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There's no discharge in the war!

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75a416 No.683986

How reliable is your primary weapon?

How long can it go til it blows?

What are it's limits?

I see some anons discussing the effectiveness of the AR-15 in combat, often times claiming it's lack thereof.

Many anons have concerns that their rifles would jam or otherwise become inoperable in a theoretical combat situation.

I feel that this is a good opportunity to clarify some differences between cyclical Rof, an effective Rof, and a sustained Rof

The numbers for each of these are as follows:

>cyclical Rof ~700-800rpm

>effective Rof ~45rpm

>sustained Rof ~12-15rpm

As you can see, the difference in dakka is significant. I have linked a video showing what happens to a fun at maximum (cyclical) rpm.

In this video he burns through ~400+ rounds rather quickly, which generally speaking is over the regular combat load for an average soldier, he is also firing non-stop, which almost no average soldier would do.

Some other details to note here are that the rifle he is using is among the cheapest available on the market (at the time of the video). The barrel is a standard mil-spec barrel, I suspect that a heavy barrel would be best. With that he also notes that it is already hot where he is while firing.

With his skinny barrel and high outdoor temps, I feel this is a good example of what many would experience with a run of the mill rifle without optimizations.

The effective rof of 45rpm is what can be expected of a man in heavy combat, meaning that he has a lot of trigger time, this is also fairly unlikely in most combat situations. While this would cause a weapon to overheat eventually, it would still be operation for a fairly long period of time, given that it has time to cool down in between periods of fire.

For a sustained rof, precise and accurate fire, at regular intervals. One could have his weapon operational almost 100% of the time with almost no fear of overheating and subsequently jamming/damaging his weapon.

For the average soldier carrying a load of no less than 210 rounds of ammunition for his weapon, he will have almost no chance of ever going full dakka until he has zip ammo.

If he is in heavy/intense combat against a force that outnumbers him then he may have to use the effective rof, this means fair-poor accuracy but delivering a constant volly. In this situation he would run out of munition before his weapon would fail, forcing him to retreat, giving his weapon a chance to cool in the meantime.

For a soldier in a battle where he is either going to be scouting or dealing with skirmishes or simply sparse combat, he can expect to use a sustained rof, possibly even less. In such a case as this his weapon stands almost no chance to overheat, and would give him a chance for resupply long before exhausting all munitions.

This brings up another important note, regardless of the quality of your weapon, it NEEDS to be well maintained in order to function at any of these levels with optimal efficiency. The better maintained a weapon is, the less chance it will malfunction at any of these levels, or even with random firing. ALL guns need lube, AR's are notorious for being maintenance queens in order to run efficiently.

>tl;dr AR's can be good reliable weapon if you maintain it properly and don' mag dump constantly

____________________________
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Post last edited at

5b9fec No.684008

Points to keep in mind:

1. Tighter guns tends to have more reliability issues in general, they will have more issues with different spec rounds from different manufacturers for certain, they tend to have more problems after fouling, they tend to have more fuck ups when the gun gets hot. Build or buy a super tight auto loading rifle, a tight match rifle, keep in mind your ROF should be lower because of this consideration.

2. Carrying weight may suck, but heavier barrels are better. More accurate, also more reliable with heat. That bull barrel will weigh more, but it will help you if you end up being the guy who has to fire hot and heavy. Say you like the M1a/M14, so you rebarrel an M1a with a heavy match style barrel but spec it loose, the big boi barrel will allow you to have something closer to an automatic rifle in terms of reliability. Same thing with heavy barrel FN FAL variants, RPK, ect. Pencil barrels have disadvantages.

3. Blasting away doesn't usually help anyway. Keeping your ROF low means you can usually keep the same enemy pinned with less ammunition and less heat build up in the rifle. "I was under combat stress, so I was just blazing away" is a more better excuse than "WE GOTSTA FIRE MORE ROUNDS TO HIT ENEMEY HARDER HERRR". Battle hardened men, better natural soldiers who have the talent, and elites now how to conserve ammunition and make it count.

4. As OP says, know the limitations of your rifle. Don't just look at demo reels and advertisers claims, go find the worst stories of your gun in battle. Don't blaze away and waste ammunition till its burnt out on the idea it will perform like a brand new show gun oiled and greased for a video demonstration, keep thinking of your barrel and reliability on what could happen if the stars don't align and your gun is having a bad day and will fuck up.

5. Keep armorer's round counts into consideration. If your weapon X usually had part B replaced after Y amount of rounds, go ahead and splurge a few bucks to buy a new one and replace it at the interval. Don't wait for shit to fuck up, fix it before it ever has the chance to malfunction.

