'd somewhat assume, one-off trunions, and a magnum sized bolt/carrier to be sure. Probably extra heavy springs?
Where do you guys shop to piece together a totally custom AK-alike?
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eed1be No.688566
I'm building my first ar-15. I decided to go with a 5D tactical jig and Aero parts except for the Toolcraft BCG, Faxon barrel and gas system, Noreen 7075 forged lower, and B5 Bravo stock. I've finished the lower and both the upper and lower parts kits are assembled. Im just waiting on the barrel, handguard, and gas system to get here now. Everything function checks except for the bolt catch. Sometimes it catches, sometimes it doesn't. When it does, a hard slap to the reciever usually makes it release. I'm going to compare it to a friend's ar and the Deterrence Dispenced CAD model to try to figure out if it's the catch or the lower reciever. I've tried to manually use the catch and got the same result, so my mags are fine. I can tell that even when I put my fingers in the mag well and force the catch up, it's barely touching the bolt lugs. I'm really hoping the reciver wasn't machined incorrectly. Aside from that though, the build is going great!
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27071a No.688567
I build ak's my most recent one was an 80% polish receiver romy kit build with an AOA nitride barrel
>>688477
I've tinkered with the thought of a 350 Wsm Psl. I think its possible with the proper receiver reinforcements and an adjustable gas block. The trick is to find a cartridge that's close enough to an og ak variant round. That way you can use factory parts with a bit of adjusting instead of making new parts of dubious quality.
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27071a No.688568
>>688477
Ak parts websites
Armsofamerica.com
Akbuilder.com
Khybercustoms.com
Rtgparts.com (better for hk stuff but they have some rare odds and ends)
Ak resources
Akfiles.com
As for super custom parts like trunnions and barrels you can have an order go to a reputable custom barrel maker and they will lathe it to your specs. Trunnions will have to be modified or machined out of suitable materials by yourself
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0d6346 No.688575
>>688566
My bolt catch doesn't catch very well either. Of course, the first problem was that it was a side charger, and the place where the carrier was drilled didn't agree with the cut-out for the handle, so it was trying to catch on the carrier because the bolt never went back that far. But even after switching to a correctly shaped upper, the bolt catch can be overcome by a good slap. Although, with an empty magazine, that's a lot less true.
Having not fixed it, all I can say is you're not alone in this problem, and good luck.
>>688567
>>688568
Thanks, that helps. It sounds like my first step is to get a routine parts kit, and stare at those parts to understand what they're doing, so I know what could be changed, and what couldn't. And having a cute underfolder as a result isn't a bad thing either.
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92d123 No.688581
>>688575
Appreciate it. I just dont get it man. All the parts are supposedly mil-spec. I know that isn't 100% true; coatings aren't identical and other little changes are made. But the dimensions should be the same. I even measured the critical ones and compared them to dimensional drawings of the ar-15 and they seem close enough. I'm considering ordering another mil spec catch from another brand and trying that. If that fails, I might take it to an armorer or grind down the catch so it has more travel, but I really want to solve the problem, not the symptom.
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c30334 No.688584
>>688581
the bolt catches on MILSPEC AR type rifles are generally not very stable, that is why most people rarely carry a round in the chamber, and only fools carry a mag in with bolt to the rear. There were also several variations of "milspec" catches throughout the years, the most recent having a larger cross section to prevent inadvertent release IIRC. post pics and we might be able to help.
Even though it might seem stupid, what kind of buffer do you have in there right now? Some parts kits are sold with 9mm buffers, and there is a difference between the springs and buffers for SBR ARs and long barreled "rifle" ARs.
It is possible that there is just enough room where the bolt catch does not seat right because the pocket for it was over-milled/ not cut out enough. pictures could explain it better.
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27071a No.688587
>>688575
Cute underfolders are totally worth it. This was my second build.
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cec0f9 No.688588
>>688584
I bought the Aero Precision AR15 Carbine Buffer Kit and their Standard AR15 Lower Parts Kit. The bolt clears the back of the bolt catch by about .25" so I know the buffer isn't forcing a short stroke.
Do you know anyone who sells the most recent type of catch?
Pic related is not mine, but mine is doing exactly the same thing. It barely catches the bottom two lugs, if it catches the bolt at all. I used a caliper to measure from the upper surface of the lower to tip of the catch when raised by my finger and got about .35". From what I've heard that's the bare minimum, and you can get up to .4", so I want to try a new bolt catch. My barrel gets here tomorrow so I'll be able to make sure nothing really wierd is happening with the bolt height.
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7c5ca5 No.688592
>>688588
Those bolt lugs look rough. If yours look like they are cracked/scraped, you will need a new bolt too (be sure to headspace it). Based on that picture, it looks like there might be a problem with the way the bolt catch is on the lower. If you did this from an 80, you might need to clean out the pocket for the catch.
