No.328790 [Last50 Posts]
WIP / PAINTING THREAD
Previous thread bumplocked and can be found at >>269751
Show your WIPs and completed models. Display you craftmanship, techniques and artistry. Or just post your ugly models so we can laugh at you and eventually give you some advices.
I'll kick off the thread with my WIP of two darksouls and one mutant for my Mordheim's Possessed warband in the hopes of forcing myself to finally finish it
____________________________
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No.328800
>to finally finish it
actually** finish it, I'm tired
still have to sculpt the arm, but finished this dude's mask. It still need some polish so once it's halfway cured I'm going to work on the edges so that they look sharper.
Also, if someone could answer >>328570 it would be nice
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No.331565
Nearly finished some not!Primaris First Company Imperial Fists. I'm going to get some more, should I stick with the Mk.VIII armour or shave down the collars and include some earlier marks?
>>328790
>>328800
Amazing work, but aren't those GS horns a little fragile? I don't think you can revive GS, I'd just buy some off-brand stuff off eBay, it's much cheaper than GW.
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No.331599
I'm fairly new to painting. Here's some stuff I've painted for a D&D campaign and stuff I still need to do
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No.331966
>>331565
looking great, love the colour. Did you also paint that red n white squares shoulder-pad? It looks nice, must have been a nightmare to paint is there any secret as to how to paint a yellow spess mehreen? I once tried to paint a cheap, quick assembly marine with the Lamenters colour scheme and it was horrible
I like the collars, but since they are First Company most of their armour would be old.
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No.331998
I got the Getting Started With Warhammer 40k magazine for the miniature and I tried to make a beakie with it. This is very much work in progress. I have dealt with the mold lines and filled the gaps I caused by getting it off the sprue. I shaved and carved off some of the plastic on the legs to make the armour look a bit more MkVI, I still need to fill the gaps on them. I didn't drill the bolter barrel yet, that comes later.
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No.332001
>>331966
Cheques aren't too hard, just a little time-consuming, but I think the final result is worth it. For the yellow I used (roughly) this method, which I'd highly recommend:
http://www.mengelminiatures.com/2015/11/tutorial-heresy-era-imperial-fists.html
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No.332023
>>331599
It would help if you thinned your paints.
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No.332037
>>331998
Beakies make everything look better.
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No.333099
>spilled half a tall-pot of nuln oil
>all over my desk
>pants
>feet
>carpet
>everywhere except the parts that I was about to slather with the stuff
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No.333111
>>333099
>spill a three quarters pot of Agrax earthshade all over your pants, chair and floor.
>It was the last bottle so now you'll have to make do with whatever the new one is, that's not quite the same.
>hurry to wipe it off so you quickly put the brush into the water cup.
>stains all over
>once you're done you sit down to wash away the pain with your whisky, but now you realize you put the brush, still full of shade, into the cup of whisky instead of the water
>your halfpainted Meganob stares at you with a mocking glare
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No.333587
>>331565
>Not-Primaris
I'm doing the same thing. Grabbed the booklet with the single Primaris model a few weeks back and this was the result. Since it's just a test-model I didn't go whole hog on the conversion, just swapped in a backpack and helmet from some old Tacticals. On future models, I'll definitely be shaving down the collars and altering the knee-plates. I love how beefy he looks next to minis of regular humans.
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No.338022
Just came back from a long hiatus. One WIP and one completed model.
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No.338027
>>338022
The bone texture and color are really nicely done on the second model.
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No.338028
>>333111
Behold the pain of dub trips man.
>Check within his suffering and learn.
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No.338054
>>338028
At least I hope he was happy to find out ahead eartshade is not oop
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No.338055
What would be a good/easy way to paint a reticulated pattern on a shield or a lizardfolk's back?
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No.338066
>>338055
There is no easy way, and on the other hand, why you would do that? Aren't the scales already sculpted on the model?
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No.338898
>>338055
for any complex freehanding the answer is the same, make lines and fill the lines. There is unfortunately no easier way.
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No.339533
Wip done, unfortunately the lighting of these photos is shit
Also, how I make the "eye" bases with greenstuff.
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No.339691
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No.339719
>>339691
your edge highlights tend to be a little wide and don't taper. Drybrushing them on can fix this tendency
your metallics are in dire need of a wash, as are the straps holding the skulls
the whip is visually uninteresting. Energy is a bitch but you gotta do something with it
I like your cloak but it looks like your paints are too thick
C+ could be better
consider a nuln oil black wash on the metallics, a dark brown wash on everything that isn't armor (use water and paint instead of a GW premade wash (which are inks). It's more subtle), and a very dark purple or blue wash on the armor
also, when photographing figures, get other figures either out of the shot or at least visually separate them. That gun and pauldron confused me at first.
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No.339796
What do you guys think of iridescent mediums? Are they a good alternative to buying metalic paints?
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No.339797
>>339719
Yeah, the highlights are a bit hard to fix at this stage. I used drybrushing to build up the darker purple shades, shaded the model a dark purple and then applied a brighter purple edge highlight to get the model that way. I followed some of your advice though, I shaded the metallics a bit more and tidied up some of the detailing as best I could
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No.340150
Any advice/resources for someone looking to get into painting and assembling? Does it end being cheaper than buying minis or is it just a money pit(I've heard the paint can get pretty expensive)? Any help is welcome.
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No.340313
>>340150
What are you trying to ask anon? Most games which need you to paint the minis are wargames, so if you're going to play a wargame, then yes. Otherwise I don't really know
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No.340426
>>340313
It's mainly for D&D and the like.
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No.341566
>leave minis in vat of nail polish remover overnight and throughout the day
>scrub them at various intervals
>there's still little bits of paint/primer that just absolutely will not fucking come off
Would degreaser work better? I can pick up a bottle at work for fairly cheap.
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No.341574
>>341566
I've seen people use simple green for stripping paint. There's also super clean, which is a degreaser that comes in a purple bottle. You could also just dip them in straight acetone and scrub again.
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No.341802
>>341574
I think it might have been in the last thread, some anon said whatever stripping agent he was using was slightly corroding his metal minis. It wasn't simple green, was it? The thread got bumped off the catalog, I can't go back and check.
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No.342055
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No.342066
>>342055
Leaving anything in any kind of stripping agent for too long can cause damage. I thought I'd try using isopropyl alcohol to clean up some needle files that I'd gunked up with glue and plastic and god knows what else, and it caused some oxidation pretty quickly.
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No.342108
>>340150
If you just want the cheapest, Pathfinder's bestiary boxes have loads of cardboard figures that will do the job.
Material cost is something that feels like it never ends. You start off buying some clippers, a knife, poly cement, a paint set, some brushes, a pallet and you go. Then you find that the paint set was okay, but you'll really need more colours for the next project and some washes would definitely bring out the detail, so you've got to spend more to feel satisfied. Plus, base coating with a brush took forever, so you'll want some spray to do it quickly, and you also heard about the idea of basing in grey, then doing just the top in white to give the models a natural highlight, so you'll need two cans. For the third project you want some more fun, so you buy a couple of hundred magnets, a drill and super glue to make your weapons swappable. At some point you watch a video where someone is painting something so much better than you can do and he's using a variety of different brands, so you try out a few different things to see how they work. All along the while, you're learning things and picking up new materials and tools, paperclips, toothpicks, files, a mould line remover, grass and grit for bases…
Pre-painted models that come out of a Chinese factory are cheap. Making things yourself is a never-ending saga.
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No.342147
>>342108
>Making things yourself is a never-ending saga.
As someone who has steadily accumulated a collection of tools and materials and paints just from other artsy projects, I can confirm this cycle. Once you start, there's no easy way to stop.
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No.342276
>>342108
Don't forget the investment into airbrushes when you find out how much more convenient they are than spraycans.
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No.342283
>>342108
I feel like anyone that paints for long enough goes through this. On one hand its kind of embarrassing how much money I've wasted on supplies and materials, especially stuff I thought would work out but then ended up being totally not what I expected. But on the other hand I've become a much better painter and modelist over the years by doing it. Its a weird feeling, but I guess its mostly the sensation that I improved at something I love doing through hard work and trial and error, more than wasting money.
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No.342344
>>342283
I actually don't care. That's my hobby. There are people who spent $500 for a set of golf maces, there are people who spend a ridicolous amount of money just to jump from an airplane.
Hobbies are expensive.
I just dropped something like $25 for 2 qualities brushes. Do I regret it? no. A trip to the pub possibly cost me more and entertain me less.
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No.342764
Any tips or tricks for filling gaps that you don't think I'd hear anywhere else?
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No.342782
>>342764
Toss it boiling milk. If it works for ceramics it might work elsewhere.
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No.343628
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No.344543
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No.344552
>>344543
Nice work. Those color transitions are fantastic
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No.344553
>>344552
'cause they're airbrushed
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No.345066
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No.345068
>>345066
Photo looks a little blurry, but otherwise good job. Pretty spooky.
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No.349498
My almost finised 28mm partisans.
Just gotta wash a stubble some of their faces and do the baseing.
Made by Black tree design & Warlord games.
The only thing i highlight thrice are their faces.
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No.349501
I’ve decided to throw the hair paint job on the back burner, the guy on the right is a prime example.
They’ll star in my bolt action games,
I anticipate picking up the Operation squad rule book and get a homebrewed campaign going.
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No.349502
>>349501
Blue pants needs some white stripes on the sides.
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No.349511
>>349502
‘The Addidas brothers Adi & Adolf Dassler are Facists!’
‘You insinuate I should wear facist clothing?!’
[Eloquent Belorussian swearing at you involving gypsy palluses, your mother’s easter and much else to remain unmentioned]
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No.349536
Currently working on some 6mm models. I'm trying to figure out how I base them. Sand would be way way too big but I need some kind of texture.
I'm going for a forest theme and I'm going to build them on a display base. Any one got any suggestions for what to use please?
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No.349554
>>349511
That's why you wear geniune original chinese abibas knock off instead of actual adidas, my fellow working comrade.
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No.349585
>>333587
Me again.
I finished a Razorback recently. There's no way I'm building another Rhino-chassis vehicle unless GW updates the molds for it. This thing had some of the most egregious assembly seams I've ever encountered, and even after spending a solid week's worth of free time filling and sanding, there are still a few places where I couldn't clean up the seams. I'm pretty happy with where I got it to, though. In the future, I think I'll need to go a little heavier on my glazed shading, as the gradients are just a bit too low-contrast to show up in photographs.
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No.349586
>>349585
Holy shit I finally understand STC's origins, they're the damn molds. The mechanicus is GW, they want to keep reusing the old ones because its cheaper
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No.349587
>>349585
I've never seen someone take drab grey and make it look so good. This shit belongs on display
>>349586
>mfw 3rd party recasters are the Dark Mechanicus
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No.349589
>>349585
At what part of this build did you realise you'd gone insane?
I mean, you painted the inside, the bit nobody ever sees.
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No.350059
What site do you guys use to host your blogs or keep a record of shit you've done in public?
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No.350085
>>349585
Now that, is how you paint.
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No.351999
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No.354204
The miniature painting group I've been attending currently has an informal challenge ongoing which I've been referring to as the "Unloved Colors Challenge." Basically we're each supposed to pick a color that we rarely use and make that the dominant color of a mini. I chose purple. I've painted plenty of fair-skinned characters, but this is my first attempt at rendering an ultra pale albino-white skin tone. It's been a nice break from my very gray Space Marines.
>>351999 (impressive digits)
Your shading is phenomenal. I think you could push the vibrancy on the main body a just little bit further; currently the gold on the gauntlets seems like it might be overwhelming the subtle coloring on the torso.
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No.354259
>>354204
Really like that, both the painting and the miniature.
My first thought was that the bits on her chest was something grabbing or holding her from the other side of the shadows in her cloak.
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No.354318
Mantic do sci fi skaven so I put together one of the rat ogres. His feet make him falling over by default so I'm going to have to build a little diorama like he's diving down on someone.
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No.354319
>>354318
Shit, that looks pretty good. How hard was it to put together?
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No.354320
>>354319
Legs in 2 halves and other wise everything is just gluing it in place. It's 7 pieces with the tail.
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No.354392
>>354204
Nice one, I like more yeloowish / brown bones than grey bones, but it's just a matter of taste.
The metal on the scythe is quite cool.
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No.355521
How do you guys work out a color scheme for an individual mini before you start painting? I've had pic related sitting in my closet for weeks because I can't figure out what I want to do with it.
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No.355553
>>355521
Literally just take a photo like you did, and fuck around in a paint program (paint.net works ok, photoshop is great but too heavy for this, there are other programs too)
If you have a limited palette, take a few photos of your paints in the same light as the figure, so you can use the color drop tool and get the correct colours
Paint.net doesn't really support transparency well, but you get what I was going for
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No.355554
>>355553
here's a better example using transparency
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No.355610
>>355553
Try Krita. It's also free and has a lot of functionality that paint.net doesn't. Also, that's a pretty nice idea, but I'd maybe suggest finding a neutral surface to put a dab of each paint on, as the colors will change a little once they've dried.
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No.355694
>>355553
I messed around a bit in photoshop and it's a definite help.
>>355610
>I'd maybe suggest finding a neutral surface to put a dab of each paint on, as the colors will change a little once they've dried.
I'll keep that in mind.
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No.355724
>>355521
i usually look at the miniature and come up with a colour scheme that fits the "character". That mini, for example, instead of looking like a generic wizard dude, is clearly a necromancer or some dark magic-inclined guy, so colours would be shades of black and earth brown, with the occasional dark green/deep red
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No.356047
I've had a big afternoon of modelling for the first time in years. Made a Age of Sigmar skele army starter box just for some cheap vampire counts stuff and two Malifaux crews.
Tomorrow i start doing the bases and later if it aint cold as fug the basecoat. I used to be intimidated about fucking it up and ruining a model but nowadays im trying to just not care as you only get better with practice.
BUT THAT GODDAMN NECROTIC MACHINE FIGURE IS A FUCKING NIGHTMARE.
I had to use fucking tweezers to hold some of it it was toothpick skinny and mm big. Like trying to build a tyranid out of epic figures.
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No.356193
>>356047
Got em ready for painting and i fucking love these 3d printed base inserts. Wish i had these back in my mordheim days.
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No.356392
how can you build wyrd models without plastic glue and using cyanoacrylate is out of my comprehensions.
I fucking hate assembling malifaux.
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No.356396
>>356392
Honestly that 30mm necrotic machine was far, far harder than the 40 piece 9 inch tall undead dragon thing form games workshop. I've never painted malifaux before but i bought a little lamp/magifying glass thing with little crocodile clips meant for building small circuitboards to paint these. Amazing detail but god does it make them flimsy.
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No.356550
I was inspired by this post >>355553 to try something out for my NPCs.
I'm not an artist, nor do I know many of the finer details of photoshop. Regardless, I set out to make various NPCs of mine in Heroforge, then adding in color afterwards to make things pop. I'm too cheap to actually buy minis, so what I usually do for games is slap a character portrait onto an adhesive little pad - it works pretty well. Unfortunately, I usually only do this with monsters. Monsters that I can easily get pictures of, which makes me shit out of luck for people.
