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Salt raifus and raifu accessories
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There's no discharge in the war!

File: 89728e1db282030⋯.jpg (12.34 KB, 510x190, 51:19, colt.jpg)

9f10ee No.533870

/k/ could you recommend me a beginners guide or point me towards a good rifle and ammo? I have been looking at the colt le6940 but I have been wondering if I can get better deals?

Side note: whats also a good chest rig to go with the rifle or so on?

37fe71 No.533872

>>533870

colt is the apple of the firearms industry. go with a ruger ar556 or S&W MP15.

>chest rig

gear is a harder one to answer. that has a lot to do with personal preference.go check out garandthumb's video and get a feel for whats out there or look at condor shit and buy cheap so you can figure out what you want, THEN look for high end versions of the same thing.


9f10ee No.533874

>>533872

So by apple you mean standard or just plain shit?


37fe71 No.533876

>>533874

overpriced for what it is.


03f16e No.533877

K A C

A

C


3f2f41 No.533888

Pantac makes pretty decent value-for-shekels stuff gear-wise, but Condor isn't the worst thing ever if you're an absolute poorfag.


ed76e5 No.533897

File: eea33492886574e⋯.png (1.51 MB, 1497x2126, 1497:2126, gunsforpoorpeoplenorebate.png)

Pic related for gun. Ruger AR556 is good, but virtually always higher price than the S&W with no benefit except maybe 1 in 8 twist.

Right now PSA's sales give 4 good options

http://palmettostatearmory.com/psa-16-carbine-length-5-56-nato-1-7-phosphate-freedom-rifle-kit.html

(300 USD) The absolute cheapest you will pay for a working rifle, but you need to buy a lower (30-60 at your local FFL), a punch set, and rear sight (also kits don't come with mags). You'll spend around 400 depending on your rear sight and lower cost (and you'll have a very useful punch set). This is the only thing that's not their year-round price.

http://palmettostatearmory.com/psa-16-midlength-5-56-nato-1-7-nitride-moe-ept-rifle-kit-rear-mbus-516444983.html

(360) Nicer furniture and rear sight included. If you're using your raifuru for home defense you'll want at least this because m-lok is so much better for attaching a light to than milspec handguards. Comes to about 430 assembled.

http://palmettostatearmory.com/psa-16-5-56-nato-1-7-mid-length-nitride-13-5-lightweight-keymod-moe-ept-rifle-kit-516447145.html

(420) Freefloat (more accurate, can rest it barriers without effecting aim). Unfortunately it's Keymod (which is like mlok but not quite as good) instead of m-lok, but they rotate sales daily and they frequently have mlok versions for the same price (Ideally you want a nitride barrel and mlok handguard with a QD slingpoint built in, though chrome barrels and now sling point built in works)

http://palmettostatearmory.com/psa-16-mid-length-nitride-moe-ept-freedom-rifle-with-rear-mbus-flat-dark-earth-516446841.html

(460+transfer fee) Pretty comparable to the Ruger and S&W offerings, but with one big advantage: Mid-length gas system! Mid length gas lets you attach a bayonet (carbine length+16 inch has a lug but it's too far back for a bayonet to attach) and drive liberals nuts (It also reduces recoil and parts wear). Comes with a mag.

Another alternative that's currently on sale (and not listed in the guide because that's not normal price) is a brownells prebuilt upper. It's freefloat with keymod and $234 after coupon code MDK (which is 10% off+free ship everything on Brownells).

https://gun.deals/product/brownells-ar-15-complete-upper-receiver-black-keymod-556-30499-after-code-l3v

You need a lower parts kit+lower OR a fully assembled lower. PSA's is on sale for 100+free ship.

http://palmettostatearmory.com/moe-lower-build-kit-black.html

With a lower and punches it will come to ~405 assembled, but does not include sights. Sight sets aren't cheap.

If you have 200 (plus shipping) bucks and don't intend of a different optic, this is worth adding to any of the above

http://palmettostatearmory.com/vortex-sparc-red-dot-scope-ten-magpul-pmag-30-magazines.html

10 good mags (though Magpul's gen 3 are better) and a very solid entry red dot.

Ammo is harder as it depends on what you're looking for. For practice ammo American Eagle is good, reasonably accurate and very reliable. It currently has a rebate going on till the end of the year (Check gun.deals to find good sales on it). Defensive ammo is in the guide (Horrnady is also launching a Critical Defense for rifles early next year. Should be good if they don't blow it.)