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75a416 No.684022

>>684008

>1.

I don't know if many realize this, but good mags and ammo make all the difference, so with this in mind, try a couple different boxes of ammo until you find what your weapon likes, then try to shoot only that, even if lot numbers are different (unless it's a DMR then keep the specs tight) The same can be said for mags aswell, feeding issues are a big problem for auto loading weapons, so this is a good spot to spend some extra money on for a good performance boost, and try not to mix mag types in your kit as it may cause an issue.

>2.

the extra weigh you carry in a bigger barrel or larger caliber weapon will yield the benefit of less chance of a jam, but this is true for most large bore weapons, since we're on the details of AR style weapons then a heavy barrel and extra ammo are in store

>3.

suppressive fire is a military meme (for you because ammo and machine guns are expensive) slow, precise fire will be your M.O. however at times that may not be a luxury you have so hear this, shoot him fast, but shoot him good

>4.

know the reputation and the facts, know what works and whats shit. better to have a not as fancy weapon than it is to have something that you aren't sure if you can rely on

>5.

a few failure points on the AR are the gas tube and the extractor and fcg springs, the gas tube is designed to blow before the barrel so it can save you a bit of money if it fucks up, however it will need a shot to be fixed as field repairs are impractical. the biggest concern and easiest to break part is the extractor and fcg springs, as if you have a bad round blow in your barrel IT WILL fuck up the extractor and likely the fcg springs too. this will very quickly turn your fancy oper8r rifle into a martini henry/brown bess hybrid if you keep using it as is, however an extractor replacement is easy and can be done in the field in a matter of minutes if you have a tool punch with you, so it's a safe bet to keep an extra on you when doing goon shit

One more bit I'd like to touch on is mag placement/setup. This should be common knowledge but often times is not. There are several ways to carry mags, either with some leeto chest rig or some old surplus webbing. Regardless of your choice, you must set up the mags in such a way that when you grab it, you can easily insert it into the weapon with the turn of your hand. This is usually done by having the brass to the grass and having the point of the bullet pointing towards your fingers when you grab it, if you grab it and they are facing your thumb, then you have it the wrong way.

Don't forget to save your mags. Magazines are as valuable as the ammo they carry, if you don't have mags, you can't load your weapon, that simple. This isn't call of duty so don't just toss empty mags and move on, instead get a dump pouch, it takes two extra seconds to place it inside the pouch and it will retain it for future use. Dump pouches are also much more efficient than trying to replace it into it's original pouch. Mags can become scarce, so take care of them, they are a part of your weapon, treat it like it.

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c696cd No.684031

File: a59ded504fe8e12⋯.png (742.4 KB,640x800,4:5,6ujnabs7zn631.png)

>AR's can be good reliable weapon if you maintain it properly and don' mag dump constantly

Over a century of machine gun warfare and it's just now dawning on people the purpose of a rifleman isn't to hose down areas in bullets?

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043ea4 No.684033

>How reliable is your primary weapon?

Only stoppage I've had is a primer falling out

>How long can it go til it blows?

Dunno, goes as long as I can hold burning limits

>What are it's limits?

400-500m

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5b9fec No.684036

>>684022

Are the magazine issues mostly to do with certain brands of magazines alone, certain receivers, or a combination thereof? Any examples to help out?

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02bc00 No.684039

File: 4f00ad51baaf655⋯.jpg (234.68 KB,799x527,47:31,4f00ad51baaf655c384a7483f7….jpg)

Bumping with pics of general rifle maintenance

>>684036

That depends on the platform. For AR mags bad mags have weak bodies or followers that crack chip or warp. This causes failure to feed or double feed. Bad mags are generally anything you can get under 10$ (don't expect it to be anything but a range toy) any extended or drum mag. Specific companies are Eagle, USA, pro mag, and thermold.

Usgi mags are usually good but if it has the old tan follower you should get a mag rebuild kit from Magpul. It comes with a new spring and anti tilt follower.

Good mags are Magpul, Lancer and usgi. My personal favorite for usgi is Okay Industries. The worst usgi mags have always been unmarked except for a date of manufacture.

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02bc00 No.684041

File: 43670c1cdcc61aa⋯.jpg (143.34 KB,500x1736,125:434,13a78e9cdd4a20723d457cbe0d….jpg)

>>684036

For ak's surplus is king. Whether its steel or bakelite. Acceptable commercial mags are the new Bulgarian mags made with steel locking lugs and the new zastava bolt hold open mags. Also good but pricey are the US palm 30 mags with the steel locking lugs.