My plan is to make a character portrait and transfer it to the meatspace so my players have a good idea of what important people look like. I really want to make a good enough impression to coerce my players into letting me do this for their PCs, so I'm posting it here for feedback.
I fully admit that shading is really hard. It reminds me of a painted greek statue, which I can't seem to overcome no matter what kind of layer styles, blends, or colors I use.
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No.356871
>>356193
Almost done with all the zombie girls in my crews. Bit more nurgle than i went for, my bad for having no purple paints or washes at all. Pretty happy with Molly since i rarely see anyone try and make her match her box art.
Still first painting in 13 years, just had to not give a fuck about ruining them and jumped in, we're all gonna make it brah
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No.357125
>>356396
I'm assembling Belisarius Cawl right now. 50 pieces, go together like a dream.
Wyrd, 5 pieces, lots of swearing.
Fuck wyrd, really.
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No.357127
>>356550
shading is easy. You just need to stop drybrush everything.
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No.357130
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No.357177
>>357130
it's a technique consisting in using a brush previously dried on a piece of paper and then applied to the model.
Although is a very simple and effective technique for the beginner, it has the side effect to make everything look like a rock. This is why we strongly suggest to evolve to more refined techniques, like layering first and then evolving in glazing.
Hope this answer your questions, for more information, please visit my patreon page:
https://www.patreon.com/plsgibememoneypls
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No.357194
>>356550
You've got the right idea with that strap across his chest- using not just light and dark to communicate the shading, but also color tint (reddish in the shadows shifting to a more golden tint in the light). The highlights on the hair are way too broad.
The biggest issues are the background and the eyes. Vibrant colors are all well and good, but in this case the blue sky is so vibrant that it overwhelms and distracts from the actual character. As for the eyes, you just nee to add a darker border at the top lid and draw your irises so that they're partially obscured by the eyelids. You want to avoid giving a character "sanpaku eyes" unless they're supposed to look somewhat unhinged.
>>357127
>>357177
I'm not sure if this is an attempt at humor, or if this guy genuinely didn't realize that what the above anon posted was a digital edit of a screenshot, not a photograph of an actual mini.
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No.357196
>>357194
>I'm not sure if this is an attempt at humor, or if this guy genuinely didn't realize that what the above anon posted was a digital edit of a screenshot, not a photograph of an actual mini.
Yes, but I have no idea why he did this in a miniature thread.
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No.357211
>>357196
He was clearly responding to earlier posts which were talking about using digital editing to pre-vis color schemes for minis. His post was at least tangentially related to the thread.
In the interest of keeping things on-topic, here are some Plague Marines I've been working on. So far I've just been working on the white and green. I can't remember the last time I did this much dry-brushing on anything other than terrain. I typically avoid dry-brushing because it promotes lazy brush technique, but I think the roughness of it is appropriate for these guys.
Also an Ice Giantess that I finished a couple months back.
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No.357213
>>356871
almost done and dont look nearly as bad on the tabletop as they do here so even though its a bad paintjob im pretty pleased so far.
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No.357234
>>357196
I wasn't really sure where else to put it, and I know it didn't deserve its own thread. Since I got inspiration here, I figured I'd post it here.
>>357211
>that purple undertone in the giantess's hair
That looks great, anon. Your ability to blend colors together is quite impressive.
>>357194
I took your advice and turned down the saturation on the background and gave the eyes shading. That was a really obvious point that I should've realized sooner, and I knew about the irises and still fucked it up. You should've seen my first iterations, they were hideous. I need to practice them more, but your suggestions helped a lot, I think.
A lot of my coloring was a combination of overlay & soft light layers with some masking thrown in to blend things together. I noticed that a multiply layer really helped bring out the color I couldn't get with the others, so I think I might experiment more with it in the future.
Anyway, thanks a lot, that example picture really helped. Honestly, I think it looks better than mine after I've edited it, but you've given me something to work towards.
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No.357236
>>357234
Wait, hold on, before you say anything else, let me post how much detail we'll actually be able to see on this thing when we use it.
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No.357241
will take any pointers for improving, started painting like a month ago as i got into warhammer and need help gitting gud. Also, for those of you that use citadel paints, would you say it's worth it to stick with just those, or have you since been enlightened to better ways of gettin paints?
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No.357249
>>357241
That's phenomenal for just a month under your belt. Digging the backpack.
As for paints, I swear by Vallejo paints, there's a huge variety of them, and they're affordable to boot. The only GW thing I use is washes.
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No.357295
>>357213
aaand done. Took my rusty as fug ass 3 days and maybe 15 hours to paint all these bastards but even if the washes are shit and trying faces after years of spess mareens and tomb kings was a bad first choice i'm happy with them as my first tabletop figures in 13 odd years.
Especially the bases. 3D printed resin with a bit of dry brushing and a wash looks so much better than my own green stuff bases.
-Though i learnt quick to stick them with gorilla glue as citadel plastic glue actually melts 3d print resin and turns it into green slime!
Now to head doon tha toon to the new gaming bar to trick some friends into playing Malifaux!
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No.357296
>>357249
I've just been using vallejo for the first time and my one complaint is they take so long to dry and being quite thin and needing a second coat or a wash and highlight to make them pop takes a lot of time.
But they do blend fantastically compared to GW. Instead of turning into a colour slurry they blend seamlessly and a drop more of one colour or another ratio wise can make some stark differences. But boy do some need to dry overnight.
Still better than some gw consistency wise. I used one light brown that for some reason kept cracking into honeycomb patterns on everything. I assume it was just a bad pot but who knows.
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No.357414
>>357241
Your colors are well applied and your model looks clean. You just need to dare a bit more with your highlights. Remember a model is small and highlights need to be exaggerated in rider to achieve a more impressing result.
So your gold need to go from black or deep brown to silver, your blue up to pure white, your cloack from black to bright red, ecc.
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No.357689
What are some good painting and modelling tool sets bros? The cheapest I saw at my LGS was like $70 for a couple brushes, a file, clippers and palette by Army Painter. Surely there's a more economical way to go about this?
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No.357695
>>357689
Just buy shit individually online. Go down to a hardware store and get a file set for, like, $10 and a ceramic tile for $1. Any nonporous surface will make for a decent palette. Shit, you could probably buy some clippers there for cheap too. There or a dollar store.
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No.357765
>>357689
>basic paintbrushes not branded modelling shit
>a cutting board mat from a stationairy store
>small pallett from the same place
>small magifying glass on a stand with clip arms and a built in light for painting details meant for entry level electronic students in high school for a fiver
>take a longer bottle cap, put a blob of blutak on top and that hoolds your models while you paint
>cheap vallejo paints off amazon, gw shades/washes because for the price they last for thousands of models when used right.
everything else i found in my grandads shed, a small file, clipppers and some gorilla glue.
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No.357772
>>357689
If you want the best of the best, buy W&N serie 7 or Raphael kolinsky brushes.
Clippers yes, to be honest a nail clipper is fine, otherwise go to the hardware and choose a new one. If you don't use a clipper on the sprues you can damage the model using the knife, so it's not useless.
Then the other thing you need is a exacto knife, like a modelling knife, very sharp, to clean lines. I don't find files to useful nowadays, since they're a bit too much on plastic models, they were ok for metal. Eventually just buy a sheet of fine grain sanding paper.
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No.357784
Very early version of harlequin lion wraithlnight.
Photo not very good.
Arms, guns and torso magnetised
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No.357787
>>339719
could you post some of your own works?
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No.358540
YouTube embed. Click thumbnail to play.
Is using newspaper as a "palette" bad? First time painting (recently anyway) and it really seemed like there was such a small sweet-spot between having arguably properly thinned paint and no FUCKING paint at all (full disclosure, I was using Army Painter paint which is from what I've been lead to believe (((by the price tag))) relatively shitty for whatever reason). I just bought a cheap plastic salad plate to use instead but I haven't tried it yet. What do YOU use as a palette, my dudes…and why?
I've never used a non-disposable surface to slather my excess paints on either, what's the ideal way to clean it? Just scrub it down in a bathroom sink or wut?
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No.358545
>>358540
Spare Bathroom tile. Big enough, smooth, easy to mix lots of shit on, most importantly heavy enough that there's no chance an errant nudge will knock it off my table. Plus I have a dozen or so laying around for spares.
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No.358548
>>358540
Silicone typically make for a good reusable palette, as the paint won't stick to it and it can easily be peeled clean.
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No.358553
>>358540
Cheap plastic palettes that all came in a set for a couple bucks. You could seriously just buy a picture frame from a thrift store for a dollar and just use the glass from that. That is, if you don't mind not having divots for washes or glazes or whatnot.
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No.358869
>>358540
Nothing that works is necessarily bad, but I'm a fan of wet palettes; they're pretty damn cheap, but you can also jury-rig one yourself by wetting a few paper towels and spreading some parchment paper on top of them. It keeps the paint at the same consistency, not to mention wet longer.
Be sure to press out any air bubbles and wrinkles so your paint doesn't dry unevenly, and wipe the excess water away from the parchment itself.
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No.358943
>>358540
I was going to bring up wet palettes, but >>358869 beat me to it. To expand on it, though, you can probably get away with dry palettes like others suggest if you live in a relatively humid place. But if, like me, you live in an arid climate, then a wet palette is absolutely essential. Like the other anon said, making one yourself is super easy. Mine is just a foam sponge in a tupperware container with baking parchment or palette paper on top. I also tossed a couple pennies into the water reservoir to prevent it developing mold.
capcha: rgbFuk
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No.359021
Reposting this here because it's the more appropriate thread, plus I need tips and suggestions for this killa Kan.
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No.359027
>>358540
Disposable styrofoam plates. Cheap, can hold paint and if they get too fucked from mixing then you can just toss it. Although I don't use them when it comes to certain stuff, like anything with paint-thinner or acetone.
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No.359158
>>359021
Any pointers before I add the rokkit launcha? (Or should I leave the big shoota?)
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No.359202
>>359158
I'm a fan of the shoota myself, if only because it's cheaper and I don't expect the kan to last long.
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No.359275
>>359158
I don't know how 8th goes, but Kans used to be the best source of BS3 rokkits. Then again, grot tanks are better if you want fire support anyway, so you might as well keep the Kans cheap and melee focused.
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No.359293
>>359202
>>359275
decided to go shoota then, still made it easily replacable in case I decide I need more fire support.
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No.359300
>>359293
That's the cutest little kan I've ever seen.
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No.359314
>>359300
thanks! I'm already scourging my grandpa's workshop for materials for a second one, although I'm not sure how to make shinny real metals look good alongside foam.
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No.359723
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No.359755
far from the hardest model to assemble but jesus fuck this took like 5 fucking hours to make.
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No.359756
>>359723
Coming along nicely, anon!
>>359755
Now just imagine how much longer it will take to paint.
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No.359759
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No.359773
>>359723
These are really nice. How long do they take you to throw together?
>>359755
I really want to use the body for some sort of conversion but I have no idea what to use it for.
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No.359777
>>359773
Have the main body bursting out with fatty tissue and gore and make it a nurgle demonengine?
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No.359778
>>359777
I was thinking of having it be the turret of some sort of chaos tank, actually. Or replace the legs with defiler legs.
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No.359779
>>359778
they basically are then you add this mudflap thign underneath connected to the joint. Without that it ends in spiked legs.
But i suppose chaos had to lift the idea from somewhere.
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No.359780
>>359779
I just really love walking tanks, so I suppose I'd swap out some of the weapons and just call it a leman russ. From the pictures it looks like it's about the same size, maybe a little taller.
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No.359783
>>359780
the base is as big as a CD
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No.359784
>>359783
>CD
Do you mean a compact disc? Either way, I probably wouldn't put it on the base, unless that would make it too unstable.
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No.359785
>>359784
yeah i might make the base into a diorama but its fine on its 4 legs.
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No.359812
>>359773
about two evenings each, I will start on the last one tomorrow.
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No.359880
>>359773
The legs could work nicely as a custom Abeyant for a Archmagos Prime. Though if you're worried about the original basesize being 60mm, you might want to cut the legs to pose them or build up some terrain on the base so make the pose work. Some pics for inspiration.
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No.359903
So how do you lads feel about sub-assemblies?
I started off painting with it, and now I just can't get around the notion of having poorly-painted, finnicky details that I couldn't reach. At the same time, though, it's such a pain in the ass to have coherent shading and highlights when everything on a big model is laid out without much reference to other parts.
Basically, how the hell do I find a happy medium without giving myself days more work repainting after gluing?
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No.359907
>>359903
The concept of clipping off a painting part makes me physically cringe.
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No.359908
>>359907
Good fucking Emprah preserve us, sub-assemblies, not painting on sprue. Speak not of Chaos here.
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No.360246
Forgive the terribad phone pictures but i've been experimenting with some bases and paints for an autumnal Sylvaneth army.
One is the gw recommended base, shade, drybrush and so on, one is my usual for wood and two others are a mix of what works.
I tried using a series of different items on the bases. A dark autumn flock, a light yellow flock along with some historical 'summer plants' on a strip i trimmed down and a tiny box of 'autumn forest floor' which is basically small wooden chips that are treated like those things people put on garden borders instead of slate on a smaller scale.
The last ones just dont work on a 40mm base but i think it should work fine for the giant stuff like the ancient forest lord and drycha.
Surprisingly while they look as rough as i expect for a rusty painter getting back into it on a tabletop they turned out pretty good. I think using mephistopheles red, and a yellow and orange from vallejo covered in some earthshade and orange washes makes a nice contrast to the pale autumn style wood drybrushed all over with pallid wychflesh and then the tips of the claws and branches drybrushed in increasingly shortened lengths of all the leaf colours.
Its nothing compared to what i've seen professionals do with the models but it was a learning experience thats for sure.
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No.361077
first attempt at painting (only just got into 50k) how'd i do?
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No.361132
>>361077
id say not bad, I would recommend putting some washes over those though. They will give them more a 3 dimensional feel.
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No.361133
Here is somthing I did a week ago. I plan on using it for AOS.
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No.361135
>>361077
Look into edge highlights, washes and drybrushing. its clean but looks like base coating without the details put on.
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No.361149
>>361135
>>361077
i wanted to keep it quite simple for now but i did give them all a good coating of nuln oil to give them a dirty look, ill save complicated paint jobs for the vehicles when i get them
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No.361150
Salt weathering. Not perfect but come out ok.
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No.361429
What is a good alternative for citadel's leadbelcher? I used to have a conversion chart but I lost it.
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No.362342
Working on my Malifaux rail crew and trying some more complex stuff this time. Really experimenting with highlighting and it looks pretty good for a first try but sadly barely shows up on camera at all. It was nerve wracking at first thinking 'im ruining this model' as you go over just the raise parts of the dark brown pants with some light ushabto bone but i found base coat>watered down wash>highlight>thinned wash>edging highlights. gave some good results.
Still dogshit on faces but i'm learning. Also pretty happy i pulled off some chinese skintones that didn't look like a racist newspaper strip from the 1930's or something. If you are looking i got the results from a blend of vallejo flat flesh, salmon rose and dark flesh as a base, a GW reikland flesh shade was followed by a vallejo medium flesh, sunny skin tone and increasing drops of the base coat ones till i got the right colour to highlight raised areas like muscles and ribs followed by a thinned second coat of fleshshade. All the vallejos came in one 'skintones' paint set for like £8 on amazon.
