9ac2e7 No.525317
Challenge: Make this gun not shitty.
The plan: File and sand out the pitting, bring it to a factory finish. Hot blue the barrel and metal parts. Color case hardening on the receiver. Replace the wood. Replace the front sight with a brass bead. (Bubba put a screw where the front sight should be like the coach gun in Fallout New Vegas. This is really going to suck
9ac2e7 No.525318
Bubba had his shitty homemade stock held on with a piece of all thread and a nut. One of the internal parts was shimmed with a piece of brass. That'll be fun trying to figure out when I reassemble it. I checkered a stock for a Winchester 1200/1300 that I don't need anymore, so I'm going to inlet it for this gun. The first thing I need to do is machine an inletting guide. I anymore Los am going to machine some new screws and pins for this gun eventually.
9ac2e7 No.525319
>>525318
*also
Not anymore Los, fucking phone.
9ac2e7 No.525320
I threaded a piece of drill rod as an inletting guide. Unfortunately, bubba tapped the back of the receiver crooked so my guide rod is tilted at an angle. This is a problem since my inletting will end up crooked if I use that guide. I ended up having to heat up the guide rod with an oxy acetylene torch and straighten it out. Next up is the milling machine to get the inletting started.
5a1c46 No.525321
>>525317
Get that stuff from Brownells that'll eat the shit out of what is left of the bluing and all the rust. It'll make rebluing so much easier.
9ac2e7 No.525331
>>525321
Naval jelly and bluing remover is fine if your metal is in decent shape and you're basically just going to strip the old bluing and put it straight into the tank. Since my metal is pitted to hell, the combination of sand blasting, filing, sanding and buffing will completely remove any old bluing anyway.
9ac2e7 No.525343
I machined the stock, only to realize that the receiver was sitting up top high. I needed to plug the hole in the back of the receiver so it can be re drilled and tapped in a different position so that the receiver will sit in the stock correctly. To accomplish this, I cut off part of a bolt with the same diameter and thread size, and used some industrial grade loctite to secure it in place. The I ground the excess down and filed it flush. Then, I heated it with a propane torch to get the loctite to cure.
9ac2e7 No.525369
This is turning into an ordeal. To be continued tomorrow…
04eef1 No.525373
>>525317
>>525318
>>525320
>>525369
>>525343
You are doing great work anon, keep us updated
13a2ab No.525377
>>525317
holy jesus fuck that breechface is rusted to hell
9ddfe8 No.525379
Still have been researching the double barrel shotgun from Rust, and if it's plausible to build a working one.
Here's the main issues that I'm having at the moment:
> Does not have two triggers, works on a synchgear.
> Firing pin is engaged by pulling a screwdriver, and in turn the shotgun bolt(?) back.
> For some reason it has an extractor-type hole where the screwdriver is pulled back on, which leaves the entire firing pin system prone to mud.
> No easily defined unlatching method, I suspect this was just a case of inept British designers not understanding guns, but realistically speaking this could be an issue.
Pics are related.
Some Russian guy has built a semi-working model of the double barrel, but the problem is that he didn't make a functioning firearm, so he didn't bother with the synchgear.
So my fellow gunsmithy types, how would you go about building this personally?
Right now, I'm trying to design a realistically plausible synch-gear, but I have been having trouble.
25e9e2 No.525387
>turning bubba's priceless work of art and ingenuity into some city-sis basicbitch gun
Lynch yourself.
13a2ab No.525388
>>525379
>how would you go about building this personally?
by building something that won't break apart and kill me, that's how
1d22fe No.525389
>>525379
You could definitely build something similar, but making something exactly like that and also functional would probably be pretty difficult. The way the barrels sit above the receiver instead of flush with it doesn't really make sense. I wouldn't even know how to start making a double barrel work with a single trigger. I don't really know anything about mechanical engineering. I guess making it striker fired and having that screwdriver handle cock the striker would be the way to start. Someone on cuckchan was building a mad max style improvised double barrel. It was looking pretty nice, but he hasn't posted in a while. Some kid on plebbit made an over-under that looked like something straight out of Metro 2033. It was pretty cool tbh.
cdecde No.525391
>>525379
Good luck anon, I really hope you could make a Semi Auto from rust.
1742f3 No.525394
>File and sand out the pitting
Turning an aesthetic defect into a structural defect. Just bead blast it and blue over it.
214b0a No.525401
>>525394
How rough is your file that you are taking millimeters of metal off per pass?
