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File: d12652fe69daafe⋯.jpg (185.95 KB, 800x531, 800:531, swiss_alpine_house.jpg)

534dea  No.65327[Last 50 Posts]

housing is a political issue, house ownership is a political issue,

ITT-house diy, all kinds of diy since diy is implicitly white.

____________________________
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534dea  No.65330

File: 22d4c0ff3ad7eb7⋯.jpg (671.66 KB, 2457x2873, 189:221, housepill.jpg)

infographic from old thread.

also, you can contact me on

housepill et proton dot com

if you want advice on buying, selling etc. you dont want to discuss here

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534dea  No.65331

File: e80c0b354608f00⋯.png (374.81 KB, 835x419, 835:419, osb_apartment_block.png)

File: ead97408597e1cb⋯.jpg (223.47 KB, 900x1200, 3:4, osb_shack1569997065773.jpg)

File: 5eff4079cd33fee⋯.jpg (113.38 KB, 640x360, 16:9, america_tornado_osb_shitsh….jpg)

File: 45a66e6bfeea5b5⋯.jpg (121.29 KB, 1024x664, 128:83, osb_mcmansion_amerimutt_st….jpg)

File: 509cc7cdceaeb8b⋯.jpg (578.21 KB, 1247x831, 1247:831, osb_mcmansion_fire_and_tor….jpg)

this is bad and can be avoided

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534dea  No.65334

File: 7511b73c0cc2d71⋯.jpg (424.71 KB, 1200x1669, 1200:1669, diy_wood_beam_joints_log_h….jpg)

File: 29aad9634ea9c67⋯.jpg (275.35 KB, 1200x900, 4:3, stone_house_georgian.jpg)

File: dca69d5c06b87d5⋯.jpg (3.62 MB, 4032x3024, 4:3, americana_brick_house_ston….jpg)

File: a30649af941fb3f⋯.jpg (79.21 KB, 600x450, 4:3, house_timber_wood_joinery.jpg)

this is good and can be more affordable than people think

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534dea  No.65337

YouTube embed. Click thumbnail to play.

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aaefc1  No.65402

YouTube embed. Click thumbnail to play.

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86917f  No.65415

YouTube embed. Click thumbnail to play.

>>65327

It's important to choose a good location. The house should be preferably positioned in an alley and on an elevated surface, further (not too far) from the rest of society. It's essential to have an access to fresh water, but also to stay safe during floods. Military manuals are good sources of information regarding building a shelter and survival off the grid.

It's been much harder to live off grid in the past, but today, with the use of modern technology, it's easier take care of your estate and get access to necessary high-quality materials.

It's possible to build at least a partially self-sustainable housing that is more resilient towards large-scale disasters which will completely devastate people in the cities.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?

v=z6HNfMBgnZ0&list=PLLLrkJ7BrZFjmUs0uzmQIIdVbvD8-NYlk

https://archive.org/details/military-manuals

http://www.readyforanythingnow.com/Survival%20Manual/TOC.htm

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f3a6a8  No.66386

I cannot explain how thankful I am for you for opening my eyes to this. These are million dollar posts.

With every anon that is encouraged (including me) to DIY house the less shekels the gibernment gets! Not only we save possibly hundreds of thousands per person/family, we can sell it for even more, buy bigger property in a better place, rinse and repeat as an income or give to family or use the money to buy some shit place to give out for rent as basic income. There are so many opportunities by bypassing the insanely pricey construction, the materials and the restricting bureaucracy it's insane. It only takes some good friends or family and some good times together to make it happen for virtually free.

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343f62  No.66419

>>65331

5th pic - what kind of shitty neocon state would let houses be built so close?

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7bec69  No.66447

File: 40d4c145dbf95bd⋯.jpg (143.93 KB, 1000x603, 1000:603, earthship.jpg)

Any opinions on Earthships?

Personally, I quite like the goal (self-sufficiency, independence from the system), but the people behind it seem too stubborn about certain details. For example, the back wall of the Earthship is constructed from tires with dirt rammed into them, which is an enormously labor-intensive process for a wall that seems only marginally better. I'm also

I'm not sure how well they age; I know some of the prototypes had problems with roof leaks after a few years, but this may have been fixed.

>>66386

> sell it for even more

I'm not so optimistic; I think most people want a "normal" house

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343f62  No.66489

>>66447

tires - labor intensive but that's also a lot of volume. That takes up the volume of about 2 CMUs. Yeah tires are shitty to work with though. And you have this rounded wall to deal with. Yeah I gradually agree with what you're saying

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534dea  No.66501

File: 2d4c5727da4f41e⋯.jpg (165.69 KB, 1200x800, 3:2, house_adobe.jpg)

File: 11501e771f2eb1c⋯.jpg (233.73 KB, 1300x889, 1300:889, house_alpine_swiss_wood_ch….jpg)

File: bbcfeb19b73cd04⋯.jpg (175.21 KB, 1024x768, 4:3, house_swiss_alpine_wood_4.jpg)

File: d3834bcfd42b525⋯.jpg (303.93 KB, 1200x800, 3:2, house_croatian_shit_shack_….jpg)

File: 7a64e0f93b31892⋯.jpg (611.48 KB, 1024x684, 256:171, house_standard_europe.jpg)

>>66447

>I'm not sure how well they age; I know some of the prototypes had problems with roof leaks after a few years, but this may have been fixed.

They seem promising, but is it an age old tested design (in its current form) and do you have more safer alternatives now? So why risk it?

pic rel are safer and more doable options imo

>>66386

>Not only we save possibly hundreds of thousands per person/family, we can sell it for even more, buy bigger property in a better place, rinse and repeat as an income or give to family or use the money to buy some shit place to give out for rent as basic income.

DIYing by yourself is admirable, but not everyone can do it, buying on old house and restoring it or just buying a used good one is also putting this knowledge to good use. Anything that removes profits from sleazy contractors, saves you money AND lowers waste is good.

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534dea  No.66503

File: 22c9c3c939f5d59⋯.jpg (57.73 KB, 610x484, 305:242, foundations_house.jpg)

File: eb59cc99b02b781⋯.jpg (21.68 KB, 430x269, 430:269, foundation_fail.jpg)

File: 2da72df097ce646⋯.png (322.17 KB, 1717x1505, 1717:1505, foundations_venice_piers.png)

File: 196b8ad3ff6421d⋯.jpg (18.34 KB, 401x298, 401:298, foundation_pier_and_beam_d….jpg)

File: 1b178db5f675978⋯.jpg (29.09 KB, 653x458, 653:458, pile_foundation_wood.jpg)

>>66447

>I know some of the prototypes had problems with roof leaks after a few years, but this may have been fixed.

no hard roof or overhang so that is expected, dry climates only

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534dea  No.66506

YouTube embed. Click thumbnail to play.

have you noticed how this simple and extremely durable method of building the most important element of the building (next to roof offcourse since "hat and boots" principle) has been lost? Its not only our cultural customs that is declining but technology as well.

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534dea  No.66511

File: 6d7fbbcbd07dd08⋯.jpg (1.09 MB, 2202x1489, 2202:1489, stone_foundations_stave_ch….jpg)

File: 17c85260e816d8f⋯.jpg (32.77 KB, 653x425, 653:425, foundation_materials_house.jpg)

File: a5c50adb39ff7b5⋯.jpg (318.1 KB, 1280x720, 16:9, house_stone_foundation.jpg)

File: d69b16e1b179796⋯.jpg (3.02 MB, 5000x3889, 5000:3889, wood_stave_church_cross_se….jpg)

File: 69c79a4ffa08df9⋯.jpg (265.56 KB, 1280x720, 16:9, stone_wood_foundations_jap….jpg)

dumping. All of these structures were done with primitive mechanic tools and are able to last 500-1000 years, Stave church is from 1200. Not because of expensive chemical McProtectors but simply due to understanding principles of building >>65330

.

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f3a6a8  No.66512

File: a663e7cea39da7c⋯.jpg (2.75 MB, 1272x1920, 53:80, Zerg.jpg)

>>66447

Work has value. If I buy an empty property and sell a property with a proper house with preset average Money per square meter the region has it is profitable especially if you don't have paid workers to do it for you and other bullshit. What the fuck do you mean? Even if I buy a property with a house already built, the housing market in my country is so crazy it will double in years. I can buy countryside property looking in the most beautiful part of the country for 2$ per square meter, because the construction market is absolutely fucked here as there are is a huge lack of skilled workforce and the government will bankrupt me with work tax even for minimum wage lazy workers. Fuck that.