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No.362359
Favorite online stores to buy paint at?
>forgot to say I'm in USA
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No.362368
Anyone have experience with Culture Hustle's "LIT" pigment?
It's advertised as the most luminent pigment on the market (which could be really cool for Necrons / Haemonculi) and is compatible with acrylic medium, though I've heard their in-house medium isn't too good for miniature painting, and was curious if problems came up in their other products.
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No.362369
>>362368
You can do better than that.
Just grind up your local CIA agent. :^)
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No.362463
>>362342
Awesome, thanks for the paint advice. Was the first coat an equal blend of flat flesh/salmon rose/dark flesh?
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No.362467
>>362463
I looked at the characters on the box art and kept mixing till i was a shade darker, keeping in mind i would highlight after.
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No.362701
>>362342
Well i'm "finished" though i may touch up more in future but i think a good lesson is to learn when to stop. I'm new to painting again and especially faces which i've never done before but overall i\m pleased with them.
The emberling was the hardest to get looking good enough because ive never done anything like it before and i tried to make Toshiro look dirty and aged but they are easily the weakest parts. Pictures dont do them enough justice but on the table they look 'intermediate'. not skilled but not truly shit tier.
If anyone cares the bases are resin inserts on malifaux bases in some, straight solid one piece resin bases with others. The chinese skin came out great and not 'WHAT WHITEY THINKS THE YELLOW JEW LOOKS LIKE' using a blend of paints that all came in the Vallejo face and skintones 8 paint set from Amazon.
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No.362702
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No.364612
Your master come out all right, the goons can definitely use a glaze or two on their skin tone.
Overall nice job.
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No.364633
>>362701
I really like the Emberling, some nice colours in that
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No.364869
Taking a break from my Malifaux terrain for my new Shadespire figures. Fucking gorgeous even if i dont care for sigmarines or khorne aka boring chaos YES I SAID IT.
Skaven are fucking beautiful sculpts.
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No.364872
>>364869
Are you gonna paint those skaven up?
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No.364882
>>364872
BOI U FUKKIN' KNOW IT M8
Just look at the leader. Look at that base. Fucking just look at it.
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No.365132
>>364869
Done a quick speed paint on the skaven to see how i'd do. Waiting overnight for shade to dry before highlighting and a weaker shade. 50% done and looking alright with just flat base colours.
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No.365137
>>364882
It's nice to know that Skaven kept their style of armor, and didn't get all fucked up with skavrines or some such shit.
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No.365138
>>365137
You don't mess with perfection.
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No.365139
>>365137
Well technically its "warhammer underworlds: shadespide". Its got sigmarines in it but its not actually called age of sigmar so the only major connection is being trapped in a mirror city nagash cursed while buttmad.
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No.365348
>>365132
and done. Never done Skaven before and it was fun. Tried to mix up some vallejo and nihilak oxide to make a 'glow' drybrush around the water and it totally didn't work but learning to paint regardless of fear of fucking it up is how i improve.
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No.365664
Alright, I know that this isn't exactly /tg/'s thing, but I figure that if anybody can give me a crash course, it's the Warhammer people. There was a long line of people regifting pic related because they didn't want it. Well I do want it and I want to put it together, but I don't want to fuck it up. Instructions are written in moon runes and I'm not very good at reading them. Actual assembly instructions are mostly pictures and it looks like the pieces are supposed to snap together.
How do I cut out all the pieces and clean them up without fucking everything up? Low/no cost options preferable, as I'm kinda broke and jobs don't grow on trees in my area. inb4 /a/ ni kaero!
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No.365668
>>365664
You can just use wire cutters and cheap dollar store nail files to sand down the nubs if you wanna be super cheap about it. You might wanna look up a translation for the instructions, if one exists. I'm not the best at building models, so there might be better you can do for the same price.
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No.365678
>>365664
If you can afford it, I recommend a set of Tamiya hobby cutters. They run about $20, but they cut through plastic like butter.
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No.365679
>>365664
The booklets for gunpla are in moonrunes, yes, but the instructions are just the pictures and they work just fine.
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No.365720
Friday night, marooned on foreign shores, and what am I doing? Teaching myself the language? Seducing exotic women? Hell no. I'm taking shitty photos of figs I painted last week.
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No.365770
>>365664
The /tg/ Crafts thread would have also been acceptable, but since you're here anyways, lemme ease your fears by telling you that you don't need to understand a single moonrune to build one of those kits. I've been building these things since I was 10. All you have to do is follow along with the pictures. See how the runner frames (the sheets of parts) have a letter along the side, and how each part has a tiny number next to it? In the instructions, it will label parts according to those. So when it tells you to take part B22, that means you grab the sheet with a B on it, and look for #22, pop that out, and assemble it as directed by the pictures. The only steps that might give you trouble are the stickers, as those are often labeled with moonrunes, so keep an eye out for those steps in the instructions and just try your best you match the symbols if you're unsure of which one you're supposed to put on.
If you want it to look really nice and have minimal sprue-marks and clean lines, it helps to carefully snip each piece from the runner with the nippers flush against the piece. Either way, you'll probably have to use a nail file or a needle file to get in there and smooth it out, but do so carefully. You can probably find a serviceable pair of nippers and some nail files from the dollar store. I cannot stress enough how much good shit you can find at the dollar store.
Go have fun now. Gunpla is a great hobby, even if you're not serious about it. Also, keep in mind that you may end up with extra parts and stickers. I've got an Astaroth kit (also from Iron-blooded Orphans) that can with a complete second set of arms and legs so you could match up the color scheme, for example
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No.365799
>>365770
Speaking of which, Gouf Flight type and RG Zaku minelayer just dropped at P-Bandai. Now the only question is, how many to buy?
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No.365803
>>365668
>>365679
>>365770
>>365678
Thanks for the tips, everybody. I'll start tonight after I get back from D&D and submit a few more job applications. I've already got a set of dikes and a nail file, so I should be set.
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No.365828
I happened to have a bunch of old plastic soldiers of the same scale as the custodes and decided to try and convert them, the pauldron have been the hardest part so far because I can't make them out of flat foam pieces.
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No.365959
Just got into this and tried to paint a Lamenter. How the fuck are you supposed to get yellow to cover anything?
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No.365960
>>365959
THIN YOUR PAINTS slightlt less
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No.365961
>>365959
Mix the paint with your tears to make it thematically appropriate.
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No.365991
Went to comicon today and just before its last big closing thing -where micheal rooker shut down a bunch of literally quivvering soyboys trying to be lolrandum which will be a fond memory for years- i saw a store was shifting figures cheap because 'only X wing is selling' and in between the sweaty beasts swarming the tyranid stuff, ironically i suppose, i saw some malifaux and the thicc lady justice box was only £12!
Not into guild but i love malifaux and flaming skeletal marshals/gunslinger spirits bringing law to the lawless at that price were too good to pass up.
So thats Malifaux crew #4 this year. I may have a problem.
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No.365993
>>365959
Thin with 2 parts paint to one water and then paint a thing layer, let it dry and repeat twice. Do it. Throw on some vidya and relax.
DON'T. RUSH IT.
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No.366012
>>365959
Just use a appropriate primer. I'm pretty sure they sell cans of yellow primer, if not try brown or white, then build up with yellow base and layers.
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No.366229
>>366228
Your lack of tact tells otherwise faggot. Wrong thread, wrong approach.
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No.366260
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No.366263
>>366228
>using reddit 2.0
smh tbh fam
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No.367077
I am an absolute failure. Please tell me how to unfuck this for my next batch.
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No.367084
>>367077
You can start by holding the camera the right way up.
Secondly, run a hobby knife along the mold lines before you start painting.
Thirdly, undercoat the yellow with a neutral gray, then build up to the bright yellow with a not-so-bright yellow layer, followed by two thin coats of the proper layer. Yes, this means quite a few layers, but if the neutral gray is your primer, that saves some time.
Fourthly, use a pencil to mark out the checkerboard pattern, rather than freehanding it from the get go.
If you make a mistake, something that can be removed with an eraser is simpler than something that needs detergent.
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No.367086
>>367077
To add on to that, I've seen people use a felt tipped pen to color in the checkerboard pattern. It seems to work well enough, but your mileage may vary.
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No.370267
Is it generally considered poor form to edge highlight metallics with matte paint?
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No.370313
>>367077
Why is it upside down?
Biggest thing is to figure a way to make your lines straight. I've heard people recommend tape, but that's a lot of tape, and sounds like a pain. Still, probably the best way to go.
Paint one solid color, probably white, paint the heart, add tape for checkering pattern.
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No.370318
>>370267
the way I do it is hitting them with a wash then highlighting it with the same metallic and leaving it unwashed
you might try mixing the matte with the metallic on a palette to give it a subtle effect
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No.370696
Got me a box of these el cheapo 2 piece clip together models to teach myself how to paint. Going to try out something i heard about from a few modelling forums and use a can of rustoleum 2x primer instead of the warp dust infused promethium they sell in the citadel cans. Both because my LGS is 50 kms away, and this stuff is 10 dollars cheaper. A few other things i need is a basic white, and some hardware, like a small clamp or something so i can hold the model while i paint. Any tips or suggestions for any of the above will help a lot.
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No.370709
I made an Entombed chapter dreadnought from a /tg/ alt-heresy
r8 pls no bully
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No.370712
>>370709
various stages of WIP.
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No.370748
I reckon this is a pretty passable effort for a first try. Remind me to paint the entire box next time, i wasted too much paint doing just one model. This is pre-wash as well, hopefully that will hide a few sins. Leadbelcher is an absolute pleasure to work with as well, goes on superbly.
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No.370749
How do people get the super sharp finish on the decals? Use a flat stamp or something? The paint just bled into all the detail, and kind of fucked it up a little. Would clearing the lines with a pin or something work?
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No.370763
And here i thought beer was the Emperors gift to mankind, turns out its washes. It almost looks like i know how to paint after applying one.
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No.370771
>>370748
The paint job looks a little thick, but it looks like everything's in the right place. Very good.
>>370763
Now we're talking. Washing almost feels like cheating. Are you going to try your hand at highlighting now?
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No.370782
>>370749
vvv small amount of unthinned paints on a detail brush. The thicker your paints are the more they stay where you put them.
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No.370785
>>370763
remove the mold lines faggot.
Go over the boots where they meet the pants. You have got tan on the boots and need to clean ir up.
Other wise solid basic paintjob. An army of those would look good.
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No.370818
>>370785
I did, just not good enough i suppose. I think this one was the model i popped out last, and got sidetracked. I noticed it as i was painting. When i do get paint on an already painted piece, and i dont notice straight away, how do i get it off? Or just go over it again?
>>370771
And here i thought i was putting the paint on too thin. It kept trying to bleed off down the details. Im pretty sure that for most of it, the tan and green especially, it was quite thin, probably 1.5 to 1 in favour of water, because i kept underestimating the drops i was adding. I did two coats, and then there were areas that were still showing the primer, so i touched em up a little. I think for this colour scheme i might get a coffee brown primer, might get away with less fiddling about. And ill probably try highlighting when i do the next 4 minis, wasting paint otherwise. And at 6 bucks a pot, ever drip and drab is sacred.
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No.371417
I got a couple female wraiths and I decided I wanted to go for a color scheme like pic related. I already mostly figured out how I'm going to approach matching the clothing colors, but how would you guys suggest doing the skin?
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No.371430
>>371417
Maybe start with a very light, neutral grey, then softly glaze with a watered down version of the dress's colour?
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No.371506
>>371417
Start with grey like >>371430, then either highlight with a light green/grey mix OR, dry brush the light green on. Some of the old Vampire Counts models had exotic skin colors, but I never saw a tutorial on how to paint them like that. You could try a light green wash over the grey but I don't know if it will have the desired effect.
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No.375345
Anyone used resin before? I'm getting some idoneth deepkin because i really like their lore and love deep sea shit and want to make some bases like they are walking up out of the tide. Resin water bases used to look like the greatest thing ever when i was a kid. nowadays i see them less but some neat shit like pic related.
Anyone tried doing it?
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No.375820
Anyone know a good guide for painting marble statues? I've got this old angel figure I've got a mind to turn into a statue of Nike/Victoria for the Romans I'm working on.
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No.375829
>>375820
If you believe some random people I heard, than marble statues were supposed to be painted in different colors, just like you paint regular miniatures, its just paint was washed out by time.
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No.375838
>>375829
Doubtful, they didn't have even nearly as much dyes back then as we do now. No proper blue, no proper red, no proper any color, really.
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No.375884
>>375829
>>375838
And even if that was true, if the statue was sufficiently old, it would be irrelevant and the well-known marble look would be the thing to go for regardless.
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No.375926
>>375829
Statues being painted is backed up by historians and archaeologists, so there's perhaps some merit to the idea. Now, the shit that may or may not be true is the story that some people, upon finding the statues long after their creation, found them partially covered in paint, and decided that they looked too silly and cartoonish to match the noble and respectable image these ancient civilizations inspired in modern peoples, so they stripped them down to bare marble and damaged them in the process.
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No.375989
>>375926
To be fair, I don't blame em.
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No.375994
>>375926
It's also backed up by spectroscopy because many of the statues retain miniscule amounts of the pigments used.
So if you want to be, erm, authentic you're looking at a marble effect as the base for the statue with details like cloaks, hair etc painted in strong, garish colors.
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No.376026
>>375994
I doubt they just slapped quick half ass coats of paint on them like in your picture. They probably hired artists who would put almost as much care into the work as the sculptor did. There might have added all sorts of fine details, shading and gradients till the things were almost life like.
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No.376027
>>376026
really makes you think how much we've lost of their civilization.
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No.376028
>>376026
Was just about to say this, actually. The traces of the paint found likely wouldn't include any detail of layering. If we paint in detail on miniatures today, what reason would the artists have to not do the same to a full scale statue? Only thing I could think of would be pigment limitations, which is basically a non-issue because why would your statue of the emperor use a pigment he himself couldn't possibly wear? In conclusion, thick globs of unthinned paint and no highlights/shadows looks like shit no matter the age.
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No.376030
>>376027
Yeah, nowadays no one cares about painting their sculptures. Except people in this thread.
>>376028
>why would your statue of the emperor use a pigment he himself couldn't possibly wear
Cloth coloring are not the marble coloring. You cant just coat clothes with transparent layer of varnish assuming it existed in some reasonable form. At the same time clothes are not 24/7 sitting under sun and rain assuming they often put statues outside.
>thick globs of unthinned paint and no highlights/shadows looks like shit no matter the age
Picrelated >>375829
And you dont really need to make artificial shadows if you work on life sized models. And you would probably think about statue already in its place with set lighting/daily change of it when you decide on colors. If anything original setting might be bigger lose than coloring.
And some objects look different in different circumstances, like in movies they use some bullshit instead of real blood, because real blood dont look real enough.
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No.376066
>>376030
Alright I see the point here, the artistry is definitely enough to hold the same beauty with maybe one or two colours. I just doubted that the designs would have looked as striking and clownish as this >>375994 image, although after looking around a bit for other examples it might just have been that my idea of their society and art had been elevated beyond what it actually was. Don't get me wrong, the sculptures are beautiful all the same, its just I feel their colouration (if accurate) is a disservice to the form. Funnily enough I also sometimes hesitate and sit on miniatures for days because they can sometimes look so nice unpainted.
