/k/ - Weapons

>>509754

I want to get into reloading but am not sure how to start. Is there a package I can buy that has all the equipment I need?

I really want to reload my 300 win mag. How do the powders work? Are some powders more potent than others? What kind of powder do American manufacturers like Hornady or Remington use?

>>509771

Hornady and Lee have all in one kits.

>How do the powders work?

Follow the book to a T unless you actually can do the math for making a safe load. So if it says use X amount of powder with Y Grain of bullet of Z type, you follow that. If you don't well don't blame me for any damage that may occur.

>What kind of powder do American manufacturers like Hornady or Remington use?

Never mind what they're using in factory ammunition, you're gonna be making match-tier loads.

>>509771

Craigslist. No really. Used reloading stuff is plentiful.

>>509771

shoot first so you can use flying brass to reload

Current loads:

.357: 4 gr AS-30 (red dot)/ 158gr lyman 358477 SWC, 1200/12 barrel

>Designed as a paper puncher and gong ringer, no more no less.

.44 mag: 22gr AR2205 (H110)/ lyman 429421 lyman SWC, 1400/18" barrel (my rifle has a long as fuck forcing cone)

>The Elmer Keith special, he used it to fuck up every animal in North America.

45/70: 36gr AR2205 (IMR 4198)/ LEE 457-450-F, 1400fps/18" barrel

>Load based off of 500 grain load in Lee handloading book, mid-strength 45-70 load that provides plenty of power without strain, very clean load with right bullet lube and precise for cartridge. Will likely be my pigging load.

>>509771

My recommendation for a starter is to save up your pennies and buy a lee turret kit, includes press scales book and other nifty things. Add dies and you're off.

>>509932

ok. what are dies?

>>509947

The things that sit in the press and push the lead thingamajigs into the brass thingamajigs. Buy a reloading manual and read it back and forth twice before you touch a press to load.

>>509958

suggestion on manual, or just the latest hornady one?

>>509971

The Hornady kit comes with the book and if I recall so does the Lee one.

>>509754

Currently loading 300WSM (110gr HP and 208gr ELD) and 300BLK (110gr HP and 235gr cast lead), intending on buying dies for 9mm and 45acp soon.

>>509771

>How do the powders work? Are some powders more potent than others?

Powders have different burn rates which makes them suitable for different applications, slow burning powders are suitable for long barreled rifles while fast burning powders are for handguns. The fastest burning powder is for shotguns.

Loading rifle powder into handgun rounds results in a big fireball and low muzzle velocity, loading pistol or shotgun powder into rifle rounds results in you making a trip to the ER for chest x-rays and surgery.

Get a loading guide and follow it closely, look up videos of experienced handloaders to get started.

>Is there a package I can buy that has all the equipment I need?

If all you want to do is small volume stuff (considering you said 300WM I suspect this is the case), then a single stage press is fine. I started off with a Lee Classic set which has everything you need to get started except for dies, I recommend getting a set of the Lee quick change collets with it as well.

>>509947

Dies are forming tools, a set has several that each do a specific task.

Deprime and resize die - knocks the spent primer out and resizes the case to proper dimensions.

Bullet seating die - pushes the bullet into the case to a specific depth

Crimp die - only really needed on semi-auto guns, forms a crimp around the case mouth to tightly hold the bullet in place

>>509971

Get a manual that's made by a powder manufacturer (preferable the one which makes the powder you intend to use). I use ADI powder so I have the ADI guide.

>>509982

My Lee kit didn't come with one, the die kits do though.

>>509771

If you only have one 300 WM rifle get a neck sizing die instead of a full body sizing die. The neck sizing die will let your brass live longer. And spend money on good lube, imperial wax appears to be king.

>>510008

>>510074

What effect does the primer have on the finished cartridge?

>>510008

>Loading rifle powder into handgun rounds results in a big fireball and low muzzle velocity, loading pistol or shotgun powder into rifle rounds results in you making a trip to the ER for chest x-rays and surgery.

