/k/ - Weapons

>>507309

Here's a quick and dirty parts list, OP.

Parts you will need for lower:

Stripped lower receiver, or an 80% lower if you want(requires trigger housing to be milled out typically)

Lower parts kit, which may or may not include trigger(typically milspec if it does)

Trigger if LPK doesn't include

Stock/receiver extension/buffer spring/buffer

Pistol Grip

Parts for upper:

Stripped upper receiver

Barrel

Bolt Carrier Group(BCG - you can also get it in parts and assemble it yourself, which is beneficial for general knowledge. Also you will want to take the extractor off the BCG if you use dummy caps to test your rifles ability to cycle.)

Charging handle

Gas block/gas tube

Hand guard

And optionally for upper, there's also the forward assist and dust cover. These can safely be ignored if you're going for as cheap as possible, and indeed there are many stripped uppers available that don't even have the spaces for them included.

That's everything for the rifle, you'll of course want sights and/or an optic to go with it. For putting it together, there are a billion how-to videos on jewtube, watch a couple to get an idea of the various techniques for assembling and also for the tools required.

As for part recommendations, I always get Anderson stripped lowers and uppers. Cheap 7075 forged receivers, you don't need anything else really. Unless you want xXxOp3rAt0rxXx billet receivers for looks or something.

Geissele and Timney triggers are of course welcome upgrades over standard milspec triggers.

Magpul MOE pistol grip and stock are good and light pieces, and also cheap.

For the stuff on the upper, aim for a nickel boron BCG, and mind the twist rate of the barrel. The twist rate that's right for you will depend on what kind of loads you'll be using.

I hope that's enough to get you started, OP.

>>507343

>I always get Anderson stripped lowers and uppers

Mah nigga.

Also one thing to keep in mind is carbine vs A2 buffer, if you don't care about having an adjustable stock then I recommend an A2 buffer and fixed stock.

>>507401

>le DI meme

>nogunz country

No surprises there.

There isn't anything wrong with the Stoner DI system for most applications. My AR15 is the worst case scenario when it comes to carbon fouling, a suppressed SBR, and even then the maintenance of cleaning it is minimal.

Filthy14 ran for tens of thousands of rounds without cleaning.

http://www.slip2000.com/blog/s-w-a-t-magazine-filthy-14/

Sounds like it's your first time. Do you have a vice and vice block? If not just get a completed upper. The lower is piss easy to assemble and requires no special tools (just punches, masking tape and some blocks to put it on, all things a decent garage should have already) beyond a cheap AR wrench for the buffer tube assembly while an upper is actually quite a pain in the ass and outright requires a vice and block.

I want a1 style furniture but have the rifle chambered in something like 50 Beo,458 SOCOM, or 510 beck.

Thoughts?

>>507343

Not OP, but thanks for the info <3

>>507401

One thing I want to know is what the criticism about the short stroke piston causing "tilting" of the bolt is based off of. The force of direct impingement is in the exact same place and would therefore have the same moment associated with it. Really the only thing I can think of that would be an issue with a short stroke piston versus direct impingement would be the impulse of the piston hitting the bolt versus the bolt being accelerated (relatively) more slowly by gases.

Am I missing something?

>>507436

Yup you're missing a huge part of DI cycling in an AR.

>The gas key is hollow, it forces the gasses into the interior of the bolt carrier.

>The gases then expand in the carrier, forcing it back straight back.

>>507425

Are you me except I want it wood or with these handgurads http://www.nodakspud.com/AR%20Lowers.htm

There's a program on steam that lets you disassemble/reassemble guns virtually, it's great for understanding how everything fits together. It's called World of Guns: Gun Disassembly.

It's not just a video game, it's incredibly detailed. It's priced by how many gun models you get so it's dirt cheap if you're only interested in one.

>>507436

It's because in a DI AR-15 the bolt is the piston. The gas fills the bolt carrier and pushes the bolt forward against the barrel extension. The bolt is centered so no tilt. You can watch the whole firing process and all the parts moving in slow-motion cutaway with >>507451

>>507425

Expect to do some filing at the ends to get them to fit

>>507838

does anyone make new production A1 hand guards or do I just by from someone on ebay?

>>507441

>>507452

Didn't realize the gas went into the bolt carrier like that. Couldn't find any good diagrams.

>>507343

Barrel recommendations? Those Anderson barrels are pretty cheap, are they worth getting?

>>507878

Actually because the gas travels down into the BCG the majority of the force applied isn't on the key, it's between the bolt and the carrier.

In fig 7 you can see the gap indicated by the "11" where the gas pressure is causing the bolt and carrier to separate. The gas is contained there because the bolt has one or more sealing rings on it, preventing the gas from moving past the bolt, so it pushes the two objects apart. The forces opening the bolt are centered on the bolt itself instead of on a point on the top of the bolt.

That force shoves the bolt forward into the barrel while it's unlocking, making the unlock and extraction easier because the mechanism isn't dragging a still expanded cartridge back against the chamber wall.

I'm not saying there isn't any force applied by the gas traveling through the key but it's no more force than is being applied to the weapon at the tap in the barrel where it enters the gas tube.

The AR-18 used a weighted carrier to shift the center of mass of the BCG up so that it would be in line with the piston, if it didn't the BCG would have tilted and jammed in the gun.

>>507885

I think you misunderstood me since that's about what I said. I might not have been very clear.

>>507878

>Still, it isn't quite accurate to say that there's no "tilting,"

In a semi-auto firearm the highest cycling forces occur when the bolt is unlocking, in the Stoner system the forces which perform this is inline with the barrel. The small amount of force exerted by the key isn't an issue since by the time the bolt has unlocked the back of the carrier is already in the buffer tube.

In a piston design the force to unlock the bolt isn't inline with the barrel, so the force is now pushing the bolt carrier in a way which makes it want to tilt downwards. In the early piston guns this would cause wear on the back of the upper receiver and buffer tube as the lip on the back of the carrier would be slamming into the buffer tube. They got around this by putting a slope on the back of the carrier but its still not a perfect solution and can cause excessive wear on the bolt carrier guide rails and upper receiver.