I would get into detail about the pigments, but really I don't have a huge knowledge base in it and it really only serves to derail the thread for me to go on about it.
Either way, it does well to discuss how factors such as scale can affect the whole process of how you go about painting 3D objects.
Considering the details are much finer and the proportions are more even and lifelike, I see that the need for exaggeration of the shapes involved would be reduced.
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No.376090
>>375994
>strong, garish colors
Well, I guess art too, has come full circle…
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No.376247
I AM HAPPY, HAPPY ABOUT ELVES
Picked up some of GW's new idoneth deepkin because i really want to paint some deep sea shit. Shook the rust off by starting with a Tidecaster rising out a whirlpool on some ruined shit.
Trying some new stuff to make water with and for my first attempt and test base on more real estate looking pretty good for an amatuer. It aint resin but for a super cheap solution its nice.
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No.376249
>>375994
IS NOBODY GOING TO QUESTION THE BABY HANGING FROM HIS FUCKING LEG?
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No.376254
>>376247
If you want deep sea shit, check out pics related. No idea how the game plays but the models are awesome.
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No.376290
>>376254
a lot of deepsea stuff doesnt do it for me because they lack any 'ruins' stuff for the bases. For me i like my model bases to be a mini diorama that tells a story. You can't think fantasy world sea floor without ruins and bare stone just dont do it for me.
Like i will shit on plenty of modern GW sculpts but i really like some of the recent deepkin shit.
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No.376507
>>376290
>>376247
I can respect your opinion, but you smell kinda fishy to me 'anon.'
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No.376525
>>376507
Kinda floundering with those kind of accusations, but now i've also finished a unit till i get a new fine detail brush for highlights, pretty happy but the picture bleeds out the shading so they arent much to carp on about in the image.
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No.376533
>>376254
Guy in 1st pic looks like rubber vagina.
>>376066
>derailing thread about painting miniatures by talking about pigments and ancient painters
>that my idea of their society and art had been elevated beyond what it actually was
Indeed, beauty standards changed a lot. For example in ancient Rome, something might be painted red just because it was super expensive and unique pigment not avaible for anybody else. Just like people used aluminium tableware because aluminium was expensive and new at a time.
And people with bad taste always existed.
>What do you mean it just white? DO you expect me to paint it myself? What I am paying 30 gold pieces for! Paint it asap!
>yeah, I will make your statue good as new! Just let me get my paint kit.
Or someone might just vandalized the statues. They did invaded fucking Rome after all.
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No.376589
>>376254
CMON is shit, every model I got from them has had some issue, either with shit refusing to fit together or terrible, unclear details in the sculpt.
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No.376649
>>376589
Well, I backed the WoK kickstarter and there were some issues, particularly with some of the basic troops and a couple of the characters. But the squid and the larger models were good at least.
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No.376696
>>376649
I had that backed for a decent amount of stuff until shit came up last minute and had to cut it back to just the cool skeleton king. What I got was a blobby mess with no deep details like they previewed.
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No.376810
>>376696
That's the funny thing, just about everything else ended up better than that guy. You'd think they'd at least be able to pull off a promo. At least the KD crossover one was perfect.
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No.377001
Anyone know a good way to go about making a helmet and coif/aventail like pic 1?
Should I do the coif/aventail over an existing head?
Should I just do the entire head from scratch?
I'm going to be working from a base Hail Caesar celt model (pic 2), so the heads are a bit big, and I'm worried that if I try this he will just look like some sort of deformed child or something. Maybe I can hack off parts of the head to put chainmail on it so it doesn't look too bulky?
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No.377005
>>377001
Wouldnt it be better to look for some norman or byantine units for that?
They rocked that look afterall.
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No.377012
>>377005
I think you're right
Trouble is, I don't own anything to work from that looks like that. Closest I have are praetorian guards (pics related) who wear a very distinctive lorica segmentata, which maybe could pass for some lamellar but I don't even know where to start about converting it. The other thing is, the rest of the models I've already painted are from a period where dacians are still a thing, so I run into accuracy issues if I go for the 7th century byzantine mercenary look. Regardless of that, it would be lots of fun to have my very own varangian. Maybe I could look up some guides on lamellar/scalemail and do the body as well, working from a plain shirt that some of the celt bodies have.
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No.377046
Alright this is my first attempt at an aventail. This is also my first time trying to make a chainmail pattern on green stuff. It is also my second time using green stuff for conversion. I chose a head that originally had a big bushy beard (exactly like the celt in the middle of pic 2 in >>377001), then I cut away the beard and nose and left some room to put the aventail, which was pushed together using a sharpened pencil. I'm pretty satisfied with this so far, even though it looks like his face is covered in spaghetti instead of mail If there are some techniques or tips about making chainmail, I'm all ears. Because his noseguard is really big, I've decided to call him fryggward.
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No.377083
>>376066
Please stop posting. You have no idea what you're talking about and are just applying your GW painting guide to other things. When you sculpt something you take liberties here and there to make it more appealing, even at a life size scale. The amount of work you put in means you fudge things around the edges to get a better natural shadow or to add some flare to it.
Bayonetta is a good example of this where her legs are massive compared to the rest of her but you don't notice it at first glance. It takes actually sitting down and looking at each part to see the scale is off. As a whole it works even if each part is hence off scale.
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No.377088
>>377083
I was referring to the painting of the life size sculpture, not the actual sculpting of it; the exaggeration by painting in layers and having highlights and shadows and whatnot. Based on the reconstructions I've seen so far, it seems like they didn't do that, and it makes sense since the need for it is likely diminished by the fact that the sculpture's form assists these aspects more than a miniature would. I'll stop posting once you start reading.
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No.377089
>>377088
I read what you said. It was a poster child for the retarded 40k kiddy mentality.
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No.377091
>>377089
Everything in your post described the shape of the sculpture itself and said nothing about painting or colour. Are you unaware of the topic we were discussing? I can remind you if you'd like.
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No.377093
>>377091
Oh, also on top of that: your first ridiculous response seems to be interpreting what I'm saying as "life size sculptures have no exaggeration in their form". All I said was that - relative to a miniature - the need for such exaggerations would be reduced. So, even if I was talking about their sculpting (which I wasn't), you'd still be an illiterate nigger.
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No.377140
>>377046
I really like it my dude; almost sure the discrepancies will disappear under a layer or two of paint.
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No.377149
>>377140
Thanks for the support anon.
I tried painting him, but I still see a few issues.
After getting these photos together, I noticed his base still needs a little more TLC. Some mould lines also managed to survive without me catching them, though this is also the first time I've been looking out for them so I'm sure next time around I'll do better. One issue that I ran into was that the mould lines were over some of his chainmail tunic and the more I tried to remove the mould line, the more chainmail detail I removed on top of it. I used some sandpaper and a hobby knife, and through this trial it seems hobby knife is the way to go for precision.
I tried to give him some colours that would compliment my hurricane d6s. I think I'm happy with my colour choice, but I think just generally my paint job could have been executed much better, specifically with the helmet and the eyes. Should I be detailing the whites/pupil on helmeted characters like this, or should I just leave it the way it is now? If there's anything else that sticks out to anyone, anything I might be doing wrong (paint thinning, etc.) once again, I'm all ears.
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No.377557
>>376525
Priming my next shit. Fuck i love ghost ships so much. Fucking everyone i know is buying one of these no matter the game they play. Fahking byootiful sculpt.
Also got a soulreaver to go with my tidecaster, really quite large surprisingly, dont let the image fool you the gloodtime wreck is the size of like a size 14 shoe, the soulreaver is much bigger than the tidecaster. Probably comparable to the Skitarii tech priest model.
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No.377562
>>377149
Thats pretty neat anon, what are they supposed to be?
Scythians?
Armenians?
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No.377916
>>377562
Well, to be honest there isn't really a single, specific culture that this guy could come from. I imagined him to be more of a Rus' - ish type. The varangian labeled '2' in anon's third pic from >>377005 Is what I ultimately decided would be easiest to do for the helmet, although the rest of his armour is relatively primitive compared to the source image, due to the fact that the base model I used is from a Celt who is (presumably) from the early Germanic Iron Age. So to accurately answer your question, he's really just a hodgepodge of cool looking stuff I grabbed anywhere from Celtic and Norse to Slavic peoples. I might try a more accurate Varangian in the future when I'm more confident in my sculpting abilities, but for now Fryggward will dominate the table.
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No.377942
>>377557
If you like ghost ships ect, you should scout out your local pet stores (or your regional equivalent) for aquarium decorations - you'll find plenty of wrecks and other junk for a much cheaper price than you can get any offical wargaming terrain for.
Plus, they're nearly always painted at least halfway decently, which is always a bonus.
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No.377997
>>377942
True i just really like this model for my Deepkin Army. All the little touches like some tentacled beast creeping out of the earth the hulls sunk into and the tiny twin tailed comets are a nice touch. I don't know why since most sigmar stuff i find a bit too warcraftey for me but i guess im just a sucker for deep sea bullshit.
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No.378506
>>376249
God you're retarded.
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No.378997
>>376525
next model for my army is about 80% done, never painted an animal before. i feel like i need a super small, flat brush for edging.
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No.379012
>>378997
just gotta let the acrylic water set to add the woodland scenics foam but for my first warhammer army im quite happy with the visual theme so far.
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No.379640
I'm brushing on primer at the moment. How do I stop little tiny bubbles from forming in the coat as I lay it on?
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No.379666
>>379640
If you're using white or some other hard-to-mix color you can try blending it with a bit of darker pigment; it usually goes on more smoothly. Alternatively you can practice your paint huffing skills and just blow on the miniature as you apply the primer like a kind of mock airbrush- pain in the ass, but it works.
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No.381417
>>379012
Finished my Voltournos good enough for tabletop and started on my Gloomtide Shipwreck and decided a basecoat of corax white followed by a coat of nihilak oxide and fuck me that consumed a whole pot.
Now i dont know if i should use blue, yellow and brown inks/washes for the deep areas of the sculpt before or after a drybrushing of ulthuar grey then a light zandri dust and pale wych flesh.
Gonna be nice to try rusty armor for the first time. Got some typhus corrosion i inteded for my shadespire skeles i havent gotten to yet but i really want this to look spooky. Wish i could try some of that glow in the dark paint for the fish to look real deep sea but a bit pointless on the table.
Still my first big organic model and i learnt a lot about stippling and blending.
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No.381437
regimental adviser master of ordinance
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No.381440
>>381437
I like his yelling face.
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No.382325
Anyone know if the Night Lords upgrade kit is metal or finecast?
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No.382344
I want to get better at painting faces, but I was happy with how this Sister turned out.
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No.382357
Any tips for not fucking up when putting together figures or painting?
The last and only figure I put together was an IG sergeant a few years ago.
Thinking about getting into plastic modeling again. Planning on getting some dollar store army men to practice on first for painting.
I already know about thin your paints and two thin cats, although a little more detail into how exactly to thin and what brushes to use/how to put two thin coat can help.
If shit, plastic model building for newfags. How do I do things decently?
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No.382371
>>382357
Easiest way to thin paints is with water. Mix paint and water on a palette until you achieve the consistency of skim milk. You'll feel the paint flow more freely when it's the proper consistency. See this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wxWgsqSf74s
As for brushes, the Army Painter Wargamer Brush set is a good place to start. I personally really like the Citadel brushes, but they are a little expensive. It always helps to have some cheaper brushes laying around so it's not such a big deal if something happens to them, like when I got superglue in my Windsor and Newton.
tl;dr watch the warhammertv videos
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No.382377
>>382357
In all honesty anon the best advice I would start with is just to practice a lot with cheap materials until you start to get a hang of it. Other anons might disagree but I recommend picking up a set of cheap brushes on sale to begin with. Don't spend more than 10 bucks on a set. If you're just planning on doing 28mm mini's or smaller and nothing bigger than that for now just pick up a single detailing brush, it'll handle everything you'll need for the basics. As for paints I recommend water soluble acrylic paints. Don't go for Citadel first thing, they're far more expensive than pretty much anything else (to be honest I don't find the quality worth it a lot of the time, imo) and if you're not 100% sure you want to stick with the hobby you'll be left with expensive paint that you didn't use. As for the kind of paint you should get for getting your feet wet there's a large variety to choose from: Vallejo is a favorite for many, Reaper, Battlefront, Army Painter, Stone Mountain Colors, etc.
My personal opinion? Go down to the local craftstore or walmart or whatever you have closest to you and pick yourself up some simple craft paints. There's a bunch of different brands but they all work out roughly the same: Craft Smart, Apple Barrel, Folk Art, Americana, etc. 2oz bottles at less than or around 1 dollar with many of the brands coming in large sets with multiple colors for about 10 bucks, you really can't beat that on value. For washes I recommend picking up some acrylic "artist inks" mix it with some water and a drop or two of dish soap and you're good to go. Just don't go too hard on the stirring otherwise you'll make it bubble which will give you the opposite of a nice flowing wash. Otherwise you can also use Pledge with the ink instead. OR if you don't want to be a complete cheapskate bastard you can just get some general paint flow aid at the same place you buy your paints and it'll work out all the same.
Thin your paints with water until you get a nice milky consistency. Clean your brush(es) with soap and water, don't leave them there or they'll break down and the bristles will get fucked.
Now at this point you've probably only spent at most around 10-30~ dollars (Not counting minis) and the only thing left to do is just to paint and practice. If it turns out the hobby isn't for you then at least you won't be feeling salty about spending so much on expensive equipment that you won't use again. If you DO like it then upgrading your stuff is easy and you can still use the cheaper stuff for other things within your hobby.
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No.382488
>>379640
If you can afford it, spring for a can of Army Painter's uniform grey spray. Spraying primer is much easier, produces a more consistent and thin coat, and grey is a great color to work from for brighter tones like yellow.
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No.382495
>>382357
dollar store men are bad. You can't paint detail if there's no detail there.
https://www.youtube.com/user/ThePaintingClinic
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No.382496
Welp there goes several hours of work. AK interactive enamels fucked up Bandai plastic. any where it goes get internally became fucked and broke
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No.382524
>>382357
>>382495
This is also very true. Mantic, Bones, and Reaper make decent miniatures that are on the less expensive side.
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No.382525
>>382496
Aww hell, that sucks.
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No.382786
I'm going to start a youtube channel for modeling projects, maybe even do some streaming on Twitch. I have no idea how to network though since most communities are liberal as fuck and I have no tolerance for that shit.
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No.382799
>>382786
Prominently feature a gondola. That will attract the right crowd, and repell the soul-less. They seems to be a garlic-esque deterrent for the plaid and pasty.
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No.382809
>haven't touched miniatures in 20 years
>think about getting back in to hobby
>everything is plastic nowadays but still expensive as fuck
>no Ral Partha colors
everything gets ruined
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No.382811
>>382809
Ral Partha paints were low quality. Vallejo paints are awesome and it's a step in the right direction.
There's still metal hold outs if you go into like the reaper line or Warlord games. It's just GW who went full plastic.
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No.382817
>>382809
>>382811
Infinity is all metal, too. And fairly inexpensive as long as you don't fall for the investing into multiple factions trap.