Caveat: You CAN stick pistol powder into a rifle case but at much reduced levels.

Sticking ~4 grains of red dot behind a greased up 00 buck ball on top of a .308 case equals a near silent load.

http://guns.connect.fi/gow/arcane1.html

And loading small charges of rifle powder is responsible for blowups, though P.O Ackley could never get a blowup from a really low level of shotgun powder.

TL;DR DON'T FUCK AROUND WITH ELDRITCH SHIT IF YOU'RE A NEWFAG.

If I'm coming into reloading fresh, should I get the hornady lock n load ap, or save up a bit more for dillon xl650? Also, which manufacturer is putting out the best dies? I've heard of redding putting out good stuff, but don't know for sure.

>>510282

Do you like your press in red or blue?

I personally love my dillon xl650, but it needs a race bearing under the shell plate to work properly and the priming system can be a finicky cunt of a thing of you don't have alignment. You'll need a case feeder for either machine and primer warning beepers, because loading casings manually in a progressive can suck a fuck and it's shit as to run out of primers in the middle of a long session. The upshot of buying a dillon is that once set up and maintained, it farts out boolits faster than most cunts can shoot them- 500 an hour is achievable if you keep loaded primer magzaines nearby.

If you want a fine machine for the price, buy the LnL, case loader and primer beeper and don't look back. If you're like me and piss away .38 like it's water in a monsoon you go for a XL650 or a 1050.

If you want a machine that's completely idiot proof and hard to fuck up, go for the turret press I suggested earlier, comes with book, powder scales and tools, and lee dies come with the shellplate you need. AFAIK lee progressives are supposed to be garbage tier.

Here's a shopping list of what you will need for your bullet making.

>Press

>Caliber kit (Dillon sells pre-set presses to your caliber)

>Caliber dies (search ebay for .300 Win Mag dies in your case)

>Powder measure

>Powder scales

>Case trim die

>Case trim tool

>GOOD calipers, minimum .001" accuracy

>Current reloading book

>Micrometer

>Powder, primer, brass and bullets.

Skimp on none of this as ALL of this is essential.

>>510074

>200gr 308 that's a hair under the magic 1150fps

Delicious.

You're absolutely right about the "cowboy" powder, because you can use it without dacron wadding to keep the powder in place. I don't use it on my 45/70 300gr AP100 load though and seem to have no problems so far.

>>509932

>AR2205

Fuck

Meant AR2207, put 36gr ar2205 under a 500 grain pill and you're up for an allahu snackbar.

>>511324

Rate of combustion gives a significant error circle. As does powder temperature, compactness, position, or ambient temperature/pressure.

"Supersonic" also isnt a good term, because sipersonic speed has significant (5-10%) error region around it known as transonic where a boom can theoretically occur.

Thats why Russians go as low as 250m/s just to be on the safe side. Its still just as deadly, its more important that no betraying shockwave forms.

Do not try to edge it JUST under supersonic.

>>510431

As far as the calipers and micrometer go, don't skimp out. Mitutoyo or Starrett hand tools will last you for the rest of your life.

A long time ago, I bought a lee one-caliber kit, and it recommended a few powders that would work with it.

So I got hodson H414, and 147gr BTSP nosler projectiles, and loaded one scoop of powder. I played a bit with how close to the top, and how deep to seat the bullet. One round didn't 'shake' … bullet was holding the powder down. That one I didn't fire, but the friend that did, could tell where in the magazine it was, not even knowing it was the 'special' round … kicked like a mule, out of five rounds of .308W using a steel plate to transfer recoil.

It's fun to tell people I reloaded using only a hammer. I mean, it's all safe but there's that one moment when you're smacking a live round with an honest to goodness hammer.

I don't know what my OAL was, or muzzle velocity. That required tools, and I was dirt poor. Accuracy was okay for the ranges I could find, which were probably never more than 50yd shots.