>>525317
Watching with interest. Call me boring, but I wouldn't bother with trying to make an IRL rust shotgun.
1d22fe No.525406
>>525394
Nah, that would look like shit and you'd have to take a LOT of metal off before you damaged the integrity of the gun. I'll get this thing looking better than the day it was made.
>>525401
I'm not turning this into the Rust shotgun, that's someone else ITT. I'm just going to turn this shotgun into something presentable. I'm getting paid to do it, and also just for the fun/challenge aspects. Trying to unfuck bubba's handwork is entertaining to me.
9ddfe8 No.525420
>>525391
Oh boy do not get me started on that. It has no gas rod for completing the extraction process and chambering of a new round.
9ddfe8 No.525422
>>525389
Mind putting up a link for the overunder? Would love to see it.
1d22fe No.525439
>>525422
This is it. The kid's dad has a CNC mill. Lucky little bastard.
https://imgur.com/gallery/hKEnC
9ddfe8 No.525474
>>525439
What a beautiful gun, and yeah he's a lucky bastard for having a CNC mill. Seriously, fuck 3d printed guns, I want someone to make a cheap and affordable CNC mill!
f0b3a9 No.525490
so I was thinking about buying one of those single shot 12 gauges, filling out the paperwork of course and sawing the hell out of it. I'm talking saw the bastard down until it's basically a pistol, pretty much the entire foregrip is gone, and then i'll pull out the old milling machine and replace the butt with a pistol grip.
alternatively i'd buy a geko and put a good steel sleeve inside of it so I can fire 12 gauge out of that. How realistic is this option?
13a2ab No.525493
>sawed off shotgun
It will be awkward to hold unless your grip is vertical, but with a vertical grip you better hope as little powder burns as possible so recoil doesn't fuck your hand.
>flare gun with a sleeve
That needs a tax stamp as well, since the ATF is picky. Should be fine as long as you don't feed it a steady diet of 3 1/2" magnums.
Hell I'd say that's a better way to go since a lot of old single shots are beat to shit.
4829b2 No.525512
How come no one has attempted to make the guns from Metro 2033?
I mean I personally would love to have a Bastard Gun or even the Uboinik.
5a1c46 No.525530
>>525512
People have tried to brainstorm how the fuck to get the clip to work on the Bastard.
9ac2e7 No.525584
So now I'm just inletting the stock. I probably won't update until after the weekend because it's very tedious and time consuming and not very interesting to watch. The way it works is, you paint up your metal with Prussian Blue paste, insert it into the stock using your guide rod, tap it with a deadblow hammer, observe where your metal is contacting the wood (there will be a Prussian Blue imprint where it's touching), scrape/file/chisel away at the contact point, then repeat the whole process over an over and over and over……
Like I said, this will be the most tedious and time consuming part of this project. Things will get interesting again when I get into the bluing, machining, and case hardening. Maybe I'll take a little break from inletting and start on that stuff so I have something interesting to post.
14f53e No.525589
>gunsmithing general
I made a Glock 19 from those cool 80% lowers. That counts right guys? Right?
550674 No.525594
>>525589
Sure it does! Gunsmithing comes in all shapes and sizes. Some gunsmiths just build parts kits, some just do woodwork/stockmaking, and some do a bit of everything. Drilling and tapping for a scope mount or slapping together a parts kit may not seem like much but it is technically gunsmithing.
792657 No.525595
>>525589
You created a firearm where there wasn't one before. That's gunsmithing.
792657 No.525597
>>525584
That sounds like the more complicated version of fitting an axe head: remove material, tap the head on, drift it off, scrape where the oxide appears, repeat as necessary.
22e4a6 No.526300
>>525317
It's Monday! Patiently waiting to see what you did over the weekend.
