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don't be a faggot

File: 3d4c30a329c4e5f⋯.jpg (45.77 KB,664x498,4:3,Interior.jpg)

File: 946747cf11ae4fe⋯.jpg (51.95 KB,664x498,4:3,Should I buy.jpg)

File: b54d959416ce84a⋯.jpg (53.45 KB,664x498,4:3,Side View 1.jpg)

File: c8707369345cb16⋯.jpg (41.75 KB,664x498,4:3,Side View 2.jpg)

File: aacd6c29d484b8c⋯.jpg (67.16 KB,664x498,4:3,4A-GE Engine Bay 2.jpg)

1f9e9b No.13258

Newfag here, I need help picking a good first vehicle. So far I have found this car. Any advice for a first time car buyer? The price is $4,600.

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1da656 No.13259

Looks good, but not 5 grand good, Negotiate with the owner.

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6751bd No.13260

>>13258

NADA says the high retail for an AE86 is $3k, but that is modified by scarcity and the condition of the car. How many miles are on it? Does the owner have service records or receipts for parts?

That exterior looks like shit but it could just need a good wash. Interior looks okay from the little I can see. Engine bay looks okay.

Definitely go look at it in person and inspect it thoroughly. Check for rust (especially if they salt the roads in the winter in that area), and leaks of any kind in any place in the car. Look underneath the car, jack it up if you can. Test the climate control and pay close attention for any abnormal smells. Have a mechanic inspect it if that makes you feel more comfortable. I did and it cost about $100.

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1f9e9b No.13279

File: 8331aa148c461fc⋯.jpg (39.11 KB,664x498,4:3,Back View.jpg)

File: dc96ef956aa824b⋯.jpg (67.22 KB,664x498,4:3,4A-GE Engine Bay.jpg)

OP Here

>>13260

It has 140,000 or that's what's listed

Here's a list of what he said he's done.

-celica supra rims

-basically new T3 coil overs (less than 500 miles)

-Jblood Style Front bumper from shine auto

-Buddy club exhaust

The dude said it doesn't rev over 4k however.

He says the reason might be injector, fuel pump, or a needs timing.

He says price is firm "Because I couldn't let it go for any less than what I have already paid and put into it. Lots of cool stuff on it."

He doesn't have the service records or part receipts.

What do?

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4679d3 No.13283

>>13279

>140k miles

Curiously low but okay.

>mods

poz but okay

>doesn't rev over 4k

>no service records or receipts

>firm on price

If I were in your position, looking at any car other than an AE86, I'd not waste any more time with it. Since it is a rare car here, it could be worth pursuing further if there aren't any other decent AE86's around. $4600 is high for anything in that condition, so unless you really, really want an AE86 and can't find any others I'd leave it there.

It sounds like the car may be in limp mode. I found this forum post:

>Nafey, i have a list of things that could be the problem, isnt 4AGE limp mode a bitch? Anywho, my ideas, from around the web (and unfortunate previous experience) ALL of which have the EXACT same problems as yours:

>-Wiring. Any dodgy connections?

>-Dodgy fuel system. In that i mean, clogged lines or filter, clogged injectors, or if yours is aussie spec … fuel lines too restrictive? Checking fuel pressure shouldn't be too difficult…

>

-02 Sensor farked or missing. To the point where the ECU thinks its running mega lean and goes into limp mode

>Both of the above and "generalisations" in regards to similar car, the few i'd be DEFINITELY checking (and have happened to me or friends) are:

>-Dizzy wired up wrong, should be

>Blue wire to Black wire

>Red wire to White wire

>Whire wire to Red Wire

>-Incorrect ignitor, or faulty. The latter happened to me, exact same problem.

>-Dizzy out by one tooth. Exact same problem.

>I expect much loving if any of the above are correct. Go for gold champ.

>Seamus :)

>Edit: And to add, i don't think its a vaccum line problem. You mentioned hissing, could it be crappy injector o-rings/fuel rail not bolted down correctly? I'm saying this, because most people have that crappy flu thing going around, might not be able to smell that it's fuel ;)

http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/forums/archive/index.php/t-45162.html?s=95df4b3bd1492da8ba1e0a04e900e58d

It could be any number of issues and unless you are mechanically inclined and knowledgeable it could be very difficult to fix and take a long time regardless of your skill. I would seriously consider leaving it. Again, the price is high to begin with imo. Stock they are worth $3-$4k, in good condition (this one appears okay but not good). If he seriously put as much as $1600 into it in coilovers and exhaust then he's an idiot anyway imo. I don't like doing business with idiots unless I absolutely have to.