I haven't taken that kit out in forever, and it turns out all the parts have rusted and can't ever be used again.

For the remaining projectiles, I'm planning on using in my new AR chambered in 7.62x39.

Tl;Dr: asking for loads for 7.62 russian, any application, or 6.5 grendel because that's my next project … hoping to go extreme long-range with it. Someday.

>>511473

Would you like me to get the relevant pages out of my second edition Modern Reloader by Richard Lee for you?

>>511485

A name and author has been measurably helpful, actually. Thank you.

>>511486

Also to let you know 7.62x39 and 7.62x51 have different bullet diameters. x39 measures out to .310/311 where is x51 is .308

>>511487

AKA, "slug your bore!"

It might work, as this is an AR, not a surplus AK. I'll try a few rounds, see if they fly straight. Using bullets too small shouldn't result in a dangerous situation, and I don't have any idea where to get enough "dead soft lead" to get a proper measurement.

Also I currently still lack a micrometer. It's on the agenda, I just don't have one right now.

>>511488

All x39 bores are built to .310/311 with the exception of the earlier Mini-30's which Ruger figured a x39 was .308 instead of the .310/311 which lead to some really poor accuracy with all commercial x39, didn't help those guns had pencil thin barrels at the time as well.

>Using bullets too small shouldn't result in a dangerous situation

Your accuracy just suffers, when people reload 6.5 Carcano they think using a .264 bullet is fine and dandy when in reality it needs a .268 bullet, same goes for worn down Arisaka's in 6.5.

>dead soft lead

Wheel weights or fishing sinkers.

>>511473

I love love love those little 1 caliber kits. i made 400 rounds of my 45-70 from one with a powder measure and calipers alongside. Got good accuracy out of it too. They are really nice for fucking around with random loads.

>>511324

I hope you know the speed of sound varies depending on altitude and humidity, norwaybro.

>>511331

I guess it's time to take a long step back.

>>511506

>I hope you know the speed of sound varies depending on altitude and humidity, norwaybro.

I know. I was using a kestrel and ballistics app to determine it.

>>511583

Looks good except you loading fucking .40Stupid&Worthless.

YES BULLY

>>511583

At least that die set can also be used for 10mm

>>511583

Buy a dillon one and adapt it to your press.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?8263-Adaptg-Dillon-Low-Primer-Warning-to-Hornady-L-N-L

Frankford arsenal is ok for calipers, you can do a lot worse. You haven't really fucked up anywhere except buying 40Shit&Weak, why didn't you spring for a 10mm you glass wristed babby

>>511583

Instead of a tumbler have you considered a ultrasonic cleaner? it doesn't polish as much as a tumbler but it can be used for general gun part cleaning as well.

Drying out the cases is easy, just them in the oven for an hour or so at 110C (212F). Brass doesn't begin to anneal until 260C (500F) so its safe to do it.

Also while the LnL is a nice press, if you want to get started sooner the Lee Anniversary kit has everything you need

(except dies and calipers) and its only $123USD https://www.amazon.com/Lee-Precision-Anniversary-Challenger-Kit/dp/B00162RM3E

Sure, its only a single stage press but you start saving money right away, then you can buy a nice turret press later down the line.

>>511728

>Looking at it, it seems significantly more expensive.

You can get cheap ultrasonic cleaners, you don't need an expensive one.

I use one that looks almost identical to this one

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2L-Stainless-Steel-Commercial-Ultrasonic-Cleaner-w-Timer-Heater-Jewelry-Watch-/112487280286?epid=25005692005&hash=item1a30c3ae9e:g:D8EAAOSwD5BZby7U

>Are there any benefits to justify the greater cost?

Ultrasonic will get brass clean but wont polish them, a tumbler will polish but will often leave crud on the inside (especially with rifle brass).

What does /k/ think of the 45 raptor, that I just ran across?

Also, what is the preferred way to change the brass? Parent cartridge is the .308W, then you straighten it until it's a pistol cartridge, and load as per .460 S&W Magnum.