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No.382818
>>382811
Ral Partha where the best paints. At least for the way I painted. I love how they were totally mat. Other colors are too glossy imho.
>>382817
Thank god I still have an unpainted chaos dwarf army, some ork freebooterz and a bunch of terminators.
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No.382819
>>382818
Scale 75 are super matt if that's what you're looking for.
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No.382821
>>382819
Thanks, I'll check them out. They aren't even that expensive.
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No.382822
>>382821
They're one of the most expensive current lines because they're designed for top tier painters and airbrushing. They're exceptionally good and work well brushed or airbrushed. I think only GW is more expensive of the commonly used paints.
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No.382824
>>382822
Yeah the GW paints were my point of reference.
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No.382838
>>382818
If you're going for matte hobby paints, check out Reaper's line. The price is pretty average for hobby paints, and virtually all of them dry matte. Some of Vallejo's paints are great ("Smoke" is incredibly versatile), but I've found a lot of their line to be hit-or-miss, especially with reds and greens. They also tend to dry satin/semi-gloss which I don't like.
>>382824
>Yeah the GW paints were my point of reference.
Don't do that. GW's paints averaged about a full dollar more expensive per bottle than Reaper/Vallejo/etc. last I checked. The only GW paints that are really worth the price are their more technical products like washes and effect paints.
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No.382860
>>382838
More expensive for a smaller bottle.
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No.382947
Finally got my grot tanks finished. The weapons were a pain to make, but I now have enough dakka for the tanks to matter.
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No.383449
YouTube embed. Click thumbnail to play.
Counts as Demon prince.. or it's just a fucking hunk chunk of anime shaped resin.
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No.383701
Ok, Im current working on the base for Curze. But I painted the Solar Aux like the one pictured. So what should the color of the stone be? I want something contrasting, like FW did here with the black armor and tan stone. But I'm not sure what would contrast with Green and Copper?
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No.383721
>>383701
Reds will clash with the green while complementing the copper. I would recommend looking up red marble and going in that direction. Black, crimson and white grain would look stunning.
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No.383753
>>383721
So something like the first pic? Although it would look like a pile of meat, especially if I add blood splatter. Maybe pic 2 might be a good alternative?
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No.383892
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No.383895
>>383753
Like the first but make it darker than that. The second is far too busy and looks like moldy cheese.
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No.384021
Anyone got some hands on time with the new Nighthaunt Gloom/Hex Wraith flame shades? I made a total balls of of my knight of shrouds during malign portents trying for a wet blending effect on the ghostly material but its looking easier to go with corax white undercoat, thin these shades and apply them in a few coats with some white scar highlight/edging instead.
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No.384296
>>383892
Wow, is that a recycle bin for expired servoskulls?
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No.384360
I feel like buying a bunch pf £2 orcs in metal and doing a classic style cluster fuck diorama. I miss when dioramas weren't just two guys dicking each other
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No.384370
>>375345
no but that is pretty dang cool
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No.384477
>>384296
would like to imagine it's a floating multi-skull servitor for holding lodes-a-data. tbh I just like building things from random bits I have, trying to come up with a story for it as I go.
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No.384479
>>384477
Could explain it as an experimental hologram recording auspex. By precisely scanning every bit of the full EM range it can build a perfect hologram of whatever it looks at, inside and out.
Really nifty, and potentially heretekal. Perfect for the discerning inquisitor. Maybe call it the Arauspex, after the old fortune telling of observing entrails. Would have said Haruspex but that's the tyranid that vomits out its innards like a sea cucumber.
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No.384493
>>384477
Or you just go with the obvious
>Khorne faggots stole a bunch of holy skulls to build a monument to summon some demons so the Imperium is getting them back in order to prevent the ritual.
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No.385299
What are some good bits to use to gussy-up a Night Lords vehicle? I'm not looking for anything overtly Chaos. More a "Pre-Heresy," look. But not a "100% LOAYL FUCK OUR CRAZY PRIMARCH!" look.
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No.385315
I started getting back into painting again after stopping when I quit playing WH40k. I'm now working on my D&D miniatures for personal characters although I'm thinking if I get decent enough to either provide painting services to people or buy models and sell them as painted. I feel though I got to get a lot better before I really started doing that.
The first pic is the beginning model I painted. As is obvious I had totally forgot about thinning my paints which really came to light when I started painting my second model and the face came out horribly even after I tried really hard to be very precise.
I started working on another model which is a test run model to get down what I want to do when I paint the model I actually want to use for my character. Any comments or critiques are appreciated. I'm using army painter paint to do this if anyone knows how that rates in paints.
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No.385497
YouTube embed. Click thumbnail to play.
>>385315
Your second model's face isn't beyond recovery. The problem is that the face really has no depth. To achieve depth, consider a shade and a highlight to compliment your base color with analogous harmony. Another approach is to use a brown-redish wash/shade and a highlight. There are plenty of youtube videos on the subject.
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No.385665
Finally started working on a box of Scouts that I'd had sitting in my backlog for years. I made a few small alterations to them- I sculpted extra shin/knee armor and thigh pouches to balance out the bulk of the pistol holsters. I also added small spacers between the upper torsos and legs to give the hip pouches and grenades a little room to breathe. The two armless ones will be equipped with shotguns, one held low, at the hip, and the other shouldered and ready to fire. As of now they've been given a full coat of black primer followed by a partial coat of 50% gray primer from a high angle.
The Land Speeder has been done for a few months, but I've only just gotten around to photographing it.
The Inquisitor Lord is converted from a Termi captain. I sculpted a mustache and dignified receding hairline, and substituted in an Inquisition shoulder pad from an old Terminator squad. I also resculpted the rocks he was molded on to look more like broken slabs of architectural stone. The aquila on the base was cut from thin pla plate and the rest of the base detail is just epoxy putty. He was my subject for a 24-hour painting challenge that one of my local shops holds a couple times a year. This is how he looked immediately after the challenge wrapped up. I've since added an Ordo Malleus insignia to the right shoulder and have cleaned up the edge of the base.
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No.386076
>>355553
That's smart. No wonder I never thought of this.
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No.386097
Has anyone here used miniature chain? I'm looking for advice on how best to cut and attatch it to models.
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No.386174
Malifag here again, news of 3rd edition got everyone back the fuck in in my area so i put my warhammer aside to return to muh wierd western game of choice.
Finally found a cheap Rail Golem kit online for my Rail Crew. A Steam Powered engine man was rad as shit but always overpriced in UK stores at least. Got it assembled and finally got some scalpels from a building supply store to shave the extra shit on the mould lines off so it had no open seams. Wish i had that for my Nighthaunts i tell you what. Ended up getting a wooden fence from a train nerd model shop since actual rails are too clean and modern. Flipped it over, cut to shape so the wooden boards look old timey and shave the horizontal ones down so they are thinner and lose their wood effect to form rails.
Great looking sculpt and bigger than a goddamn 40k Dreadnaught as well. Going to be trying some new painting techniques to try and age the metal and give the internal furnace a nice glow.
Though it sounds odd the iron girders giving me pause. I want it to be some dirty/rusty cliche red girder but not sure how to make the metal red without looking like candy or something.
-also people who dont do anything but stick models to a bare base are animals.
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No.386263
>>386097
clippers, thin super glue. to keep it in a shape you enjoy, try and aim the super glue where each link meets.
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No.387494
Check out this sweet business. Only about halfway done but fuck i love this big steam driven son of a bitch.
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No.387541
>>349585
Cool. Where’s the engine?
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No.387632
and my Rail Crew is finished, for now. Not a pro level paintjob but super happy to see i made progress as a painter.
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No.388506
>>349585
If you do comissions and are in the EU I'm interested.
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No.390045
I want to start up an IG army based on my story that links all my armies together somehow. I want there to be rough riders in my army based around ostrich looking bird things like the pic, but I have not found anything that comes close to it. Does anyone have any idea where to buy the bits for these?
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No.390047
>>390045
That's a LOT of scratch building in there.
https://www.wargamesfoundry.com/products/terror-bird
https://www.blightwheelminiatures.com/terror-bird-cavalry-1
Quick google search found me plenty of small time modelers who have done it already. If you want to keep it ostrichy, it'd be faster to pop the head off of a terror bird than to biuld it piece by piece. Besides, ostriches are a chariot beast.
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No.394305
first time painting wh minatures pls no bully. any tips appreciated, especially for how you hold your brushes to avoid fatigue, my right forearm feels like its going to fall off.
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No.394307
>>394305
THIN YOUR PAINTS
TWO THIN COATS
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No.394310
>>394305
Not a pencil anon, needs a touch closer to chopsticks. Loose, yet tight.
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No.394311
>>394307
ok,
>>394310
you're right, i was holding the brush like a pencil. do you usually hold the model while your painting it or have it stationary?
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No.394325
>>394305
THIN YOUR PAINTS
Other than that, decent job. I don't see any overrunning or splodges anywhere. Looks like you managed to keep the colours from running into each other, which I something I struggle with because my hands shake like a 90-year-old with Parkinson's
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No.394381
>>394305
THIN YOUR PAINTS
But if your ever working with thicker paint (thicker meaning somewhat less watered down), pick a direction and keep your brushstrokes consistent. Thicker paint makes it easier for your brushstrokes to show and brushing in multiple directions creates unwanted texture.
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No.397509
Alright, give it to me straight /wip/. I have about 70 unpainted, built, minatures that have been sitting around for about 12 months. Do I harvest their parts and build primarus marines with a mix of older mark armour, or persevere and paint them as they are?
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No.397514
>>397509
Primaris Marines don't use older Mk's. They only use the Brand-New shit the Ad Mech came up with.
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No.397515
>>397514
I was thinking something along the lines of >>333587, >>331998 and>>331565 when talking about combing armour.
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No.397900
I know it's painting 101, but does anybody have general advice for how to get paint out of the pot onto a pallet and properly thinning it? I usually wind up with stuff so thin it sorta bleeds where I don't want it, or so thick I may as well paint from the pot. I'm not sure if I need varying thinness, how to best mix, or what to look for in terms of it. So most of my work is just throwing on a base layer then going crazy with inks and washes till it looks good nuff.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
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No.397924
>>397900
I'd suggest investing in (or making) a wet palette and using a small syringe or pipette to precisely control how many drops of water are going into the mix.
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No.398054
>>397900
I use a pretty typical set of palette tools and an empty eyedrop bottle to hold/measure my thinner. It's usually way less than you think, proportionally perhaps a quarter of the paint or less; a little dab on the end of your mixer and a single drop of thinner can usually last the entire session on smaller models like marines.
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No.398062
YouTube embed. Click thumbnail to play.
>>397900
I'd show you the video, dubsman, but JewTube is verboten here. Basically watch what Duncan does here, only a little-bit of paint is put on a pallette. Also don't leave the bottle open like he has. I'll admit that most of my paint ends up dried out on the pallette, so it's not a big issue; unless the paint you are using is no longer made. I don't know of an alternative since hooktube got hit by google. I'm sorry.
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No.398077
This marks my 2nd modeling/painting project since I decided to get into WH40k a month ago.
Bought 25 Renegades on Ebay. The black and red was how they looked originally. I cut them off their bases with clippers, soaked them for 2 days in SG and then got them down good enough to respray a Zandri Dust base.
I was going for a classic Khaki cultist look but mixed with a more 1930's Diver suit feel, and this is the result. They aren't terribly hard to do as theres not a huge amount of detailing area's but I'm still dreading doing the other 36 of these I still have for the Cultist Squad.
Hows it look?
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No.398106
>>398077
The khaki cultists look like scum from a chaos world that have scavenged together an assortment of gear and arms. They remind me of the ghost people from Dead Money. The other cultists look more like traitor guard that just turned, like something from the battle for Vogen. They're both pretty good, it all comes down to the flavor you want for your dudes.
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No.398799
Finally got around to painting after I spent a few grand on 3 armies. Day one of painting are the two red cloaked cultists. There was a third but it fell off its base. The 2nd day were the three sand coloured ones. I like the two of them with the blue eyes. The third was my attempt at dry brushing and I said good enough after one brush stroke. The 3rd day are the 5 cultists that are sand and red coloured with the heavy stubber. The agrax earthshade is still drying itself out, so they look oily.
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No.398805
Is there a good babby's guide to someone who wants to get into painting minis for non-40k games? Specifically shopping tips? I don't want to get shitty paint or bad quality minis.
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No.398889
>>398799
>Heavy Stubber
>Lug nut hammer
You lucky dog, could never bring myself to pay the upcharge folks want for the Dark Vengeance lads. Did you manage to snag a flamer too? Dig the high-contrast colors, yellow/bright blue lenses are pretty ballsy; might be worth painting a little gradient into the sockets you want to really draw attention to that part of the model.
>>398077
Love the Nurglites, I'm sitting on a squad of Renegades and a Command Unit because I'm worried about fucking them up.
Also hoping someone here could give me a recommendation regarding greenstuff; what's the best way to get thin, consistent lines like the inside of a marine's backpack exhaust or in sonic/plasma weapons? I'm trying to figure out how to best sculpt a Helbrute-sized Doom Siren. Some of my own models included; feel free to point and laugh at the sloppy paintjobs I've poorly hidden in the back rows, critique welcome.
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No.398914
>>398805
There are endless videos on Jewtube.
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No.398918
>>398914
And I trust the opinion of some random /tg/ faggot over some random youtube faggot. I respect you guys.
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No.398937
>>398805
>>398918
There's honestly way too much variety out there in the third party market to recommend anything but judging their models/paint on a case-by-case basis. Vallejo, (other than their primers IMO,) and Army Painter are "can't go wrong" hobby paints. As for babby guides, it sounds dumb, but just paint my dude. Grab yourself some cheap plastic and craft paint to practice with, (hell, even dollar store crap can be good for RPG props,) and slowly start to add effects and techniques once you're comfortable with painting cleanly. The early guys are gonna be a little ugly, sure, but overloading yourself with technical data just means you set your own expectations too high. If I could recommend one thing, though, don't over-rely on drybrushing. It's much easier to learn to layer first and it'll help you gain brush/color control.
Polite sage for rant.
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No.398986
>>398889
Got Dark Vengeance, plus a few CSM squads and Maulerfiend, with an ork battleforce for around the price of the DV box on ebay. I need more cultists, but will probably use guard bits with some WHFB models.
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No.399003
>>398937
Thanks for the advice. I'm thinking a starter pack of paint and brushes should be fine for now and I can just paint bandits until I know what I'm doing. I haven't done any painting in a few years, but I technically have some experience under my belt. Should be fun to get back into it in a new and expensive way.
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No.399076
>>398937
>(hell, even dollar store crap can be good for RPG props,)
This.
>>399003
Pick up some cheap plastic figures from a dollar store and go to town. It hasn't been that long since Halloween, so you might be able to pick up skellies and spiders and shit for super cheap. You can practice painting terrain with whatever ceramic buildings they might have, too.
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No.399083
>>399003
When it comes to tools, there's a saying that goes like "Buy once, cry once" - It means that buying an expensive set of tools or some pricey piece of equipment may make you reluctant or give you buyer's remorse, but ultimately, the higher quality should mean that you never have to deal with the frustrations of shoddy equipment. However, there's kind of a problem with this line of thinking. For one, if you're just starting off or only dabbling in a hobby, it might not make any sense to throw down hundreds of dollars on high end tools and materials. If you don't know what you're doing, spending a ton of money on the good shit™ can put you at risk of making very expensive mistakes.
