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/k/ - Weapons

Salt raifus and raifu accessories
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There's no discharge in the war!

File: c0487887d64364b⋯.jpg (1.86 MB, 4032x3024, 4:3, image.jpg)

File: de84eeb22f98f68⋯.jpg (1.82 MB, 4032x3024, 4:3, image.jpg)

File: f8f91c8ff943fd0⋯.jpg (1.97 MB, 4032x3024, 4:3, image.jpg)

File: eb443d344f905f3⋯.jpg (2.02 MB, 4032x3024, 4:3, image.jpg)

03bae3  No.678448

So, first I’m going to tell you about how this thing works. It’s a .32 ACP semi-automatic handgun (closed bolt) that uses a nail gun that is small and compact enough to fit in the magazine well to act as the striker. The trigger is a thin, sturdy metal rod that extends from inside the nail gun in a kind of button trigger thing that it clicks into with tightened springs, so that it’ll be strong enough to pop the primer of a bullet traveling at the right fps speed to hit it through a hole in the bolt face. There are two extractors, one for the nail, one for the spent cartridge casing (nail gun goes behind the bolt face, magazine goes in front). Although I might’ve gotten the length for the extractor for the nail wrong, since I’m using short and thin nails, and since it has some ways to go to hit the primer, I might need to make the nail extractor longer. Or I could use the back of the bolt to push it back or have it at the right fps so that it’ll fly back in the right direction under the recoil and come out the short extractor that is just big enough to allow it to come out. On the back of the rear barrel, there is a semispherical shaped piece that connects to an inner slide that goes over the bolt, which is attached through the frame using two large pins. There are two horizontal lines cut into the inner slide/bolt on the right of the right pin and on the left of the left pin, with a thermometer head shaped piece at the end with some rubber or putty-like material in it that will hold it when the slide is back without getting it stuck in place. The bolt is like that of an AR-15s bolt carrier group (or BCG) so that it can fit in the rear barrel. I drew inspiration from the Ruger MK I/IV handgun designs for this pistol. I might separate the holes in the inner slide and bolt about a millimeter to a centimeter in from the holes in the frame that they line up with under recoil to eject the nails and spent cartridge casings. The forward and backward action of the inner slide/boot is powered by two recoil springs, which are attached to four nipples (two on the inner slide face and two on the rear bolt), which use two long, thin springs to strip the nails and cartridge casings from the firing chamber under the recoil of each shot.

To push the bolt back, a magazine is inserted into the bottom, with the follower facing backwards to allow you to insert a clip through the top as the bolt/slide is held back. There is a pointed sight at the end of the front barrel and two wooden pieces that are screwed into the sides of the grip for aesthetic purposes (and to provide a grip, as this guns grip was designed for that). The nail gun and magazine are both facing forward diagonally, as is the grip/mag well, to not only provide a better grip at the top around the trigger, but to also hold it better in the gun. The slot that the magazine goes into the feed is a tight fit for the magazine, which is thin, but just thick enough to accept a .32 caliber cartridge. The nail gun is also thin to provide more space in the mag well without taking up too much to where your grip is too large.

The barrel is rifled with a quarter inch piece off a drill bit with a custom rifling pattern dremeled into the drill bit (after using the sandpaper bit to remove the drilling pattern) on a drill press with a drilling rod long enough to push it all the way through the barrel, using an allen wrench c-clamped and held underneath the table, the barrel is also drilled out using a drill press, the crowning and chambering is done with a dremel, and I’m not too sure what I would use to ream it and lap it.

The bolt and inner slide have a total of 7 holes in them (two underneath to accept the magazine and nail gun into the feed, 2 on the sides at the back for the pins, two on the right side for the nail and cartridge casing extractor and one on the top for inserting the clip, which is also closed when the slide/bolt is at rest).

03bae3  No.678449

Oh yes, and if there’s anything in the pictures that you don’t understand (my handwriting is shit and I just wanted to save the ideas in case I forgot anything later on) just ask me and I’ll explain it to you.

And I apologize for the run-on paragraph, I was just trying to provide as much detail as I could. If there are any criticisms, feel free to share it, because I’m open for debate. I just wanted to use my own ideas for this gun. I chose closed bolt since they’re rarely used in homemade firearms, so I tried to make it the simplest closed bolt possible.


96f9cb  No.678628

Cool shit dude. Get cracking.


03bae3  No.678890

File: bc369947cb26278⋯.jpg (1.98 MB, 4032x3024, 4:3, image.jpg)

>>678628

Here’s the adjusted length of the nail extractor after doing some more thinking. I made it just long enough for another equal sized hole piece to go in front of it.


03bae3  No.678891

Also forgot the second picture. The slide doesn’t go from top-to-bottom, it goes from back-to-front, like a regular gun does. That was my first idea, but after implementing the rear slide design, I figured that was incompatible with this. I figured there probably could be a way to prevent the nails from becoming shrapnel and that would simply be to use a smaller nail.


673213  No.680266

I like it. Make a prototype and let's see it in action - with a look like that, could give the thing some '50s sci-fi flair and make it look like a ray gun.


c84d51  No.680592

File: 06ad997737bf20c⋯.jpg (85.67 KB, 1296x807, 432:269, 61tyran.JPG)

Fusion360 is free to hobbyists. It takes about 3 hours to get the basics down, and 15 hours to get fairly good at the program.

If you design this in 3D space, you'll know the designs flaws better than just sketching.




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