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There's no discharge in the war!

File: 0a9374111637573⋯.jpg (10.51 KB, 260x260, 1:1, opplanet-lee-precision-cla….jpg)

9f0c94  No.619752

Looked through the catalogue and no thread on handloading/reloading. I'm getting set up to start reloading for the first time in 9mm and 308. I bought pic related (on sale for $190), dies, calipers, a tumbler, and some perishables like federal match primers and norma brass. Anyone have some beginners advice or recommendations on powders and loads for 168gr 308?

46ca2b  No.619762

YouTube embed. Click thumbnail to play.

>>619752

> Anyone have some beginners advice or recommendations on powders and loads for 168gr 308?

Follow the fucking book, do not deviate from the book. Since you're new doing the latter will fuck you. There are some fancy programs out there that will do most of the complicated math involved with making your own load and such but until you've become comfortable with loading and that means being able to not accidentally yourself with a double load or wrong weight of bullet. Double check everything.

This guy is a pretty good example of what to do.


bea694  No.619767

>>619752

just be careful, anon.


0f64f4  No.619780

>>619752

I had a glorious long big block post about advice to first time reloaders on this here board, too lazy to type a new one. Other poster was right, the smartest reloaders are dumber than the reloading books. Make sure you read a basic primer on reloading, not just have a loadbook. Check your powder loads, always throw on the safe side, if you use a powder dumper do spot checks to make sure its throwing the same, never changing. Make sure you have a reliable MANUAL scale to go with any digital scales. Get a powder trickler to finish off higher end loads, they are a great tool. MAXIMUM LOADS ARE NOT SUGGESTIONS, THEY ARE MAXIMUMS. When using slow burning rifle powders NEVER go below minimum loads, there are phenomena where underloaded cases will have massive catastrophic pressure spikes. Take your time, be careful. There's always time to make sure the loads are safe, never enough time to pick up the pieces of a broken gun, especially if its in your jaw.

Not all bullets of the same weight will use similar loads, this is one that slips by a lot of people. 168 grain what? There are many, many 168 grain jacketed bullets for 308, with enough bearing surface and shapes and designs that loading data and results will be different for each. If you can't find data for the exact bullet you have in your current literature, FIND IT. There are little books for many calibers that have specific data for the caliber, http://www.loadbooks.com/ will give you most loads from most manufacturers. Keep in mind different cases might have different case capacities, military brass can be thick enough to limit the total interior capacity and require smaller powder charges. Look a the reloading data and the primer being used, modern primers are generally consistent, but keep in mind changes in cases and especially primers from the book data can cause enough pressure changes at maximum and hotter loads it can make the difference. Remember that even powders that are similarily named and one may even be based on the older similar name powder, they are NOT interchangable. IMR 4350 and H4350 are not the same gunpowder.

Work up loads, start at the suggested minimum and work your way up. Every gun is different and will like a different bullet or load than other guns. Try different powders, try different loads throughout the spectrum, load 5 or 10 rounds at a certain powder charge and shoot them and compare them to other 5-10 round lots you load and check performance. If primers get flattened or blown out, or you see other high pressure signs at hotter loads, quit and go back to downloading. If you have a chronograph use it while testing, compare suggested velocity for the load to what you are shooting, then consider other factors like barrel length. If velocity is extremely different, might be sign something is wrong. Shoot from a lead slead or sand bags and shoot paper to check your groups when possible.

In your personal case, start with 308, rifle is the best way to learn. It teaches you patience and quality. Also 9mm Luger is one of the worst to reload, even old handloaders don't like it because of headspacing and crimping issues with its taper case. It sucks for old hands, its not what you should be learning the ropes with. Dial your dies in carefully and respect the listed OAL.


07abd0  No.619820

>>619752

Document everything. Everything from the primer to the bullet. Once you figure out your guns favorite food, you want to keep the recipe.

Next, Verify everything. Ensure you dies are tight, not just snug, and is at the proper depth. Always inspect brass, as it does a limit on how far it can be reloaded. Ensure the primers get seated correctly with no gaps whatsoever. Ensure the press shapes the cartridge to the proper length. Ensure a consistent amount of powder is poured.


4421d1  No.619851

>>619762

>>619780

Thanks for the advice. I've done my fair shair of reading on things like basic safety procedures and such, and plan to read all the manuals cover to cover once they come in the mail before I start any of the real work, but I was curious as to the qualities and characteristics of different powders for a similar purpose. For example, Hodgdon's website recommends 5 different powders for mid weight 308 loads, and both the powder and projectile manufacturers have data for loading several different powders with a particular projectile. I wanted to know if anyone would recommend a specific powder over the others, like "buy xxx over yyy, because it burns cleaner/more consistently/less affected by temperature." so I can know what to start with or stock up on.


bea694  No.619958

it would be nice to know the basics of what you need to reload.


46ca2b  No.619961

>>619851

Read the book and buy 1lb kegs of X powder and see what works for your gun.

>>619958

Lee handloader, a mallet, primers/bullets/powder applicable to what you're loading. Safety gear like goggles is recommended in the even you somehow fuck a primer up or for whatever reason are smoking in the room. Pro tip don't smoke near powder. This is honestly the most basic set up possible.

If you've got the cash a single stage press kit that comes with everything you probably need is a great step above.


c4b897  No.619966

>>619752

The lee load book is good for learning to reload but the data is pretty limited. Don't fuck yourself by buying two or three other load books if you're only reloading one or two cartridges, you can buy a paper back load book that compiles data tables from 5 (or more can't remember and it also depends on how obscure the round you want is) of the popular load books into one 5-10 dollar booklet (down side is that it looks ghetto as fuck). Rip that fucking auto index bullshit from that lee turret press, they use a tiny bullshit plastic bit that's prone to breaking thats the heart of the auto index and no you cant just slap a washer or other fiddly bit in there if it breaks. Also you're a beginner so being able to move to the next step when YOU want to is probably the best way to avoid double loading or trying to seat a bullet into a case that's already been crimped.

Reloading robotically (not being constantly aware of small details like the feeling of the ram and just going through the motions) is a good way to fuck up just as badly as watching tv for something other than background noise.

Don't watch tv while reloading.


b19070  No.620080

File: b5a1818e43c7072⋯.jpg (3.83 MB, 5312x2988, 16:9, 20180807_211447_noexif.jpg)

>>619966 (checked)

>Don't watch tv while reloading.

Unless you're experienced and know what you're doing

t. Strelok who loads about 1000 rounds a month




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