So, follow >>399076 's advice. Some cheap brushes, some cheap materials, some tiny plastic and ceramic knick-knacks of negligible value will make decent practice until you feel confident handling brushes and paints again. Also, it gives you a chance to practice some trickier techniques.
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No.399136
working on some necromunda gang models i designed and printed myself, i know the painting is bad but anyone got any tips/comments for the designs?
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No.399146
>>399076
>>399083
I didn't think $40 was too much for the initial investment for some starter shit from Army Painter plus some cheap minis. Honestly, I was thinking about starting off painting boxes and props and shit before I moved on to people.
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No.399157
>>399136
I don't know for painting, but for printing you might want to learn some software skills and split the models into parts that will be easy to print/cast. With some sanding and filler primer you can have a smooth surface to work on.
If your budget allows for it, then I would recommend casting as it will give you a longer lasting figure with 100% fill.
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No.399283
>>397509
Your call, obviously. Painting 70 figs is many, many hours of work: that's precious and rare free time that you'll never get back. Don't do it out of a grim sense of duty if you're not psyched about it. On the other hand, there's nothing wrong with marinelets. Those are some cool figures you built; I'm still working on my Dark Vengeance monopose dudes, and I have a great time painting them. All the beautifully painted marinelet armies out there aren't going anywhere, and at some point having one will probably get you old school cred.
From what you wrote, it sounds like your enthusiasm for this project is dead and gone. If that's the case, by all means chop them up and paste their bits onto primaris figs. Don't feel like you have to, though. Paint them if that's what you want. Or box them up and wait for enthusiasm to return. Or sell them on ebay. The only wrong answer is letting your hobby become drudgery; as long as you avoid that, you'll have made a good decision.
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No.399515
Put together some space wolves
>Drill the barrels!
Yes, soon.
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No.399567
>>399515
Might be your camera, but did you drown the neck area with super glue?
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No.399629
>>399567
That's baking soda, I watched Tabletop minions, and he said you could sprinkle baking soda on superglue to make it hold better and fill gaps.
I ended up having to scrape a bunch of it off because it looked like shit. There's still powder on some of the joints, we'll see if it shows after washing/priming.
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No.399693
Another 5 cultists done. I should have spent more time this week to finish them off, but I procrastinated.
>>399629
I wouldn't even attempt that.
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No.399703
>>399693
There's something about that paint scheme that's very familiar. What inspired it?
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No.399751
>>399629
tbh that simple mix works ok as a snow on bases
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No.399769
First tester done. I started out painting orks, switching to primaris was harder than I thought. Having to go back and fix mistakes is a headache.
>>399751
I will never use baking soda for minis again.
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No.399771
>>399769
Not bad, they do look a bit better in the first photo though. The highlights seems a bit strong on the second one. Especially on the hand. I gotta ask how you got that gold/bronze look? Is it black ink over a gold or is it a brown ink over bronze?
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No.399776
>>399771
I'm not sure which one I like more but if i change my mind it's an easy fix.
>bronze look
I started out with bronze, then gold highlights, then silver, then white, lastly very thin gold on top like a glaze. Black ink for recesses.
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No.399782
>>398889
You're the only faggot that I have seen able to make noise marines look above 6/10. I mean, really good, all the other noise marines I've see before are fucking awful, irl or online. Your cultists are also good, greats man.
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No.399784
>>367077
>lamenters
makes perfect sense
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No.399810
>>399693
That's a wild jump up in quality already. They're looking pretty badass!
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No.399844
I just spent almost 2 hours painting some wizkid barrels.
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No.399886
SKULLS FOR THE goldenTHRONE.
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No.400098
>>399886
Dig the beakies. Those guns really pop, too.
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No.400109
>>399703
Red boots from the Wizard of Oz. I just like khaki, red and blue.
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No.400157
Just got these guys finished up.I was a bit hesitant about how the bases would turn out, but it seems to have turned out pretty good overall.
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No.400293
>>400157
Bases look great. Where did you get the pieces from? Looks like they're from tehnolog sprues.
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No.400318
>>400293
I managed to find a Pegasus Hobbies refinery kit somewhere online earlier this year. I snatched that shit up quick so now I have a shit ton of basing material for as many factory style bases as I want to whip up.
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No.400350
>>400098
l disagree. beakies proportions look really weird. l guess it woudnt be so visible i not for that collar
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No.400386
New batch of cultists based and shaded. Will do highlights tomorrow.
How do you guys do your painting? I watched Duncan's guardsman tutorial and am going off that. Base paint the model, shade it with agrax, highlight with base paint and then highlight it with an appropriate layer paint.
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No.400504
Any advice for someone that's looking to paint Iron hands?
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No.400528
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No.400532
>>400386
My painting style is pretty much the same, though I leave off the last step if I'm painting hordes, just to save time.
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No.400538
>>400504
thin your paints.
the only way of going for iron hands is to glue as many bits on them as possible. paintshame is too simple to really need any advice
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No.400553
>>400504
IRON HANDS COLOUR SCHEME
1. Undercoat the model with GW black undercoat spray
2. Drybrush layers of Rub and Buff Pewter to blend up from black to silver. with the silver parts being the most raised areas.
3. A small amount of Tamiya Clear Yellow was added to Tamaiya Smoke and this was airbrushed over the whole model and the model was then left to dry.
4. GW Druchi Violet was then airbrushed over the model in random patches.
5. Tamaiya Clear Green was then airbrushed in patches over the previous two colours.
6. The whole model was airbrushed with a layer of thinned down Tamaiya Smoke and the model was then left to dry.
7. The model was then protected with a coating of GW Purity Seal.
Brass
1. Basecoat with Runelord Brass;
2. Wash with Agrax Earthshade;
3. Highlight with Runelord Brass in striking motions to create a chipped and weathered appearance.
Lenses
1. Basecoat Kantor Blue
2. Highlight Caledor Sky
3. Paint a thin line of Lothern Blue at the bottom of the lens
4. Paint a dot of white in the upper corner of the lens
There, that's the FW formula they used for HH.
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No.400555
I guess this is the part where I post my ugly models so you can laugh at me and eventually give me some advices.
I've never painted minis before, so I grabbed some Wizkid furniture and townsfolk, with some piles of gore as a bonus. I got some basic brushes and the Army Painter starter kit and spent an embarrassing amount of time making these.
I wish I had some glossier paint so I could make the gore brighter, and I learned that with these high detail figures to not bother trying to paint eyes on them because I lack either the equipment or the skill to do so. That Quickshade stuff is nice, but I don't like how it made the barrels shine less. Would it be smarter to apply it more selectively?
Honestly, the only things I'm pleased about are the barrels and shoes on the minis. Probably because they're brown and dirty, hiding my lack of skill.
Anyways, any feedback would be welcome. Just painting these has already taught me a lot, but I'm sure there are things I've done that I'm not aware of that I need to pay attention to.
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No.400556
>>400555
I didn't think of this before, but do you guys think I could just repaint the faces and reapply the strong tone Quickshade wash?
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No.400558
>>400555
>gore
Look up real gore and mimic it. Use darker colours for some parts, brighter for others. Get yourself some varnish (any will do for now, even clear nail polish), and play around with painting it on, splashing it, spraying it by flicking the bristles of an old brush. Also, thin your paints until they become transparent, and play around with thin layers of purple, blue, yellow and green. Apply sparingly for some variation.
>painting eyes
Fuck that shit. If you're feeling brave, you can try starting out with a darker brown, and using a brighter brown/beige for some highlights. Leaving the eye sockets dark will look A-ok that way. Otherwise beige + wash is perfectly fine.
>clothes/boots
Perfectly nice looking.
>Hiding my lack of skill
That's what we're all doing Anon. Even the masters have weakspots they'll try their darndest to distract you from.
>repainting
Go for it. If you end up with thick layers you can strip your mini very easily. Young me was amazed that you could essentially have unlimited do-overs if you had the patience.
In the future, get some minis that really excite you, and imagine you're painting them while they're in the middle of some epic tale. I'm very skeptical of the "paint boring minis for practice" route. I can't tell by looking at the pics, but you should keep it mind that the brush applies paint best from it's side, not the tip.
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No.400559
>>400558
The whole reason I started painting is because I need furniture, NPCs were an afterthought. Thanks for the advice, though. I had no idea, I always tried to get it from the tip. How do you get those nooks and crannies, then?
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No.400571
>>400555
Not bad for your first shot. There's a few areas where your paint either dripped or your brush slopped, but you did alright. You could probably jazz them up a bit in some areas, like doing a wash of black paint to get into all the crevices on those barrels, or varying up the palette a bit more on those gore piles, but you did good.
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No.400578
>>400571
The only place google will take me for this answer is Reddit, so I'll ask you instead: I've already sprayed dullcote on everything except the people - can I really just paint over it and reapply?
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No.400638
>>400559
Nooks and crannies are what the basecoat is for. Also washes and inks.
>>400578
Yes. There are many techniques involving multiple layers of spray lacquer and paint, usually for weathering. Go nuts.
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No.400919
>>365959
Dont paint yellow for your first army.
Start off by trying to paint the item flesh colored. Then work your way into a mustard using milk consistency paint with three or four thin coats before applying two to three thin coats of an actual yellow base paint.
This way that black spray primer you used You are new I know you bought black to prime them.You better have primed those fuckers Will allow you to transition.
As for the pauldrons? Good fucking lucky sonny, I have been painting for about half a decade now and still struggle with checkerboard pattern. It’s not impossible however it is very tedious.
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No.400920
>>376247
I want to try painting these guys however the models are overly complicated looking and sub assembling fragile elven pieces is a great way to kill m motivation for any painting project.
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No.400935
>>400920
They aren't bad really. sub assembly is often just 'paint the guy before mounting him on the deep sea horror' or 'paint the giant cape before glueing to the guy'.
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No.400990
I painted my Nurgle Terminator Lord‘s Cloak, but I think it‘s still lacking in contrast.
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No.401396
>>400919
I used Gray primer actually
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No.401492
So Kill teams popular with friends and the rules look like a 80% Malifuax knock off so i figured i could pick it up quick and bought my first 40k minis since 3rd editon.
i them base coated, washed and semi highlighted and waiting on some glaze in the mail i slopped down some cracklepaint for the night and notice the paint seems to be flaking off almost.
Like i did all i do usually, cleaned, primed, multiple thinned coats and so on. The only difference is these kill team models were this super smooth/shiny green plastic instead of grey. But i've never had this issue with Shadespire figures.
Anyone else had issues with the paint not really taking like it should to kill team models?
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No.401493
>>401492
addendum: its not the cracklepaint flaking off but specifically the Mephiston Red and its a pot i've used on all my deepkin and malfiaux figures picture in posts above. For some reason it almost wanted to rub off in my hands.
-also a friend already asked i got the easy necron green with valejo yellow and hexwraith flame on white. No multiple layers like people recommend with moot green and like 4 paints or shades and glazes.
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No.401494
Alright /tg/ so I really want to get into AoS however of the three factions I am interested in, two of them seem insanely complicated to paint and one of them is just flat out intimidating to me.
These three factions are as follows:
Lizardmen Not calling them Seraphon
The Kharadron Overlords
The Idoneth Deepkin.
The deepkin are my favorite in terms of thematics, I love Marine life. Hell, growing up all of my favorite things were Aquatic ranging from Captain Cutless off of Scoobie Doo, The Big Daddies from Bioshock and the stories of the sunken city of Ryleth from the HP Lovecraft mythos. However, the Deepkin seem insanely difficult to paint to me with just about every model needing sub assembly in order to make them look good, along with the fact that all of the models look incredibly fragile.
Next up is the Kharadron Overlords, these guys really stick to me with their swashbuckling theme as well as the fact that they are Dwarves. I understand they are not exactly in the best place right now and are underpowered however I love the concept of sky pirates. Only thing that worries me about them is how overly complicated some of their models are. Just look at picture related and tell me your eyes dont feel assaulted by sensory overload.
Next up is the Lizardmen. I love the old world setting as I was in the process or painting Bretonnians to fight against my friend’s Lizardmen right when my army got squated. Only real thing about these guys is that I feel abit odd playing what to me
is an oldworld army in this new high fantasy setting. Also I see alot of annoyance dealing with the fragile models much in the same vein as deepkin. It is not quite Nighthaunt levels of fragile however I still am intimidated by these guys. Also I dont see myself wanting to have to pull a CSM 2.0 with my basic warriors being outnumbered by fucking tiny little chaff models like the cultists Skinks
Maybe I should look at fyreslayers?
Anyway, thanks /tg/
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No.401497
>>401494
deepkin are deceptive since GW uses a lot of ways to have dynamic poses that should be top heavy now be based on how they are assembled.
Pic related for example is pretty simple. The dreadmare is a central body that you glue two extra tentacles onto and the 3 spiral around each other and attack to a piece of sunken ruin so the load is spread evenly. You just paint that, glue it to the base and paint the guy and put him and top and then paint his giant cape and creat and glue those to his back.
Most of their stuff is quite 'open' in terms of painting. Most base units are guys holding a bow in one hand running forwards or swinging a sword/polearm. The larger stuff is people riding eels or sharks. Theres not a lot of nooks that are hard to reach so you just paint the humanoids and deep sea life seperate and put one on top of the other.
Meanwhile the kharadon have a lot of detail compared to the simple clothes and bare flesh of the deepkin and a LOT of thier stuff is balanced on little sticks rather than being a clever load bearing sculpt. They are much fiddlier to paint and far more fragile.
Lizardmen are basically the sigmar version of tyranids. Big animal or large animal its still just an animal and you just paint it before basing and its good to go, but they havent had much support yet but are rumoured to be getting a push in 2019 as their lore is changing from 'the memories of ancient warriors made of warpstuff' to 'literal angels made by the old ones'.
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No.401506
>>401497
Seeing things like this worries me as how overly detailed the models are.
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No.401507
YouTube embed. Click thumbnail to play.
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No.401721
I got an early christmas present today from chinamart. Wanted to share it with you guys because it was cute. Also, how do they cast entire sprues like that? Resin quality is superb.
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No.401730
>>401721
Friend, please tell me that chinaman carries MK II crusade armor.
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No.401731
>>401721
>how do they cast entire sprues like that?
By making a mold of the sprue you goddamn idiot
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No.401732
>>401730
Looks like it.
>>401731
Hurr durr
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No.401736
>>401732
Is that site trustworthy?
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No.401739
>>401736
Im not >>401721, but yeah DHgate is okay. Its not so much the site but the sellers. I've gotten ten Mk 2 from there and they turned out fine. Oh yeah, if they ask for Westren Union or some money transfer, then no, avoid it.
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No.401845
I need help deciding what to do for my Chaos Hellwright on Dark Abeyant. I could do both choices here with magnetization down the line, so nothing will ever be set in stone. The model riding the concepts are the closest looking thing to what I have planned and is just a placeholder.