Jam a rod in and roll the shell around? surely you can't fireform that much difference…?

According to the article I just read, you can use .460 dies. I assume that also means you could use a .460 reamer to make your own barrel from a GMrifle blank, right?

…lastly, has anyone in this thread made their own barrel to go with the ammo they're making…?

>>512089

>Parent cartridge is the .308W

No its not, the parent case is the 460S&W. Its literally a 460 case that's had it's rim machined off.

Its similar in dimensions to .308 which is why it works in AR10s with just a barrel swap, but the case is a slightly larger diameter and straight walled.

>I assume that also means you could use a .460 reamer to make your own barrel from a GMrifle blank, right?

Probably

>>512126

>No its not, the parent case is the 460S&W. Its literally a 460 case that's had it's rim machined off.

bleh. After some searching to prove you wrong, I've proven me wrong.

Still, I don't have that much .308 brass lying around so maybe its not so much of a loss. A couple companies make virgin brass with the rebated rim, so it shouldn't be that expensive to get into reloading for the 45 raptor.

Still. I am disappoint.

Off to see what caliber I could fit if I did straighten out a .308W … maybe I can get a barrel to fit that.

>>512134

I've done this. I shaved off the neck of a .308 to make a 44 cartridge with a projected 1900 fps for a 300gr projectile.

So I've heard putting a 30 carbine bullet in a 30-06 case can make a stupidly fast bullet. Is this true? Will it beat level 4 armor?

>>521030

My reloading manual states a 57gr bullet will go just under 4000fps and a 110gr will sit at 3500 or so.

>>521038

Is that enough to penetrate level 4 armor?

>>521043

Couldn't say. I'm not going out back to wreck a perfectly good ceramic plate and I can't find anything on raw FPS to penetration value.

Currently loading a keith 358429 projectile sized at .359" over 13.7 grains AR2205 in .38 special brass, at 1.5" OAL. Original load was 13.5 2400 under the same.

This theoretically should be slightly lower pressure due to a slower burning powder.

>>521374

The nastier of the bunch are scrap. My SVT mangles my handloads. If you're wanting a chance at salvageable brass find a buffer. This video might give you an idea how to salvage the rest.

what else can i do with casings other than reloading ? signed brassjew

How is surplus x54r more expensive than new production 303?

>>521842

import laws, shipping.

>>521842

Syrians are digging into that supply therefore causing more demand.

It's time to throw my hat in with the big guys.

I'm switching to .260Rem from .308.

What are some things to consider when necking down a whole bunch of brass?

>>521957

You might end up with necks too thick if you're not careful or you're gonna ruin brass if you use too much/little lube. Not to mention it may only be good for one or two loads.

has anybody used quickload to make wild & crazy reload recipes? By the look of it, H110 will work for all three calibers I'm interested in, albeit not perfect for any of them, but okay.

(7.62x39, 6.5grendel, & .277 Wolverine, all pushing heavy BTSP north of 2K fps, details dependent on particulars)

I don't have the software here so I can't post what it ended up looking like, but I thought H110 was a bit 'slow' for things like the grendel .. just crimp extra tight and use heavy bullets to make up for it…?

IOW, how closely does that software emulate real life?

>>522008

Provided you enter all variables EXACTLY and don't fudge or use any typical case data, pretty fucking close- +/- 5%.

Remember to water weigh at least one case per batch so you know what to punch into quickload. Also, don't be that retard who puts in a load within 5% of the max PSI and wonders why he has a broken gun.

Any suggestions for a budget setup for loading 6.5 carcano and .310 cadet,

I was looking at the kits from lee and Hornady that just need dies but im unsure if they are worth the money

>>523095

For 6.5 Spaghetti nigger find a .268 bullet, don't use a .264

On the topic, are you talking about the kits that come with everything you need minus dies or the basic you just need a mallet and die? The first is worth the money if you're doing 100-500 or so rounds a batch, if you plan on loading more than that a batch I recommend picking up a turreted press. If you're doing maybe 50-100 the latter is appropriate.

