>How to build a decent desktop?
non-exhaustive list.
>CPU
<for current games, you can get away with a lower-end (currently i3 9300, Ryzen 2200G) CPU, but a middle-end CPU (currently i5 9500~9600, Ryzen 2600~2700) will last the longest (people are still happily using i5 3570 today)
<for newer gen emulators, you may want a higher-end CPU because of their better single-thread performance (currently around i7 9700~9700k, Ryzen 7 2700~2700x). consider overclocking
<threadripper and i9 are wastes of money (too expensive for marginal improvements, vidya is GPU-bound today)
>GPU
<spend good money on GPU, it's the most important
<check whether there's a new gen around the corner and whether current gen is shitty rebrands or has actual improvements. today's current gen (GTX 2000 series, Radeon 500 series Vega 6/64) SUCKS (overpriced and/or few improvements)
<research INVIDIVUAL CARDS from an OEM, not just the model. several cards have been duds (see EVGA GTX 1070 FTW and EVGA GTX 1080 FTW catching fire, GeForce RTX 2080/2080Ti cards from several manufacturers malfunctioning, and GTX 970 cards having 3.5GB actual VRAM)
<compare reference (vanilla specs, blower fan) vs custom models (little more expensive, normal fans, generally better cooling, higher clocks)
<for old non-demanding games, avoid current low-end GPUs unless you need a strong CPU without iGPU anyway
<mid-high-end is the price/value sweetspot (GeForce GTX 1060~GTX 1070 equivalent of a gen)
<crossfire/SLI is garbage (poor compatibility, micro-stutters, etc.), don't fall for the meme. get a high-end GPU instead
<AAA garbage in ultra devours VRAM (currently 8GB~10GB VRAM peak use for the ultra textures meme)
<if you're considering high-end GPUs for the 4k meme be aware they can't do AAA garbage in ultra at 4k 60fps. 1440p@60Hz is fine though
>PSU
<a shitty PSU can kill individual parts or your entire system, and even cause a housefire. do NOT get cheap chink shit. however, do not overspend either. muh 80-plus titanium 1000W w/10-year-warranty won't make your PC faster
<brand name is just a sticker. the OEM (actual manufacturer) and the 'platform' (model) are good clues however, as good OEMs don't tend to put out shitty PSUs
<brand is NOT everything. even reputable brands offer shitty PSUs
<crappy chink PSUs may lie about specs (listing peak power instead of continuous power, if not outright made-up numbers)
<read reviews that show relevant stuff (stability at different load levels, voltage staying within spec, component quality, fan bearing (avoid sleeve), noise levels, etc.). reminder review models and shills are a thing though
<calculate your system's power use and leave a small margin. PSUs lose a bit of capacity as they age
<make sure it has all cables you need (e.g. pci-e). cable length is also important; you can't use a PSU with short cables
>mobo
<too many specs to list. SOME relevant specs: SOCKET (cpus supported), CHIPSET (pci-e lanes, supported memory clocks), form factor, audio codec (try to get a non-shit one), ports, expansion slots
<make sure it suits your needs (HDD ports, slots, I/O ports, headers, etc.)
<shitty mobos have shitty components (shitty VRMs, shitty capacitors, shitty MOSFETs, worse heatsinks) which affects longevity and likely won't take well to overclocking (if you're into that). be wary of bottom of the barrel stuff
>RAM
<any will do. faster clock and lower latency rate yield marginal gains. as always, avoid the shittiest chink shit and overpriced RGB gaymer garbage
>HDD/SSD
<not an expert on HDDs. pricier hard drives tend to last longer, be a bit faster, and have longer warranties than entry-level ones
<not essential, but SSD are nice to have. pick appropriate port (pci-e, sata, m.2), and type (AHCI (used by SATA), NVMe (newer, faster))
<read up on NAND types.
<while SSDs take longer to wear out than HDDs, they may still die prematurely from the controller dying