I know I want the Abeyant model from forgeworld on top of spider legs. I have to choose from either the dunecrawler legs or the defiler legs. The defiler legs are much larger than the dunecrawlers and my 200pt HQ will be the size of a baneblade because of it. Alternatively I could put it on the dunecrawler legs and have it be the normal size is should be. Having a large ass model with a long ass name will make it a large target and will draw a lot of fire, which might be a tactical advantage. It might have trouble with terrain and cover. The dunecrawler legs still might make it a fire magnet, but I think a lot of the fear is put aside. It will have less trouble with terrain and cover. Then I have to consider the aesthetics of it all. The dunecrawler is a new model and has a lot of detail, something that the abeyant model also has. It looks more sleek. The defiler model is old and boxy, a noticeable contrast to the abeyant. It could be explained away as heretekal machinations. Enjoy bad photoshop
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No.401847
>>401845
Personally I prefer the Defiler legs. Even if they're less detailed, the boxiness still fits better with the shape of the Abeyant.
As for worries about it fitting into cover, bear in mind that you're talking about a deranged robo-skeleton man riding into battle fully exposed on top of a walking parapet. He clearly doesn't give a shit about cover so neither should you.
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No.401857
I got an airbrush and compressor for relatively cheap, and I'm going to attempt zenithal priming soon. Still trying to collect a few auxiliary supplies, and I have a few questions.
>What brand of primer goes recommended? I have Vallejo black and white and have grey on the shopping list, but maybe there's something better.
<Should I bother thinning down the primer when spraying with it? What kind of fluids or mediums should I use if I do?
>What glaze mediums go recommended? Was eyeing Liquitex, but I'm not sure how glossy it is.
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No.401946
>>401845
Defiler for the spikes. But you should just go with the most obvious choice. Not from F though, fuck that price
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No.401949
Finished up all my cultists. Here are the important ones. Tried getting that burned effect on the flamer. Looks better in person, but still not as good as I wanted. The Red robed guy's face is flesh colour and gold and not very detailed. The hood casts a decent shadow on an already dark face so I don't mind. I like the commissar looking guy the most.
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No.401951
>>401949
The rest of the last batch. Took forever to get these guys painted due to the holiday.
>>401847
You do have a point.
>>401946
I could always make spikes for the Dunecrawler too.
That model doesn't have a spot for the abeyant. I've never bought from Forgeworld and never will
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No.402055
found this on etsy for £15, resin cast. How brittle is resin stuff in transit? because this shit gets my dingding hard but i dont want to buy a box of bent/broken tat
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No.402062
Now that my cultists are done I've made a plan for my Chaos marines.
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No.402090
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No.402091
>>402090
>Views are my own
>Straight up tells someone that Warhammer is 100% theirs and they will do as they please
>Mentions in a different post that Warhammer isn't exclusive to the hobbyists despite the fact that they're the ones that choose to buy the products and fellate them at each turn
Why do I get the feeling that he's the kind of man that would turn into a mad king in those fantasy stories if given the power to rule a country?
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No.402094
>>402091
>Haha, I control the lore, you sad neckbeard
>what do you mean the suits in Nottingham are telling us to fuck off because we’re losing them money?
And that’s how that story ends.
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No.402311
>>402090
>we control the lore
>french speaking
Yeah fuck off. Games Workshop does whatever gets them money. If female marines saw a drop in profits they’d do a 180 so fast his head would spin.
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No.402386
"Finished" my Necron starter kill team and now working on a commander and box of warriors, doing some neat stuff using sliced up sprue as crystals. Kind of happy with the necrons for the tabletop but you can tell my fine detail brushes need replacing and that cracklepaint looks great but honestly its so fragile i think a mix of fine gravel and tiny stone on pve and given a undercoat, wash and some dry brushes would make for a more durable effec.
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No.402400
How boring is this scheme? I tried doing something different but I really want to paint grey marines.
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No.402410
>>402400
If you want to go grey, do Revilers or Relictors.
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No.402412
>>402410
Too deep into the fluff to pick up an established chapter.
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No.402413
>>402400
>we are not dusk raiders, we are a unique and original chapter, the blusk baiders!
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No.402415
>>402413
That's pushing it a bit far.
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No.402479
>>402090
Ive been wanting to do a Jim/Metokur style video on the cringe lords in the hobby and I think this guy just gave me to perfect starting point.
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No.402582
Any good advice for someone with little experience in putting together or painting figures or plastic models?
The most i've done was put together some gundams and glue together one imperial guardsman a few years back.
How do I not fuck up in putting together stuff that requires glueing ot painting.
How do I actually paint the models without fucking up?
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No.402590
>>402582
Watch everything relating to painting and building on the GW youtube channel. Listen to Ducan.
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No.402629
>>402582
Read the instructions and look at the diagrams very carefully. If needed, get a magnifying glass. Also you try cutting out the pieces then "dry fitting," them so that you know where it goes and how you want it to look.
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No.403214
Warhammer World finally got the Kill Team core box back in stock in the christmas sale so i picked it up. Two episodes of best of the worst and i got the two teams cleaned and assembled, the skitarii came together a lot nicer than the start collecting ones that seemed kind of misshapen in comparison. Terrain took forever though. Bloody nice for the price though. From two team boxes and the starter box i got a hell of a lot of 40K terrain to use for a lot cheaper than it used to cost.
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No.403313
>>402090
>I've never met in person a "GW hater"
Confirmed for never playing 40k. GW still has a long ways to go before the fanbase stops despising them
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No.404006
Does anyone here want/need pic related? Its got a lot of info for painting and how to achieve certain effects, etc.
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No.404011
>>404006
I'd take a nice scanned copy. Always good to have more references.
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No.404015
>>404006
i havent seen one of those in a while.
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No.404016
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No.404025
>>404016
Good shit anon. Thanks.
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No.405397
Latest addition to my deep sea elves is this lovely looking fucker. I was expecting it to be another sub assembly thing but honestly they way its put together is a lot of free open space, just gotta wait on my mechanicus grey to arrive.
Also
>tfw i've been kicking enough ass at locals all the fotm cucks are buying up deepkin and copying my list.
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No.405420
>>405397
>mac
I can see your life has been a series of bad choices.
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No.407294
Where are you guys posting your stuff now this place is dead?
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No.407320
>>407294
I've just been sending my friends pictures of my progress since I don't feel confident enough to post here, but I'll nut up and show off the crazy southern Indian barbarians I painted up. I didn't mean for them to be THIS dark, but the one drop rule very much applies to miniatures, it would seem. I tried to roll with it. I could probably put them on the table now, but I think I'm gonna get some more practice in and work on some highlights, everything is just a bit too flat and dark right now.
Of course, criticism is welcomed.
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No.407409
>>407294
nowhere since this place started rapidly dying for no clear reason.
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No.407413
>>407320
You could benefit from some washes. Then a few highlights. The skin almost looks better in pic one rather than pic two.
By the way, what are some good brushes to use for really fine detail? I need something like a one-hair brush for things like text and super thing lines?
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No.407416
>>407413
You're right, the skin isn't as "crisp" as in the first pic. I've never done a real wash, though - I've only been painting on and off for 3 months and I usually use Quickshade once I'm done. Any tips when it comes to washes? I know some people make their own and some people buy theirs, so is there a particular kind or brand I should look out for?
For super fine details, like pupils or the necklace/potion on my barbarian, I use Army Painter's Insane Detail brush. It's probably overpriced, but I haven't really got any idea what I'm doing. It works, but I probably need more brush control to use it properly.
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No.407451
>>407416
For washes you want to go with something simlar to the tone of the skin. I can't make any particular recommendations for which to use. Usually you just apply it to the area you want washed. Then you add highlights. Normally, washes tend to be a bit darker than the base coat. If you're up to reading up on painting, then check out the book here >>404016 If its still up.
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No.410579
Almost done base coating 60 base gobs for my new army. After this 15 fanatics, 7 HQ's, a mangler squig, a loonshrine, the endless spells and 60 squigs to go.
But at least it stopped me spending while i have the backlog.
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No.410842
Should I thin my paints more?
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No.410853
>>410842
Why would you ask a question you already know the answer to?
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No.410887
>>400553
Do you have the complete master list of all the schemes? Really looking for the IW, TSons, Word Bears and White Scars.
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No.410892
>>405397
Gimme your list fagg
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No.411161
>>410887
I don't think I have white scars.
WORD BEARERS
1. THE MODELS WERE UNDERCOATED WITH GW BLACK SPRAY
2. THE MODELS WERE DRY BRUSHED WITH RUB AND BUFF PEWTER, BRINGING THE BLACK UNDERCOAT UPTO A SILVER COLOUR.
3. AIRBRUSH ONE COAT OF CARRABOURG CRIMSON
4. AIRBRUSH 3 THINNED COATS OF TAMIYA CLEAR RED
5. AIRBRUSH 1 COAT OF CARRABOURG CRIMSON
6. SILVER – BASECOAT WITH LEADBELCHER
7. WASH WITH NULN OIL
8. HIGHLIGHT WITH LEADBELCHER IN STRIKING MOTIONS TO CREATED CHIPPED AND WEATHER APPEARANCE
9. HIGHLIGHT WITH IRONBREAKER
10. BRASS – BASECOAT WITH RUNELORD BRASS
11. WASH WITH AGRAX EARTHSHADE
12. HIGHLIGHT WITH RUNELORD BRASS IN STRIKING MOTIONS TO CREATE A CHIPPED AND WEATHERED APPEARANCE
IRON WARRIORS
1. AIRBRUSH WITH THINNED LEAD BELCHER/ IRON BREAKER (50/50 MIX)
2. AIRBRUSH FROM TOP OF MODEL WITH THINNED RUNFANG STEEL
3. APPLY A COAT OF PURITY SEAL
4. WASH WITH THINNED AGGRAX EARTHSHADE
5. DOT RANDOM SPOTS OF BURNT UMBER OIL PAINT OVER THE MODEL AND THEN FLOOD THE
MODEL WITH DOWNWARD STROKES OF PURE WHITE SPIRIT, SO THAT THE OIL PAINT ALMOST
COMPLETELY RUNS OFF THE MODEL, BUT STILL TINTS IT AND STAYS IN THE CREVICES.
6. YELLOW CHEVRONS – PAINT WITH AVERLAND SUNSET BASE, THEN OVER PAINT WITH YRIEL
7. HIGHLIGHT WITH FLASHGIT YELLOW.
8. GLAZE WITH CASANDORA YELLOW AND THEN WHEN THIS IS DRY WASH WITH AGRAX
9. APPLY BURNT UMBER OIL PAINT IN SAME WAY AS PART 5 ABOVE.
Thousand Sons
Red armour colour
Base coat of Mephiston Red followed by a highlight of Evil Suns Scarlet. This is then shaded with a couple of thin washes of Carroburg Crimson.
Gold
Base coast of Balthasar gold. This is then highlighted with a mix of Balthasar gold and Auric Armour in a 25/75 ratio. This is followed by a further highlight of Auric Armour and then finally with a mix of Auric Armour and Runefang Steel in a 50/50 ratio.
Bases
Basecoat of Dryad Bark which is then drybushed with a 50/50 mix of Tallarn Sand and Administratum Grery.
I think you can google the Whit Scars one. also each one has a GW paint version and a non-GW paint version.
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No.411173
YouTube embed. Click thumbnail to play.
>>375829
Here's a good video covering the topic, it's focused on Persepolis but it has some examples from around the world, around the 18:15 mark it touches on aesthetics of different eras, and how each generation would paint statues to their liking.
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No.411192
>>407294
>>407409
/tg/ has always been slow as shit.
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No.411205
How do I fall in love with painting again? I have over 100 unpainted minis ready to go, but I just can't bring myself to stop shitposting and paint.
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No.411208
>>394305
i thinned my paints this time.
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No.411264
>>410892
EELS
ITS ALL FUKKIN EELS
WELCOME TO 2019
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No.411272
>>365959
Use a white base coat or a more tan-ish yellow. My little brother painted yellow tattoos on his Orks, it goes better if it's applied over two or three coats, but if you want a solid sunburst yellow, there's very few ways to not make it shit.
>>367077
Paint your guns with a metallic paint, use a white basecoat if you want your yellow to look brighter. Transfers may be your friend as far as hearts go. Lastly, apply yellow as a wet layer rather than trying to drybrush it. Drybrush to pick out highlights, not as a base coat.
>>371417
Looks like something that the old Midnight Blue would look nice on, but they ended that run because the sheen was considered a failure of the mix.
>>404006
It's a damn shame those paints don't exist anymore.
Where's my Midnight Blue you fucking faggots.
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No.411567
gib feedback, will post better pictures later, still new to the painting of miniatures
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No.411576
>>411567
looks good to me, what did you think of mine>>411208
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No.411580
>>411576
your paint looks a little thicc
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No.411594
just found all my old warhammer 40k from childhood in the attic
and am looking to paint them, but i have a bunch of units to
paint that i dont know the "identity" of.
It isnt that many its, like 15 at most and i think they might be chaos marines which is what i am looking to get into.
Any book for this or someone who can help me identify these couple of units?
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No.411613
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No.411616
Just finished up my Renegades and Heretics marauder squads except for 4 guys with missing meltaguns. I'll be getting those done when I get the bits. A little more cleaning and barrel drilling and they'll be ready to prime.
These guys use the Hereteks specialty.
>>411594
>>411613
2 front left are warhammer fantasy models. The rest look like 2nd edition. The black models up front look specifically Chaos, while the rest look like filthy loyalists.
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No.411648
>>411272
Maybe you could try coat d' arms? I think their stuff is the same as GW's. Or at least, that's what I've been told.
>>411613
Those look like Space Crusade models. The red and yellow ones are space marines. The black ones are chaos marines. The other two that are on square bases are warriors of chaos from fantasy.
>>411616
>Tech-thralls as heretics.
>Flamer converted into shotgun
Doing gods work anon.
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No.411704
>>411648
>>411616
Theyve gotta be space crusade cause i also have some of those orcs and goblins. Happy that the two badass ones are chaos marines.
ty anon and anon
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No.414076
I'm back, and I bought a couple of washes since the last time. The flesh wash, in particular, was very helpful, especially on those barbarians I did earlier. They actually look like dark-skinned people instead of elves or something with an extra weird skin color.
I'm not going to lie, I spent more time with the archer than the pikeman in these pictures, but I was using the pikeman as practice first, anyway. I much prefer the colors on the archer, I think. I tried to do some pupils, to moderate success. It doesn't look bad on the table, but up close things look a little muddied. I guess I just need to work on my brush and paint control.
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No.414115
I just tried blue stuff to do some small cloning, and oh fuck how good it was. Even if it was my first time it was delightful.
I'll try to get cheap stuff to make clones instead of green stuff just to see how it works. I can see whole miniatures cloned with some efford.
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No.414156
>>414115
>I can see whole miniatures cloned with some efford.
Post your results if you try it out. I'd like to see how well that turns out.
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No.414197
>>414156
I just did my second experiment and it didn't go so well this time, but I believe it was because the green stuff was sticking into my fingers and couldn't press it well into the mold. It can be possible, but incredibly hard.
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No.414240
Any good guides or tip for how to put together IG stuff and paint it?
What do you use to glue them? Do you paint or glue first? Any good tips for not fucking up?
Also, how do you get a pewter commissar to stay on the base?