>>507912

>not an issue

I know, I'm just being autistic.

>>507914

>>507912

I might be retarded but I swear there's some issue with high ROF causing some other fuck up in certain piston gun varieties.

Also another solution to the piston gun carrier tilt problem is buffer tubes with a slightly extended "lip" so that the carrier is already resting in the buffer tube before it even starts moving.

That said, a DI gun will run just fine. Piston shit is kind of a waste usually, IMO.

>>507309

OP, here's some tools you're gonna need:

>a punch pin set

>a vice

>a "barrel block", eg a geisselle reaction rod or a magpul magblock that interfaces with the lugs in your barrel for torquing it

>a large adjustable wrench

>a couple of allen keys of various sizes

>a few various screwdrivers

>some kinda mallet

>a laptop/desktop/phone so you can google shit on youtube in case you forget and fuck something up mildly

Here's the parts I have come to like over the course of my last 4 (and a half?) builds

UPPER:

>Ballistic advantage barrel with a pre-pinned gasblock. Aero Precision has a few with an FSB pinned available as well

>any nitrided BCG

>a BCM extended charging handle, or if you're autistic as hell, a Raptor or a Gasbuster type for a can

>any free float rail with a barrel nut requiring no indexing. HERA makes some sexy quad rails but they're fucking heavy past the 9" mark

>whatever fancy muzzle device you like, but maybe consider a griffin OTB Flash hider and hope the HPA passes because if it does you should be able to DIY a SEXY reflex suppressor for your gun for less than $300.

LOWER:

>Any brand lower that isn't shit. I've used TNARMS Co, Aero, NFA, no problems with any really, but NFA comes with polymer triggers so fuck that shit

>ALG triggers are good and not expensive. If you want something fancier than go for it but they work.

>Strike industries enhanced Bolt Catch. Cheap and steel. Other options available if you really want it.

>Odin Works extended mag release. Just be careful about your trigger pins getting in the way and shit

>generic non-ambi safety

>an H or H2 buffer is worth a shot for shortie builds

>Primary Weapon systems No Stake Castle Nut and End Plate. Comes with a QD built in, just ratchet it tight.

>extended takedown pins are nice but you don't really NEED them. But they're nice.

>Magpul K2+ grip. There are other grips with a similar angle but for me the K2+ is NOICE. try before you buy.

>Get a SOPMOD or a SOPMOD Bravo stock. Cheek weld feels god tier compared to most magpul shit. A few magpul stocks come close in feel and feature set, but for much more dosh, usually.

SIGHTS:

Samson, Daniel Defense, or if you wanna get a red dot, idk, some magpul folding shit.

I have a wierd mix of all of these on multiple different guns. It depends a lot on your taste, but IMO a good red dot with good folding sights is hard to beat.

There are other comfy setups that might feel better in your hand, but this is the easiest and most feature rich setup you can comfortably build at home with no prior experience.

>>507920

Also before I forget, if you're building a "pistol" then some items worth considering are the Primary Weapon Systems CQB/Krink Brake, and a Thordsen Customs "Cheek Rest" kit. It feels a LOT like a SOMPOD stock, but it's not a stock or a brace.

http://palmettostatearmory.com/psa-16-5-56-nato-1-7-mid-length-nitride-13-5-lightweight-keymod-moe-ept-rifle-kit-516446386.html

Seems like a fantastic deal for a build.

>lower parts kit

>bolt carrier and charging handle

>sights

>M-Lok handguard

>MOE furniture

>>507920

>generic non-ambi safety

What's wrong with an ambi safety? Isn't it basically an upgrade with questionable usefulness?

>>509939

>M-Lok handguard

says its a keymod handguard.

http://palmettostatearmory.com/psa-16-mid-length-5-56-nato-1-7-stainless-13-5-m-lok-lightweight-freedom-rifle-kit-516445394.html

^ This one is the same price, but does have an M-Lok handguard if that's super important to you. The downside seems to be no MOE grip or stock. For either of them, you miss out on the fun of putting together the upper.

>>509986

As always, ambi features are great if you or your significant other shoots left handed, or if you really want to bling out your AR. They do come at a premium however, so avoid if it isn't really worth it to you.

>>510006

>As always, ambi features are great if you or your significant other shoots left handed, or if you really want to bling out your AR. They do come at a premium however, so avoid if it isn't really worth it to you.

Yeah, that's what I figured. I am left-eyed so I'm gonna prefer an ambi safety and charging handle. I was gonna get this one ( http://palmettostatearmory.com/psa-defender-moe-lower-parts-kit.html ), ambi LPK for ~$65, but it's been out of stock for months. Now I'm lost, I could always get a plain LPK and buy an ambi safety separately afterwards if it matters that much I suppose, but that seems like a waste of money as they're like $15-20 individually.

I'd be very interested if a Strelo/k/ has any hands on experience with the Wolf A1 upper.

http://www.atlanticfirearms.com/component/virtuemart/shipping-accessories/wolf-a1-upper-detail.html?Itemid=0

I'm very interested in one, the problems with it as far as I see, is putting a sling and light on, as well as the complete lack of commercially available replacement parts.

But I still think that it seems like a really cool thing.

>>510047

It usually ends up cheaper to buy everything that you want the first time, but sometimes kits can have things you want and some shit you dont and still be worthwhile. I've used this kit before, and am using for current build: http://palmettostatearmory.com/moe-lower-build-kit-black.html

I don't use the trigger but the rest of it is perfectly fine for my needs. When that thing is on sale(it has been everytime I've looked at it), its still a good deal even tossing the trigger aside.

I'd price out what your need to haves are versus a lower kit and see if it isn't cheaper to get the kit and swap something out later.

In what way does the length of the gas system affect the function of an ar-15?