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534dea  No.66517

File: 99a84b0281c29e3⋯.jpg (257.29 KB, 805x710, 161:142, stave_church_wood_12th_cen….jpg)

File: b104e427953e5a1⋯.png (757.25 KB, 1304x1304, 1:1, wood_quality_osb.png)

File: 8de3a125b21a070⋯.jpg (233.51 KB, 1073x1431, 1073:1431, wood_pine_young_vs_old.jpg)

File: f25c0bd560687df⋯.jpg (488.85 KB, 1500x1150, 30:23, wood_shou_sugi_ban_burnt.jpg)

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f3a6a8  No.66520

>>66501

I'm still young and healthy. I have time and I don't want to waste my money on meaningless shit like partying and buying shiny stuff. I would rather be a homeless bum for months and have a hectare of empty land to cut wood for a house. I'll take that any fucking day to the time I've already wasted numbing myself in front of the computer all day. As the wise words say it: "Work sets you free"

I have nothing to lose.

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7bec69  No.66534

>>66501

>Why risk it?

Do any of those houses have integrated water catchment or nutrient reuse? The goals of an Earthship are more expansive than just shelter (though an Earthship is certainly not the only way to go). That said, Earthships seem to be the closest thing to what I'd want (full nutrient, water reuse) that I've been able to find.

>>66503

>no hard roof or overhang so that is expected, dry climates only

Ah, thanks; didn't know. I've only recently started looking into this kind of thing in recognition that there isn't enough time to save enough money to have somebody else do it.

>>66512

Different countries I suppose; I'm in the US where most people want McMansions, and where there are enough of them to go around.

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c3cf7b  No.66539

File: bb0de667ce6130f⋯.pdf (10.17 MB, The_Complete_Book_of_Self_….pdf)

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f3a6a8  No.66553

File: 1cd9d4540584ce1⋯.jpg (359.3 KB, 1920x909, 640:303, scenery.jpg)

>>66534

Excuse my harshness, it was not against you.

>Different countries I suppose

Yes. I am an Eastern Europoor where leftism haven't fully succeeded, YET and all people are white (except the gipsies that are off by a slight tan and a good margin of culture [or lack thereof]). Land is cheap as fuck and people wouldn't even get a loan let alone earn enough to afford mansions. These countries are getting depopulated since anybody worth a damn (everybody young here knows basic english) is going to the west for better wages as you might already know and leaves the country full of ex-commie pension boomers and old farts that vote based on that alone. I looked around and there's 2000m2 land by the most beautiful lake of the country for like 7.5K$. In a small country that has strict borders is a ticket for a safe future. I'm not planning to buy and sell like a happy merchant, just an idea.

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a161e0  No.66705

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCfNcyHyZX9VoY2feVgztBnw

This guys channel is extremely useful if you plan on building a log cabin and you want it to last for over 100 years.

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629342  No.67153

/housepill/ - lost principles of longlasting building

Here is a great thread from 8/pol

http://archive.ph/gjgUN

regarding building and building material.

It has several youtube links that can be accessed.

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061ad0  No.67299

File: e91faa99d2b976c⋯.jpg (10.29 KB, 480x360, 4:3, hqdefault.jpg)

Look into your country laws.

I found out that I can live in pre-made container style houses that are below 20 meters squared without building permit (which is more than enough to live in secluded woods in)

I also found out that my country has a lot of swamp and bushy lands they want to get rid of so they "rent" it to anyone who wants to use that land whilst fixing it so they can eventually 10 years in the future use it for agriculture or building. Both cheap and private.

I am planning this to be my dream home, and it isn't that far off in my income standards.

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c9a956  No.67366

>>66553

I'd like to comment on what you've said and give a few comments about DIY building.

I really don't believe the meme that anyone valuable leaves the East to chase shekels in the West. I have definitely seen plenty of Eastfags move West for shekels though but I can't say the majority of them are because they are hard working, educated and or intelligent etc. In my experience most are simply doing it for the money and are generally not educated (and that I admit is different than intelligence). Some move back or plan to move back and other buy land and build as they work in the West. Others are so demoralised they tell everyone how horrible the East is every chance they get.

On the other hand, there is definitely an issue with population flow to the West. Something that might give perspective is the fact Communism encouraged population growth (as a political tool but that doesn't really matter in this context) so millions of children born that where essentially only born for the reason to get an apartment… or a bigger apartment… or some sort of advantage.

Something positive to say about this flow to the West is that regardless of the quality of the person it's generally (and almost certainly) a benefit to the receiving economy and in some ways an advantage to the remaining population.

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c9a956  No.67367

As for building…

Walls: brick and concrete are the classic style here. The benefits you get from this type of construction are mainly to do with structural strength and resilience. In my area exterior brick is a minimum of 30cm thick and the exterior is typically insulated with polystyrene. I am not a fan of polystyrene and instead suggest BCA at a minimum of 10cm. Also, insulation does not have to be uniformly thick and really depends on the rooms, how much wall space you can give for heating elements, windows area and aesthetics. So, for example if you have a house that almost always has a permanent shadowed wall or side, using thicker insulation there is definitely going to give more advantage than on a wall that receives sun and shade – but this depends on your climate but we are talking about cold Europe here.

Floors: here floor heating is a thing though I personally think it's pretty silly. Insulating (including for water) the exterior foundation can make a dramatic difference to the thermal performance of the house. It's amazing here how many foundations here are exposed and those houses have floor heating. I've seen houses where the internal floor heating is melting the snow around the house because of a lack of insulation (proper execution and or understanding of the purpose of floor heating). If you can't for whatever reason insulating the foundation from the floor is going to give good results but does carry some disadvantages. Prior to placing flooring you should put auto-leveling grout down from 2-10mm thick and make sure you sprinkle some glue down to help the bond). I do NOT recommend thick 3-5cm thick buildups of the floor. I say this for two main reasons: 1. I've seen them executed poorly too many times 2. normally the material mix is wrong and it ends out sandy and you might as well get beach sand in your house. Auto-leveling grout is really hard to screw up and is strong and you're more likely to get a better finish for less money (because you'll use so much less material and don't need a team of 5 guys. This is an important stage for the next… covering the floor. Most floors here are wood and I do recommend that. At least 14mm thick adhered wood flooring… in boards. This in of itself is a insulator and putting heating under it is not a good use of resources. I recommend wood (boards) as they are hard, wear and can be refinished and will last the test of time. Many people here save on the floor and two years later they rip it up and put another cheap floor in. It's stupid. Don't be stupid. I wouldn't put a wood floor on concrete that's less than a year old and with the foundation insulated. The concrete needs to be dry. Also, it's a good idea, if you can afford to… buy your boards many many months if not a year before you lay them and keep them somewhere dry this will help reduce any shrinkage issues.

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c9a956  No.67369

Internal walls: to the exterior should always be solid plastered. People complain about the cost of the material but it's less dense than the cementitious renders, breathes beater, reacts better to water damage, is less dense and sets harder. Unless of course you have bathroom and your options are limited to adhesives or cementitious render. You'll find that plasterboard is not much cheaper overall than solid plaster but… plasterboard is a completely inferior solution in most areas. So you don't break the bank on solid plaster the straightness and squareness of the brickwork is very important. Please check and re-check the walls as you bricklayers work. I have seen horrors because people just don't pay attention and think they can fix it with render. I've seen a house that had 12cm of deviation in a length of wall… and the solution was solid render. It's an expensive waste. Don't be stupid. Also, Please remember to give some water solution (I don't know the english name for it) to the wall prior to plastering to insure good adherence. I personally like to put a small foam band to separate the plaster from the floor).

Something many people overlook is appropriate hydro-insulation of their foundation, foundation insulation, internal floors and walls to foundation and other areas. These details will make a huge difference to the house.

Roof: you need to think about what sort of roof you have or want to have. I strongly recommend a ventilated roof so it should be: tiles, battening (air gap of 6-8cm), vapour barrier, 25mm thick planking, roof structure. For roof structure I recommend wood – large pine sections like 10x15 for rafters and anywhere from 15x20 to 20x50 for ridge beams. Edge beams should be at least 15x15 and bolted down with at least 12mm bolts into concrete. This all depends on your spans and loading. I recommend you stay away from too shallow a pitch and pitches over 30 degrees. Probably 25-27 degrees is a good range in moderate snow areas and also you need to think about the maintenance of your roof and the lower the pitch the easier it is to do. I also recommend, if you don't have time, the main ridge beams and edge beams to get engineers wood (this might be expensive in the West but in the East it's not). However, if you have time I strongly recommend buying wood at least a year before you plan to use it to let it dry. Stack it at least a foot off the ground level, build your pile with spacing sticks and cover with some protective roof (I just use plastic sheets.) Also, if you can buy wood cut during winter this is awesome. When you buy wood go to the yard and look… sometimes they have oxidized timber that's obviously sat around unprotected for a while but it will be dry – I've had good luck with buying this type of timber. Also, once the timber frame and planking is done get is fire proof sprayed – I recommend you ask the coloured variety so you know if you've missed somewhere. Let it dry out and then put the vapour barrier on and finish up your battening and then spray the battening. This is tedious but the correct way to do it (in my eye).

