Certain calibers still have factory cowboy loads or other lead bullets, but mainstream I don't know how you would do it, unless "factory reloads" are OK, there are some places that still might sell loaded ammunition with lead bullets on the cheap, or just buy factory coated if that is still a thing. Sounds like you have a big problem just using your cast reloads, and no way to save money if they keep your brass. Keep looking for a new place to shoot? Do revolver people have this problem, do the RO rip the spent cases out of their hands if they dump them into their hands or into a box?
As for reloading, start small, get a classic RCBS Rockchucker single stage and learn the basics, don't "upgrade" to turret or progressive until you master the basic skills. Get a good old fashioned beam balance to measure powder, don't rely on digital only, but having a backup digital you reference with your beam balance could be useful. Powder trickler is a must. An adjustable powder dispenser might be a useful thing, but when you are learning a Lee set of powder scoops TOPPED OFF WITH THE POWDER TRICKLER TO PROPER WEIGHT OF CHARGE is a good way to start and nice to have when working up various loads. Redding might have the best dies, but RCBS is probably just as good, Lee will work fine even, but RCBS has a superior locking nut, well worth the extra bucks when buying something for a lifetime.
Case trimmer is essential for rifle reloading, thus a set of calipers for measurement. Micrometer is helpful when casting bullets to see if the bullets are undersized. Case check gauges are a great idea, especially with rimless handguns that headspace on the neck, too little crimp or too much crimp will affect chambering, one can do the "plunk" test with the barrel, but a good case gauge is a good investment, saves a lot of headache.
For bullet casting, a cheap Lee electric pot will do for learning, but later on a pricier RCBS really does make things better. You can start out with cheap Lee aluminum molds, many will swear by them, but they are much more difficult to use and don't seem to cast consistent bullets. An expensive Lyman, or if you have money to bleed SAECO, will offer better performance and easier use. A bullet resizer/lubricator is also a must to true up bullets to uniformity and easiest way to apply lubrication. Any of the models will do.
As for literature, buy a Loadbook, http://www.loadbooks.com/index.html these type of books can be bought cheaper on Amazon and gun stores, they are the most comprehensive source for each caliber you reload for, at least load wise. Buying a good Lyman big book is a must, they go into the details of reloading and the nuisances that are very important. For cast bullets, the Lyman 4th Edition is fine, and many older light loads can be found in earlier editions of Lymna's cast bullet books, but will also be found in the LoadBook data if you buy them.
I suggest the LoadBooks because most newer reloading books are about halfways pure dogshit because they list a tiny handful of bullets, this is heavily in part due to influence from the bullet makers to push certain designs in some cases. The other problem of buying many other reloading books is they only have loads for their own bullets, or only SOME of their bullets.
Above all reach out to other casters and relaoders.