If you have pictures of the outside of the bolt catch, that might be a place to start. sometimes there are issues with installing the catch that can cause it to do exactly what is happening in the picture
Are you using a special type of bolt catch ("enhanced," "ambi" or "extended")? If you have a MILSPEC one lying around see if that fits in the lower. You can buy pretty much any type that looks like pic related. Make sure it has the long front slope, and make sure the receiver is not the problem.
You can use a small punch or something else to make sure it moves the right way before installing the pin (removing the pin is not recommended unless you have another one lying around because you will probably damage it or it will become too loose, some parts kits come with 2 just in case). If the finger paddle or the bottom long part is deformed/ too big, you can also have problems where it will not go in all the way and the internal catch surface will not rise up enough.
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ac6563 No.688599
>>688592
I'm using all new parts, my bolt is fine. I already cleaned out the slot. Bolt catch is mil-spec, straight out of an Aero lower parts kit, pic related is mine. I've disassembled and reassembled it multiple times trying to fix it. I've tried using a punch instead of a pin, same problem. And empty mag raises the catch up as high as possible; pushing on the nub below the finger paddle doesn't move it any more.
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bde3a1 No.688629
I see 80% Glocks, AR15s, AKs, 1911s, and P320s. Why aren't there more 80% versions of guns? Is it a patent problem? Getting lower parts from the manufacturer? Manufacturers not endorsing it? Too complex for the average person? It would be nice to see 80% revolvers and shotguns. There's one 80% shotgun and it's ridiculously expensive. The lower alone costs as much as a new shotgun from a store.
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0d6346 No.688643
>>688629
A lot of it is the ATF. What does 79% look like? 81%? The ATF have turned down quite a few ideas because they're not like the other ideas they've ok'd.
Some of it is parts availability. I'd love to make PSL, but there just aren't any whole parts kits out there, and almost nobody makes suitable parts such that, as with the AR, you could buy a part a month, each from a separate vendor, until you have everything but the receiver.
And lets not underestimate the fact that most people are lazy and/or stingy. Many firearms could be constructed from 50% kits, but who has both the tools to finish them, and the engineering gumption to carefully do so correctly?
Lastly revolvers look dumb, so I'm not with you there. But something that isn't encumbered because it's not something else? How about a bull-pup AR-ish pistol? Or a belt fed krinkov? That'd be nifty. But no, no one will help me build something that isn't incredibly popular, so Joe Public is a poopyhead. So there.
(I agree though – more variety is appropriate. But Tactical Machining makes a 10/22 clone, and of course there's the AR10/LR208, not just the -15 blanks.)
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741b29 No.688657
>>688599
just to confirm, because the part looks correct and not in any way damaged or deformed pic related is the case, so I would check to see what is going on. I have in some very rare cases seen bent/broken catches from the factory, but this sounds like something else.
Also when you pull the bolt to the rear you are
>depressing the nub
>charging the rifle
not
<charging the rifle then
<depressing the nub to hold it
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4de277 No.688658
>>688657
I get a partial hold or no hold at all with both the magazine and manually pressing the nub.
When trying to manually lock the bolt, I am pulling the charging handle all the way back and holding it, then pushing and holding the nub, then gently moving the handle back until it catches, and then letting go.
I have never seen the catch do any better than snag the very tips of the bottom two lugs in any situation except for when I used a punch that was smaller than the roll pin in place of the roll pin. When I did that, the catch didn't come up as high as I've seen it in pictures of working ARs, but it was probably high enough to do the job. The only thing that tells me is that the upper receiver probably isn't interfering with the catch. I doubted that was the issue but I've heard of one case.
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8a0956 No.688665
>>688658
Try just holding the bolt catch then charging the rifle with the nub down, that might help. Also does it rise correctly with the upper removed and a magazine inserted?
It does not actually need to snag too much, as long as it consistently holds. I am assuming you built this from an 80% lower? Sometimes those have design flaws, and I would investigate if the outside of the receiver is filed down/open enough to allow the catch to move all the way (pivot into side - up onto bolt).
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7da869 No.688696
>>688665
It seemed to move the same with and without the upper on. I tried holding the catch up by the nub while closing the upper on top of it and if the catch was pushed down, it wasn't enough to be noticable.
I'm not sure what holding it up while charging would do. Wouldn't the back of the bolt run into it?
It is an 80% reciever. I actually just got a new buffer retainer and tried to install it because I did something stupid and broke the first one. It didn't fit, not even close. I tried the retainer from an oops kit I bought, same thing. I tried the original and found the fit was so close that the retainer trapped some air under it, and it acted like an air spring even without the regular spring under it. I had to sand it down, removing the coating completely, to get the new one to fit. At this point, I'm fairly sure the lower is out of tolerance in multiple areas.
I got a new catch with the other parts I ordered and it actually works. It doesn't sit as high as the catch in some pictures I've seen but it functions correctly. I'm going to stick with this. I'll let the company know what happened, and I plan on trying 80%s from 5D Tactical next, although if anyone has recommendations I'd love to hear them. At least I finally have a 100% functional rifle.