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c9a956  No.67370

Roof insulation: In this case (you choose the above roof style), using foil type insulation is not really any advantage and a waste of money. Just use good quality glass wool or rock wool. I actually recommend glass wool over rock wool because generally it's so much cheaper and with a good roof cavity it will perform about the same… but you can go so much thicker and this makes for a real advantage. I recommend a minimum of 20cm (buy 2 x10cm and overlay – this is often cheaper than buying a single 20cm roll). Preferably 30-40cm should be used and then at least a 5cm air gap to the plasterboard making your internal ceiling. My only concern with glass wool is fire. Sure, rock wool is better in fire but I've found to combat this disadvantage the use of thick fire-rated plasterboard (12-16mm) is good. If you are really concerned about fire overlay two 12mm boards (this is serious fireproofing).

I really could write a lot more.

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b8ff36  No.67497

If you are building your own home I'd recommend using 4x4s for all studs instead of 2x4s (only when needed perhaps). All wood cured and treated of-course. If you desire thicker walls for bullet-proofing w/ sand or gravel use 4x6s for the studs instead. As for the internal walls instead of using drywall or plaster I'd use treated plywood instead, you can screw them into the thick studs using 2.5" decking screws and it will hold very well. You can still paint over it or put up wall paper and it would be much more sturdy! Hanging up pictures wouldn't be much of a headache either lol. That would make your home incredibly more weather resistant and sturdy. Also depends on how the foundation is built too. The thicker the concrete foundation the better and make sure you use more than just concrete to help seal off potential for leaks as cracking eventually occurs (there are special panels and materials out there to secure-harden-protect foundations which reduce weathering. I would also recommend either thick wool and/or R-35 insulation for both the walls and attic insulation. As for roofing rafters and ridge beams I'd have to say it's up to you what kind of wood you want depending how sturdy you want the infrastructure to be (I wouldn't go with pine myself but I'm a DIY fortification nutjob). As for entry doors I'd first fortify those doorjambs right off the bat with galvanized steel pallet shelving beams with 3" stainless steel screws opposite sides of where the strike plates and hinges would be installed of-course to fortify the whole damn doorjamb. As for the doors typical solid wood-core steel plated doors would do (and all the works like long strike plates, extra deadbolts, katy bars and tough re-enforced hinges). For the windows I'd buy the hurricane-resistant / shatter-proofed windows. During construction you could mess with doomsday scenarios boring holes through side studs, adding stainless steel bolts if you ever wanted to mount anything against the windows for SHTF fetishes. One thing I would never add to my blueprints are glass patio doors (fuck those seriously). As for floors layer three or four particle boards and use 4x4s for the studs. Then you can deck it all out with whatever you like (carpeting, floorboards, plastic tile etc). As for the exterior I'd do similar to the interior walls only put up some aluminum siding covering the treated plywood from the outside to make it look like a normal home. I've always hated re-wiring or wiring up new electrical cords and all the work it involves with installing the right circuit breakers, making sure I have the proper gauge wiring etc. so I would hire some professional to do that for me (you do NOT want to ever fuck up electrical wiring, oh the horror stories out there!) So that's my two cents if that's worth anything now days.

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9baf77  No.67595

(((Housing regulations))) are the biggest inhibition to society since the discovery of propaganda.

In California you have the pay the ducking government $50k to just get permission to build a fucking bean shack.

If you install solar the (((regulations))) say it must be tied to the grid so you still lose power when the grid goes down.

When you start a new project not in the city, the new (((idea))) (((they))) thought of is to require you to build a fucking lake that is usually bigger than the area you were building because even though you pay taxes, you aren’t allowed to use the storm drains. For example you have project that’s 1/2 acre of area, the gov will require you to have another half acre which will be a GIANT FUCKING HOLE. THAT NEVER GETS FILLED UP, LIKE WED NEED A FUCKING BIBLICAL FLOOD TO JUSTIFY THIS SHIT.

(((HOUSING REGULATIONS)))

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c9a956  No.67758

>>67497

The Idahoan Show has a great video of bullet proofing stud walls with gravel “Testing Gravel Armor (TIS239)”. He does make a point about the studs not being bullet proof so… I don't know what would be a good solution for that other than some steel plates.

As for not using pine - in the past hard woods were popular, more abundant and cheaper. I've seen frames set like steel – super tough. If you have the money for it sure go for it but my opinion is pine is fine though there are different types of pine and strengths. My general opinion is that (in the West) pine used now is not the pine for 15 years ago – it's definitely weaker. The sort of pine used where I live tends to be massive and most of it is naturally dried (though most people are impatient and put uf green wood). 10x12cm is the typical minimum size so it's not that much bigger than your 10x10cm recommendation though the difference is that's for roofing and the pitch is normally 60cm. Ridge or mid-span beams typically go up to 20x50cm. That size wood in the West is costly. I did receive a tip from an old timer for working with hard wood. He recommended working it while it was green because it's much much easier to put together and let it sit for 6 months in the summer and you will see the frame move. Then set your string lines and shave from the frame where needed. I understand what his point was. I guess what I'm getting at is you are talking about a wooden structure house and frame of 10x10cm – sure it's better than a frame of 5x10cm and three layers of particle board is better than… 2 layers?! Here, a wood house is solid wood logs typically 30+cm round. I've never actually been in a house with a wood floor unless it was a holiday cabin in the mountains and it wasn't particle board either it was solid wood planks. I'm not attacking you but literally the only people that use particle board here are the poorest of the poorest… I mean the poorest gypsies.

Your point about securing doors is very important. Here, windows are typically secured with at least 16cm 6mm shank screws and doors with 22cm (or longer) 6mm shank screws. Here a 5 point lock is standard on a door and many windows are 2 or 3 point lock.

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f0a79d  No.68247

File: 7c56f960a69930a⋯.png (1.71 MB, 1024x768, 4:3, gar_door_fortif.png)

>>67758

>I've never actually been in a house with a wood floor unless it was a holiday cabin in the mountains and it wasn't particle board either it was solid wood planks. I'm not attacking you but literally the only people that use particle board here are the poorest of the poorest

Sure, I can understand that. I live in an older neighborhood in a old small town and my floors are made of 4x4 studs with three particle boards layered on top of one another screwed to the studs. I guess that's just how they built homes back in the 40s and 50s over here? Regardless, I've never had any major problems, it holds the weight fine for the furniture and any guests. [pic was taken before I replaced my garage door with a much more sturdy one, as you can see it shows underneath the floorboards]

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161725  No.68717

>>67595

Cali is doomed get the fuck out while you can

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cc4fbb  No.77807

how hard is building your own little power plant to produce electricity from rain? (area where 20 days a month it rains)

water pushing the mill from a big gutter on top of it

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889846  No.78477

>>66534

>Do any of those houses have integrated water catchment or nutrient reuse? The goals of an Earthship are more expansive than just shelter (though an Earthship is certainly not the only way to go). That said, Earthships seem to be the closest thing to what I'd want (full nutrient, water reuse) that I've been able to find.

Good luck getting approval for that anywhere outside of New Mexico. The original hippy builders chose that state because it had no building codes yet, and land was practically free. Now even New Mexico has them, but they grandfathered in Earthships.

Going with non standard blackwater removal (or in your case recycling) is going to be a pain in the ass legally speaking, and you're far more likely than not to just get denied. You can try doing it under the radar, but that's a big risk for an expensive thing like a home. Earthships just dump it into a gravelly pond, which is fine in a sandy wasteland with no neighbors. In any other place that's a good way to spread diseases. Composting toilets can be built in any home and do work, but require some work from you and are unfamiliar to guests; approval is still tricky, but less so, and at least they're easier to hide.

Also earthships work best in the desert because of the climate. Even in the winter they get plenty of sun. In the North, long overcast weeks mean that even really perfect greenhouses need heating, and windows that don't lose heat are really expensive. This is why the earthshps could be built with recycled glass, but that's not a great idea in the north. If you could rig up an insulation system that covers the windows at night, you might be alright though. Solar gain in the day, trapped heat at night. For that I'd look into Chinese greenhouses (low tech magazine I think) but for a more conventional house European-style window shutters made of insulating foam would be the way to go.