As for gear, if you want cheap

https://www.varusteleka.com/en/product/us-lbv-e-woodland-surplus/2792

https://www.varusteleka.com/en/product/us-alice-pistol-belt-surplus/234 (If it won't fit you, don't worry. Plenty of ones from other sources for an ALICE belt in bigger sides)

34+10 flat shipping is pretty good for 6 mags+2 grenades at good quality. You can throw a pair of Alice mag pouches (they're also on Varusteleka, but Amazon and other American sources have them cheaper for 5.50 each) for 3 mags each (12 mags is far more than enough).

And to make it complete

https://www.varusteleka.com/en/product/us-alice-canteen-pouch-surplus/10292 (canteen holders. Get 2)

https://www.varusteleka.com/en/product/finnish-water-bottle-1-l/1710 (canteen. Get 2)

For 73 bucks that's pretty solid. ALICE clips tend to poke you though, which is the main flaw of the system. If you really want to go all the way, throw in an ALICE Pack

https://www.varusteleka.com/en/product/us-alice-medium-pack-with-frame-woodland-surplus/1306

and water bladder (Varusteleka also has these for slightly better than Amazon prices) and you're set to go inawoods (short of stuff put in the backpack).

>>533876

And they both hate you.


37fe71 No.533922

>>533897

oh yall finally got done witht he pic. about time i save that


cd099a No.533927

>>533870

I'm assuming you want a good price without investing $100 or so for tools to build. Just buy a prebuilt lower, any will work but you may want to keep it in the back of your head that you may want a trigger upgrade at some point. Buy from a reputable company like ruger or even BCM if you have an extra bill to spare, should be around the low 300s without deals and sales.

From there buy a complete upper, check on primary arms or PSA for deals on good quality uppers all year long. Prices should be around 3-400 for a nice one of course the price will change depending on how much shit is on there like wheather or not it comes with the bolt carrier and charging handle or even the iron sights. Last I checked primary arms had a troy upper with bolt carrier, charging handle, and a pair of flip up sights for $400. For budget stuff check bear creek arsenal and radical firearms. don't take my word as I'm not totally sure but I believe the regular military style uppers (triangular front sight and two piece plastic hand guards) are about $100 more expensive than a free float rail upper in many cases so just get the tacticool one it'll let you slap on a light or bipod with way less hassle


ed76e5 No.534073

>>533927

>100

I've done plenty of lowers with just punches and masking tape. A vice is nice to have but it's perfectly doable without one.


8e053b No.534098

>>533870

>le6920

Don't. It's crazy expensive, for that same amount of money you could build a much better AR, which you should do anyway because it's fun and you'll learn your way around the thing. I would recommend getting high quality parts the first time so you don't need to replace anything. First step should be to head to your local gun shop and pick up an Anderson stripped lower receiver, blemished is fine. That's the part that's considered the firearm and the only one that you'll have to go through an FFL and potentially wait some period of time; the rest of the parts you can order to your doorstep.


441387 No.534103

>>534073

I've done it with channel locks, tape, and harbor freight punches too but I'm including average costs for upper tools like a magpul bev block and armorer's wrench and torque wrench and shipping costs assuming your gun shops are as kike as mine and purposefully don't stock tools because they want money from gun smithing services but at the same time want out of the AR market.


8393df No.534135

>>534098

> I would recommend getting high quality parts the first time so you don't need to replace anything

>pick up an Anderson stripped lower receiver

You contradicted yourself, anon.


ed76e5 No.534139

>>534135

You can't fuck up a lower if it's aluminum.


cd099a No.534158

>>534135

Arguably the only parts you should really splurge on (rifle internals only not optics) are the bolt itself, the fire control group, and the barrel. Even then if you just want a range blaster/home defense/chimpout gun you're just fine with a cheaper barrel (made by a company with good QC of course) seeing as you'll be burning through thousands of round of cheap brass and likely even steel shit for much cheaper practice ammo. No point spending $300+ for some pencil weight carbon fiber reinforced barrel to blast away for something that isn't competition.


c24261 No.534184

>>534135

Lowers are the least important and least differentiated part of an AR15. A company has to try very hard to fuck them up. As long as it's actually milspec, a $20 aluminum lower is going to do the same thing for your gun as a $120 lower. Same thing with an upper and buffer tube, and the various lower parts.

What matters are barrel, bolt, trigger. Everything is just ergonomics (which do matter).


ed76e5 No.534259

YouTube embed. Click thumbnail to play.

>>534184

Pretty much the only possible improvement you can make to a bog standard aluminum lower is embed related.

>What matters are barrel, bolt, trigger. Everything is just ergonomics (which do matter).

Assuming you're not counting magazines and optics/sights as part of the rifle your handguard does matter. It's primarily the boolean "is it freefloated", but durability, heat absorption from sunlight, and weight (possibly zero repeat on front sight but there's little reason to remove the handguard) can vary wildly depending on which one. Of course this variance is primarily because this is the only part that doesn't have a "milspec".




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