But I'm just one guy. If you really want an AE86, there aren't any others around, have the money to pay the high price, and have the time and/or money to fix whatever is wrong with it, go ahead and do it. You might ask if he still has the stock springs, coilovers are usually shit on the road.

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8111a8 No.13284

File: a3c361e4c5c6b21⋯.jpg (2.84 MB,3842x2920,1921:1460,1489523754233.jpg)

File: ea20f6ade44bfb0⋯.jpg (797.86 KB,1419x1506,473:502,1489523955794.jpg)

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720e4f No.13288

File: 5a43943bcd00680⋯.png (117.74 KB,580x363,580:363,1326145457322.png)

>>13279

>The dude said it doesn't rev over 4k however.

It's at this point you should turn 360° and walk away.

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d2839e No.13289

>>13279

>The dude said it doesn't rev over 4k however.

You could be looking at all kinds of problems, and this is no car that has limp mode.

>4000 dollars firm because the guy invested 4000 dollars into the car

That's retarded. I invest about 1600 dollars a year into my car as fuel and maintenance. doesn't raise the price^.

>firm price on a car that has engine problems

You can't see into the engine, you don't know what's wrong with it. It could be an injector, but it could also be bearing damage or something.

Walk out on that shit and get yourself a Miata or something.

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1f9e9b No.13290

>>13283

Thank you, I am probably not going to go with the car, seeing as how it's a bit over priced for a car that doesn't rev past 4k. Also it's vin says that it's an ae88.

>>13284

Saved em, thanks man.

>>13289

I might, but currently I've been think about getting a 240sx or some other cars like it.

Thank you guys, I shall return with other vehicles.

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1f9e9b No.13291

Also side note, what would be a good first car? One that isn't FWD of course.

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351f3a No.13294

File: f9716e3a20b8bf4⋯.jpg (163.06 KB,960x720,4:3,.jpg)

File: 36f1f170ec2c4d9⋯.jpg (236.33 KB,1024x768,4:3,90mariner.jpg)

File: d24ae0375bd6862⋯.jpg (121.5 KB,800x533,800:533,AW11-MR2-4.jpg)

>>13290

>>13290

The win will never say it's a AE86, fam. The AE86 never truly came to the states

>>13291

>miata

>foxbody

>MR2 AW11 or AD22

>WRX or a EVO if you're into that kind of thing and want AWD

Hell a forester or an outback is a nice pick too. I think they came in manual too. Thats if you want AWD with no diff. I know the EVO can go RWD, but I don't think the WRX can. I've never been in one.

It also matters how much you know about cars. I don't know how much of a bitch the MR2 is to work on, but I know Miatas are easy and if kids in high school auto classes can figure out a foxbody I'm sure you can

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7d3b35 No.13296

>>13284

>>13290

That chart is wrong in many places, don't follow it. Maybe I should start an initiative to make a new one.

>>13291

>>13294

>miata

>fox body

Good choices. Miatas (and older Mazdas in general) can be fixed with swear words. Fox body was produced in basically the same mechanical form from 1979 to 2004 with minor changes, so parts are cheap as fuck and easy to find. Plenty of Ford performance and aftermarket parts as well. Being an American longitudinal V8, it's pretty easy to work on as well.

>MR2

Bad choice. Mid mounted engines are hard to work on. and afaik the 1st and 2nd gen MR2's weren't exactly reliable compared to say, a Corolla. The ZZW30 (3rd gen) is a different story, however. Also more expensive though. Also

>AD22

what?

>wrx vs evo

There is no Mitsubishi equivalent to the wrx. There were Ralliart Lancers, but they weren't turbo. Evo is STI fighter, and they are expensive, finicky and unreliable. IIRC all evos have front biased AWD, and Subarus are balanced. Older Subarus are plagued with head gasket problems by design so I avoid them. Boxers are also kind of a bitch to work on, especially when it comes to spark plugs. I would not recommend either for a first car, and neither would behave like RWD.

Other options… Silvia (240sx) like you already mentioned. I can't think of any others. Not many decent RWDs I know of that are first car material.

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6f20de No.13318

>>13296

>1979 to 2004

While technically true, as the platform remained the same for over a quarter of a century, when most people say foxbody they're referring to the Mustang produced up until the 1993 model year.

The later ones in particular can be had for very cheap as ex-CHP units with more horses under the hood than a usual Mustang of the period. After that point as the quality goes up, so does the maintenance.

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7d3b35 No.13325

>>13318

I am aware. What I didn't realize was that the SN-95 is actually significantly different from the fox body. I just thought it was a facelift. My bad.