9ac2e7 No.526311
>>526300
I'm almost done inletting that stock. It only needs to go back about 3/16ths of an inch. Meanwhile, I got started prepping the barrel for bluing. I started by cleaning out the bore and removing the front "sight" (bubba's screw). Next, I ran the barrel over a buffing wheel with 140 grit abrasive compound. This is to remove rust and old bluing so I can see what I'm working with. The pitting is about as bad as it can be and the lettering stamped into the barrel is all but gone. It looks like it says "electro steel" and I can just barely make out a patent date. (If anyone knows what kind of gun this is, please tell me). Normally, you would be cautious not to fade out your stamps/roll marks/lettering but in this case it's so far gone that I'm just going to pretend like it isn't there. If some of it survives, so be it. Now I begin a process called "draw filing". You clamp your barrel into a bench vise, place a 6 inch mill bastard file into the palm of your hand, and wrap your hand around the barrel while pulling the file towards you. The trick is to exert enough pressure for the file to bite down and get rid of your pitting, but not so much that your putting gouges into the metal. If you do gouge it, it's no big deal, it's just making more work for yourself later. You also want to file as evenly as possible. If you focus too much on one area, you'll end up with low spots which are a pain to get out. As you draw file, you'll start to highlight problem areas with low spots and particularly bad pitting. Keep going until everything looks uniform. Then you will move on to shoe-polishing the barrel with progressively finer grit sandpaper. (180, 220, 320, 400 for a factory finish or all the way up to 1000 for mirror polishing). Prepping metal for bluing can be done entirely by hand with files and sandpaper, or entirely on a buffing wheel with abrasive compound. I like to use both, going back and forth between the two methods. You can also just sandblast everything and throw it in the tank if you're a lazy nigger. It gives it a matte finish which doesn't look nearly as good as a factory finish in my opinion.
9ac2e7 No.526335
This shit is sooo close to being done. I was really hoping it'd be done today. Tomorrow I'll finish it up and show you how to use an acragel kit. Once that's done, I can reshape the stock and start getting the receiver ready for case hardening.
13a2ab No.526345
>>526311
>If anyone knows what kind of gun this is, please tell me
Looks like a licensed copy or rebranded Stevens shotgun - specifically the model 115. There were a handful of shotguns that were passed around under different names like that, so that's where the unorthodox markings may come from.
2eca49 No.526346
I'll contribute with minor shit I've done to firearms.
>Dad gets new rifle
>'new' Winchester Ranger, .30-30
>Inspect it, nothing wrong with it as far as I can see
>Disassembly goes well, everything is working
>Get a few boxes of ammunition a week later
>Load 3 rounds, try working the lever
>On the return, the feeding lever would depress, causing the cartridge to get rammed slightly above the chamber
>Try a different cartridge, same shit
>Disassemble, clean, no fix
>Google the issue, no answer aside from replacing the entire action
>disassemble, take a look at the guide blocks
Winchester 1894 rifles have these little blocks that guide the cartridge along while the bolt pushes it into battery, mine were aluminum
>Notice rim impressions along the rear of them
>get the wild idea to smooth out the grooves with a file to remove the rim-burrs
>no fix
>remove more material from the blocks
>no fix
>removing more and more material
>partial fix
>cartridge feeds if I work the action slowly, not good enough
>remove more material
>fixed
The rifle feeds perfectly now, no clue why it didn't originally. I think somebody may have installed the wrong caliber guide blocks, as the gun was bought second hand.
2eca49 No.526348
>Buy a couple South Korean 20 round AK mags for cheap
>One of them works perfect, the other won't feed the last 4 rounds
>lube the fuck out of the inside, figured the follower might've been rubbing against the mag wall
>notice the follower itself is bent, and would jam itself on the last few rounds
>take pliers and hammer to the follower
>fixed
>Get bored, tfw no bakelite mags
>buy some brown Tapco mags
>Make a window mag, like all the other cool kids
>make the viewing holes too wide
>cartridges sometimes fall out
3960a7 No.526408
>>526345
You're correct. The stamp said "electro steel choke bored" followed by the patent date (Aug 12, 1913)
9ac2e7 No.526642
Sorry I didn't post yesterday. I was hiding from all the spooky stuff.
I finally finished inletting this bitch and began shaping it to match the receiver. I use a combination of a Farrier's rasp, round files, and flat files for stock shaping. A little bit of the receiver protruded from the bottom, so I ground it down, smoothed it with a belt sander and polished it with a buffing wheel. You can't even tell someone fucked with the receiver. I think I did a bang up job tbh.
I made a new stock bolt by taking a carriage bolt, cutting it to the right size, and cutting a slot in the head of it with a hacksaw to allow it to be screwed in with a flat head screwdriver. There's several other ways to accomplish this but I figured that would be easiest.
Unfortunately, I couldn't avoid fucking up my checkering during the shaping process so I'll have to recut part of the pattern. No big deal. I'm going to cover what remains of my checkering with masking tape, sand the stock, and refinish it with a spray can of Helmsman clear gloss. (Hang it from a piece of coat hanger attached to a string so it rotates freely. Spray it three times waiting 30 minutes between each coat. It should have a texture similar to an orange peel. Use 0000 steel wool and FFF stock rubbing compound to smooth out the texture. Rub it in circular motions like you are pleasuring a high class lady of the evening. It should look and feel almost like glass when it's done. I use Helmsman because I'm a cheap jew but Gun Saver brand custom oil hunter satin finish is much much nicer. It's just expensive and you have to order it online so I'm not using it.)
