No.11184
So my dishwasher is broken beyond repair. It was pretty finiky (yet this was completely unrelated to why it broke) so I was preparing to replace it anyways.
What do I want in a dishwasher /ck/?
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No.11185
>>11184
I haven't had a dishwasher for 3 years now. It's honestly made me be better about washing as I cook and not using utensils and dishes I don't actually need.
To actually help you in your search look for one that has an easy to access food catch so you're not blasting your plates with lil bits of old food
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No.11189
>>11184
>What do I want in a dishwasher /ck/?
Dirty dishes.
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No.11196
>this is my chance
1900-series Asko or get the fuck out. Hook 'em up to a hot water supply and boom, 45 minute wash cycles!
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No.11206
>>11196
No Hobart HXeH?
Like a 2 minute wash cycle.
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No.11208
>>11206
Maybe, unless you want to spend boatloads on a professional machine I would go with pic related, a Asko D1705.
My contact at Asko Netherlands has one, connected to hot water and modded with a drain valve from a Asko-based Wascator professional washer, it does a program in under 40 minutes because of it, it doesn't need to wait for it to drain, open up valve > empty within 10 seconds > rapid advance to next part of program.
Or a D1976 if you want more programs and options, I guess.
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No.11209
>>11208
Oh, and a fair warning though: DO NOT, EVER, PULL THE DOOR HANDLE WITH FORCE! They can't have much so always pull it gently!
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No.11447
>>11208
I still stand behind this.
Do the timer modification if you're getting a D1705 though.
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No.11525
>>11206
Would want an LXeR for domestic else you're going to be stuck feeding it 140 degree water.
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No.11528
>>11525
I don't think Anon has 220V in his home, let alone 380V.
Wish I had 380V in my garage though, my Askos would love it. Or my dad could buy a fuckhueg compressor or welder just for shits 'n giggles.
Alas, power current is expensive to install.
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No.11529
>>11528
The LXes are available as a 120/208-240/60/1 machine. Service manual says it takes a 40 amp service, so basically a dryer or air-conditioner hookup.
You'd want an eR for residential as they are designed to be run on cold water.
The real sticking point is how you're going to feed detergent into the thing, You don't just squirt cascade into them, they have peristaltic pump setup that you'd drop into a bucket of supertrump or whatever your local chemical co sells you as an automatic machine detergent.
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No.11530
>>11529
>110V/40A
Jesus fucking christ how fucked is America power wise?
You seem to really know appliances, that's pretty rare to see on *chans.
I repair Asko and Miele irl and have contacts at Asko Nederland if I need any info, which is fucking based if you're dealing with a 22-year old 20005, whose engine control board goes kaboom due to a faulty V-belt, or a 27 year old 7002 dryer that needed some love with new rollers like all of them. The BO tripcode is based on that :^)
Peristaltic? Reminds me of the Ecolab dosing pumps the fuckhueg Miele washer my mom has at her work, a daycare for severely handicapped children and/or teens.
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No.11531
>>11530
Stateside Hobart tech here, I know the secrets. Got mixers in service in my area with a date code of 1963 Those things will probably outlive me.
Its 120/208-240 Meaning that you have two live conductors 120v to Neutral and 208-240 between the two depending on the type of service you have.
The LXe's have up to four peristaltic pumps, detergent, rinse aid, delime feed, and sanitizer (if it's a cold machine). Not sure what you guys have over there, Hobart germany has weird machines. I've only experienced their stuff once, and that's a one-off FT1000i industrial machine used as a bread-rack washer in a plant. From what I am told its a derivative of the german FTn machines rather then the American FT1000s
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No.11532
>>11530
>Jesus fucking christ how fucked is America power wise?
Typical residential is all 120v/15a, plus the occasional 120v20a for a window air conditioner. electric laundry dryers are typically 240v/30a; electric cookers/ovens 240v/50a.
Once you get a three phase feed into a building, you can pretty much get whatever you want.
So pretty fucked.
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No.11537
>>11532
Over here in The Netherlands it's 230V/16A for general use, 3-phase 230V/16 or 22A for cooktops, and krachtstroom/Power Current, 380V/16A
All of my appliances run 220V/16A, my Asko TL used to be 220V/10A after a rebuild because I wrongly connected the heater, after I redid it it uses 3kw instead of 2kw.
Still looking for the illusive Asko 770 countertop dishwasher.. haven't seen one in months on either Blocket or Marktplaats. (Swedish and Dutch eBay, basically)
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No.11538
How did it break? You can save more money repairing it than replacing it. Call a handyman and ask if they do repairs.
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No.11553
>wash dishes by hand
>use dish washer as large drying rack
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No.11554
>>11538
Not necessarily.
Really depends on what is broken.
If it is a minor thing, yeah. $25 in parts and an hour in labor, sure. Fix it.
If it has been 15 years and a newer model would be more energy efficient and come with a warranty and the replacement part is unavailable or more than 1/3rd the cost of a new machine, you're not really saving to fix.
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