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983a68  No.78497

YouTube embed. Click thumbnail to play.

Anyone know anything about this so-called moon wood/Holz100? The video makes it seem legit and when I briefly looked into it a while ago I didn't find anything to suggest that it isn't. But I don't know.

The gist of it is that harvesting trees at a certain time of the year will yield better wood because of the distribution of sap, and that you can make amazingly high quality and ecological wooden buildings without laminates, chemicals, glues, synthetic insulation and unneccessary nails.

On one hand it sounds too good to be true but on the other hand it's also obvious why the construction industry would not want to be promoting it.

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e169b8  No.78501

The issue is property tax and land prices. and especially building licenses

Otherwise everyone would just live in his own shed and capitalists would be fucked.

People should be allowed to build for themselves!

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fc2c84  No.78511

>>78501

Building licenses are fucked, but property tax and land prices are pretty low in a lot of the US. Just pick somewhere no rich people want to live, i.e. West Virginia, Maine, Arkansas, &c. You can easily get 10 acres of land for <20k or even better, and pay a few hundred a year for taxes

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28147f  No.78512

>>78501

>oy vey goyim it's the CAPITALISTS!

Die.

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4409dc  No.78518

As you shop for land in the US (not sure how this works for the eurofags, sound off) be sure to inquire about the mineral rights. Own all the land below your parcel too, nigger. You must also become an expert in water law for your particular state.

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e169b8  No.78527

>>78511

I don't live in the US.

>>78512

On this site I expect (you) to know (((who))) is meant.

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4242a4  No.78613

File: 112a5ee013ce20b⋯.jpg (283.25 KB, 1200x795, 80:53, house_bridge_stone_wood.jpg)

File: f57fd6498d33a57⋯.jpg (171.25 KB, 1024x683, 1024:683, wood_shrine1555002438289.jpg)

File: 3cea3e2f33552cd⋯.jpg (95.56 KB, 800x532, 200:133, wood_rood_truss_mortise_te….jpg)

File: 3f3038ebde3fbd7⋯.jpg (171.58 KB, 1200x900, 4:3, wood_rood_truss_mortise_te….jpg)

File: a0a2bd17c052e6f⋯.jpg (4.38 KB, 275x183, 275:183, thoma_wood_holz_100.jpg)

>>78497

>Anyone know anything about this so-called moon wood/Holz100?

Ive watched it a year ago, its 10/10, highlights on how many lost knowledge there is and how many things people are doing wrong.

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099da3  No.78640

So how much corruption is there in the architecture business? How rigged is the game? And who is paying for all the "modern architecture" ? Day of the brick when?

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e169b8  No.78644

>>78640

>And who is paying for all the "modern architecture"

The retards who buy or rent the apartments in them.

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ca6647  No.78662

>>78527

On this site we name the jew. We don’t hide behind their fake names. It’s communists who implemented these taxes, because they’re communist precepts, not capitalist. Come on.

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e169b8  No.78665

File: 6587be558f43832⋯.png (487.55 KB, 572x800, 143:200, Marxism_Capitalism.png)

>>78662

>It’s communists who implemented these taxes, because they’re communist precepts, not capitalist. Come on.

>Look at the other side of the shekel. I swear it's not the same shekel!!!

Communism and Capitalism go hand in hand. There are some who claim "the us is communist because communists took over the institutions" and some that claim "china is capitalist because chinks know nothing but money and will cheat everyone for it and china is so very capitalist".

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889846  No.78976

>>67497

>If you desire thicker walls for bullet-proofing w/ sand or gravel use 4x6s for the studs instead.

If you're going to pack your walls with all that dead weight, why not just build with concrete from the start? It's likely cheaper than your rigged up system and is definitely stronger.

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c9a956  No.90373

>>78976

There are many reasons - not all I will cover. The loose gravel/ballast is self healing so that large holes don't remain open and are filled/blocked as a projectile enters. Materials differ but sand with fine gravel is fantastic at absorbing ballistic energy and is cheap cheap cheap. Also, I'm not sure if you've ever seen how concrete walls get made but it's generally out of the scope of DIY and generally in the West is an expensive exercise. I also suppose people that want to ballistics proof their house might be in the country/rural or forest areas. Cast in situ concrete isn't always an option and using local materials can greatly be preferred. Also, this shouldn't be just about ballistic protection but can also be about thermal mass. Also, this is in no way comparable to actual bunkers that have 4-8m (or greater) thick concrete/gravel and roofs and ceiling. This is a recommendation for an individual so cost is typically an issue. I suppose is an individual wanted to make a secure room they should look at building a double brick cavity wall and infilling with high strength concrete and lay rebar or mesh in as you go.

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11a185  No.90418

>>65327

log cabins are inherently best. Insulated, earthquake and small arms fire, as well as fire resistant. durable, long lived and natural

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e6b05d  No.90423

File: 826b48aa71cd1e5⋯.jpg (36.17 KB, 480x360, 4:3, concrete_pump_2.jpg)

File: d77790f3541b746⋯.jpg (312.36 KB, 1000x665, 200:133, reinforced_concrete_house_….jpg)

File: dc0cffbf9f817f1⋯.jpg (67.86 KB, 600x450, 4:3, croatian_shit_shack_red_br….jpg)

File: 9dd90d32d8c7039⋯.jpg (55.91 KB, 600x453, 200:151, croatian_shit_shack_red_br….jpg)

File: b880db5daf3c773⋯.jpg (52.77 KB, 640x427, 640:427, concrete_house154420142774….jpg)

>>90373

>>78976

>>90373

>why not concrete

This is why I dont understand as well. Most Europe builds houses from reinforced concrete (RC), while in USA is extremly rare. Im not saying Europe > USA or some idiotic meme like that but in terms of residential home construction USA can learn a lot form euro practices. RC is earthquake, bulletproof, almost bomproof, very quiet.

There are many downsides to RC as well - eventually steel rusts and cracks, low thermal isolation, hard to repair, but in terms of everyday build its like a pair of jeans, not sensitive and can do most things well.

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d38a28  No.90425

>>78665

>Communism and Capitalism go hand in hand.

How? Just because you posted a straw man picture? How is forced redistribution of wealth, which leads to lack of production to massive shortages to famine and finally societal collapse is hand in hand with free market; a system which offer and demand are in balance and economic growth benefits everyone.

>"Benefits everyone" you say? Are saying there won't be poor people under capitalism?

There will be poor people in any economical system, because people are different. Some are smart, some are dumb, some work more, others work less. But in the end when there's free trade, everyone benefits. For instance, even the poor people in America live better than kings during the middle age. I would even say better than the rich during the 19th century.

>There are some who claim "the us is communist because communists took over the institutions" and some that claim "china is capitalist because chinks know nothing but money and will cheat everyone for it and china is so very capitalist".

America has communist-like polices, but still has a lot free market embedded within it. China has capitalist-like features, but the government is authoritarian and absolutely incompetent, as Coronachan showed us. They rather save their face, lying to the world, buying the WHO and locking people up in their houses and camps for them to starve to death, instead of focusing on solving the problem.

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ceba66  No.90438

>>78497

Eh, this wasn't common knowledge?

My grandfather also told me to always cut wood for anything other than firewood during the waning moon. We've used it mainly in vinyards, for spanning wire for vines to grow on, and we've never had to replace a single one as far as I know, and we've been doing this since my great-grandfathers time. I thought others were joking when they talked about switching to metal poles because they're more durable.

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97f905  No.90444

>>78497

It is all 100% complete nonsense to sell his gimmick. Everything he says about "moon wood" is true of wood in general. Harvest it at any moon phase and it will perform exactly the same. If this was a real thing, he wouldn't need to lie so blatantly about it. The story about them not wanting to fire test a wood wall is complete bullshit. We fire test solid wood walls all the time, you can look up test results, they always do really well. Solid wood takes ages to burn through.>>78497

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e6b05d  No.90449

File: 8cea7865461983b⋯.png (330.49 KB, 514x450, 257:225, frankfurt84521.png)

>>78665

>>90425

>>Communism and Capitalism go hand in hand.

they dont but current non communist countries are basically post-capitalist, that entire system is very similar to communism. factional reserve banking, central banking that controls currency and inflation is what Marx required for a communist system. Any system that doesnt have the gold standard is not capitalist.

This explains why some many neo-marxist werent that opossed to post-capitalist countries and in many cases attacked Soviet countries

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1d1026  No.90456

File: 1008cdff939a67b⋯.png (140.36 KB, 710x551, 710:551, hexacube_bom.png)

File: 766a17b5beb4a2c⋯.jpg (480.75 KB, 1920x1443, 640:481, wattlecottage.jpg)

You can build a summer shelter with $215 in the USA

You can upgrade it to a super insulated coze-cave for another $300 when autumn comes.