Next up is acraglass gel.
792657 No.526650
>>526642
This is a good thread. Are you doing this for you, or for someone else?
9ac2e7 No.526653
>>526650
It was my buddy's job originally. Some woman wanted it done for her husband as a Christmas gift. He didn't want to do it so it got passed on to me. This stock has been a pain, but it should be smooth sailing from here on out. I don't think I'll ever try to modify a stock to fit something different again. Too time consuming.
7dd92b No.526659
while this can't compare to the strelok doing impressive stuff. How difficult is it to build a parts kit, particularly an FAL parts kit?
9ac2e7 No.526672
>>526659
If you have to weld the receiver and stuff, that takes a bit of skill. If you get a 100% receiver off of gunbroker or something, then you basically just assemble the parts which isn't really that difficult. Cuck chan has gunsmithing threads about building parts kits. If you can stand all the tripfags sucking eachother off, you can find good info there. One of the tripfags makes youtube tutorials on parts kits builds, and I'm fairly certain there's a video specifically about FALs. If you're doing it because you want a fun project to do, then go for it. If you're just doing it because you want an FAL, then I recommend just buying an FAL because building from a kit costs about the same.
934c50 No.527519
Ok, so I've got the stock 100% inletted and I re-cut the checkering. I high polished the receiver and I'm about to put it in the furnace for case hardening. Pic related is a side-by-side comparison with bubba's homemade stock. Pretty big difference. I should have this thing acraglassed and case hardened within the next few hours.
934c50 No.527527
There's different methods for case hardening, but generally speaking it's just baking your metal in a bone/charcoal mix. Our method is to heat your furnace to 1500 degrees, place your metal inside a perforated steel cage using bolts and nuts to hold it in place, place the cage inside a crucible and fill both the cage and crucible with the bone and charcoal. Seal the bottom of the crucible with a heat resistant clay/epoxy and place it in the preheated furnace for an hour or so. Meanwhile, fill a 55 gallon drum with ice water. Use a fishtank airstone or something to aerate the water. Dump a bunch of old charcoal into the water. You want the water to be high in carbon, ice cold, and well aerated. (I've heard of people dropping chunks of dry-ice into their water and this is something I'd like to experiment with some day.)
After an hour, take the crucible out of the furnace. It will be glowing red-hot so you will need some kind of metal tongs or something to remove it (don't drop that shit, nigga). Then you suspend it above the drum of water and smack the bottom of the crucible open, causing the cage and all the bone/charcoal to fall into the water. This will cause a belch of flame to flare-up. It's recommended to wear a flame retardant jacket, like a welders jacket or something that covers your arms. I never seen or heard of someone getting badly injured but its fairly common to singe your arm hairs or something. I know someone who caught his beard on fire.
Now reach in and pull it out. It's always cool to the touch immediately after falling in, but you should grab it slowly just in case it's still hot. Take an air hose and get it bone-dry. Place it in a drying closet over night. Now, you can either put a clear coat of clear cerakote or something similar over it or do an oil finish. The clear coat makes it more glossy/shiny and the colors will pop out more. The oil finish is more of a dull matte. They both look good, it's just personal preference really.
I'll post pics if my results soon.
e016a9 No.527538
Unrelated to the project at hand, but is weapons guild broke for anyone else? I keep getting some 404 page (actually 406?) I d on't know nerd speak.
10bded No.527545
>>527538
Seems like they're getting pressured. Do a google search and go to the temp page.
I remember every time I went there my connection slowed to a crawl, so you might want to watch what you click.
934c50 No.527548
Aww yeah…
It's really hard to get a good picture of this thing. You have to see it in person to really appreciate it. It turned out really nice. Lots of pink and blue colors. Case hardening is one of those things, you either love it or hate it. I love this shit tbh.
710ce8 No.527552
221174 No.527578
>>527548
How deep does the carburization penetrate into the steel using your method? Or is it just a surface finish aesthetics thing?