Bad mags are tapco, pro mag, and KCI (Korean manufacture). These are the range toys or practice mags.

Not great but not terrible are the Magpul gen 1's. I had some fitment issues and the plastic locking lugs are future point of failure. Still functioned fine in my ak's though. Another is the new Croatian mags. Made of steel but the feed lip support plates that are spot welded to the back of the mag are out of spec and will cause them to not fit at all into some ak's without extensive filing. If it does fit it does prove to be a reliable mag with a bolt hold open.

Dumpster fire mags.

Pioneer polish mags. The plastic waffle ones for 5$. You get what you pay for.

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5b9fec No.684042

>>684039

My primary is my PTR91, one advantage of the G3 is that the GI aluminum were and are still cheap, so just use H&K's solid magazines. Its a problem for the FAL with two different main types, old GI magazines for each that have complaints about fitting new guns, and the nightmare of the AR10 debacle. Even haters of the M14/M1a even admit the GI magazines are solid, so anyone with that has another no brainer. AK milsurp seem to be the way to go, getting more expensive, and I've heard lots of issues about aftermarket brands and the general idea that Warsaw Pact are still the best choice there.

The whole AR15 thing is interesting, so many options can be a great thing, then again a bad thing. Plenty of superior choices and also crap to sort out. I just run aluminum GI, thinking about getting an H&K steel, or a few, and maybe some extra Okay 30 round and 20 rounders.

I think the general idea is "KISS', or keep it simple stupid. What works for the military tends to, at least, be a solid choice.

>>684041

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5b9fec No.684045

>>684041

You posted that right when I finished. Are magazines truly universal in AK, or do certain builds prefer certain magazines in the overall? Also heard someone say the bolt hold open magazines have issues with alternates like the PTR 32. I bought a few cheap new Croation bolt hold opens that work in my N-PAP, should I expect trouble in the future?

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043ea4 No.684047

File: efb39bc2f2f5316⋯.jpg (175.42 KB,1008x567,16:9,20190713_142309.jpg)

>>684045

If they work in your gun you're fine for the foreseeable future provided you don't abuse the shit out of those magazines. Some AK mags do need fitting, but usually those are commercially made ones, not surplus.

>>684041

Crapco mags either work flawlessly or they don't, the latter aren't even fit for the range.

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345b68 No.684060

>>684045

Not really but the great majority of ak mags are. If you have a standard stamped or milled akm type rifle it will take most of the mags I mentioned. Now there are odd balls like the single stack ak's and the saiga pre conversion mags. But for our purposes those don't matter.

If the croats fit then they should work fine, just be aware that the metal is a bit thinner on the sidewalls than a surplus mag so don't do rifle pushups or something stupid like that.

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345b68 No.684061

>>684047

I assume you mean kci or the polish ones? I think they have value in training to clear jams and malfunctions.

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c92943 No.684067

>>684042 I wouldn't follow it so blindly like that. There are plenty of GI mags that were and are ass. Like the date stamped m16 mags, it can be a crap shoot about what you're getting especially if you order online.

I love my ptr91, what style of load bearing system are you using for mags and kit

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5b9fec No.684098

>>684067

I'm too old fashioned to be helped, I'm using suspender and belt, leather FN FAL magazine pouches for all my battle rifles and leather AK quad cell magazine pouches for AK/AR15/C93. Cheap, durable gear that has the con of being the least durable with poor care, but the positive of being the most durable with proper care. I like them because they were extremely cheap, again durable if taken care of, excellent magazine retention while also offering good extraction, and the covers offering protection from debris.

I've been putting off armor for a very long time, along with night vision, for the simple fact I keep expecting these things to eventually fall in price to bargain bin levels to finally make a purchase. When I finally obtain that, I'm not sure if I'm going to put anything or much on a rig. Otherwise the gear setup is either on the belt or in the ruck, like I say, old fashioned.

Guess I need to get the carrier at least purcahsed, and plates are finally affordable, I can't have my rig 100% figured out until I do. But, I can use my old fashioned setup as is and its comfortable and carries the things i want just fine. Distribution of weight on shoulders and hip. Even with a plate carrier and armor, I can get low to the ground in prone. I'm not sure if modern chest rigs offer better load bearing, or if they offer better setup for vehicles, also issues with traditional war belts and pouches hanging and affecting some sitting situations, affecting meaneuver.

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5312de No.684396

File: 67a13ab0f3e4aa8⋯.png (1.3 MB,800x1180,40:59,c1d4c308c6af2e3ae29ab94243….png)

.>>684031

The era of machine guns is changed because of reliable air support. Its unfortunate, I know

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