I understand that using a mid-length gas system allows for the use of longer hand guards, which some people consider to be more ergonomic, and as such view mid-length as superior, but does longer length gas systems actually increase the reliability of an ar-15, or anything such?

>>510487

The gas system length will determine where the gas port hole is at on your barrel, and consequently which length gas tube you will need. As for the effect, the longer your gas system, the longer the powder has to burn before the gas "escapes" into the gas block. In short, longer gas length = higher pressure, which may or may not be useful to you. Higher pressures tend to result in flatter trajectories, usually only noticeable at longer ranges.

As for the handguards, their primary function is to cover the gas tube and gas block, unless you're using an A2 style gas block. If you're using a low profile gas block and freefloat handguard, you can use whichever size handguard that you want, so long as it covers the gas block. IE, you can have a carbine length gas system (7"), with a mid(9") or beyond handguard.

TL;DR:

You have to match gas system length with handguard length if you're not freefloating.

You do not have to match if you are freefloating, but you should at a minimum fully cover the gas system.

Longer gas system can be better if you plan to shoot longer ranges (probably 300+ yards to see any difference), but will necessarily cost more and weigh more (longer handguard).

>>510487

I don't really know what I'm talking about. But AFAIK it goes like this:

Carbine Length: for ~14.5" barrels

Mid-Length: for 16" barrels

Rifle Length: for 18-20" barrels

The longer the gas system the less fouling you get.

>>509927

>unteralterbach

>8mb

the good ol days.

>>507309

Start off by building a lower first, and just purchasing a barreled upper receiver. Prices on uppers have crashed within the last year, there isn't much cost difference right now.

You're going to need a torque wrench, armorer's tool, some roll pin punches, a vice and AR style vice block, and a mallet for assembly. You'll likely need a screwdriver to install the pistol grip as well. Don't buy a shitty armorer's tool, they usually out of spec and have a not insignificant chance of damaging your parts.

Don't build your own BCG, there is no cost savings building them and if you don't have much hand tool experience you'll probably fuck up staking the gas key. Buy a Toolcraft mil-spec BCG, they're about $90 each and are used as in field replacements for .mil. NP3 BCGs clean easy, but are more expensive. If you have lots of money to burn LMT Advanced BCGs use superior materials in comparison to the mil-spec, but it costs over three times the price of the Toolcraft, and that's if you can find it in stock.

Just buy a blemished forged lower from any major manufacturer, you should be able to find one around $50, there is zero reason to buy a billet unless you fancy the design or it's one of the custom ambi ones.

Get a lower parts kit that doesn't suck shit, this is important, as the cheapest ones are invariably garbage. Daniel Defense, BCM, Sionics, Colt, SOLGW, ALG, are all solid for what I can remember off hand. They are more expensive than something like DPMS or Stag, but the part quality is worth it. ALG and SOLGW are close enough in cost to the cheapest stuff that there isn't much of a reason not to spend the extra money.

Make sure your receiver extension is mil-spec diameter if collapsible. Any one of the VLTOR A5 style ones are a nice upgrade over the standard, but it's not necessary. They let you run a rifle length spring, which reduces the recoil impulse, but are about 100 for the kit, versus 50 for the normal. If you use a standard extension, start with an H buffer, avoid carbine. With the A5 start with A5H2. You can use a rifle receiver extension if you want to run a fixed stock, and you DO NOT need to have a rifle length gas system.

Your stock / pistol grip is entirely a personal decision. Magpul and B5 is inexpensive and works well.

I'm going to recommend again, not building the upper yet, especially one where you need to set the gas block yourself. As you're going to need to dimple and/or pin the gas block depending on what style you choose. You need a drill press for this, and some machining experience, or you will ruin your barrel.

I don't ever build my own uppers, even though I have the tools to do so, it's just not cost effective. You can buy something like a SIONICS assembled upper without BCG that has 13 inch free floated rail for ~$400. A rail like that alone is nearly $200.

I would buying AR Parts from PSA, they have shitty QC and abysmal customer service. If you have a problem, you're probably fucked, as they're unbearably slow in resolving problems. Their prices are ultra low for a reason, and it's because they no real QC/QA.

>>510526

>>507309

I'm going to reiterate not to buy shitty parts as I think it's important enough to mention again. It's a gamble that often ends up with you having to go buy the quality ones after having the garbage ones cause you problems and then you're out even more time and money.

Your AR will likely last your lifetime if you have anything approaching a firing schedule like the average person. Quality barrels last anywhere between 10,000 to 20,000 rounds. It's not uncommon for them to go longer, and that's a shitload of money in ammo. It's best just to spend the extra 100 or 200 dollars and get parts that have a reputation for being from shops with an emphasis on good QC and QA practices.

>Where do you usually buy your parts?

I buy lowers either online when a site has <50 aluminum lowers and has a good rep for shipping or local if its less than 70. I buy just about everything else at PSA unless I want something really gucci and get my ambi charging handles from BCM, and my BCG is usually a toolcraft from the big sites that have it cheap, same for triggers like geissel etc.

>Which companies should I look at or avoid?

Avoid most prebuilts save for the M&P sport II. Don't buy a built rifle that is pre-owned unless that guy is your friend and knows his shit.

>What's a good price range for each part?

lower: 40-120

LPK: 35-80

complete lower: 80-150

mags: 10(magpul is all I use for polymer and brownells for metal gi-style)

CH: 15-80 depending on mil spec or fancy ambi

BCG 80+ for toolcraft, others are around that price but don't be fooled if all it has is logo on it.

Complete Upper: 150-??? Since you sound new I would start with a partial or complete upper barrel assembly. The cheapest I would put in my rifle come from Palmetto State Armory.

>How do I actually put the damn thing together?