934c50 No.527580
>>527578
My understanding is that it does create a hard outer "casing" which gives it some corrosion resistance and extra strength, but it's only like a few micrometers thick. If I took some sandpaper to it, it would shine back up like regular steel. I remember reading that color case hardening was an old technique to make armor and shields stronger. Obviously, there's better ways to accomplish that now but people continued to use the technique for the A E S T H E T I C S
462387 No.527603
>>525474
>He hasn't heard of the Ghost Gunner
934c50 No.528081
Ok my friends. Today is the big day. Hot salt bluing! Bluing is my personal favorite thing about gunsmithing. There aren't enough diamonds in the world to explain how hard my dick gets when pulling that freshly blued metal out of the tank.
I ended up high-polishing my metal because fuck it why not. This is going to be the prettiest turd of a gun y'all have ever seen.
Start by cleaning your to-be-blued parts with mineral spirits. You want to completely eliminate any traces of oil on the metal. If there's oil anywhere on it, it'll leach out during the bluing process and you'll have little shiny spots that don't get blued. Suspend your parts from pieces of wire or coat hangers. Any part with a hole gets hung up and small parts like pins and screws get put into a basket. Spray all your parts down with denatured alcohol to eliminate any fingerprints. If you leave a fingerprint or a smudge on the metal, you're gonna see it after its been blued. This is especially important on a high-polished job like this. The shinier and more mirror-like the metal is, the more noticeable small imperfections become.
The tank on the right is the salt tank. The ones on the right are the hot and gold water tanks. Clean your water tanks thoroughly and top off your salt tank with water. Light your burners and break up the solidified salt in the salt tank. Break up at the chunks and stir the shit out of it. If the tank starts to boil with dry, solid salts at the bottom, the tank will "purge" and you'll make a huge mess and waste time and money. You can't stir the tank too much but you can definitely not stir it enough so stir it good.
310893 No.528082
>>528081
>Hot salt bluing! Bluing is my personal favorite thing about gunsmithing.
Fuck yeah, there's nothing like taking a neglected gun especially an old shotgun or .22 rifle and making it nice and bright so they can pass it down to a couple of more generations of family.
That looks like a nicely efficient setup, do you do an immersion in oil after the parts cool sufficiently or something else?
934c50 No.528085
>>528082
Yes, there's something so satisfying about taking a gun that's approaching the "wall hanger" stage of its life cycle and giving it another 50 to 100 years.
I briefly dunk my parts in oil and coat them in RIG overnight.
After your tank has been at a rolling boil for 10 minutes, make a note of the tempurature. Subtract your current temperature from 282. For example, if its at 278 then you need to raise the temperature by 4 degrees Fahrenheit. You do this by adding more salts the the tank. The salts we use are sodium hydroxide (AKA Lye or caustic soda) sodium nitrite and sodium nitrate. There's specific ratios of the salts that need to be added by weight. We have a chart on the wall that explains it. Pour the salts in cautiously. You definitely don't want boiling hot caustic shit splashing on you. If it happens, flush with water or neutralize it with vinegar. (Dude, have you seen Fight Club?).
As the water evaporates, the tempurature will continue to rise. At 286 to 290 I place my parts into the tank suspended from the cost hangers. (Some will argue that this is too hot and some will say it's not hot enough. This is just what works for me). Place the parts in quickly because the fumes will cause rust spots to develop on your metal.
The length of time the parts are immersed aren't as important as the tempurature. At around 295 I'll take a quick peek at a part and if I'm satisfied with the results, I'll begin moving my parts into the cold tank. Briefly swish the parts through the cold water, then place them into the got water tank. NEVER go from Salt tank to the hot tank. The reason for this, is it can cause a violent reaction or so I've been told. Never seen that happen.
934c50 No.528087
Sheeeiiiit
Now dunk everything in oil. Coat it in RIG and wrap everything in newspaper.
Tomorrow I'll clean the rig off of everything and reassemble the gun.
3dd83a No.528108
>>528081
This is so exciting, please post a video once you're finished with the restoration.
a11968 No.528113
>>528081
>Prettiest turd of a gun
I can't stop giggling.
More OP, you glorious bastard! Finish it!
718dec No.528324
>>528085
>>528081
For those of us without access to hundred gallon troughs of boiling caustics, what about rust bluing?
9b6df1 No.528328
>>528324
>rust bluing
You'll need to make a rust box.
934c50 No.528334
>>528328
That's the slow method. I do what's called "forced" rust bluing. It only takes a few hours and you just need a big pot of boiling water and an oven.
>>528324
Rust bluing is pretty nice and it's definitely more accessible to someone without an expensive setup. You can do it in your kitchen. If you're interested, I can do a write up on my method.