I have a few boxes of stuff and I only put together one dude in the 4-5 years i've had them. Have more time to put them together now, but i've been hesitant about it since I have very little experience putting together models aside from a few gundams and no experience painting them. I feel like i'll just fuck it all up.
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No.414247
>>328790
I just dry brush all my models with white to get an extreme effect...what do you guys think about that?
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No.414255
>>414247
Sounds like that'd clash with most paint jobs to me. Are you only painting skeletons or something?
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No.414256
>>414255
>skeletons
I don't paint models that are too scary.
Yeah that's what I thought first but somehow it works. it just creates really really harsh effects, I can post my sentinel later for example...
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No.414258
>>332037
If I'd play or start Space AMrines I'd just use the Primaris bodies and use classic SM helmets or even beaky (because beaky rules)
so just classic SM with new nice bodies?
How bout that folks?
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No.414286
>>414258
You could try. No one is going to stop you. Hell, post pics so we can see if beakies redeem primarines.
>>414247
You should show us an example.
>>414240
There should be a "guide" on the back of the box. No one paints the parts while they're sill on the spure. Pewter commissar should have a metal tab under hgis feet, that goes into a base that has a slot cut into it. If you don't have a slotted base, or you cut the tab off, you're kinda screwed.
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No.414303
>>414240
>how do you get a pewter commissar to stay on the base?
Drill, pin and superglue.
And yea you will fuck up, but it's only guardsmen anyway. Consider getting one of those boxes of 4 cheap snapfit guardsmen to experiment paintschemes on.
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No.414351
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No.414356
>>414351
>That pose
You're right about the white paint though, does look pretty good.
Why no wash? Does it not work with the painting technique?
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No.414357
>>414356
>That pose
Yeah I know - I tried to have him standing in a "dynamic" pose. Don't know if it works or if he just looks dumb this way.
>wash
I am not so much of a washer to be quite honest. Never really got the hang of it.
But I'll try washing the next sentinel I do though.
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No.414358
>>414357
I pictured there being a lot more white on the mini when you first posted, but what you've got there looks pretty good. Kinda reminds me of old latex paint chipping off of drywall when I really look at it, though.
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No.414361
>>414358
Thank you anon.
It really highlights the edges and give the thing a weathered touch.
Next one I'll finish will be a LR
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No.414377
>>414351
Huh, that actually dosen't look bad. Could use a wash though. What color to use though?
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No.414379
>>414377
Washing after dry brushing? Thought one is ought to do it before?
I'd use something green-ish or brown-ish.
Can I just water down color when I don't have the appropriate wash at hand?
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No.414385
>>414379
You can water down paints but for consistency it's probably better to wait. Devlan mud works with most everything and should be perfect to get that slightly grimy weathered appearance.
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No.414546
>>355553
>Paint.net doesn't really support transparency
Paint.net is perfectly capable of utilizing transparency and different levels of an image in progress
you can layer transparent layers of colour quite easily in paint.net.
I always use paint.net, even at work because a) it's quick
b) easy to use
c) never cared about learning adobe photoshit
anyway, using paint.net is a great idea
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No.414854
I need help /tg/. I've got an airbrush for base coating, but am having an issue with paint shooting out. I'm using the badger 105 patriot and citadel air paints. I've found around 40psi I am able to get some paint out, but it mostly blows air. Every once in a while a large bout of paint will shoot out and I have to hurry and spread it before it drowns the detail. The brush seems to spray better when there is less paint in the cup. What do?
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No.414858
>>414854
>I need help /tg/
Here's a tip: lose the name, fag.
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No.414859
>>414858
Looks like the kender thing is bord wide. Never mind, I'm the fag here.
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No.414861
>>414859
lolaprilsfoolssorandomriteguiz?
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No.414869
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No.414870
>>414859
>I'm the fag here.
No you are
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No.414882
Does anyone have a template of this image?
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No.414883
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No.414886
I started painting recently and am pretty satisfied with my latest 'nid. Still looking for critique though, especially if someone has a trick for painting eyes with more precision, ive been messing them up frequently...
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No.414887
>>414886
That's nice work anon, especially for beginners.
Do you thin your paints? I ask because of the rim of the base...
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No.414888
>>414887
i try to but am not too consistant with it. would the base colour look less rugged if i did so?
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No.414890
>>414886
btw is there anything to do about these ridges? or do i just have to cover them up with paint as good as possible?
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No.414895
>>414888
yes it would look smoother. you could also spray paint the bases witht he base color and then accent wash and dry the sand. or just put on 2 layers of thinned paint, that settles better and gives the base a smoother surface
I first paint the mini and then remove it from the base then I paint the base seperately and then glue the mini back on it.
>>414890
u can cover it with greenstuff or some other stuff, painting over it doenst work well imho. or just leave it as the nids asscrack I guess....
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No.414896
>>414895
>then accent wash and dry the sand
do you mean wash as in shade paint?
and if so what tone do you recommend?
also, will try to take the next two im in the process of painting off their base and paint the bases fully with thinned yellow, havent got a nice colour spray for it. ty for the tips anon.
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No.414898
>>414896
What I do with a base.
Do all decoration with sand stone wood and other shit.
Spraypaint (black/white/base color)
Basecoat in the darkest color I use for the base (if i don't spray it in the base color).
then use a dark shade or mix black/dark color with water and shade it.
Then dry brush with white+color
then carefully finsih of with white dry brush
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No.414899
I've never really painted zombies before, so I just kind of played it by ear. How do they look? I'm thinking about slathering some gloss onto the bloody areas to give it some more sheen. I tried mixing my own skin tone, too, but I've never been able to make one that looks right.
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No.414900
>>414898
with base color do you mean a color you have settled on for the base or do you mean to match the spray paint/undercoat of the figurine?
cause i kind of like using bright yellow for the contrast, but i would like it to look a lot smoother
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No.414902
>>414900
wll you can paint the rim of the base in a brighter color than the overall base yes.
what I meant was that the rim of the base should have the same color as the base color
the base of my sentinel for example >>414351
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No.414903
Sisters of Battle:
Do all the sisters in a chapter do wear the same armour colors or do varieties exist?
I am plannig my SoB and pic related is the color scheme i came up with
is this cannon or wrong?
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No.414917
>>414903
First off, I like your color schemes. The Canoness looks kind of like a lemon-lime soda can, but other than that they look good. The normal sister in particular is pretty nice.
To answer your question, I think that's up to the player. If it's anything like Space Marines there is a bit of variety in colors as they rise through the ranks - I don't have an image handy but the 8th edition book has a table of helmet colors that correspond to ranks or roles in the chapter.
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No.414920
>>414902
i will try this when i start my chaos marines, gonna stick to the yellow on the small nid pack im doing for consistancy - but the base colour makes it look super fking good i gotta admit
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No.414924
>>414895
forgot to ask what greenstuff was, is it some sort of softened plastic u can fill in cracks with?
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No.414932
>>414924
Yes
>>414917
Thanks. The yellow is gold not yellow though
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No.414936
>>414932
Okay, that makes sense. The painter can be a little tricky to get metallic colors correct with. I've decided to post my own variants also, for the Order I'm fluffing right now. Feedback is welcome of course. I don't know how good I am at this. I'm thinking about switching the palettes for the Canoness and Sister Superior but I'm not sure.
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No.414956
>>414936
I linke. What's their name?
The name if mine is Order if the ever blooming tree of the emperor (this the color green which stands for life)
>switching the palettes for the Canoness and Sister Superior
I'd prefer that, feels more natural I guess but do what you like most dude!
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No.414988
Do any of you guys have any tricks for green stuff not to stick so much? and to clean sculpting skulls.
Also to make details. Which is the right tool.
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No.414989
>>414956
It's the Order of Our Fallen Sisters - they're an off-shoot of the Order of Our Martyred Lady but I'm playing up the "sisterhood" aspect. I won't get much more into it here since this is the kind of discussion that should happen over irc or something. Thanks for the feedback, though. I'll consider switching.
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No.414992
>>414956
> Order if the ever blooming tree of the emperor
I correct:
Holy Order of the ever blooming Tree of the Emperor watered with the blood of our virgin Martyr.
Pic related is the banner, how do I translate that on my minis?
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No.414997
>>414992
I'd say just put the symbols on their own in various spots on their armor, leave the whole insignia for actual banners. If you know a way to print transfers/decals I'd advise doing that and add them after painting.
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No.415020
>>414992
Brownish red legs. Green arms and helm. All equipment apple red. Any secondary colors like bolts should also be brownish red.
Insignia should be blood red.
Be lion-mettled, proud, and take no care
Who chafes, who frets, or where conspirers are:
Daemon Prince Makereth shall never vanquish’d be until
Great Birnam Wood to high Dunsinane Hill
Shall come against him.
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No.415026
>>414997
Insignia on the armor will be the tree.
That's easy to recognize.
>>415020
I already have colors see >>414903
The yellow is supposed to be gold and the other colors are white and green
Green=Tree
White= white robes of the martyr virgin
Gold = holyness/saint/emperor
And I think I will do every sister's inquisition symbol red as red symbolizes the blood the virgin spilt during her martyrdom (it is said a demon of slaneesh was defeated who wielded a trumpet which Reed was made of the virgins hymen)
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No.415167
can someone on here who is a 100% certain they know what they are talking about clear up the differences between wash, shade, and glaze for a beginner?
Ive watched plenty of videos and read forum posts etc about it, and they seem to often differ in the opinion of what these things are. Some sources ive found tell me that glaze and wash is the same, others that shade and wash is the same etc. It would be a huge help to just really have it cut out for me, cause researching this on my own every time i think im coming to a conclusion i find a source that tells me otherwise...
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No.415490
Aprils white dwarf leaked.
When you see it.
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No.415491
>>415490
Also this, you ready for the GW licensed air compressor age?
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No.415505
Painted this crummy mini with some pots I had to practice before doing important jobs. Other than a more steady hand, thinner paints, smaller brushes, and of course practice, I don't know what I should do to improve. Do any anons have advice/comments? This is the first thing I have painted so please be gentle.
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No.415507
>>415505
Try looking up how other people would paint red skin. Its kinda flat. Some of the paints look like they've run together? Painting isn't really something you do super fast. Put a layer on one part, let it dry, maybe even leave it for the day? Then come back to it and do the next layer. Also, maybe have more than one thinned layer of paint? A typical coat is often more than one layer of thinned paint. So, yeah, thin the paint then apply it. It will then look partially painted. Then you do the next coat and so on. If your hand is really unstead, then you could try varrious ways in bracing your hands and wrist. If that isn't enough, you could try to slow your heart rate down a bit when you paint. Shit, some people who do super-fine detail will often hold their breath when they paint.
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No.415508
>>415507
This guy is saying it's shit.
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No.415509
>>415507
Thanks. I'll take that all into account next time. I did rush it a bit, which is part of it I'm sure. Also, the red paint is one of the GW airbrush paints. I'm not sure if that makes a difference or not but it was what I had so I used it.
>>415508
Right, which is why I'm using lesser minis for practice.
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No.415584
Anyone know what these capes come from?
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No.416226
>>411616
First renegade marauder painted. Also some regular militia.
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No.416234
>>416226
Looking good. Drill your barrels
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No.416970
>>416226
Started painting my grot army. I tried 4 different colors for their skin in order to have some variance. The difference is subtle and not very visible from the other side of the table, but I might try contrasting it better.
Also the Spiritstone red works great for the eyes. It's exactly how the books describe them.
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No.417339
So i got my monpoc figures and after a lot of sanding, filing and washing that i usually only do for forge world i primed them and it made this sort of bleachy, speckled pattern on the large wide areas.
Bad picture but you can see it on the large shoulders of gorghadra, does PP just use shit resin?
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No.417495
Painted one of the new Nightvault warbands and tried to emulate GW's official paintjob and on the weapons that was fucking impossible with my shit skills and fine detail brush starting to collect paint at the tip. Still happy with them, just need to do those weird seed things on the stomach.
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No.417522
>>417495
They look just fine to me. And the thing about GW's offical paintjobs - Highlights EVERYWHERE. Like 50% of 'Eavy Metal painting classes can be summarised as "We highlight everything".
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No.417583
>>417522
I think they're designed to show off the sculpt (the thing you're buying), not the paintjob or even the overall effect. So they go for loads of edge-highlighting to accentuate the detail, and not so much subtle blending or freehand, for example.
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No.417587
>>417495
what the hell are they supposed to be. are they ghosts or treemen? somebody needs to kick their design lead up the ass and remind zer of thematic consistency.
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No.417588
>>417587
>what the hell are they supposed to be. are they ghosts or treemen?
Yes.
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No.417825
>>417583
That's a very even-handed way of looking at it
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No.417947
>>417587
When the Wood Elves all died when Fantasy blew up they reincarnated as Dryads as the new forest spirits, some of them have ghostly forms reaching out from the bark "That resemble their ancient ancestors from the world that was". They are called 'Revenants' and are basically Wood Elves so tied to the forests that they couldn't reincarnate as elves but tree people that look kind of like elves.
so to answer your question: Yes.
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No.418186
Trying my hand on rusty grot vehicles. Excuse the blur.
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No.418249
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No.419277
Tried my airbrush for the first time on some Squigs. Simple but boy did it eat through a pot of GW air Khorne red fast. But i guess 3 kits and the major body of a behemoth in 10-12 minutes ain't bad. I bet for shit like Poxwalkers of Flesh Eater Courts this shit is a godsend for a quick tabletop job.
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No.419356
>>419277
Yeah the air paints go quick. Did you start with a black primer or white? White should take less paint and may make the paint last longer. I've made a mistake in making everything black and I go through half a pot for one large model.
Trying out zenithal highlighting on my forgefiend. Did the shading normally afterwards and a filter spray to bronze the silver, followed it up with a quick spray from above again. Brushed on the blue glaze in the recessed areas. Plan on doing another thin spray from above using runefang steel when everything is done. Might do the flesh pink following Duncan's pink horror tutorial.
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No.419420
>>419356
I'm trying to paint faster and post more to keep /tg/ in the top ranks, but I don't want this to be my fucking blog. Fiends are surprisingly easy to paint when you have an airbrush to do the initial work.
Also why the fuck does GW not have a yellow gem paint?
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No.421176
I'm getting over the flu and wanted to shake off the boredom with a few easy projects. So i started on my Malifaux leftovers before 3rd hits and a nice GW endless spell for a marker i'm using in something else.
I'm working on a swamp base for the first time and got a small pot of vallejo still water, anyone know if i can mix it in a cup with some GW shades?
Also found a nice easy way to make aged metal thats not the all over leadbelcher with a rust drybrush alone method recommended for most amateurs. I dont consider myself a good painter at all but this method makes for a far less uniform boilerplate look even my untalent ass can do.
>chaos black primer
>1:1:1 abaddon black, hashnut copper for darker, balthasar gold for lighter and vallejo gold base
>watered down weak nihilak allover wash
>heavy leadbelcher drybrush
>nuln oil wash
>ryza rust drybrush lightly
>1:1 lahmian medium and nihilak pxide wash on joints and bolts at random stippled stress points.
not award winning results but if you can't paint at all thats just basing, washing and drybrushing and looks better than some stuff that gets into edging and even wetblending and stippling stuff like typhus corrosion.
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No.423715
>>338028
>>333111
yeah that's why I grab what I need and immediately shut my lids
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