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b01489 No.688707
>>688696
>I'm not sure what holding it up while charging would do. Wouldn't the back of the bolt run into it?
because of the slanty edge on the front of the catch, the bolt rides over it, then locks on the forward motion. as long as you have 100% retention on bolt return, rifle is fine.
Almost every part of an AR should be able to be installed with bear hands, the only parts that need torque wrenches/special tools are the nut that holds the barrel on, and the buffer tube. Carbine style buffers are a little harder to install because of the plate that nees to be set before a nut can be placed to tighten it down. The only punches you need are the punches for installing pins, everything else just takes patients and good dexterity.
Out of curiosity, what kind of 80% brand were you using so other anons can try to avoid it?
IIRC I used an Anderson arms bare aluminum for my first build, but I accidentally the hole wrong (made it too big), and the first time I shot the rifle, my trigger pin actually popped out of my gun at the range. I just picked it up and put it back in, but I will make sure the next 80% I do I actually try to drill the holes straight through. The first time the left and right sides were not aligned, so I just made the hole bigger to make the pin level with the trigger, that was a mistake, but I had very little machining experience at the time.
Also do not use spray can high temp paint, because it melts off when it comes in contact with CLP. On the other hand, I have a receiver that looks like it saw actual combat ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
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ac6563 No.688775
>>688707
The lower was from Noreen, but I want to contact them first before making any judgements.
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ab9ffd No.688816
Made a polymer80 glock 19 with an RMR, oem parts, brownell frame and slide. I need to redo half of the trigger pin hole because it’s a little wider than it should be (jb weld). Shoots fine though.
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233a77 No.688827
Has anyone had success with Norcal's P365 kits?
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9da0ab No.688864
At Shot Show PSA announced a 299 dollar Glock clone (350 for suppressor height sights+threaded barrel+optics cut). In an interview with AKOU they confirmed they'll be offering build kits for Polymer 80s. In an interview with Hank Strange they confirmed the "lower assembly" (might be including lower parts, unclear) alone will sell for 99. Also mentioned in another interview (forget where) this would be launching in ~60 days.
What color should I do? I wanted to do Robin's Egg Blue+stainless when parts became cheaper, but that color of Polymer80 has been discontinued.
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8395df No.689644
>>684856
are there any places to get aluminum frames for a glock? All the places I see only sell polymer frames
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0d6346 No.689660
>>689644
>aluminum frames for a glock
Glock frames ARE polymer. No one "makes" an aluminum glockalike.
Did you, perhaps mean the P320, or venerable 1911? Because those frames exist as 80% projects, and are (and have always been) metal, with aluminum being a possible choice in 1911 at least.
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ed3799 No.689707
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9569da No.689709
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a5e573 No.689710
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e92e61 No.689753
i just decided to start an g19 that looks like the pistol from halo. i was putting off 3D printing a glock but i saw that and it seem unique and cool enough for me to give it a shot. after that is done im definitely going to start the FGC9
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68b8b7 No.689760
Side cutters, file, dremel, vice and a drill. Do people even follow the official instructions anymore where you mill off the top of the frame parts?
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0d6346 No.689858
Now that I've assembled all the parts (I thought) it turns out that the barrel I bought online was … you know, TECHNICALLY a conversion barrel for the glock 35.
Sitting in the g-17 slide, I had to mill a bit of metal out but now it sits pretty in the slide. And catches pretty hard on the locking block, preventing me from racking the slide. This means even if it fired (seems to sit in battery but I don't have the lower parts in yet) it wouldn't cycle even slightly.
Thoughts? Anybody have both a 35 & 31( or 17) barrel to compare lugs?
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6d3eaa No.689875
How does one forge a shovel head to be an AK reciever?
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0d6346 No.689880
>>689875
with a car-oil fired forge, a large sledge hammer, and a too-conveniently sized anvil.
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303f91 No.689892
What are the most recommended places to order parts for my 1st build? Also, what would be a good choice for my 1st build?
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817943 No.689923
>>689892
A hardware store, and a break barrel shotgun. Need a welder though, pipe shotguns are fine also.
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89aa72 No.689934
>>689858
getting closer?
I've made attempts to put the lower parts kit into the frame. Know what I had trouble with? The locking block.
Actually that's not true – The big trigger hole was directed by the jig, and the hole and the locking block don't line up. Or didn't. Since I could get an undersized steel punch through, I squeezed the drill bit back through, and both polished the inside of the 'block, and removed more plastic. Pin fits, all seems to be well. Probably.
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0d6346 No.689937
>>689934
GRRR
I ordered a spring. It says it's for the 17, 17lbs. It … sits in the slide. I'm mostly assuming that's because they somehow shipped me an RSA for the glock 19?
If GET this running, I'll probably build a glock-32 also. But if I don't … I'm going to give up on Poly 80 and the whole glock franchise.
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1470b2 No.690129
>>684997
Just buy it off Amazon.
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