Anyways, here it is!
5d5f48 No.528335
934c50 No.528336
>>528335
Thanks buddy.
I'm about to test fire it there's a not insignificant gap between the breech face and the barrel. If the primers bulge out, I can fix it but I'm not going to unless the customer wants to pay me more. I've done enough to this thing already.
f5c274 No.528344
>>528334
>that dark case hardening
I cannot contain my dick right now
c9ff36 No.528349
>>528334
this is some quality content
9b6df1 No.528353
>>528334
Now that is beautiful. I've only done it the slow method though.
14e1ad No.528392
I've got a beat up Enfield I can't decide what to do with. Cheapest/easiest thing to do would be to headspace it and keep .303, but it isn't easy to find cheap ammo for. Alternatively, I could make a sorta-delisle and chamber it for 45/?.??x39/something NATO. Suggestions?
71bdab No.528394
>>528392
Do you have access to a lathe? Or are you going to pay someone to chamber/thread a barrel blank for you? .45acp would be cool. An Enfield chambered for .410 shot shells would be cool too. I don't really see the point in having a 7 62 x39 bolt action.
2b981c No.528395
>>528392
.45-70 used to be a popular conversion for them. If you love big-bore rounds that would be a good one.
14e1ad No.528401
>>528394
>>528395
context: california
Unfortunately no lathe, so I probably wouldn't be doing most of this. I want something cheap to feed that won't scare people if I take it into the woods and I can maybe suppress later. 45-70 sounds awesome, but I'm worried food availability is similar to .303. Would 20 GA fit?
10bded No.528403
>>528401
>45-70 sounds awesome, but I'm worried food availability is similar to .303
Plenty of new production for both, anon. Not sure what you expect.
9b6df1 No.528405
>>528401
20ga is too big. .410 and .45-70 work with the bolt as is and they're available. If it isn't sporterized I'd just get the headspaced checked and invest in a lee loader for .303.
f280b3 No.528408
Does anyone know a good source for reproduction military gunstocks? Surely someone out there makes them; all it would take is a stock duplicator and a pattern.
>>528392
How beat up? Because unless it's completely shot out, bubba'd, or otherwise unsalvageable, you should keep it in the original configuration.
That having been said, a SBR smoke projector / grenade launcher / jawa blaster would be cool.
9b6df1 No.528411
>>528408
Fox military if you're looking for french, russian and german stuff. No clue on stuff for enfields, Arisaka's or even springfields.
14e1ad No.528470
>>528405
>>528405
It was bubba'd long before I got it, think grandpa's durr rifle. Forend is unsalvagable, no barrel bands, no front sight protector, no sling swivels, no anything. Barrel is completely servicable though, and I do have a magazine for it. Effort wise, it's about halfway between a complete restoration and weird conversion, and I can't decide which way to go.
>>528411
Apex has some good stuff, but it's all original, no repro.
9b6df1 No.528496
>>528470
If all that has been done to it was the removal of the forend and everything else was left intact it should just be a matter of finding some new hardware.
3afca0 No.528502
>>528470
SMLE parts are comparatively easy to come by. I'd go for the restoration.
Why the fuck are 1917 Enfield stocks made of unobtainium holy shit.
9b6df1 No.528506
>>528502
Because Winchester and Remington pattern stocks vary and that isn't even including the Eddystone ones either. Apparently boyd's used to make brand new stocks for p17's, might have to call them for it though.
14e1ad No.528522
>>528496
>>528502
Sounds like a plan. no shit about p17's, too, just looked. maybe try your hand at making your own?
8c8b4b No.533568
Bumping to preserve the thread while I'm waiting for parts to come in.
Attached image is some oddball custom ammunition for a gas seal revolver.
8dafc4 No.533572
Found out to my chagrin recently that a Soviet AK sling won't properly install on a Zhukov stock without relieving the sling slot. You don't have to remove an excessive amount of material but it's noticeable. Didn't even think to pull out my calipers and mic the difference. Of course knowing polymer it might have been inside the tolerances.
f22588 No.537699
Oh hey, look what came in the mail. Two weeks ago.
f9daf1 No.537730
>>533568
It's called the Nagant revolver, why the hell…
ae5d41 No.537732
>>537730
You've never heard of the KAC 'It's totally not an assassination weapon guys!' revolving rifle?
f9daf1 No.537747
YouTube embed. Click thumbnail to play.