Fox body aftermarket is potentially larger, but SN-95's are everywhere as well. They are probably about the same.

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351f3a No.13353

>>13296

Is there a downside to getting a Foxbody convertible? Or any you can think of. I'm sure they leak, but if I'm okay with that risk on a miata than what would it matter if it was another car. Thr thing with foxbodies is finding one that the owner hasn't fucked with.

>>13325

SN-95 are too common for my taste. Not that a popular car is bad. The kid next door has one. I went to high school with someone that had one. I see at least 6 of them when I go out ( along with the ones that came after it) but most of them are the V6 and fuck me if I'm getting a auto v6 mustang. I ight as well buy a jetta and call myself a faggot at that point.

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7d3b35 No.13368

>>13353

>convertible

Instinct tells me that an American soft top would leak more than a Japanese one. I wouldn't buy a convertible for a daily anyway if I lived somewhere with inclement weather.

>SN-95 is too common

I agree and wouldn't buy one myself. Only mentioned because of the larger aftermarket.

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351f3a No.13459

I'm trying to think of something other than the miata that I would want.I worry about those pop-up lights dying in the winter. It might be a jap car, but old cars do old car things. If I got an NB that wouldn't be a worry, but I like NAs more. I really like the Sube 2.5rs. I like the AE86/GT-S, but the odds of finding one at a fair price are low. I keep going with jap cars, if I buy old I don't want to deal with another American 90s car and the only Euro car I'd get is a BMW E30 or something. I don't like VWs

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7d3b35 No.13463

>>13459

Just weld the hinges in the upright position if you're worried about the motors failing. You don't have to weld very much and I would think it should be easy to grind off later.

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7d3b35 No.13474

>>13459

You might be ableweld the lights in the upright position. Wouldn't have to do a lot so it would likely be easy to grind off later if necessary. I think there may also be some kind of built in latch of some kind that stick them up. That would be preferable over welding, for sure.

All Germans are pretty fussy, but I think E30's are a little less so. I would avoid any other 80s Germans unless you are inclined to dealing with them.

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351f3a No.13475

>>13463

>weld the lights

Half the point of getting a car with pop up lights is making them pop.

>>13474

I would avoid any other 80s Germans unless you are inclined to dealing with them.

I wouldn't buy a German car. I was just saying if was the E30 would be the one I buy. I much rather get a jap car or a foxbody.

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7d3b35 No.13476

>>13475

True, but I was thinking it would be more of a temporary thing (just do a couple small welds on each side and grind off later). Also I mentioned a less permanent solution that may be present from the factory. Though, if you are going to get a shitbox one then I think welded headlights add character.

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351f3a No.13497

>>13476

That would be funny. My friend found a "AE86" the other day for under 4k. It looks pretty good, but I can tell the guy did work to it. It had a Rev counter odometer and shit. Even if the car was fine I hate taking on other peoples projects. I also just started a new job, so I don't really have the cash to spend just yet.

While this guy was fine I also refuse to buy a car from anyone in the NY burrows since more than half the time they're selling you broken shit or ripping you off. I just can't trust them. Even if the car looks great and its a "fair" deal. I've overlooked a few cars from that hellhole of a city. I've been lurking 3-4 states and all of them want 5-10k for their mx5s. Fuck.

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497c46 No.15395

>>13296

>That chart is wrong in many places, don't follow it. Maybe I should start an initiative to make a new one.

Being well aware that this thread & post is bordering on being a year old, was any progress made? I'd kill for a first-time buyer/owner guide, given I know nobody who is even remotely into cars.

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dd63de No.15401

>>15395

That would be one hell of a list. And heavily dependent on where you live. For example, i would not reccomend buying budget jap in Euroland. While budget jap would be the go-to thing in United Burger States.

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85670d No.15402

>>15401

You'd probably just start small, there's no need to aim for a chart as huge as the old one from half/o/. If you hold back from going enthusiast-level of detail, it could probably be shrunk down with ease.

>For example, i would not reccomend buying budget jap in Euroland. While budget jap would be the go-to thing in United Burger States.

Noted. I have no idea why this is the case though, but it's noted.

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f9e7e0 No.15438

File: e44e18dd1ca7fb0⋯.jpg (26.83 KB,500x362,250:181,1463265290080.jpg)

>mfw I wanted to give actual advice

>mfw I realize this thread is from 2017

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ba1a46 No.15447

>>15438

gotta love slow boards anon

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497c46 No.15458

>>15438

why wouldn't you just post it anyway?

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