4 anons could buy a $25k parcel of land for $1200 down each and $80/mo for 5 years.

There'd be internet bill, monthly food, and a budget for buying appliances as well, but say it was $220/mo and everyone was getting $1200/mo from their plaguebux you could easily afford to build up your land quickly and in 5 years be the quarter owner of a homestead and debt free.

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95b11c  No.90467

File: 242cf8fe2b6b54f⋯.jpg (99.57 KB, 356x621, 356:621, baruch_levy_the_jews_will_….jpg)

>>90449

>Communism and Capitalism go hand in hand. they dont

Of course they do in that both are tools of bolshevism, both are ideals which exist only in the human mind, both play on the well-meaning of white people to "do the right thing", and both are schemes to obtain all wealth into certain hands.

>pic "Cultural Marxism"

Is a misnomer. Again, the destruction using cultural methods is simple bolshevism. Marx has literally nothing to do with the cultural attacks, it's simply a euphemism for bolshevism which is well-understood and goes back a very long way.

99% of the time you are presented with a dichotomy, it's false. Most especially when that dichotomy has something to do with power, wealth or control.

Fucking RRRRRReactionaries. Literally all of these things start with some kind of EL, and push you via reverse psychology into some kind of RRR.

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97f905  No.90474

>>90456

>live in an 8x8 toxic box

Why? Grow wheat or oats or barley and use the straw for your walls. Build an actual house instead of a tiny box smaller than a normal person's bedroom.

>a super insulated coze-cave

A barely insulated toxic box. They even call it a "3 season" shelter.

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1d1026  No.90494

File: 78dfb11223a69fb⋯.jpg (126.08 KB, 800x600, 4:3, wattlestreet.jpg)

>>90474

No, it's 2 layers of dense OSB filled with insulation on all 6 sides and with a wood stove inside. It's extremely warm down to -25F.

The cheap version is the 3 season. The expensive one is 4 season.

>Why live in an 8x8 toxic box?

Because you can build it in a day and you need something to sleep in while you're building your wattle & daub house and buying your appliances for power, water, and HVAC.

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97f905  No.90562

>>90494

It is R-11, that is very low insulation for a wall, it is 1/5th of what it should be on the ceiling. Any box can be warm if it has a wood stove in it, normal people do this with tents all the time. That doesn't make it super insulated.

>Because you can build it in a day and you need something to sleep in while you're building your wattle & daub house

You aren't building in the winter, so why would your shit insulation matter in that case? Just use a tent, it only takes a couple of days to frame a house and get the roof on, then you can sleep in there while you do the walls and then move in there while you do the interior.

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c9a956  No.90583

>>90423

The devil is in the detail with any construction. My own thinking is that the less types of materials used in a house the better. You should never try to save on material or change materials due to cost. I don't want 8 different layers to my wall or ceilings – only idiot architects do. As for Europe's concrete and brick construction - it's absolutely sturdy. Even poorly built houses due to the shear scale of bricks and massive foundations can and do have very long lives. Repair cost is not an issue if and when it happens it's a convenience issue. Many family homes in Europe have a lot of involvement of the buyer in completing and supervising work or are essentially owner builds. This does lead to stupid things due to over ambition but in most cases lack of not knowing how little understanding they have. Also, many guys here do home renovation (typically in apartments even if they rent) before they embark on home building so they generally have some skill. Again - because of the scale of material it's generally not an issue.

Steel rusts, exposed wood goes bad and concrete always cracks. Steel can be hot dip galvanised, wood can be primed and given a great top coat and concrete can be placed/cured correctly and protected. This is an issue of money and perceived necessity. These houses are not built forever though they will last well more than a hundred years with reasonable care or until WW3 carpet bombing. Although I might seem like I am joking about WW3 the resilience of the structure in a war like scenario for many people (whether talked about or not) is a consideration and typically there are guidelines set that fundamentally have to do with structural resilience in unusual circumstances. I don't have a 30cm thick solid concrete roof with 4 layers of steel to keep the rain out.

Also, depending on where you are in Europe the climate has a huge impact on longevity and this goes back to the devil being in the detail. My homes foundations are 2.7m into the ground and come up another 0.6m to the ground floor. I know the rebar placement isn't great but I also know there is twice the amount of rebar in there. I know in some areas the rebar doesn't have enough cover and over time will rust and cause spall. I still sleep easy knowing there is a 3.3m wall of concrete making sure everything stays up.

Concrete and brick is very easy to thermally isolate or insulate. You, as most likely don't understand this and take a simple view. This post is long enough so I'll cover this another time. Also, concrete and brick construction, done well, has no problems resisting earthquake that it's designed to.

I think most Americans are just absurd in their view on European construction but I don't pay thought to it beyond that.

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e6b05d  No.90594

File: 566ec08bd10144b⋯.png (490.56 KB, 600x450, 4:3, insulation_shack_styrofoam.png)

File: f619ee576640167⋯.jpg (128.56 KB, 400x391, 400:391, insulation_rock_wool_56.jpg)

File: 7d372b9f1cdd8f0⋯.jpg (256.09 KB, 600x372, 50:31, insulation_rock_wool_house….jpg)

File: 8a43c1158f6b111⋯.jpg (111.38 KB, 747x1328, 9:16, croatian_shit_shack_red_br….jpg)

>>90583

>Although I might seem like I am joking about WW3 the resilience of the structure in a war like scenario for many people (whether talked about or not) is a consideration and typically there are guidelines set that fundamentally have to do with structural resilience in unusual circumstances.

nothing to joke about. Having RC house in a war scenario makes it a bunker, OSB and drywall, not so much.

> You, as most likely don't understand this and take a simple view. This post is long enough so I'll cover this another time. Also, concrete and brick construction, done well, has no problems resisting earthquake that it's designed to.

Im a euro bro and live in that exact structure. Concrete is easy to insulate but itself inst and insulator

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c95546  No.90601

>>90456

Could you provide building instructions and pictures on the finished hexacube construction? Whatever it is I'm finding online is surely not the same thing as what you're talking about.

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97f905  No.90619

>>90601

It is a particle board box. You frame an 8x8 box and nail particle board to it.

https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/Solar_cubicle

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c95546  No.90778

File: 043f82ab38ff692⋯.jpg (41.15 KB, 768x399, 256:133, Hexacube.jpg)

>>90619

Yeah, boy, that is not what I was looking at, not even close. Pic related.

Thanks a lot mate. Sensible temporary construction, at least for that price tag.

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97f905  No.90792

>>90778

For that price tag just frame the box and stack straw bales instead of the OSB and insulation. Cheaper, way better insulation, non-toxic, and when you are done you still have straw you can use for other things.

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c95546  No.90824

>>90792

Box would have to be larger than 8x8 at that point to cover thickness of straw bale. Wouldn't the ceiling sag at that point if it were flat as in the cube? Would probably have to angle it, not that it matters much.

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97f905  No.90840

>>90824

The bales go on the outside. If you want it to last more than a season then you don't want a flat roof, easiest to just do an a-frame then.

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27b300  No.90956

File: b905d78874dced4⋯.pdf (3.39 MB, The_50_and_up_Underground_….pdf)

Another great type is the underground house. It has natural insulation and a stable temp meaning less need to heat or cool. Being built of just dirt and wood means its cheaper and less likely to experience wear. Also is really cheap. Here's the pdf of the concepts and different basic underground house designs.

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c9a956  No.91008

>>90594

I almost called you a burger before but Europeans know that the real burgers are actually Germans wink

Anyway, I've seen a want to move away from polystyrene and wool style insulation on account of issues many owners have had like fire danger, looking worse over time and moisture/condensation issues. Most of these issues are actually installation issues and with a bit of thinking and very little money can be avoided. Also, some facade workers avoid wool style like the plague (maybe for good reason).

I've discussed with countless people alternatives to polystyrene and my best advice is stay the fuck away except for areas you can't avoid. My advice is use much thicker bricks and a heavy layer of cementitious render which will require repair over time but if executed well should last for decades without problems even in crazy conditions. A few architects around town are pushing ventilated facade systems like in Switzerland but I'm disappointed they don't push much simpler [and cheaper] options like thicker bricks. Thicker bricks isn't my preferred option though - double brick or clad in BCA is. Everyone complains about stealing of floor area and cost. My response is that increasing footprint by 5% is cheaper than paying to redo the facade in 10 years and inflated gas bills in 5 years. Hilariously some people refuse the idea of cladding in BCA because people might think the house is made of BCA.