>>537732
I know but the Nagant does that cheaper, less complicated, and better performance.
ae5d41 No.537751
>>537747
Designing and tooling up to produce something like a Nagant from the ground up for what's only ever going to be a handful of firearms is a lot more in-depth than rebarrelling a Redhawk and handloading a funky new cartridge to make it work.
cd1611 No.538975
>>>/v/14057093
>>>/v/14057502
Somebody posted these on /v/ and I thought they were comfy, so I came here to see how one might be built. Obviously you could just make a super-extended stock for a standard gun, but it wouldn't be balanced properly. TBH they should have a thread all to themselves to discuss different design concepts for them, but general gunsmithing advice can't hurt.
Is it possible for your raifu to be a fictitious gun, or gun that only exists in the conceptual stages? Because I think I found my raifu. Can /k/ help me get with her?
cd1611 No.539009
>>538975
https://archive.is/I7AYB
I decided to make an archive of that thread in case it goes down before someone answers me and the pictures I'm referring to aren't accessible anymore. Also, the topic of that thread probably deserves a thread here as well, given that as some posters in it have pointed out, it's about certain influential groups deciding to declare something they don't like a mental disorder, which could potentially be used to bar people from gun ownership.
6bfb80 No.541645
Bumping this thread in 2018.
6abb5a No.541718
>>541645
im coming for that ass when that piece of shit jams
665627 No.542132
>>527603
The Ghost Gunner is an overpriced drill press, it's not a real CNC mill
000000 No.542185
>>539009
>been over a week and nobody else wants to design and build a fire lance
Guess I'll just have to do it myself and report back. I must commune with the murder/k/ube and learn its divine wisdom.
6abb5a No.542212
>>542185
whats the point of it
000000 No.542226
>>542212
>implying there needs to be a point to theorize designs for new weapons
Okay, so it's not a completely new concept, but it's one that hasn't been used in a long time, since the age of black powder guns to be exact. The very first guns were fire lances, so they're the ancestors of everything this board talks about on a daily basis. With all the advances in firearms technology and materials science since then, it's a concept worth revisiting just to see if it can be made viable. Plus the basic idea kicks ass. They let you stab someone and shoot them at the same time with the same weapon without having the retarded balancing of a gunblade or the short melee range of a bayonet rifle. It's like a gunblade that actually doesn't suck shit. Just imagining all the possible variations on mixing and matching different actions, projectile types, spearhead types, accessories and combat tactics for how to use them is enough to make anyone's head spin, so I thought I'd ask /k/ how it should be done. Ideally it should be able to be built with currently existing technology. I'm sure in the future someone will have a lightsaber mounted on the end of a pole-shaped plasma cannon, but we're not there yet.
6338d4 No.542237
>>542185
>fire lance
So, a tube that has gunpowder in it, and it burns for a few seconds? I think you best bet would be to load up a pump-action shotgun with a special version of dragonfire shells, one that burns for a few seconds. Put a bayonet on it to make it a lance.
000000 No.542242
>>542237
The term "fire lance" is somewhat misleading. It's just a gun-spear hybrid, not a flamethrower. Of course if it was made as a shotgun, or with the ability to attach an underslung shotgun, it could use Dragon's Breath shells. The gun in your picture unfortunately lacks anything that could be described as a shaft, so it's not the best for use as a polearm. The general idea was to make the gun functionality work more or less the same as a standard rifle, possibly as a conversion kit for one. In order to make this work, you'd want to use a very compact and slim rifle as the base. If you really wanted to go all the way towards making it a spear, you'd select a gun that has the magazine parallel to the barrel and just get rid of the conventional grip entirely, or make it foldable or collapsible so the entire gun would assume a pole shape suitable for the base of a spear shaft. The P90 has that type of magazine, but its overall dimensions are too large for this. I don't know of any commercially available gun that fits all of these criteria, but I'm sure some of them are suitable for modification.
8c0abc No.542280
>>525317
I've been thinking about getting a degree from Sonoran Desert Institue (Associate of Science of Firearms Technology) in the effort to eventually become a gunsmith professionally.
Is this a smart career choice, or should I keep gunsmithing as a hobby instead?
