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/k/ - Weapons

Salt raifus and raifu accessories
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There's no discharge in the war!

File: 15bd5321d267384⋯.jpg (3.19 MB, 4032x3024, 4:3, 20180524_090813.jpg)

File: 6a523c186a9a3f9⋯.jpg (2.28 MB, 4032x3024, 4:3, 20180524_090910.jpg)

1c6370 No.581734

Buy anything /k/related, share it here.

Pic related, bought this yesterday for 400 Canadian pesos (tax included in that 400).

Good deal?

d42f80 No.581735

That depends, what is it exactly?

Got a collection started last week, will post pics when I get home.


1c6370 No.581737

File: 84a8144542635e9⋯.jpg (164.33 KB, 800x534, 400:267, 9718370163_78d6c13ffe_c.jpg)

File: 97323de8f42d828⋯.jpg (225.35 KB, 800x450, 16:9, 9718148473_2ab982541f_c.jpg)

File: 7b9faf0eabbddcf⋯.jpg (110.39 KB, 800x533, 800:533, 9718369403_ec29761a72_c.jpg)

Canadian Forces AN/PVS-502 Cold War era Night Vision Scope


1c6370 No.581738

Id like to get my self an A1 style ar to put this on but I'm wondering how you Mount scopes on the carry handle, do you need a special one or some strange mounting hardware?

and does anyone have a recommendation for a good brand triangular handgaurds


d42f80 No.581740

File: b38a6e4d24ed2c0⋯.png (275.79 KB, 559x303, 559:303, ClipboardImage.png)

>>581738

The ACOG and a few other scopes are designed with the ability to be mounted directly on the carry handle. Besides that there are a few companies making Picatinny adapters for carry handles, but that shit's ugly as fugg.

>and does anyone have a recommendation for a good brand triangular handgaurds

http://blackgunswood.com/


de9cdb No.581769

>>581738

>does anyone have a recommendation for a good brand triangular handgaurds

I've got, like four bookmarks to places that make wooden stocks for the AR-15. I'll update sometimes today … I really like mine, but don't have a rifle-length barrel yet to put it on.


91dddd No.581795

Bought a speed holster for my sig, but the thing was riding in a ball joint made of aluminium. Crumbled after the first day. At least I got my money back.

>>581737

Goddamn I really want that. How rare are they? Export restrictions?


34572a No.581854

Got some yugoslav camo in the mail. Will post when they arrive.

>>581795

>Export restrictions?

Probably ITAR if anything. I got in shit for bringing Gen III NV across the border once.


01cd16 No.581976

File: a00445d30c8c99a⋯.jpg (3.01 MB, 4032x3024, 4:3, 20180525_005145.jpg)

File: 68d7289e2637afa⋯.jpg (3.64 MB, 4032x3024, 4:3, 20180525_005501.jpg)

File: 9e9dc4cf84c6edd⋯.jpg (3.92 MB, 4032x3024, 4:3, 20180525_005358.jpg)

>>581735

Got a Sig P226 a couple weeks ago, and just finished putting my AR together.


0cc8e1 No.582822

File: b1c07c9c938984b⋯.jpg (49.84 KB, 724x1092, 181:273, Sight.jpg)

Just ordered a sight-block for a semi-retro build that's percolating.

Turns out, most people on the internet think modifying your barrel to have tapered holes to hold your conventional sight/block in place, is really difficult. I wouldn't know, and have never operated a drill press before either.

So I got pic related: a sight block drilled for set-screws. No special barrel needed.


b0dd90 No.582823

>>582822

People think dimpling a barrel is bad because it disturbs the finish, so therefore nobody should ever do it.


d42f80 No.582826

>>582823

>People think dimpling a barrel is bad because it disturbs the finish, so therefore nobody should ever do it.

Personally I just don't bother with it because set screws can have issues keeping the gas block in place, dimpling or no dimpling. Clamp-on, or better yet pinning the GB, are far more secure.


0cc8e1 No.582831

>>582823

Nah, man the stuff I read talked about technical expertise needed to get the taper just right.

>>582826

>Clamp-on

Hmm, so that hold it tighter than sinking a set screw into a dimple? I've got a barrel that keeps shaking all the screws loose, and I've had the block walk out on me once, rendering my rifle a single-shot.

I'd assumed, though, that clamp-on was even chintzier than a dimple/flat screw. But this uses, I think, pointy screws at each of the four corners.


01cd16 No.582833

>>582831

http://www.militarymorons.com/weapons/ar.optics2.html

Scroll down a bit and you'll see a clamp-on gas block being torque-tested after being fired for a bit. They applied enough torque to snap off the barrel pin and the gas block still showed no signs of movement. The thing about clamp-ons is that you've got a lot more surface area gripping the barrel–the gap between the barrel and the gas block is already paper thin before tightening, and once you've got the bolts locked down every square inch of the gas block is hugging the barrel and preventing movement. With set screws all of the retaining force is concentrated on the points of those set screws–and even if the net force is the same, the minimal contact area makes the set screw block much more prone to shifting.


b0dd90 No.582837

>>582833

>use unnamed(probably Anderson/PSA) upper

>use unnamed barrel with A2 FSB removed

>decide to use friction because that's clearly comparable to the barrel flexing and whipping around while the gun fires

>barrel index pin snaps UNEXPECTEDLY

and to top it all off

>all images require you to log in before you can see it at standard resolution so you can earn them money before seeing what they're doing

Retarded backwoods hick science at its best, cheers for the link.


01cd16 No.582861

>>582837

username and password are both 'mm', my bad.


01cd16 No.582864

>>582837

>>582861

In any case, regardless of how much stock you put into this particular test, in general clamps are a better solution over set screws. You get better stress distribution, there's more force total holding the clamp-on in place, and you get a tighter gas seal. Pinning the gas block is obviously more secure than either, but also overkill.


3a000b No.582874

>>581734

What's the date of manufacture and did they give you anything indicating how many operational hours it had? AFAIK the PVS-4/PVS-502 have a MTTF of around 2,500 operation hours.


125d08 No.582937

>>582822

Should be fairly simple with the correct taper reamer. The reaming could be done by hand or machined, and wouldn't be much trouble. Just go down the taper and check the fit every few turns. Good reamers aren't cheap, but a cheap one would probably do alright for a one-off job if you can find one and make sure it is to spec.




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