No.3970
>retro game repair thread?
let's start a thread about pre-2005 electronic repair. post your problem and how you fixed it.
ex: my NES won't play games, so i cleaned the pins and that shit fired right up!
stuff like that please.
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No.3976
>>3970
Replacing the pin connector on a NES is dead simple and makes old games cleaned properly play like they are brand new. :^)
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No.3979
>>3970
A new 72 pin connector can be purchased online and easily replaced in the toaster NES. I replaced mine 10 years ago.
PROBLEM:
Original XBox system disc tray gets stuck and when I play games the tray opens and system resets.
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No.3980
>>3979
Try replacing the belt. As for opening while playing a game.. that's a bit odd. I'd try replacing the belt first, though. An orthodontic rubber band will do the trick.
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No.3986
>>3979
>>3980
I have almost the same problem. Mine refuses to open like 95 times out of 100, but if I well manage to get it open (with considerable amounts of nudging) and shove a CD int there it will open readily on press of the eject button. I just have to be careful to never remove the disk… (which I did recently, stupidly enough).
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No.3987
I seem to recall some model of the Xbox drive being able to be replaced with some off-the-shelf drive. Alas, my Xbox rests in the basement, as I have no desire to play anything on it. Fucking shitty controllers, even third party controllers are ass.
Anywho, be advised that if you replace an NES's connector, you may have a difficult time with inserting an Everdrive. Their boards are thicker than regular NES cards, made so that if your pins were fucked, you could play without replacing the connector or bending the pins back.
I've been sitting on a replacement Goldstar 3DO laser assembly for years now, and I have no drive to replace it, even though I don't think it requires me to use my soldering iron. Eh, severe depression robs you of all motivation.
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No.3991
>>3986
Yeah, that's a belt issue for sure. They degrade over time, essentially the loss in elasticity causes there to not be enough force for the spindle to disengage from the magnetic latch at the top of the drive. You can try boiling them (I've had no success with that method, though some swear by it) or the earlier recommended orthodontic rubber band.
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No.3998
>>3970
When I was a kid my first repair was to a NES front loader. I had two consoles and the controller ports broke on the one I had been playing.
I grabbed an old one that didn't work and took it apart. Noticed the controller ports had a wire going to them from the mainboard. I swapped the mainboard from my working NES into the case with working controller ports. Fired it up and it worked right off, still play it.
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No.4002
I have a copy of kirby's adventure that refuses to work. The pins have been cleaned and the 72 pin connector fixed, but it still gives me the blinking light. Oddly it works on my friends top loader without a problem.
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No.4011
>>3970
Cleaning the pins is easy, but you can always bend them (slightly!) to make up for the thirty years of wear and tear caused by jamming cartridges in there.
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No.4025
>>4002
Snip the leg of the 10NES chip in the NES, perhap? That only fixes constantly resetting CPU issues, not SOLID SCREEN flashing.
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No.5475
Hey guys. I picked up a used Jungle Green N64 a while back, and I've never been able to get it to work. Recently I've felt inclined to try and get it up and running again. It powers on, and the "VIDEO 1" signal goes away as the screen flickers once, telling me it's sending some sort of signal, but I get no video or audio.
I've vigorously cleaned the contacts in all my game cartridges and the expansion pak with q-tips and isopropyl alcohol. I've done the trick where you clean the cartridge reader with a credit card wrapped in an isopropyl alcohol-dipped paper towel. I've tried 4 different S-Video cables, and a few composite too just for good measure. All of those cables work on my SNES and GameCube. I'm testing it on a KV24-FV300 Trinitron, a beautiful SD CRT. Yes, everything else works fine in all of its inputs. I've even tried plugging it into my Bravia, knowing full well how awful that would look if it did work, but still no luck. I know the N64's relatively simple under the hood, so I'm curious as to whether you guys might have any ideas! Also, it's an American model and I've tried two OEM power supplies. I've tried slowly turning the power switch on. I've tried turning it on, and then inserting the power supply. And no, the reset button isn't stuck. These are just solutions I've found online. Nothing has worked thus far.
I've even tried turning the damn thing upside down to keep pressure on the cartridge. I've also tried using a regular jumper pak instead of the expansion pak. I'm out of ideas. I only mentioned it was a Jungle Green model because I know the Funtastic series have a slightly different video output, so I figured maybe there was a problem specific to those models. Any help is greatly appreciated. I just want to play some old games, man.
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No.5483
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No.5735
To explain (months later), the reason why something has to be inserted into the N64's front compartment is because the system uses Rambus DRAM, which requires a terminator to be in any RAM slot that does not have expansion memory in it. The "jumper pak" is the terminator for the N64. It even says it in katakana on the casing. A missing or fucked up pak in this slot will cause the N64 to do pretty much nothing.
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No.5783
I've started noticing more and more that people know fucking nothing about game consoles, especially when it comes to troubleshooting or repairing them. For instance, my PS3, a third-hand system previously no doubt owned by street apes, as one of the USB ports had been TORN OUT of it, is now failing to reliably eject discs. I can open up the system and pull the game out, as it ejects a few millimeters from the drive. I can pinch the disc and remove it. Yes, I could replace the drive, but Sony in their infinite stupidity locks drives and systems together, so I would have to hack the system to use a different BluRay drive.
Searching for fixes online is worse than fruitless, as people don't know about the locking, and have no information on the ejection mechanism in the drive. Don't know if a belt would need to be replaced, or if liberal amounts of white lithium grease would fix it, and I REALLY don't want to disassemble the drive without knowing what I should be doing in advance. Fun.
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No.5784
>>5783
I know for the 360 you can buy a new drive and swap the logic board to make it work. The same might go for the PS3
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No.5787
>>5784
That solution is "remove the case from the system, insert another system inside of your existing case". I've just left most of the screws out of the system, and I'll slide the cover and top off to remove games until which time I happen across another PS3.
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No.5788
>>5787
I meant the logic board on the disk drive itself.
Here's a guide:
https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/PlayStation+3+Blu-ray+Disc+Drive+Replacement/3484
It's much easier then a 360 because no soldering is required
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No.5789
>>5788
Thanks for clearing that up. The next time the system pisses me off and I'm not running on pocket change, I'll replace it.
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No.5904
I have a super nintendo that does pic related
cartridges are clean, I don't think its the game's faults, because it happen on too many of my games
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No.5925
>>5904
>>5904
Board probably needs the capacitors replaced, or the PPU is dying.
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No.6058
YouTube embed. Click thumbnail to play.
Here's a video on fixing NES pin connectors. I had an old NES in storage that I thought was broken, and after straightening the pins out it works as well as it did when I got it.
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