Watch either of these videos. they use different techniques depending on which tools you have, you should at least buy a punch set. those are around $30

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p8sY5CQmlHI&

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Uag39L5Nds

>>519391

forgot to say stock is 40-250 depending on aesthetics and I guess function too

>>510514

People trying to sell off their sandy hook rifles

http://palmettostatearmory.com/psa-16-5-56-nato-1-7-mid-length-nitride-13-5-lightweight-m-lok-moe-ept-rifle-kit-516446780.html

http://palmettostatearmory.com/vortex-sparc-red-dot-scope-ten-magpul-pmag-30-magazines.html

>you can get a full non-shit AR with a decent red dot and 10 mags for less than 700 dollars now

Praise Trump!

>>507309

If you're building for your first gun, I'd say go with PSA, great deal.

>>507309

All of the parts for my first build totalled to around $470.

>Anderson Stripped Lower

>Anderson Stripped Upper

>Anderson Manufacturing Complete M16 Bolt Carrier Group with Nickel Boron Finish

>Sander Armory 16" Contour Stainless Steel 1:7 Twist

>Anderson AR-15 Lower Parts Kit 5.56

>Commercial AR-15 Adjustable Stock w/ Collapsible Buffer Tube Kit

The other missing components were bought individually from Rock River Arms. Today I probably could've gotten a better barrel for the same price.

>>510514

anderson are fuckups, but making lowers is nearly fuck-up-proof. they're using the same castings everyone else is.

so $40 for a lower is nice.

>>519442

please don't buy RRA, they made their bed

>>507858

Ballistic advantage with a pinned gas block, can't shill it enough. Best quality for the money without being over priced like noveske and shit

>>519445

What's wrong with them?

>>519495

Fucked over gun owners to try to make it so they are the only business in town. They and Springfield need gassed.

>>519499

>>519495

If I'm not mistaken this is basically what happened.

>RRA is in Illinois

>Illinois tries to pass some dumbfuck law saying that all federally registered FFLs have to register another time with the state and pay a seperate set of state taxes to stay in the game

>RRA opposes the law

>looks like it won't pass

>Illinois legislature gives RRA a carve out

>RRA stops opposing the law and actually starts supporting it a little bit

>it passes

So yeah fuck RRA. No matter how good their shit is or isn't.

>>519510

lol exactly this

Armslist is filled to the brim with these scumbag losers.

>>519509

Don't forget springfield too.

Just incase some one was looking for an M1A while browsing this thread too or was considering an XD

>>519530

bought an XD back in 2012

can't complain about the gun tbh, very good.

>>519533

Well then keep it but don't support their bullshit anymore till they pull a sturm ruger or support 2A again

Going to revive this with a few questions.

I will be planning a .300 Blackout build. I know its shortcomings and strengths already, and it's a round I'm most comfortable settling on.

Would a 5.56 upper accept a .300 Blackout barrel? For my first AR I'd like to find a retro upper with the permanent carry handle, but I will definitely go with something else if I have to - I did notice a lot of new production A1 uppers need fitting for mounts, too.

The standard AR grip is a bit thin for me - is this a problem for anyone else, and is there a more supple grip that someone would recommend?

Is it worth splurging on an assembled lower, or is it better buying all the tools required to build one yourself?

Lastly - what brands of barrels should I look into?

>>522750

Yes, its just a barrel change.

>more supple grip that someone would recommend

Magpul, go find a lgs and get a feel for what is out there.

Okay, questions from me now.

I wanna build an AR from an 80% lower, would I be better just getting PSA 80% lowers ( I saw the anderson post, is the quality roughly the same between vendors)? Whats an upper recommendation for a poorfag student? I wanna keep it below 800.

Also, I live in Texas, where I can see ~3 miles 98% of the year (I live on a hill). Scope recommendations? Bypod recommendations?

AR-10 or Ar15 style ( I'm tempted to go 7.62x51)? Woulda 22in Barrel work well for me Is it even needed lol??

The million shrekel question: DI or SS pistion?

Sorry guys for being a newfag to the AR.

>>522974

Can you afford a steady diet of .308? If no, drop the notion of having something in that.

help me AR thread, where muh deals at? need pins n springs. and a shit FSB (bayo lug not needed)

>>522974

308 ARs have minimal parts compatibility. I don't think you'll be able to up a PSA kit on an 80%.

I just buy a $60 lower every so often, then get a $90 LPK/stock combo from PSA, then an assembled upper with a midlength MOE forearm and front site gas block, and finish with a cheap carry handle/rear sight. Shoots straight enough after sighting in, and the overall cost is less than $500 if I'm patient. I was working on another, but I'm buying a Rock Island 1911 right now, so this process is on hold. Fells good man.

>>522989

I usually get stuff from Palmetto, the only problem I had with them so far was a hammer spring snapped in two. If you want a completed rifle, my boss keeps suggesting gun.deals to me and they seem to be alright, but I've never bought from them.

what is most common/ubiquitous free float barrel nut? is there a standard?

>>523019

gun.deals is a price checker, not a store.

>>523019

>>523218

yeah and it seems alright. does't seem to work as well finding parts, I had poor results for front sight blocks.

>>523206

barrel nut "should" come with your handguard, typically. Lots of different form factors for barrel nuts out there for the various handguards. If there was a standard nut, it'd probably be the A2 style one.

>>519406

this is trumps america.

>>523507

I'm wondering if there's a most common type, for sake of building a custom handguard in the future. A2 nut is a bit tricky to design around.

I'm a newfag when it comes to AR's. I bought a Adams Arms AA-15 and I like it a lot. Though it came with an M4 barrel. Any Streloks know if i can swap it for a 20" or do I need a different upper?

>>523895

Your upper is fine, you'll prolly need a new gas tube though.

>>523896

It's a piston gas system.

>>523900

Oh, right, if that's the case then I think (not entirely sure), that as long as you have a 20" with a gas port in the right position, it should be fine

>>523895

You will need a rifle length piston

http://www.adamsarms.net/rifle-length-drive-rod

The only AR you should buy is the Beretta ARX-100 OP.

Thoughts on the idea of a toggle delayed upper?