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c9a956  No.91011

>>90956

Thanks for that. This is a supplementary to that https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PVAF-JjuYc4

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e6b05d  No.91156

File: 56918347bc288be⋯.jpg (19.69 KB, 536x397, 536:397, insulation_r_value.jpg)

File: b4f34d9d7355641⋯.png (99.95 KB, 1440x599, 1440:599, insulation_rock_wool154956….png)

File: 71cd634b830a3f8⋯.png (186.05 KB, 1160x1152, 145:144, insulation_wall_slav.png)

File: b5f025452e6d1ff⋯.jpg (238.31 KB, 1280x720, 16:9, insulation_rock_wool_house.jpg)

File: 28990e34b9f70d4⋯.png (198.36 KB, 890x528, 445:264, insulation1546447936510.png)

>>91008

> A few architects around town are pushing ventilated facade systems like in Switzerland but I'm disappointed they don't push much simpler [and cheaper] options like thicker bricks.

I see where you are coming from, but thicker walls dont come near any kind of externally insulated wall in terms of performance, not to mention additional labour of thick walls.

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050e97  No.91166

>>90449

>>78665

One trick the (((central bankers))) have pulled is to label Keynesian economics as "capitalism" when it is really just socialism [bailouts, mass subsidies, tax exemptions, etc] for the very rich, those in positions of influence and power. We plebs still are forced to compete with an unfair disadvantage. If we had sound currency that could not be manipulated or created out of thin air, that was backed by actual value, and a free market system that forced everyone to compete on fair terms then we would not see such incredible corruption and poverty like we see today. The issue with having a gold standard is only certain countries have enough gold to back a currency with. Although, they could back it with silver or some other commodity and it would be relatively stable. Of-course these (((central banks))) would have to be abolished for their utter usury and fraud.

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c5f3b2  No.91232

>>90423

Skill required for concrete is very different than standard light framing. Most young guys in the US (white guys out of the city) build something and learn basic framing. Far far less learn concrete.

Hell I'm in my 30s.and only now messed around with some concrete pouring a 30 yard floor under the pole barn I building. It was quite the adventure and very different work. This is important.

I would not be comfortable pouring vertical walls I'm concrete and rebar but would laugh heartily when told to build a pole barn. Guess which one I will choose…

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4838ed  No.91323

>>90956

I agree that underground housing is fundamentally superior in almost every way to conventional housing, but I'm not impressed by this book.

Interesting read but the price estimates are total asspulls. He's right that underground houses can be fireproof but then he starts recommending wood over brick or reinforced concrete. He talks up energy efficiency then wastes pages trying to rationalize adding windows. He wants to say that they can be hidden and that he doesn't need to do frost line calculations then tacks on a greenhouse. The author is simply confused and a conventional house without windows would be superior by nearly all of his metrics.

And let's be honest, if you have to get your underground house assessed, permitted, and then taxed forever, you fucked up.

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97f905  No.91338

>>91323

Prices are from when it was written in the 70s. Wood is perfectly fine for a fire proof house, solid wood walls don't burn. Wood houses burn when they are made of 2x4s with nice chimneys between them. Windows increase energy efficiency if placed correctly. Solar gain outweighs the low R-value. It would appear that you are the one who is confused.

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c9a956  No.91470

>>91156

I really don't think you understand my posts. It might be a language barrier.

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4838ed  No.92041

>>91338

>Prices are from when it was written in the 70s

They're off by an order of magnitude, even assuming you have what it takes for a near-total DIY. And it was written in 82. He even admitted his own homestead blew these estimates and doesn't include the materials he scavenged in the prices.

>Wood is perfectly fine for a fire proof house, solid wood walls don't burn.

Now this is just obtuse. None of his designs would be considered fireproof, his own homestead suffered fire damage on two occasions, and he himself admitted that he was always especially careful around the wood-burning stoves he had to use to live in his house.

>Windows increase energy efficiency if placed correctly

They don't, and that's even granting we ignore his budget and design. Trying to get windows and energy efficiency at the same time is a major issue in architecture, and it's an even bigger problem for underground houses. His Idaho homestead suffered major issues due to his insistence on including windows and he could never dream of adding air conditioning or heat pumps (not that he could afford it on the budgets he proposed).

>you're confused

I'm not, and the reader of such a book needs to understand that these designs are not (and never were) optimal or even realistic at the prices promised. A DIY underground house shouldn't look like this in 2020, and even the author's permaculture fellows would agree on that.

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a4aa89  No.102171

File: 288ffcc5a5d33c6⋯.png (340.63 KB, 768x616, 96:77, 8e5.png)

If you build a house, jews will come.

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a3bcaf  No.102192

>>66419

That's not the problem. The space between them is about two car widths.

But there might as well be one long building and then what?

In big cities you don't have that either. There everything is wall to wall.

They are made out of wood strands and highly flammable glue. That's the entire problem.

>low stabality

>low insulation

>highly flammable because made out of wood strands, air holes and glue.

>a little wind and it will all come off and fly away

>looks eco while it lasts

If they just had houses made out of stone or clay in between I swear it wouldn't look that shit.

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a3bcaf  No.102200

>>65402

>prefab shithouse

Just no. Anon, what's wrong with you?

Where have they touched you?

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c0d0c1  No.102212

File: 3f857388cf2b91c⋯.jpg (51.42 KB, 720x985, 144:197, IMG_20200411_231220_996.jpg)

>>102171

If you build a house in Israel, jews will cum.

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34ec2c  No.102528

How do I get a house if im a poorfag from the EU? Dont want to feed jew bankers with a loan either

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fb4f58  No.102532

>>102528

Sneak up at night and steal someone else's house while they're sleeping.

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c747ad  No.102714

Builditsolar.com

You're welcome

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9ddda9  No.102974

>>91323

If you're burying the foundation of a house, why in the fuck would you need to run frost line calculations. As a matter of fact, I've never once had to run frost line calculations since code prescriptions have already done that for you, very conservatively in most cases. In the far north a typical frost depth, by code, is ~4', give or take depending on the area. I don't know what kind of arctic snownigger environment you're living in or how shallow your floor to ceiling height is, but if you are building underground you don't worry about frost depth unless you're building in Antarctica.

also, don't touch brick if you live in an area with so much as an iota of seismic activity. brick/cmu/segmented masonry units in general crumble if a ground shake looks in its general direction. if you don't believe me look at pictures of Christchurch NZ after their recent quake. All CMU & brick structures were obliterated.>>91323

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e64eca  No.105816

>>102974

>>>102714

>Thanks anon, that is very useful

>>>102974

>>snowni**er

>Haven't heard that one before..

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e64eca  No.105817

>>102714

Thanks anon, that is very useful

>>102974

>snowni**er

Haven't heard that one before..

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748029  No.105826

Im seriously considering this

>Italian

>concrete house of decent size: 250k euros 1 year of work to build it

>wodden house built in 2 weeks: 40k euros

>b-but what if it breaks

I can build 6 houses with the same cash I need for a single classic one

Plus I can repay a 40k house in a few years instead of 30 years of debt (im 33 so basically until death/pension)

Chances of fire are minimal because "wood" is impregnated with substances that make it basically not wood anymore

And a fire estinguishing system is still cheaper than the 210k euros i'd have to pay for concrete home which can still be destroyed by quakes

I plan to built it away from other houses/woods to avoid catching chain-fire from other sources, away from floods too

In this country everyone is obsessed with concrete because it's a big business here but if I can buy 6 homes at the price of one I fucking will

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11f850  No.107133

>>65327

you will never build your own house cucky

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b70386  No.107259

What does it take to build one's own house in the West i.e. North America, Europe, Australia, etc?

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f24971  No.108790

YouTube embed. Click thumbnail to play.

>>65327

You have to pay perpetual (((property taxes))) on basically any land. There are thousands of abandoned houses from the 19th century sitting vacant, because everyone moved to the cities to find tax paying jobs.

What to do OP?

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a3bcaf  No.108817

>>108790

This. Can't live somewhere where you make little to no money because you can't pay your taxes then.

Here in Germany it's even worse. You can't even put up a tent.

And old buildings……….. HAHAAHAHAA……

They are protected. From renovation too (You can't change a tiny thing).

You need to have every little change signed and rubber-stamped before you can even start. If it's not historically accurate don't even bother asking.

Not to mention all the costs and that you're not allowed to do things you don't have a certificate for.

They say if I don't like it I should just go live in the woods. Fucking niggers.

I can't. I'd go to jail if I don't go to a homeless shelter where rapefugees would steel my shit.

All those forests are privately owned. Not even many animals are allowed inside them.

You know, they could grind their horns on the trees and "damage" the wood they sell.