>>523095

The little lee hammer kits are an excellent way to learn handloading- dirt cheap, and you can shove it in a drawer after you are done. You will need a rubber mat or a robust table, and I recommend a powder measure of some form to speed loading and aid consistency.

Really nice to pack in a SHTF kit too, so you still get a use out of it obce you decide to move to turret or progressive

RCBS > Hornady > Lee

>>523330

>>523383

I was originally looking at the lee hammer kits but couldn't find any in 6.5 Carcano anywhere (I've only see them for 6.5 swede)

any suggestions on the press kits? i was looking at the lee 50th anniversary breech lock challenger kit or the Hornady iron press kit but i'm not sure if its worth the extra money,

https://m.ebay.com.au/itm/Lee-Precision-Reloading-Value-4-Hole-Turret-Press-Reloading-Kit-90928-/311841916785?epid=901255818&hash=item489b3a0771%3Ag%3AGLQAAOSwDmBY56BO&_trkparms=pageci%253A12f765df-b2b4-11e7-8616-74dbd1804ed7%257Cparentrq%253A26f690a415f0ab10a8158c99fffaaefe%257Ciid%253A10

Get this and some dies and some GOOD calipers.

What media do you guys use for tumbling? If I were to get into reloading one day I might go with stainless steel media.

>>523465

hmm? I thought "media" in this context referred to things like sand, crushed walnuts, saw dust … not metal shards.

I remember reading in somebody's short article that it really doesn't matter, so long as it doesn't scratch your brass, and can absorb any oils or water that happen to be there because shut up that's why.

If you need to sand blast your media first (also a big why) that should be a separate step from your tumbling step.

>>523395

>>523449 is good advice.

>>523483

Stainless steel bits work wonders when cleaning brass and they're reusable.

>>524366

I got a set of hornady dies for my 6.5, personally speaking your load book will tell you exactly what you need and never ever fucking stray from it unless you do know what you're doing. You won't be needing to buy factory loaded stuff, your handloads can and will out perform them. Slug your arisaka though, if its bore is worn down the .268 bullets for a carcano will improve accuracy, but for now stick to the book stuff and see how it groups at the range.

>>524452

try killing yourself

>>524452

Ebay, your local gun-store etc.

Pick up a book like the Lyman reloading book and read the how to reload section twice before you buy anything else.

anyone ever had experience buying reloading shit on black friday? Are there ever truly good discounts?

>>510431

will different brand dies work in a different brand press? Like RCBS dies in a Dillon 550B?

>>528609

Almost always, as I understand it.

>>528602

Know what they normally go for, and go for it. It IS true that some companies will slowly ramp prices up in preparation for the holiday season, but even if the sale just brings it to normal prices, one way you can't lose is "free shipping"

>>528612

I think I'm going to jump in head first and go straight to the Dillon 550.

>>528662

>Dillon 550

>why.jpg

You could get the xl650 and be done with it.

>>528665

I'm kinda scared of all that automation, I want to be in full control

>>528730

How are you not in control?

You control the OAL, the primer tube and powder and crimping like normal. All you need to do is add a bullet after every stroke, which is one up and one back to prime it. It's a hell of a lot faster and safer than manual indexing- it is impossible to double charge a case with an automatic progressive press. If you don't want to feed primers anymore (end of batch) you undo one screw on the body to detach the advancing knob and you are done.

The 550 is a waste.

>>528859

OK, I'm going to go with the 650

How do I buy. Straight from Dillon? I assume that since they're the elite brand, they don't do discounts.

>>528860

Since you live in burgertown, you can just order directly. The other option is to check your gun store or check ebay.

Word of advice- do one case at a time and disable primer advancing if this is your first press. You really should be doing this every time you change your load, as different bullets will give different results.

Reactivate primer advance after you've nutted out your load and start farting out rounds faster than your mother chases cock.