>On the original Armalite, the front handguard mount, front sight post, front sling swivel, and bayonet lug are all integral to the gas block.

>The new tacticool hotness is freefloat handguards with low profile gas blocks and absolutely nothing else hanging off the barrel.

The sling swivel and front sight can both be hung off the handrail, but what are you supposed to do about a bayonet?

Hey uh I hear 5.56 performs best out of a 20" barrel but have no idea what twist to be looking into for that. Is it worth hunting for? What twist should I be going for then? I don't think I'll mind the extra weight from the length at all, but this would be my first AR.

>>524215

1:7 twist is best 'cause you can shoot heavier ammo which is better 'cause it shoots harder

any less twist than that is for the range only, I think

>>524215

16" or 18" would be good for hunting. 1:7 or 1:8 are good, 1:9 might not stabilize the heavy bullets you will want to use for deer.

is it your first AR period or your first build? a prebuilt 16" M4gery is just fine for hunting.

>>524266

First AR. I'm not really scared of reading instructions though.

>>524215

>Hey uh I hear 5.56 performs best out of a 20" barrel

Depends on what load, heavy bullet loads like Mk262 fine out to most hunting distances out of sub-16" barrels.

>What twist should I be going for then?

1:7

>I don't think I'll mind the extra weight from the length at all

You will, I have a 10.5" barrel on my 300BLK and even I wish it was 1-2" shorter sometimes.

>>524278

Get a pre-built 16" then, make sure it has a rail on the receiver and a gas block that doesn't have a front sight.

>>524281

This is an off topic post, I just wanted to add some info:

The larger mass the bullet, the slower it can go while maintaining similar energies. Equation is m/2*v^2 so if your v is low just increase the m to compensate, a 0.003kg bullet going at 800m/s has 960J of energy, but the same is true of a 0.021kg bullet going at 300m/s. A 10mm +P+ has larger energies out of 10 inches than a .223 out of the same length barrel for example. A .50 beowulf can be shot out of very short barrels and still have rifle class energies. As a bonus the increase in mass increases momentum way faster than energy, which helps it shoot through cover. Energy is mass divided by two, times velocity squared - so velocity is exponentially important to kinetic energy. But momentum is different… it's just mass times velocity, which means mass matters a whole lot more for momentum than for energy. Momentum is the thing that keeps a bullet going straight despite factors trying to stop it.

I'm looking at building a CAR-15/XM-177 style AR. I can get stripped uppers/lowers from Brownells, but where do I find an 11.5" barrel that has a decent twist rate(without being rapey in price)? Obviously I'm not too worried about keeping the internals strictly Vietnam era, as I like the looks, but want something that will have modern performance.

>>507402

Eh, there is, they get dirty as fuck.

For what the military wanted, Stoners DI is the right choice bc its the simpler system, but it is dirty as hell.

>>523924

>>523925

Thanks guys.

>>524215

>>524217

>>524266

>>524281

Nope

1:7 is used for tracers. 1:9 is best to use with the heavier 77gr as 1:7 actually opens up groupings. The older nam era rifle with lighter ammo (55gr) used something slower like 1:12 or 1:14.

https://www.americanrifleman.org/articles/2014/5/21/testing-the-army-s-m855a1-standard-ball-cartridge/

>>524361

your article is on a 62 gr. 1:9 can do 70+ but can also get wacky depending on how hot loaded. tracers need 1:7 for their looong length. 1:8 is the all around accuracy sweetheart.

recommend me some good uppers w/0 ch and bcg

>>519499

>Fucked over gun owners

tried really hard to fuck over mom&pop gun shops, not gun owners. get your shit straight.

>>507309

Here are some vendors you might find helpful

Primary Arms

Rainier Arms

Brownells

Midway

Joe Bob Outfitters

Right to Bear

Tom Tactical

For a first rifle, Aero is a decent outfit to check out

>>527152

BCM

and I’ve been hearing a lot of good things about sons of Liberty gun works

>>507921

>>507920

Remember to grab a KAK can for pistol-length builds, they really help push the concussion forward.

I'm building an AR-47, one of those unholy abominations chambered in 7.62x39. What should I look out for, and are there any parts manufacturers I should avoid?

Asking for a, uh, friend.

>>530186

I vaguely remember the biggest problem these have are magazines. Some lowers that take AK mags exist though.

They also are more like ARs than AKs in how they handle steel case ammo (poorly, extractor dies substantially quicker), and the harder primers typical of cheap AK food don't fire in ARs consistently.

>>530186

Get bolts with strong extractors.

>>530188

>>530187

Good to know. I think it'll be worth it to have a decent AR without the retard ballistics of 5.56 or expense of .308.

So I ordered an upper receiver and a lower parts kit from PSA. Thinking about getting an 80% lower.

>What should I look for in an 80% lower? Any good ones?

>Besides a punch set and AR wrench, what other tools would I need? Any particular punch set or AR wrench I should look into?

>How exactly do I complete the lower and put everything together? I could watch a video, but I want some tips or advice from you guys too.

>>531826

80% jig, drill press+X/y vise (Assuming you don't have better hardware)+right material drill bits.You may want anti-walk pins to compensate for trigger holes lacking precision.

>>531827

Huh, now that I think about it, it'll be a bit costly to buy all that just to use once. Plus i'm worried i'd fuck up somewhere.

Maybe it'd just be easier to just buy a completed lower. What's better?

>>530186

I have one of those built! As you've been told, get a spare extractor; buy one from a company that's been making (refining) 7.62x39 bolt-heads for a while now.

Get either a wolff extra-power hammer spring, or an enhanced firing pin (bites deeper into the primer) or in my case, both.

Get magazines that say they're for that round in the AR platform. Or as somebody else suggested, get the CMMG mutant, that takes AK mags. That's way more expensive, though.

Make sure the barrel has a bigger port .. .093" is common, I think. The round is way under-gassed compared to the 5.56, and that's the easiest solution.

Good luck! they're a lot of fun to shoot, and ammo can be had for 21 cents a round shipped, if you've got the dough for a 1,000 case.