Which they publicly stated when they tried to rescue the Wisent (european bison) which will now get deported to eastern europe because of it.

Yes, they are literally deporting native animals for "wood quality".

I just want them all to die, arg.

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a3bcaf  No.108818

>>108817

With costs I'm referring to the property tax and all the shit they'll charge you for every little thing you do to your own house.

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a3bcaf  No.108819

The greatest thing is that as your house gets better your property tax gets higher because your property value increases.

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a3bcaf  No.108822

The German wikipedia article even states in the second paragraph that the law is against the base-laws which have higher priority but they do it anyway and you can't resist the state.

https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grundsteuer_(Deutschland)

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b9a904  No.116779

I've quit my job to buy land and build a house. Notice how we never see anyone coming into these threads having done this? That's because, as I'm discovering now, to build legally is not cheap. Cleared, flat, buildable land is not cheap. Making wooded land buildable isn't cheap. There's nowhere in the country you can build with an non-permitted waste water system and that gets expensive. Call Child Protective Services and tell them you're raising children in a DIY house with an non-permitted waste water system and watch how fast the "no building codes here bro" myth disappears. Good luck guys. It's not cheap to do this.

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c8d38d  No.116828

>>66553

Where is that?

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ca2d5e  No.116846

>>116779

You might be interested in 1215.org.

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b9a904  No.117281

>>116846

What's your argument, specifically?

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534358  No.117347

File: ea624675be5381d⋯.jpg (63.22 KB, 640x380, 32:19, 5452534_orig.jpg)

File: 047a2e3e645dfd8⋯.jpg (133.54 KB, 788x1000, 197:250, 1451292841006_0.jpg)

>>65327

Zillow. You can search the entire country systematically for cheap housing. This is the paid for cash purchases $10-20g and cheaper market. Sometimes it's BFE Rural Kansas or some culturally enriched population density environment. Sometimes its on the edge of both.

Need: Ability to strip shingles, put on painted metal roof. Run pex and or pvc to replace all the pipes. Rewire. Install your own hvac. Strip out meth laced carpet, black mold covered walls and ceiling. Understanding of cabinetry work, appliance repair, glazing.

All that while pulling in enough cash to keep you supplied and happy.

Shit's so fucking easy today. You can youtube videos to learn all of that. Used to be you had to hunt down time life books on how to do it.

Good luck.

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534358  No.117351

File: 4a42e85e7f2efae⋯.jpg (1.16 MB, 1500x1500, 1:1, boondocking.jpg)

>>117347

I forgot to add, your best resource is real estate agents. They've got their ear to the ground, and generally aren't shy about cold calling someone about selling their rotting shack for the price of the lot.

So if your serious, hit up the the best resource you have in your area. My agent made $400 off of the house he got for me. Pretty sure its the lowest commission he ever got, but my gratitude is eternal and I keep an open line with the above.

Again, good luck and don't fear just finding out.

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efd6a2  No.117504

>>68717

I always suspected that the reason California is the way it currently is because of a nefarious plan to create attrition. Kind of like a chimp that finds a good stack of fruits, it'll cover it's mouth to prevent the instinctive desire to call for its group, run off to some other place, then let out the call. Once the others are distracted, the sly animal will go and consume the fruits all by itself.

So, cause distress via extreme left leaning/degenerate policies, people who hate you leave, property values go down, buy cheapened property and sell it to incoming blue haired morons, achieve total control of the market and politics thanks to the "purified" population. Technocratic golem state achieved.

I always look at people telling others to abandon a location, opportunity, idea, etc. they insist on it too much, I just don't buy it! Too many people are echoing the same rhetoric, even in mainstream media, for it to not be suspcious.

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d883d8  No.140732

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913a4c  No.140936

>>116779

>to build legally is not cheap

Lol no shit.

Didn't yet read this thread, but if people are shilling "build a house - it's cheap" they are dreaming. Just to get out of the ground is super expensive, let alone glazing etc. Also doing it physically yourself is a total waste of your time, unless you are building a cabin for the joy of it. I suppose my hourly rate would work out at about €75/hour, but I can hire unskilled laborers here for €5/hour. Why would I spend my own time hauling shit around when I can pay someone else to do it. SUPERVISING it yourself is essential, but actually laying hands on is a joke (again - building your own cabin is a different story). I am a half decent carpenter when it comes to simple things, but I wouldn't dream of trying to make a staircase or a door, because making a finely crafted staircase is a real art, and because an extremely skilled carpenter doesn't cost more than €30/hr.

Owning and maintaining property is for people who have money. A lot of the "cheap" places you see on the market are there because the appreciation of the asset is lower than the land tax. Remember that you have to pay tax on property you own. If someone is selling you a house for 5k - you are almost certain to be getting ripped off. Check the tax burden before you buy anything (including extra rates for water and sewerage if its a rural property)

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c0189e  No.140947

>>140732

With no content? Go fuck yourself.

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8c3fb6  No.141055

hey house-anon. it's the BO from /polk/. I feel like im going to let you down by telling you I bought a brick house but it probably will fall short of your standards. I'm going to fix it up nice and proper though, cheers mate. I liked your threads

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0725ed  No.141063

File: 80b6353385c076b⋯.jpg (90.39 KB, 736x552, 4:3, garage_apartment.jpg)

I like the apartment over garage design instead of a cabin. It solves the problem of needing secondary structures (garage, workshop) by putting it all under one simple roof/footprint. Sound proofing, ventilation, and fire mitigation would be crucial with this design.

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8ad421  No.141067

>>65327

>house ownership is a political issue

that's why they want to take away or burn your house, prepare, prepare, …

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5753a4  No.141071

>>66447

Not entirely sure what an earthship is but it looks a lot like buried container homes built with shipping containers. The general concept is it’s cheaper for importers to keep the containers than it is to pay for them to ship it back, hence keeping a surplus of containers in the states. Sometimes you end up with moisture trouble, which can be a bitch to work out, but they’re relatively cheap, won’t have to deal with earthquakes or tornadoes, and if I’m thinking correctly will also provide a faraday cage as long as you insulate them properly. All for the price of some really hard labor and good welding skills. I’d probably still just use 2x6 stick frame considering how astronomically cheaper it is to put up. It’s not particularly hard to super-insulate an off-grid home so burying it in earth, and working out how the load would be buried is quite a big headache if your only goal is to get away from society.

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5753a4  No.141074

>>116779

>I’ve quit my job

Ok…

>To buy land and build a house

Oh… anon… What have you done?

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5753a4  No.141078

>>67595

You’re telling me brother. I was hearing that with all the added codes over the years it’s pretty much near impossible to build a home that’s below 1000-1200 sqft. Of course, you could just dodge code enforcement like most people. Nobody pulls permits unless they’re forced to.

>You have to be hooked to the grid.

Heard stories of people that built a shed and hooked their one light bulb to the grid so they could claim their property is ‘on grid’. Don’t know if it’s a meme or not.

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100f6f  No.141104

>>67758

>The Idahoan Show has a great video of bullet proofing stud walls with gravel “Testing Gravel Armor (TIS239)”. He does make a point about the studs not being bullet proof so… I don't know what would be a good solution for that other than some steel plates.

make the walls extra-thick, such as a 2X6 or 2X8 plate and top sill, and alternate the studs, so none of them go from one side to the other. Solved.

My primary concern with gravel is that it is going to settle, and settling sand or gravel acts like a liquid, in that at the bottom you are going to end up with pressure proportionate to the lubricity of the gravel/sand combined with the mass bearing down from above.

If you have walls filled with skinny bags of gravel all laid on top of each other to overlap like bricks, you will have less problem with that, but just pouring gravel into a cavity will allow vibration and time to make the gravel want to push the containing boards/drywall/whatever right off of the studs.

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100f6f  No.141109

>>90423

eventually steel rusts and cracks, low thermal isolation,

You can get coated rebar, but by the time the rebar rusts, a normal wood house wood be sad, sagging, firetrap of tinder-dry matchsticks, wouldn't it?

If you have double concrete walls (thinner, but non-thermally but mechanically linked for strength) with insulation in the middle, you get thermal stability with insulation. As an example, one could have twin layers of 4" thick concrete reinforced with thick wire mesh on both sides of a thick, cheap foam board center that also contains all the wiring and plumbing.

Where there's a will, there's a way.

If you REALLY want to save money, you can do all the forming and rebar yourself.

But, your floors need to be two layers of rebar: one layer near top, and one layer near bottom. Laying a floor with just a sheet of 1dm square mesh tossed in the middle is not going to support properly.