000000 No.542391
I was thinking about what action and caliber a modern fire lance should use, and it's hard to pick a definite favorite because they all have their pros and cons. You could make a blowback fire lance for use with smaller-caliber projectiles and make it like an SMG/PDW/pistol-caliber carbine with some meme round which tends to be one of these, you could go with some very large-caliber rounds and not suffer an accuracy loss due to the added mass of the shaft and the stabbing implement lowering recoil but also have to deal with a more mechanically complex action which may be prone to failure if you're swinging it around and slashing up some poor bastard with it, or you could use something exotic like flechette rounds or arrowhead rounds if you feel like being a smartass and don't mind having to fabricate your own ammo. I also thought about having a revolver fire lance because a revolver chamber would fit nicely in a spear shaft and because avoiding the possibility of jamming is always good. Unfortunately, revolvers aren't the simplest option in terms of mechanics, and automatic revolvers even less so, and you also lose out on ammo capacity, reload speed, and all the other things that made armies and police switch away from revolvers.
Ammo availability is a primary concern for any option. If you go with a meme round, you'll have a hard time keeping it adequately supplied, so it should use a fairly common round, or at least be able to switch barrels. Of course, switching barrels on a weapon intended to be part-melee will alter its handling more substantially than on a regular gun, so it's unlikely that can be made to work. Having it be a multiple-barrel weapon is out because it'd be the most unwieldy piece of junk out there unless your goal is to mount the gun portion at the front instead of in the center, use it as a polehammer and smash the enemy's skull with the barrel assembly, which will destroy the gun's internals very quickly. As for the blade, pretty much any shape that's been used for a spear, dagger or sword can probably work, but I'd love to hear suggestions on this front if anything special sticks out to anyone. All of this theorizing says nothing about how to actually build it, though, and the price and difficulty of constructing it should also be a factor. You could just 3D print it, but most people don't have 3D printers.
To get even more ridiculous, you could make a Twinbow-style crossbow lance with an autoloader and use the currently nocked arrow/bolt as your spear tip to get the ultimate in ammo conservation. Then all you'd have to do is get a collection of specialty arrows from (Zelda/Crysis 3/the acid trip you had last week, choose all that apply) and you're officially (a badass/a lunatic/a massive faggot/the reincarnation of William Tell, choose all that apply). In any case, you'd have gone outside the scope of this thread by making it a crossbow, unless of course you built a gun into it somehow. If that happened, every pro-gun control politician in the world would have a heart attack, and the spacetime continuum would suffer major damage if not total destruction.
119dcf No.542397
>>542280
Going to school specifically for gunsmithing is a bad idea - generally, if you REALLY want to be a gunsmith that isn't just loosening and tightening screws in the back of a sporting goods shop, you need to take classes in each science required in the career.
Metallurgy and chemistry, machining, etc.
If you just go for flat-out "gunsmithing" you may miss out on something and not genuinely absorb the material. That and actual gunsmiths may be highly skeptical of your actual ability when you go for an apprenticeship(something that can get you more credibility on its own).
119dcf No.542554
>>542299
>>542551
I wouldn't call an AR build "fun" because it ends as quickly as it begins.
AKs are getting harder to build because of parts kits drying up, and as it is you need a hydraulic press(or a heavy mallet and vodka to ram a barrel into the trunnion) and the ability to rivet the receiver.
Anything else and you get into processes requiring welding and exotic(expensive) parts.
59a2ac No.542784
>>542781
>>542596
>>542595
>tripleposting
>redditspacing
>expecting everyone to do everything for you
>expecting post-election 8Chan to be active
Hello, reddit
2d65d9 No.542951
>>541645
Boi I'm gonna need the sauce on that picture
56adf5 No.542991
>>525317
You already seem to have answered most of your own questions, what's to the point of keeping this thread around? Can you point to me where on this spectrum you belong?
4ba7d4 No.554500
fa7017 No.554541
>>542991
D-did you make a chart of the EM spectrum yourself instead of just finding one?
8e30ca No.554595
>>542991
You forgot to include the autism spectrum
bbdb64 No.554627
>>525474
CNC is too pricey, but you can get a decent manual mill for relatively cheap
e8ccd2 No.554664
>>554627
Depends on what you're talking about. You don't ''need' a top of the line HAAS vertical milling center to get into CNC. If you already have a micro or bench mill with ball screws (you did opt for ball screws, right?) upgrading it to CNC can be as easy as bolting on a pair of stepper motors, encoders, and a linux box to run the thing.
704e20 No.554747
>>554664
Not to shit on ya but for the average layman a micro mill is already pricey. I've heard various prices to turn one into a cnc from about $500 maybe under that assuming that you're willing to milling the non-electrical parts and over $2k if you want it have the cnc to be of decent quality. Granted that's without milling some of the parts yourself.