>>531832

>once

See, there's your problem strelok. Right-To-Bear has lower blanks for the low $30's, tactical machining, tactical-shit, a few others for no more than mid-fifties dollarydoos. Granted that's a $50 LPK each time too, but then you can get no-fcg lpks and aftermarket triggers for a few dollars less and not have spares of parts that never break. The drill bits will start getting dull after about three lowers, but the jig is good for a lot longer than that.

I built my first two without even a spring-pin punch. Just used a pair of pliers, and it worked fine. Oh, you'll want a set of punches, but they're not as vital as all that. The rest is all by hand.

What stripped lower should I get? I heard Anderson is pretty good and might get that, but want to know what else we have.

Is there anything about multi-caliber lowers I should know?

Well, finally built my AR. Fuck the trigger guard pin, though. That little fucker was the absolute worst.

Thinking about changing out the handguards later. What should I go with and what should I stick on?

>>532758

Unless it's on the registry, an old Anderson (uses the wrong screw for the grip. Modern ones don't), 80% (You'll want anti-walk pins for the trigger on those), one of those gimmick lowers (skull on the magwell ect.), or high shelf (avoid that crap) all aluminum lower are effectively the same except the name. There's two aluminum alloys used for lowers that both have their advantages (one resists the elements better, one resist physical damage better) but they're so minor. Hell, most lowers companies don't make their lowers and just buy somebody else's before putting their name on it.

Other than aluminum lowers, the only one you should bother with is the CAV Arms lower which is a lot lighter than typical rifles. After typical transfer fee it's 100 bucks more than a basic aluminum lower from your lower store, but doesn't need a stock (30), grip (15), or buffer tube (10) so it's only 45 bucks more for a lot of weight savings.

What's a good site to buy ARs from? Palmetto Armory seems like a nice site, but they don't have any full guns or uppers in a 18 inch chrome lined barrel. I don't really want to build the whole thing, since I don't care about the little things and it's just more stuff that I have to order. What are your guys recommendations.

>>538181

Why do you need chrome over nitride?

>>538189

Nitride is fine as well. Just needs a protective coating inside of the barrel.

Just ordered a faxon 16" mid length pencil barrel, CMMG gas block and spikes gas tube.

Will i have any problems with my H2 buffer and carbine buffer spring?

>>538247

Just get stainless and cerakote the outside. Why do you need a coating on the inside? If we're talking about using steel case you'll be just fine as long as you feed it a steady diet of the stuff to actually get the savings for a new cheapo blaster barrel. As for the websites try atlantic firearms and buds gun shop. They'll have larger selections.

probably better to pair together a complete lower with a complete upper especially since you want an 18 inch and most prebuilts I find in 18 are usually some stainless thing that's built more for competition use than anything else

>>538278

No. The mid length system takes care of most of all problems with over gassed carbines. of course you are sticking it in a carbine tube and not a rifle one

>>535368

What kind? Two piece plastic or free float? If free float get whatever says Mlok on it seems to grip onto accessories better than keymod and modular rails aren't has fuckheug or heavy as quad rails. As for brand. Can't go wrong with midwest, daniel defense or yankee hill for easier installs, if you're not buddah stay away from the fortis night rail and other handguards that require accurate timing but have a retarded jam nut style of attachment that moves the barrel nut as you tighten on the jam nut ring thing I have a strike industries megafins I love it but fuck me is it nerve wracking.

Next time you install and trigger guard pin. Drive it in just barely with the pin punch or just smack directly with a non steel hammer then line up the guard correctly while tapping it in a little more just edging into the guard. Using either channel lock pliers or bench vice squeeze it in the rest of the way.

I just want to look at nice ARs on a forum with culture that I can tolerate

don't you faggots ever wonder whether throwing together random ass cheap tacticool zombie killer parts from Walmart and Amazon maybe isn't the best approach to building a rifle?

Don't your rifles jamming all the time give you any hints?

it's absolutely fucking reddit tier, people with unoptimized, mismatched, heavy ass rifles with plexiglass scopes and Chinese plastic airsoft parts and other dead giveaways that they don't even shoot.

god knows I have to go to devtsix to scroll through some actual war rifles that don't make my eyes bleed

>my AR's barrel isn't kac, lmt, dd, or even melonite

yeah your rifle is a joke

>>538181

> I don't really want to build the whole thing, since I don't care about the little things and it's just more stuff that I have to order.

Build it. You don't need to order anything beyond a PSA kit, a punch set and an AR wrench, plus pick up a lower from your FFL.

PSA rotates what they have, but the real problem is you are looking for an 18 inch 5.56. That's not a popular barrel length and you should seriously consider if you really want it. Most people want 16 (the legal minimum) or 20 (the classic 5.56 was originally designed for) and you'll rarely find that without paying a premium.

PSA actually does have full guns (they're just out of stock right now), but the only ones they put on sale regularly is a basic non-freefloated rifle.

>>544982

you seem butthurt, anon

>>538181

>>544988

PSA is a very risky investment typically excused by the use of cheap reject FN barrels.

The price is a warning sign - gas keys are typically not staked correctly, barrels are over-torqued, and I've even seen canted FSBs. That's just on the upper assemblies.

At that point it's better to buy all the parts separately and assemble it on your own, because even on your worst day it will not be worse than what PSA's quality control allows.

>>544999

>hates PSA

>has seen enough rifles to have see issues multiple times

Was this actually seen or saw pictures on the internet? PSA's price is obtained by being the manufacturer without a middleman (and apparently being build to order, which I've seen mentioned by never confirmed though it explains why they're so slow).

>>545015

>Was this actually seen or saw pictures on the internet?

Both. I also staked a gas key for an acquaintance because it was coming loose.

>PSA's price is obtained by being the manufacturer without a middleman (and apparently being build to order, which I've seen mentioned by never confirmed though it explains why they're so slow).