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8664c7  No.141113

Thank you construction-anon. I tagged this thread in 8/pol/ to read for later, when later came, I couldn't fucking find it in the archives, and I searched for hours. Glad to see it back again.

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af06f6  No.141118

Does anyone have experience with earthbags? I am looking for the cheapest / most labor-intensive possibility for my cuckshed / workshop. Only need about 200 sq. ft. Just me and the tools and some books.

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186661  No.142138

File: 404c3de15080256⋯.jpg (143.47 KB, 1280x960, 4:3, WelcomeToRussia.jpg)

>>116779

I've watched numerous Grand Designs with normally the husband quitting their job to build the house. Normally it turns into a clusterfucks but to be fair almost all the builds turn into clusterfucks. Building is expensive if you want it to a good standard. Of course it's possible to build horrible shit really cheap but… why? When it came time for me to select materials and methods for construction of my own home… I normally went for an expensive option because in all those situations it was a better performing and more durable way and why would I want anything else? I hope it works for you.

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186661  No.142143

>>141104

Agreed.

>>141109

Your recommendation for insulation internally is not a cure-all. The insulating property of the wall will be totally dependent on the insulation in the middle (foam board). 1” or 2” is not going to give great results and depending on internal and exterior climates it's going to form condensate in the middle where the foam board is and the amount of condensate will vary with the thickness of foam. Generally though, such a system would be really really good in warm and hot climates. In climates that get winters with high humidity and lots of negative temps the condensate will need to be considered. However, in saying that if the foam is 200mm there is basically no issue PROVIDED that the humidity inside is kept at 60% or under. What I can say though is that with 4” of concrete inside it will stabalise internal temperature really well even with a thin layer of internal foam (say 2”) but you are going to have other problems (e.g. mold formation on the interior)… and again depending on climate conditions.

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b1ac7e  No.142365

>>142143

I'm thinking a pretty thick closed-cell foam board would be viable. The temperature gradient would be rapid-slope through the foam board, but there would be almost no gradient inside the concrete itself, and it would be a fairly consistent temperature through and through on each side, individually.

As an example, the outside concrete would be close to exactly the outside temperature. The inside concrete would be close to exactly the inside temperature.

The more closely your R value approaches infinite, the more consistent the temperature of the foam-side and the exposed side of the concrete slab is.

Thus, the more thoroughly you insulate the interstitial cap, the lower the slope of the temperature gradient of the concrete slabs.

PS,these walls are very simple to make if you tilt them up. You start with a flat slab on which to make the outside wall, or you lay out whatever dust, dirt, rocks, bricks, broken glass, whatever, you want as your weather surface, and pour your outside slab on that.

Then, whatever thickness of foam you want is laid on top of that, bonded, actually, then the last layer of concrete is laid on top of that. Thick, yes, but you can do them in ten-foot-long sections. They don't have to be the entire end wall of the house.

In cold climates, your high-R-value insulation would have a high thermal gradient from one side to the other, but inside there would be almost no thermal gradient, so condensation would not be a problem.

Now, a thick concrete-only wall would definitely present condensation problems. Condensation and mold.

What I like about the foam-in-the-middle sandwich is that the thermal inertia works in your favor on both sides of the wall. A sudden heat wave won't bake the inside of the structure, and a sudden cold snap won't freeze it. In theory, the thicker your wall, the more you approach a constant year-round temperature, with our without insulation.

I wouldn't bank on 2" of foam doing much good. 6" would be more like it. Expensive, yup.

So that brings you back around to "Why not just use one-foot-thick wood frame walls with sprayed-in foam insulation?" R100 or whatever. Close to zero thermal gradient from inside surface to inside side of foam, and ditto for outside, meaning condensation is not a problem, and neither is mold.

As always, it comes down to cost versus benefits.

Then there's rammed Earth, which is functionally free, but for the jackhammers and the forms. Not a lot of material cost involved.

I think concrete made with mirrored vacuum-filled metalized plastic spheres would be close to ideal.

That mysterious mirrored-soft-bag insulation they make for airplanes is amazingly effective. Minus 90 outside, with massive wind chill on top of that due to localized 600mph or so airflow, yet, there you are, two inches away, and there is no frost on your elbow.

Time, budget, and space are all considerations.

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b1ac7e  No.142366

>>142365

interstitial GAP.

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186661  No.142554

>>142365

It depends what environment you want to build in and what your aims are. You are correct in saying that concrete on the inside and outside will moderate the internal temperate. It's roughly the same if you put all the concrete on the inside or outside but the issue will remain the humidity and condensate on the inside wall or wherever the insulation is… causing mold growth.

Simply put… keep your mass on the inside and insulation outside. Trying to split the difference like what you are doing is probably only really good from a durability standpoint but it would be marginal depending on the environment again.

I'm not trying to discourage you. The simplest and cheapest wall system that sort of functions in crazy cold and crazy hot environments is: 1. light adhesive coating 2. thick aerated concrete block like 16” 3. solid plaster render to the inside. I would also stay well clear of render of paint that is 'silicon based.' This wall will be good for -30C 100% RH as long as you keep inside RH at 55% or lower you are good. This is good for high temperature environment even with RH 95%. There are tricks to fine tune this sort of wall system to be better performing depending on the build environment by applying a vapour retarder or barrier on the inside or outside depending if you are just trying to deal with super cold or hot environments. There are many more things to consider that I'm not going to include in this post.

I feel like I could come up with a few wall and ceiling details for some different environments are explain and do some 3D graphics and give actual data… but I don't know what people would really want. Also these wall systems would be region specific depending on availability, regulations, cost… all sorts of things.

I think a one size fits all for any conditions at a 'low' cost is just not here yet. I've thought about it a lot in the last year too.

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97c9b7  No.142742

>>141055

hi /polk/ BO. its been a while

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dd804f  No.146563

>>65330

those are actually pretty good ideas, here in beanland we have some decent constructions built upon these foundations, the pyramids have lasted very long times and as mexico city sinks and floods more and more prehispanic constructions are coming to the fore again.

I've always thought that if I were to be able to afford to build I'd like very thick rock walls as a foundation, build a masonry oven right into one of them to help with heating and ventilation and add strong wooden second and third floors, seems I wasn't so wrong after all.

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dd804f  No.146728

>78613

Ah so that's why the japs use gravel! so the fucking rain doesn't jump over the little step of foundation that holds up the wood!

Those sly slants!

>>78497

It's very common knowledge here and any place where you want high quality wood outside the big cities will try and say they'll go and cut it with the moon.

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5cfe06  No.146806

no

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b86fee  No.146829

>>108817

> And old buildings……….. HAHAAHAHAA……

> They are protected. From renovation too (You can't change a tiny thing).

Not all old buildings are under Denkmalschutz. Also, you can do a whole lot of stuff that isn't legal, strictly speaking, out in the middle of nowhere. I can't begin to count the number of times I helped my neighbors build things they never bothered with a permit for.

>t. currently restoring a house that isn't protected, despite dating back to at least the early 1900s.

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8063b3  No.146871

fun read; pile foundation worry's me due to advertised 50-70yr lifetime. Passive home standard is what I am aiming towards, but I will still have low end hvac system… https://passivehouseplus.ie/

https://zeroenergy.com/farmstead-passive-house

good info > https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HMT3wb4h234

https://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/green-homes/farmhouse-style-meets-passive-house

containers are not cost effective..once you frame and insulate wtf did you have the container in the first place..

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8063b3  No.146872

>>146871

main standard website for passivehaus: https://www.phius.org/home-page

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b86fee  No.146881

>>146871

(((passive house))) is a fucking pipe dream. Achieving that standard means insulating the house to the point where you need active (as in powered) ventilation systems to keep yourself from suffocating and your house from rotting. Forget about this bullshit. It's an invention designed to make housing even more expensive and harder to build through (((regulation))).

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8063b3  No.146884

>>146881

that leads me to Timber Frame, which seems to be a PITA aka time consuming..in a perfect world the land I buy will have oak trees so I can cut my own…pipe dream. For now sitting on cash waiting for a good price/econ to tank

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611149  No.149826

File: 603debb0ca3c20a⋯.jpg (377.94 KB, 1600x1200, 4:3, QNKT3148.jpg)

>>66447

Tires are only one way of doing it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WOWKQbjkmr8

I participated a few years ago in the construction of one dome with earthbags.

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2646ae  No.152750

>>149826

That really looks awesome. Still it's a but too hippy for most people. But thermally they would perform awesome.

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7a5df4  No.152755

>diy house

>searching for automated turrets

>searching for perimeter cameras

>searching for double perimeter wall

A lone house in a clear will be easy to get surrounded by the commie guerrilla. Be smarter.

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