They manufacture and assemble, and they also order barrels from FN to the bare minimum spec if only to slap "FN" on their premium line.

The guys who work the assembly line do not require prior experience and it's often their first time even touching firearms - that's information received from someone who actually worked there in recent years.

The only company worse than PSA is Anderson and that's only because PSA sells more 80% lowers than complete guns.

>>545019

Elaborate on "both". Was it just the one key you saw in person?

For goods made for mass manufacture (which virtually all modern firearms made on assembly lines are) assembly line positions not being that high skill is pretty normal. Note you literally are telling a785d6 to assemble it himself with no prior experience so obviously you don't consider experience that important for AR assembly.

>>538181

Oh, another option you might want to look at is the complete upper assembly Brownells has on sale on occasion (watch gun.deals or mrgunsngear's facebook page for it). For $230 (after coupon codes they always have) for the upper, a lower parts kit ($99.99 for PSA's with Magpul furniture) and a pair of sights from PSA for $50 you have every part (minus a lower) you need to build an AR for ~379.99. Disadvantage is that this is a keymod (bleh) rail and it's not always there.

It's technically on sale now, but they only have a stupidly short hand guard available right now.

>>545027

>Note you literally are telling a785d6 to assemble it himself with no prior experience so obviously you don't consider experience that important for AR assembly.

Context, Anon. For what you get from PSA, I suggested that you may as well do it yourself because it cannot get any worse than people being paid to do sloppy assembly that's shipped despite crucial flaws.

You can't cite your own pedantry in trying to form this counterpoint because I specifically used PSA as a company and its substandard quality control as a standard in comparison to building it yourself.

Do you work there? Am I stealing your paycheck from you in my attempt to inform a potential customer of the terrible results that have come from Palmetto State Armory?

>>545033

Huh, is it really that bad? I ordered a complete upper and a lower parts kit from them and used an Aero lower. I only really went with them for a budget AR without ordering from a complete no-name company or anyone connected with freedom group.

Is the lower part fine? Should I keep the upper or sell it and get something else?

>>545067

It's hard to fuck up a lower receiver but Anderson and PSA find a way on occasion by drilling the hole for the buffer retainer spring out of place, leading to the buffer getting chewed up over time. Other holes may be misaligned, but if it's a complete lower that's ruled out.

The lower parts kit I wouldn't care about, you can replace that later though if you want a better trigger.

The barreled upper - if it's in your hands, I'd give replacing it some serious consideration. In the worst case scenario the barrel nut's over-torqued which can cause undue stress on the receiver over time.

If it's just a beater rifle you'll only shoot once in a while and you can't afford to get something better you probably won't notice any negatives.

Any tips on putting together a 5.45 build? Every retail barrel I find seems to be the useless M4 profile, so I'm thinking of doing a custom jobber from McGowan barrels, which doesn't seem much more expensive than a regular barrel. Also, I've heard rumors of people converting windowed PMAGS and EMAGS to be able to hold 5.45 rounds, is there any truth to this?

>>545077

Supposedly pmags hold like 23 or so rounds of 5.45 and feed with no issues.

>>545077

I just got a Barrel Advantage 5.45 in hbar – no, the trick isn't the profile, it's the bolt.

But in my case, at least, Adams Arms actually has their bolt in stock, despite leaving their catalog showing 'backordered' for the past year or more.

With a bit of google-fu, you can find measurements to open up a stripped 556 bolt to match BA's 5.45 chamber using a drill press. Don't screw up.

It turns out, there's two "understandings" of how to arrange them, and Model-1 uses the other common assumption, so if you buy their bolt … it won't hold your rounds firmly to the barrel's chamber. Oops.

>>545096

>hbar

No thanks, I'd rather not lug that shit around if I can't help it. Modern metallurgy techniques means regular profile, and even pencil barrels to a lesser extent, remain plenty accurate even when hot. The Barrel Advantage barrels look nice, but I'd prefer an 18" over 16".

>>507858

>Barrel recommendations?

Best quality for your money:

FN chrome lined CHF polygonal barrels

Ballistic Advantage barrels

Faxon barrels

They also happen to frequently go on sale.

BHW barrels (old name) aka Columbia River Arms (new name) aka True Sporting Arms (their overstock barrels store)

They do custom polygonal barrels, you can select the length/profile/caliber you want on their website and they have steep discount during sales, but are expensive at full price. They also do cerakoting and shoot peening on the barrels if you want.

Larue barrel are also very good, but pricey when not on sale

>>545077

Bumping again, mostly the same question: Should I expect Ballistic Advantage 5.45 barrels to come back in stock sometime this century? If not, I found a company called McGowan barrels that will custom-make a 5.45 barrel for you. Does anyone have experience with them?

>>548557

Not directly, but a forum I follow, all about wildcats, has several members that swear by them. Onesy-twosy is pretty spendy, $600 is pretty much the starting point, but they know barrels.

>>548571

Literally made in China. Other than that I've got no idea. Is it freefloated?

Is there a list of approved uppers or at least companies that produce good uppers? Any ones that aren't expensive as fuck?

>>548580

Good to hear. Looks like it will be more expensive than a BA barrel, but I have no idea when those are back in stock.

>>549421

>A1 stock

Good lad

>>549421

Honestly it looks good as is, although if it was up to me I'd get a standard gasblock and the carry handle sight with the proper scope mount.

>>549439

What do you mean by proper scope mount? I thought a carry handle scope mount big enough for a scope like this would result in a chin weld rather than a cheek weld.

>>549421

>black guns wood

He kept blowing me off. I ended up buying a wood stock-set from a company that specializes in AK furniture, because they were willing to talk, and work with me.

It does look good. I hope my eventual build is that snazzy when the furniture arrives in about a month.

>>549421

Looks bretty gud to me. If you were really smart and there isn't a FA on the other side of the receiver I'd have zero complaints. Will you be going for the A2 flash hider or the prongs?

>>549445

I mean the mount that that is 'nam era than the modern railed mount that you can find floating around.

>>549421

I'd personally add a side charging upper, but otherwise fine.

Patrolling the Mojave almost makes you wish for a nuclear winter

>>548595

Taiwan is China. It's the government in exile after the mainland was conquered by the commies.

>>519538

Well Sturm Ruger were little faggots because Ruger was a little faggot himself. After he died, the company went back to being pretty alright.

>>549505

It's also in a buttload of hurt after it reunifies because they gonna claim mongolia parts of bascly every country bordering mainland china proper.

Taiwan not having a UN seat makes them illegitimate in most countries eyes though.

>>549642

Aesthetics. He's already put heavier than normal furniture on it and isn't freefloating, so he's going for aesthetics anyways.

>>549782

>Also, any trigger suggestions? I don't particularly need or want something like a $300 Elftmann, but certainly better than milspec.

Trident's trigger (https://www.geauxarmory.com/tactical-trident-trigger-curved-p-331.html) is my recommendation. I've heard good things about ALG's ACT, but I haven't tried it myself.

>>549782

Trigger selection depends on how you want to use the firearm.

For defense applications stay with the heavier trigger pull. It is safer around those you don't want to shoot. The heavier pull will give you a few extra milliseconds to make a decision.

A light pull doesn't forgive. That said…..

The ALG-ACT and BCM-PNT are both good single stage triggers. The ALG is made by Geissele.

I would recommend staying with the military strength spring. Messing around with light springs is just looking for trouble.

I use both the Geissele Super Tricon and SSA-E 2-Stage triggers and am very pleased with their performance.

Sign up for the Brownells mailing list. Around the holidays they have them on sale for 30% off. They also have a Geissele trigger made specifically for them that you can purchase for around $129.00.

Like everything else AR, everyone has their personal preferences.

But you really can't go wrong with either ALG or BCM for a good lower cost trigger group.

>>549782

>triggers

ALG-ACT, Sionics, Hiperfire are good two-piece triggers.

POF 4.5lb is my favorite drop-in trigger. Well priced and comes with anti-walk pins included, so saves money there to.

>>507309

I want an AR-18. How fucked am I?

>>552037

1200 dollars fucked, also enjoy the 1:12 twist rate a lot of em have.

Am I insane or was there a better AR builder than the bloated 3d one on AR15.com? I remember threads about it a few years ago; faster to use, more parts, more stats on the parts, lots of prebuilts to start with, etc.

>>552067

You want quality, you're gonna have to pay for it. I mean people gotta eat. Besides that AR-18's are polymer and steel, no wood what so ever.

>>552072

Of course, alternate parts are very sparse, but I'm getting the vibe from you that all the money in the world won't make this dream a reality.

>>552081

Its the start-up cost and the marketing. I mean if the rifle doesn't sell well and you've spent X on all the tooling, space for said tooling, people and that which you feed into the tooling you aren't going to make money and stay in business. Then there is another bit, say Y rifle becomes immensely popular due to demand and you unfortunately can't keep up with said demand to the point it becomes a meme much like that StG in .223.

>>552087

I know it wasn't soundly received, and the reproductions weren't exactly notable, either. Hell, I've hardly heard of them, until recently. All I'm wondering is what I can do to procure some parts, other than smelting it myself.

/k/ build me a starter AR, where it's basic and I want something in the 500-700$ range including taxes.

I bought a handgun but I never fired it, I don't even have ammo for it, I don't know where to buy but I am afraid to go to the shooting range only 2 times, cause I have tintius now and I used ear protection and the gun shots weren't loud. But here I am with it. I might have adjusted the ear protection one time but I never left the range with tinitus ringing. It might have developed a few days later.

>>552111

>i have tinitus from shooting with ear protection

no you don't you hypochondriac. i got drug around ranges, hunting, and dirt racetracks through my childhood, no ear ringing. i probably have a little hearing loss but you don't get tinnitus from a few nearby gunshots, esp with hearing protection on, that's impossible. after i'd get home from the dirt track it was EEEEEEE all night, it goes away. unless you cup your ear to a grenade it's cumulative damage.

>>552111

https://www.brownells.com/rifle-parts/receiver-parts/receivers/upper-receivers/ar-15-complete-upper-receiver-black-keymod-5-56-prod86806.aspx (use code LDN for free ship and 20 off)

http://palmettostatearmory.com/magpul-gen-2-mbus-front-rear-back-up-sight-set.html (use code on the page)

Then grab a hundred dollar lower parts kit from PSA when they're on sale (likely will be tomorrow), a stripped lower from your local gun store (Call for price. Generally 60-70 USD plus background check. Anything higher and you should just get a lower online and have it transferred to your local store.) and then get a punch set and buffer tube wrench. $440 plus some basic tools that won't cost you more than $40 dollars combined.

>>552178

It was the only way I could think how I loss it. I was not sure but I didn't hear EEEEEE after it the range. But I hear it all day now, it's pretty soft but I hear it clearly in a quiet room and sleeping which really sucks. I think it occured after a month/2 weeks after the range. But I was not sure if you guys might clear it up.

>>552225

Actually costs more than combining those three deals and it isn't freefloated.

>>552218

>Hypochondriac

Yeah that's not the gunfire. You're probably hearing a CIAnigger listening device or shitty non-tungsten lightbulb going bad. Is there a transformer by your bed?

>>552277

Yes, by a little but he only has to connect the upper to the lower and it's done. Cheap and simple for a starter. No tools necessary.

Actually for the price range you can buy complete firearm. DPMS, Bushmaster, M&P low end guns are going for around $500.00 lately.

Probably cheaper if you wait for a sale.

My first was complete. After I went through replacing everything I wanted to upgrade I realized it was better to just build my own. Cost less and not a bunch of parts I don't like laying around. Learn from experience I suppose.

>>549623

I only like them for their revolvers. The Ruger American hanguns are a step in the right direction but the SR series left a bad taste in my mouth that still hasn't gone away.